Cheap Performance Increase

[1968 volvo]

Hello Turbo Bricks. I have a 1968 Volvo 142s with a b20 in it and su hs6 carburetors. It currently has a bw35 in it but I hopefully very soon will have swapped a m40 into it.

Anyway.. I have been rebuilding the car and I have been setting everything back to the specs in the Haynes manual. I was wondering if there any good cheap modifications or tuning that I can do to pump out a little bit more power from the 4 cylinder. I'm not trying to go crazy and I really don't want it to be too hard on the engine but I think it would be fun to play around with.

[Redwood Chair]

No NA performance is't cheap.

[2turbotoys]

Nitrous oxide. Jk

Don't they make cams for those things? Idk much about making the old ones faster with the original engine.

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

Nitrous oxide. Jk

Don't they make cams for those things? Idk much about making the old ones faster with the original engine.

Why yes they do.

Street Performance Camshaft - B18 B20 $275.95

https://www.ipdusa.com/Media/34597/Large/34597.jpg

[1968 volvo]

You are thinking too big... I was thinking like a good set of spark plugs or a timing advance or something like that. Or would that not do anything?

[1968 volvo]

What would that camshaft do? That would be fun to tinker with as well.

[2turbotoys]

something like this probably



Yes I have that book lol

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by 1968 volvo

You are thinking too big... I was thinking like a good set of spark plugs or a timing advance or something like that. Or would that not do anything?

You'll be lucky to get it to run right on Cali gas unless it's got an EFI head on it.

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by 1968 volvo

What would that camshaft do? That would be fun to tinker with as well.

Personally I'd put a B18 rally / EFI 'D' cam in it if it is indeed a high compression carb head with a stock 'C' cam in it.

[Ursan]

Drive downhill exclusively.

[Redwood Chair]

Lol

[fatcatbestcat]

Stock B20s with dual carbs were rated at something like 100-115 SAE gross hp... the high-compression EFI motors were supposedly rated around 135 hp.

You're probably not going to gain much until you start doing headwork or a cam swap in the old OHV engines.

The other option is just to lighten the car.

EDIT: If you go the cam route, get a K or a D. Pretty much anything bigger (or hawg-aftermarket-y) is going to require headwork to take advantage of the extra lift. I went down this rabbit hole once.

[c1800]

Originally Posted by 1968 volvo

You are thinking too big... I was thinking like a good set of spark plugs or a timing advance or something like that. Or would that not do anything?

Nothing to be gained. If that was the case we’d all have new spark plugs. It is what it is.

[1968 volvo]

So if I was to go with a camshaft, what camshaft would you choose? What would I gain from that? Would I loose anything to a camshaft? Is there anything else I would need to do besides installing the new camshaft and some tuning?

I don't fell like I need to make more power... I just think it would be fun to play around with. This whole car is getting restored but I'm also enjoying experimenting with the car. I've never done any of this b4.

[1968 volvo]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

You'll be lucky to get it to run right on Cali gas unless it's got an EFI head on it.

I pay friggin 5$ a gallon for it... IT BETTER RUN RIGHT ON IT.


Whats different about cali gas. I wouldn't be surprised if it was different, I just haven't heard of it

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by 1968 volvo

I pay friggin 5$ a gallon for it... IT BETTER RUN RIGHT ON IT.

Originally Posted by 1968 volvo

Whats different about cali gas. I wouldn't be surprised if it was different, I just haven't heard of it

It's the water of gasoline especially the winter 'blend' we're getting now..

[1968 volvo]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

It's the water of gasoline especially the winter 'blend' we're getting now..

Do you add anything to your gas?

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by 1968 volvo

Do you add anything to your gas?

No my 245 Turbo DD car has 7.5:1 compression and will run on swill gas.



My 71 145 on the other hand has to be set up exactly right by the book to run on 91.

[Redwood Chair]

I do use ZDDP in the motor oil.

[Otto Mattik]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

It's the water of gasoline especially the winter 'blend' we're getting now..

[Dan]

What exhaust do you have? If you have the mechanical fan, switch to an electric. What base timing on your ignition? Sometimes you can add a degree or two and make it feel better, as long as it doesn't ping. If you don't know how to listen for ping, maybe not a good idea. What kind of ignition? OEM? or aftermarket? sometimes playing with the gap on aftermarket high energy ignitions can change the feel. As far as a cam, depends on your driving style. If this is a "around town" car, switching to a hipo cam will make it feel slower. Usually you shift the power higher up in the rev band and only feel it when you are driving hard. Unless you are shifting at 5k rpm all the time, be careful of switching cams. In my 740 (with V8) the current motor has a bigger cam, but since I shift under 3k rpm, the car feels slower than it did with the old "peanut" cam. If I run it hard I can feel the increase in power, but rarely do.


My first Volvo was a 68 142S, Bought it in 1981, fun car and miss it a little. Enjoy your ride

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Dan

What exhaust do you have? If you have the mechanical fan, switch to an electric. What base timing on your ignition? Sometimes you can add a degree or two and make it feel better, as long as it doesn't ping. If you don't know how to listen for ping, maybe not a good idea. What kind of ignition? OEM? or aftermarket? sometimes playing with the gap on aftermarket high energy ignitions can change the feel. As far as a cam, depends on your driving style. If this is a "around town" car, switching to a hipo cam will make it feel slower. Usually you shift the power higher up in the rev band and only feel it when you are driving hard. Unless you are shifting at 5k rpm all the time, be careful of switching cams. In my 740 (with V8) the current motor has a bigger cam, but since I shift under 3k rpm, the car feels slower than it did with the old "peanut" cam. If I run it hard I can feel the increase in power, but rarely do.


My first Volvo was a 68 142S, Bought it in 1981, fun car and miss it a little. Enjoy your ride

E-fans suck, and might not even work with a 35 amp alternator.

[Dan]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

E-fans suck, and might not even work with a 35 amp alternator.

E-fans are fine if done correctly. 35 amp alt will be a problem for sure, since a decent fan pulls 20 amps

[dl242gt]

If it's a 140 that has the optional rear window defogger. Those cars got a 55 amp alternator. My 123gt had a 35 amp alternator. I had a 55 amp 140 motorola one rebuilt with an integrated regulator. Worked really well on there for many years. None of that was gonna run an efan though.

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Dan

E-fans are fine if done correctly. 35 amp alt will be a problem for sure, since a decent fan pulls 20 amps

Next thing you'll be telling us is that the other quintessential TB cut sprangz mod is the best thing since sliced bread & toilet paper.