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Old 05-19-2021, 07:15 PM   #76
Alex Mcknz
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That is a great option that you have there, I am excited to see the outcome of your hardwork. Good luck with this build!
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Old 06-05-2021, 06:09 PM   #77
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In preparation for the inspection finished up my 3d printed cover extenders and glued them in place with loctite 401, which worked well, although 403 would be better for the high heat application. It was a pretty tight fit, at the bottom a little trimming was needed, but it hasn't made any marks on the cover yet


Spent a tense couple of hours at the dutch DMV equivalent, and ended up going home with the new engine registered to the chassis. I got a few comments about the brakes being different and the suspension being altered, but after an inspection, they gave me the go ahead


Since my dad's hometown was along the road from the inspection location, I payed the place a little visit


In order to get an idea of how the car would do with some added boost I installed a simple narrowband gauge, to see if I was slightly in the ballpark, and not running out of fuel


I also discovered that one of my spare old NA computers had the daughterboard inside, so I added a buchka board to it for my wasted spark and put in the stage 1 tune I sell along with Cameron (Redblockpowered). Since I slightly bumped compression I ran the 95RON tune, with 98RON fuel for safety. Additionally I answered a question I had for myself, the OEM daugherboard equipped ECU's do not run without a chip installed, so in case of the chip failing, no accidental knock should occur


As an excuse to do a little endurance testing on the new chips and boost control I installed, me and my brother took part in the rally organized by our motorsports association, going all across the Netherlands, including Assen TT circuit


The 18T hybrid also got a new actuator bracket, ready to install after I get the 25 row oil cooler in, and find a conical 6cm3 housing for the TD04HL.


Also got my new favorite picture with the car, more to come!
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Old 06-07-2021, 09:07 AM   #78
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Since I had some time left after the roadtrip, I decided to fix the alignment, as I noticed the new weight on the car gave it some toe out, instead of my usual 2mm toe in. Whilst under the car I also installed the caster correcting shims (1359607), I only dared to go with two as otherwise very little of the control arm was still in the second busing.


It was pretty tight, but a ratchet strap solved my issue without having to pull on it all like a maniac


After a drive, I noticed that the shims were rubbing together making a audible noise, but the caster felt great. So for those planning on doing this mod, only run one shim with a later 390,5mm strut. My control arms are the old 385mm version, so I had to use 2 to get to the 396 of the optional taxi struts. I just decided to bite the bullet and ordered two of these from skandix, which should allow more adjustment, and fix my new noise.


Quick reference from skandix for lengths:
Volvo 3530789 = Length 390,5mm for Standard Chassis
Volvo 3530790 = Length 385 mm for vehicles with 16" wheels
Volvo 3530791 = Length 396mm, genuine Accessory part
Volvo 6819079 = Length 388,5mm. Volvo Service part for vehicles with rubbing brakes. Caution: special bushings which are discontinued.
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Old 06-08-2021, 10:05 AM   #79
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How much caster did you end up with?
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Old 06-08-2021, 10:10 AM   #80
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I went from 5° to around 7°, so we'll see what the adjustables allow.

Also just tried the blue kinugawa 10lbs bov spring, still stuck at around 13psi, so either a boost leak, which it does not appear to be since it spools and idles well, or the 13c is out of juice pushing through the Chinese intercooler. Dyno is planned in a month, so hopefully the air temperatures drop a bit by that time:P

Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-08-2021 at 12:01 PM..
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Old 06-08-2021, 02:26 PM   #81
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Hmm. Definitely interested in those adjustable control arms, I wonder what kind of adjustability they offer. Probably just min to max Volvo length but who knows. More than that might screw up the front control arm bushings. I think I'm around 5 and a half degrees now with 390.5 mm arms and new normal rubber bushings. More would be exciting.
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Old 06-14-2021, 08:14 AM   #82
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Well turns out I had the 390mm arms already, so the setting I had for the 7 degrees of caster was at 400mm, so that is what I went with for the new arms.


I also noticed that the new arms came with the shims intentionally welded on at an angle, to relieve some of the strain in the conical bushes.


For easy install, I put the length at 385mm, and determined the thread pitch to be 1.5mm, so 1 turn would result in 3mm of additional length.


This also yielded 55mm of length in between the adjusters, with a total remaining thread length of 28mm.


I decided 20mm of thread engagement was where I'd like to be, for 400mm length, given that the thread measured at 14mm, giving a bit of safety factor over the one thread diameter rule of thumb. The sticker indicates washer orientation to make sure I got it right


Putting it all back to torque spec was a bit of a pain, as the lock nuts kept spinning loose when tightening the bolt on the end of the control rod. A bit more muscle on those did the trick, and I retightened for safety afterwards once more. The wheel now looks kind of funky in the wheel well, but it handles nicely


On other news, I found a td04HL 7cm3 conical housing, for cheap since it has a slight crack, but it will do to determine if I want to invest in the angled flange setup before splurging 250eu on a newly produced one


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Old 06-27-2021, 03:32 PM   #83
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Given that my turbo engine has been reliably performing for a few months now, I decided it was time for the old beast to go. I freshened it up with new seals, timing and paint, and sold it to 2 local guys who are rallying their 142 across Europe, so its found a good home.


