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Old 06-02-2021, 11:58 AM   #1
OldCarNewTricks
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Default Engine Part Identification (240 I-SPY)

Good morning TB,

I pulled the engine/trans from my 242 a couple days ago. I noticed a couple sensors(?) that I am unfamiliar with on the engine, and I was hoping for help with identifying them, and what they should be hooked up to.

The first photo has 3 pieces I am unsure of. It seems something chewed up the wires, and so nothing is connected as it should be?

The second photo is of my oil pressure sender, I think? I recently purchased a VDO oil pressure gauge from a member on here, and it operates on 10-184 OHM signal. Does anyone know what the OE supplied sensor puts out? I also purchased a VDO sender separately that should be correct for the gauge, but I'll keep it for backup if the OE works for it.
(Gauge P/N: 350-934 or 350-030-021C; VDO Sender P/N: 360-003)

I am also curious as to what can cause all this nasty oil/sludge buildup on this side of the engine? What seal would that be?

Thank you

https://imgbox.com/Ow7gDubB

https://imgbox.com/ZdRYYLvt
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Old 06-02-2021, 12:27 PM   #2
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#1. Block heater for cold weather
#2. Block coolant drain
#3. Sensor for Volvo special tool
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Last edited by planetman; 06-02-2021 at 12:32 PM..
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:04 PM   #3
OldCarNewTricks
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Originally Posted by planetman View Post
#1. Block heater for cold weather
#2. Block coolant drain
#3. Sensor for Volvo special tool
Okay, thank you. Block heater isn't required here, so I'll leave that alone. What is the purpose of the sensor? Fix or clip?
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:21 PM   #4
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The sensor is used with the Volvo Mono-Tester to set ignition timing. Unless you have one the sensor is useless. Even if you have the tool, if the flywheel or flex plate has been removed and not reinstalled in the proper orientation the Mono-Tester wouldn't read correctly.

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Old 06-02-2021, 01:32 PM   #5
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The second photo is of the oil pressure switch. To use the oil pressure gauge you need a sender with a variable output. The switch is just on or off.

Oil/sludge on the side of the engine is either a leaking valve cover gasket or oil from the front engine seals. Less likely but still possible is the head gasket.
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
The second photo is of my oil pressure sender, I think? I recently purchased a VDO oil pressure gauge from a member on here, and it operates on 10-184 OHM signal. Does anyone know what the OE supplied sensor puts out? I also purchased a VDO sender separately that should be correct for the gauge, but I'll keep it for backup if the OE works for it.
(Gauge P/N: 350-934 or 350-030-021C; VDO Sender P/N: 360-003)
https://imgbox.com/ZdRYYLvt
The standard oil pressure sender is "on/off" only - it detects if there is enough oil pressure but doesn't tell you exactly how much.

You will need to replace with the big cylindrical VDO sender, and you'll want the one with two terminals - one with on/off function, for the dash warning light, and one with the analog output for the gauge.

hiperfauto probably knows better what the correct one is. For my 5 bar gauge I ordered VDO 360-009 some time ago.
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Old 06-02-2021, 07:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khrrck View Post
The standard oil pressure sender is "on/off" only - it detects if there is enough oil pressure but doesn't tell you exactly how much.

You will need to replace with the big cylindrical VDO sender, and you'll want the one with two terminals - one with on/off function, for the dash warning light, and one with the analog output for the gauge.

hiperfauto probably knows better what the correct one is. For my 5 bar gauge I ordered VDO 360-009 some time ago.
Okay, great information, thank you all. I didn't actually have anything connected to my switch. Perhaps it was removed, or maybe it never had a wire running back to the cluster? Mine is a 1983.

I got my sender for only $10 new, so a great deal. Is the light recommended even if a person has a gauge? (I'm asking for opinions). Might be a bit cheaper for me to get a tee and use both in conjunction with each other, if that even works.

I snipped the sensor wire, and I was able to replace the failing intermediate and front crank seals. I also noted that the valve cover gasket was in very bad shape, so that was replaced as well today. Hopefully that takes care of the leaks in the front.
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Old 06-03-2021, 02:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
Is the light recommended even if a person has a gauge? (I'm asking for opinions).
While cruising along Route 66, you spring a new small, unnoticed oil leak.
You decide to race that old VW bus to the top of the mountain.
You're concentrating on the road, whooping and hollering at the bus.
Half way up your engine starts making a horrible knocking sound.
You don't hear the noise because of all the yelling and excitement.
You reach the top of the hill, and finally look at the gauges. Zero pressure.
You pull off to the side just as the engine seizes up solid.
You wonder why the warning light didn't come on.
Oh... that's right... I don't need it, because I have gauges. Oops.

Even old Chevs have a "Check Gauges" warning light hooked up to everything.
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:24 PM   #9
dl242gt
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You can buy a sender with both the warning light and pressure connections on it. The senders are rated for the pressure range of your gauge. So for example the volvo 5 bar pressure gauge uses the 80psi sender. The sender for the 3 bar pressure gauge is no longer available as far as I know. You'd have to get one used off an early B21FT. You'll need the 45 degree elbow adapter to clear the alternator.
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:46 PM   #10
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Okay. If one is able to use an elbow I should be OK to use a t fitting and use the switch on one end, and the range sensor on the other. With the tee perpendicular to the crankshaft, I should be able to fit both in there nice and snug.

Edit: except I need to figure out how to get it on. The base of the oil filter location might be in the way. I might mess around with some fittings and see if I can something to work.

Last edited by OldCarNewTricks; 06-03-2021 at 01:29 PM..
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:46 PM   #11
OldCarNewTricks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterBlaster View Post
While cruising along Route 66, you spring a new small, unnoticed oil leak.
You decide to race that old VW bus to the top of the mountain.
You're concentrating on the road, whooping and hollering at the bus.
Half way up your engine starts making a horrible knocking sound.
You don't hear the noise because of all the yelling and excitement.
You reach the top of the hill, and finally look at the gauges. Zero pressure.
You pull off to the side just as the engine seizes up solid.
You wonder why the warning light didn't come on.
Oh... that's right... I don't need it, because I have gauges. Oops.

Even old Chevs have a "Check Gauges" warning light hooked up to everything.
That makes sense. A light is definitely more in your face than an auxiliary gauge. Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2021, 04:59 PM   #12
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In the time you'll spend fiddling with a T and fittings you could do some over time on your job and get the correct duel sensor and elbow. I second the value of the warning light and gauge combo.
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Old 06-05-2021, 05:11 PM   #13
OldCarNewTricks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johfraser View Post
In the time you'll spend fiddling with a T and fittings you could do some over time on your job and get the correct duel sensor and elbow. I second the value of the warning light and gauge combo.
I picked up the tee and elbow yesterday at Napa. If it doesn't work out, they were inexpensive, so no worries.
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