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240 R134 conversion and blower

mschultz373

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2020
Location
dirty coast
Two years ago I had a local mechanic shop allegedly do a conversion on my 240s air conditioning to run r134. However it’s not blowing cold and only blew cold for maybe a couple months, and they only charged me like $130 to do it. So I’m wondering what components to look at or what I need to look for to verify they actually completed the conversion correctly, or maybe they just put r134 instead of r12 in the compressor? If it’s the case they didn’t complete the conversion correctly, I’m assuming I should be able to refill the compressor with r12 and get cold air?

Also, positions one and two on my blower don’t work, it kicks in at three and four and blows the correct speed there but it doesn’t blow in the earlier positions. Any help on what to look for in terms of fixing this would be awesome.

Thanks y’all!
 
It's kind of crazy how similar our stories are. I just started looking into what to do about my AC today. I also had a shop supposedly convert my AC 2 years ago for very cheap and I don't think that did it right. Nothing constructive to add, just an irrelevant coincidence.
 
They just added a fitting and filled with r134. You more than likely have a leak somewhere(o rings on of the ac hoses). Sounds you like the blower motor resistor is on its way out. You could refill with r12 but its very expensive( around $100 for the amount you would need). You have to find the source of leak first if you want to work reliably.
 
You have melted wiring on the resistor. Get an OEM resistor replacement. It isn't easy to swap. It will take you an entire weekend on the first try.

The shop likely just added a fitting to connect a R134 machine, vacuumed it down, charged it up and shipped it. Its about a $130 job.

To go thru and change all the orings is many hours of work. It can easily be $1,000+ at a shop.

The most likely area for a leak...I wanna say your condenser. In front of the radiator. Finding small leaks is tough. What I would personally do, is recover it again, vacuum it down, add 2 oz of ester oil with some green dye in it, and then just drive it. I have years of experience finding even the toughest leaks. It usually just looks like a small damp spot and it can be difficult to see/find. We also use sniffers, but usually a visual reveals the leak quickly.

Worst case, the evaporator. You will already be in there for the blower resistor job. I wouldn't just toss some aftermarket junk in there as preventative maintenance. Find the leak, fix it, and go from there.
 
To go thru and change all the orings is many hours of work. It can easily be $1,000+ at a shop.

It's worth the time and money to buy tools and LEARN how to build, repair and service an old AC system. If you're not mechanically inclined and driving an old car, you need a big budget for mechanics who were probably in diapers when your car was made.
 
You can have AC (for a little while) without all the hassle. Yes , it won't be the correct way but it works (for me). 134a is cheap, so having to refill maybe one a year isn't bad. I put a port in the ac low side line to make it easier to fill. First pulled a vacuumed, then added a weighed amount of 134a with I don't remember what type of oil. It lasted 2 years. Note I only drive the car sometimes in summer, never in winter. This year I had it refilled again, just recently. Temps in NY have been in the 90s. I cool as ice. Maybe one day I'll look for the leak bur right now not a priority. Pic of the port I used.
s-l1600.jpg
 
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