My oil cooler kit also arrived from Sweden, so I got that installed. It's a mocal unit with thermostat, which made me struggle a bit, as I lost my 1inch socket. Luckily the adjustable wrench worked well enough to get it tight.


Decided on getting the biggest unit they offered, a 25-row, such that I can open up a air path behind the license plate if I need to. No plates for trackdays, and then back to covered up for road use, to allow a bit of extra cooling for both the radiator and oil


With the new space created when I cut out some space for the intercooler, the hoses found this nice route


The bottom gets a lot of air flow from the air dam underneath, it cools well in this spot from what I could tell from the first km's with the setup, highway temps clearly dropped a bit on the oil temperature gauge.


I decided to go a bit overboard with the rubber isolation, since mocal only warrantees with plenty of support. I also ordered some nice hose separators, to keep the hoses from rubbing together and on other parts.


Some heat protective sleeve is also on its way for the hoses next to the downpipe as I am a bit worried about the heat in this area long term.
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Old 07-06-2021, 04:34 PM   #84
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With this weeks holiday from my thesis, I finally got around to dyno the new engine!


To get the most out of the 3 runs usually offered by Van Vught, I did a first run on 0.9bar (178whp@324Nm), a second one at 0.6bar (173whp@300Nm) and a third at 0.3bar (147whp@239Nm) to see how the chipset does on different levels.


The car ended up making a little less than the US run on the chips (although within 5whp), possibly due to the reduced timing 95RON tune I used. The lambda reading down below were taken from the tip of the exhaust, and showed values that I don't quite trust, those will have to wait for confirmation by a downpipe mounted lambda. I might also get into a set of diy knock headphones, just to check if its pulling timing and going rich as a result.

On the LPT 0.3bar wastegate run it made at least 10hp more than the volvo spec, and the same for the HPT 0.6bar run, showing me that the light port and to 8.7->9.3 bumped compression did increase the engines efficiency. We also did a additional run to see what the 13c did at 1.0 bar, but this made less power and torque, showing the drop in turbo efficiency. Given that the turbo kept pulling up top, the limit was not in the exhaust/turbine side from what it appears, as noted by the tuner at VVT.

Before the dyno when checking over things, I found this little bugger, which caused my stalling and flutter issues. Apparently I accidentally put the good one in the shelf turbo, so that was an easy fix. I also previously added a 10lb spring from kinugawa, to make sure it kept shut at the raised boost levels.


I also finally got around to fabbing up a strut brace, starting with a bit of fire and this nice thickwall tube, to get a few bends going


Made up a few cups to connect to the strut tops


And decided on some support bracing, such that I could still access my fluids


A bit of welding, cutting and not taking pictures later


Installed after a bit of black. It does wonders, much less chassis flex, and a lot faster steering response, well worth it for the time it took

Last edited by Swedbrick; 07-07-2021 at 06:23 PM.. Reason: Dyno video added
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Old 07-07-2021, 08:08 AM   #85
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Dyno numbers look good, probably within dyno to dyno variance. Doubt it would run really at all with the indicated AFRs, or at least you'd be wondering why you have another liter of oil in the pan every time you checked it...

I like how it keeps pulling all the way to redline, basically.
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:30 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
I like how it keeps pulling all the way to redline, basically.
Yes it's wonderfully smooth, I've never stacked so many miles on the car in such a short period, for now I'm just going to enjoy it for a bit. It's almost a shame to mess with the setup from this point

Getting back on my list of sorting the tedium, my power steering line was rubbing on the ic pipes, worn and too long, so I got a bunch of speedflow power steering fittings. Awesome quality, and super easy to assemble if you get the proper kit from them.


The rack received a m14x1.5 and a M16x1.5 to AN6 adapter with a washer seal.


The return fit in nicely with a 90° 3/8" barb, however the feed had to go the other way, due to clearance issues. Possibly a straight fitting or a 45 would have worked better here, but given I had to wait 2 months for this to clear customs I made due


A clamp and a hard to see rubber grommet were added to keep the rubbing to a minimum.


The pump side received a m16x1.5 inverted flare to AN6 adapter and fit up nicely in between the various wires and steering runs. At last no more air in my fluid after hard driving!


I still need to add a oil cooler in the return at some point, but that can wait for now. A cheap AN6 cooler kit
should do
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