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Old 05-02-2021, 07:50 PM   #1
Vol242vo
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Default '93 244 - Fuel Cut out and Loss or Power

Welp this recent 244 I purchase has decided to finally leave my high and dry today...

Driving on the freeway, I noticed the SRS and ABS lights came on, after taking my exit at a lower speed the car started to drive poorly, fuel cut out and rough idle. I decided to pull over to look at a few things and it died and wouldn't want to start, battery was low at this point. I got it home after popping the clutch however, when running, it has horrible fuel cut out. When I got it home the battery voltage was 9.4V.

Two things things I noticed, the car guzzled gas on a very short drive and it blew fuse #4 Fuel Pump (Primary), Heating Element, and Lambda-Sond.

I'll test the primary pump today and check grounds but wanted to see if others have experience in this area with LH2.4.

Thank you in advance.
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Old 05-02-2021, 08:58 PM   #2
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sounds like your bat bulb is burned out and exciter circuit is out
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:03 AM   #3
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Oddly enough the indicator lights are all good, I check/replaced those. Wiring to the ALT. looks to be secure.

I did however realize I FAILED to reconnect the o2 sensor after rebuilding the exhaust which would account for the fuel consumption and poor idle...Now would this drain the battery???
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Old 05-03-2021, 01:25 PM   #4
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your bat light light during starting, recheck that
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Old 05-03-2021, 03:42 PM   #5
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your bat light light during starting, recheck that
We're on to something here...I just jumped the 244 with my truck, that battery reads 11.97V which I know is low. I also took a reading from the + terminal on the bosch alt. it read 0.00 so clearly not operating. Thinking I should replace the voltage regulator?
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:46 PM   #6
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We're on to something here...I just jumped the 244 with my truck, that battery reads 11.97V which I know is low. Thinking I should replace the voltage regulator?
no

turn key to on, make sure bat light is on. go from there. google "exciter turbobricks"
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:51 PM   #7
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I also took a reading from the + terminal on the bosch alt. it read 0.00 so clearly not operating.
no offense, but do you know how to use a multimeter? where did you place ground lead? what was bat voltage when you did that?
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:13 PM   #8
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no offense, but do you know how to use a multimeter? where did you place ground lead? what was bat voltage when you did that?
None taken.

Multimeter, I familiar with. As mentioned, I have a reading of around 12v (DC) on the battery terminals before turning over. On the Alt I have the positive on the lead that returns to the the battery and ground in a chassis ground bolt. After running there was no change to the voltage.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:13 PM   #9
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We're on to something here...I just jumped the 244 with my truck, that battery reads 11.97V which I know is low. I also took a reading from the + terminal on the bosch alt. it read 0.00 so clearly not operating. Thinking I should replace the voltage regulator?
It can't be zero volts unless the connection to the battery is missing. It will read battery voltage.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:40 PM   #10
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It can't be zero volts unless the connection to the battery is missing. It will read battery voltage.
Hmmmm, I tried a few areas to ensure a decent ground. Let me go out an try off it's own ground wire, the alt. that is...
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:54 PM   #11
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Ok, I was clearly not grounding it properly.

The alternator bounced from 11.37 to 11.56 while running.

Battery reads 11.30 while running
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:06 PM   #12
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Now you need to test the exciter circuit. If that is good, then the alternator is bad. It could be that the brushes are worn out and you can replace the brushes by getting a new regulator. Sometimes that is the only problem. But inspect the diodes and make sure none of them look burned or corroded.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:44 PM   #13
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Now you need to test the exciter circuit. If that is good, then the alternator is bad. It could be that the brushes are worn out and you can replace the brushes by getting a new regulator. Sometimes that is the only problem. But inspect the diodes and make sure none of them look burned or corroded.
Is this where I should disconnect the D+ terminal from the alternator and run a test light
from the 12V on my battery to the small D+ terminal on the alternator?
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:54 PM   #14
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You disconnect the D+ terminal with the small red wire on it. Then put the test light probe in the connector and ground the test light to the alternator case. Turn on ignition and the light should come on. If it doesn't come on. Try a different ground. If it works then. You have a bad ground wire on the alternator. If it still doesn't come on then the wiring has issues or bulb is bad.

When you go to remove the alternator don't forget to disconnect the battery. B+ large red wire is unfused direct to the battery.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:58 PM   #15
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You disconnect the D+ terminal with the small red wire on it. Then put the test light probe in the connector and ground the test light to the alternator case. Turn on ignition and the light should come on. If it doesn't come on. Try a different ground. If it works then. You have a bad ground wire on the alternator. If it still doesn't come on then the wiring has issues or bulb is bad.

When you go to remove the alternator don't forget to disconnect the battery. B+ large red wire is unfused direct to the battery.
Got it, thanks for the help Dale and Apachechef.
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:01 PM   #16
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Went to Harbor freight and bought a test light, was able to confirm the alternator is bad. When the probe was in the small red terminal and then grounded to the alternator casing with the ignition on, the light comes on. Ignition off the light turns off.

Thanks for the help again.
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
You disconnect the D+ terminal with the small red wire on it. Then put the test light probe in the connector and ground the test light to the alternator case. Turn on ignition and the light should come on. If it doesn't come on. Try a different ground. If it works then. You have a bad ground wire on the alternator. If it still doesn't come on then the wiring has issues or bulb is bad.

When you go to remove the alternator don't forget to disconnect the battery. B+ large red wire is unfused direct to the battery.

Good advice. Test lamp > meter for checking power circuits.
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:06 PM   #18
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***Update***

Bought a new alternator and replaced it. Drove the car around and did great for awhile, on the way back it started to act up again power loss and this time the battery light came on and stays on even with the car shut off and not running. My best guess is a damn wiring issue?

Probably wasn’t the damn alternator in the first place. Ugh.

Last edited by Vol242vo; 05-07-2021 at 09:26 PM..
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:36 PM   #19
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Question.

If my battery light comes on and stays with the ignition in the off position until I disconnect the exciter wire is this a sign of faulty wiring? Any ideas?
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:43 PM   #20
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Bad ground for the generator? The crimps gets corroded and you can't see it.

Do a voltage drop test on the ground circuit. And the positive.

The excite wire also fails in the harness as it goes under the engine. Years of oil, heat, and vibration. The oil pressure dummy light wire fails here too. I re-string those circuits if there is an issue.
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Old 05-10-2021, 12:18 AM   #21
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That can be bad diodes in the alternator or if you make the mistake of connecting the little red wire to D- instead of D+ weird things can happen.
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Old 05-10-2021, 12:59 AM   #22
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I bet your exciter wire is shorting to ground at the base of the engine. Run a new section.
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Old 05-10-2021, 02:03 AM   #23
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Ok thanks guys.
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Old 05-10-2021, 12:26 PM   #24
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Actually, if the light goes off when you unplug it from the al that means the alt is grounding it, not a short in the wiring.
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