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Old 06-18-2012, 08:40 PM   #176
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Right...because stock plug wires fit Chevy truck coils perfectly.
I forgot ya have the hipo coil set up . But wouldn't a stock chevy plug wire work?
Or quit being cheap & buy proper timing light.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:13 PM   #177
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He has MegaSquirt and individual coils for each plug Mike. Suspect the 'stock Chevy' wires are the problem.

Jared - before we chase this all over Charlotte - can you put a caliper on the wire and tell me the diameter? I'll measure the induction clamp and we'll see what we've got.

The opening in mine looks square but is a hair rectangular. 9.6mm x 8.9mm So apparently my "9mm" wires are about as big as can fit in mine.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:31 PM   #178
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Copied from the last page

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Right...because stock plug wires fit Chevy truck coils perfectly.

Edit// Sorry. That came off kind of douchey.

Anyhow, borrowed my neighbor's timing light and it has a slightly larger clamp. When I looked down, I noticed that the CAS hold-down bolt had made itself scarce. Timing was like 20* advanced. That'll 'splain it.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:48 PM   #179
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Ya know the early style(also cheap styles) timing lights didn't have a induction clamp. Why not use that type? I have one. IIRC bought it at A/Z.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:06 PM   #180
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LOL - I didn't even know you could buy one like that any longer. I'll stick with the clamp.
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:11 AM   #181
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LOL - I didn't even know you could buy one like that any longer. I'll stick with the clamp.
Yep, still available. Have to be careful on hi voltage system with them though. or you'll get ZAPPED.
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:15 PM   #182
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got to see this car in person today....i love it.

and thanks to YOU, now i have to get megasquirt so i dont get lh'd anymore
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:25 PM   #183
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got to see this car in person today....i love it.

and thanks to YOU, now i have to get megasquirt so i dont get lh'd anymore
and i have to get megasquirt so i dont get regina'd anymore...

good seeing you again, jared! the car is lookin sexyyy
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:31 AM   #184
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get all the ignition stuff sorted? hows it feel timed? probably less det now.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:13 AM   #185
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i got to ride in it with derek driving, it feels very very quick.

definitely could use more turbo, but it rips
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:03 PM   #186
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got to see this car in person today....i love it.

and thanks to YOU, now i have to get megasquirt so i dont get lh'd anymore
Sounds like a plan. It's a whole different world man.

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and i have to get megasquirt so i dont get regina'd anymore...

good seeing you again, jared! the car is lookin sexyyy
Thanks a bunch. Give us a holler if you need help on yours.

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get all the ignition stuff sorted? hows it feel timed? probably less det now.
Slowed down a bit...base timing was at 28* advanced That'll do it.

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i got to ride in it with derek driving, it feels very very quick.

definitely could use more turbo, but it rips
Don't worry-a 19T conversion will happen before the summer's over.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:04 PM   #187
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hot dang son... what's it at now???
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:15 PM   #188
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hot dang son... what's it at now???
10*, like it should be.

The hold-down bolt for the CAS went missing, and it moved, thus changing base timing. Nick noted that given the way the distributor shaft turns, the CAS would have to turn the opposite direction to advance timing, so I'm not sure what happened. All is well now though.

I'm also battling a little bit of what I think is vapor lock. A couple weeks back, I got tired of the gas tank releasing pressure every time I took the cap off. I pulled the plastic trim out and sure enough, the one-way vent valve was stuck shut, and has been for years. I took it out and just ran the vent hose straight off the tank.

Now (it's done it twice) on a very hot afternoon, after I drive the car a bit, let it idle/sit in traffic/etc, and park for a minute, it doesn't run right. It'll idle and free-rev just fine, but when a load is put on the car, it falls on it's face, bucking badly.

Let it sit and cool for 10-20 minutes, and all is well again. Matt's dad heard a "pop", I got back in, and it drove perfectly. I'm going to replace that one-way valve, and then get started on upgrading my fueling system. It's the 32-year-old weak link at this point anyhow.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:26 AM   #189
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see what the IAT values are after it sits, see how bad the sensor heatsoaks and how it affects fueling.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:24 AM   #190
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Even with the tank at atmospheric - your pumps and 40 psig (give or take) should keep you out of vapor lock Jared; one of the benefits of higher pressure fuel required for fuel injection. I wonder if the vent valve being stuck was allowing a bit of pressure to build in the tank (hence the 'whoosh' when you remove the cap) -- and that is masking a bad/weak in-tank pump or a deteriorated in-tank hose on the outlet of that pump. And when you 'permanently' vented the tank, your pressure assist moving fuel out of the tank to the in-line pump went away.

Is the one-way valve the little device that sits high on the tank opposite the rearend? Mine's probably due for replacement as well. If so - can anyone see the harm in simply replumbing the aged vent line and relocating that device somewhere more convenient? It would make 'demolition' much easier - just rip out the old hose, leave the old valve in-place, run new hose and put the new valve under the car somewhere easier to get to. Ironically - I've been all around that hose/valve as I've completely re-plumbed the fuel system on mine.

Sorry - hijack....

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Old 06-26-2012, 05:24 AM   #191
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double post
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:27 PM   #192
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Even with the tank at atmospheric - your pumps and 40 psig (give or take) should keep you out of vapor lock Jared; one of the benefits of higher pressure fuel required for fuel injection. I wonder if the vent valve being stuck was allowing a bit of pressure to build in the tank (hence the 'whoosh' when you remove the cap) -- and that is masking a bad/weak in-tank pump or a deteriorated in-tank hose on the outlet of that pump. And when you 'permanently' vented the tank, your pressure assist moving fuel out of the tank to the in-line pump went away.

Is the one-way valve the little device that sits high on the tank opposite the rearend? Mine's probably due for replacement as well. If so - can anyone see the harm in simply replumbing the aged vent line and relocating that device somewhere more convenient? It would make 'demolition' much easier - just rip out the old hose, leave the old valve in-place, run new hose and put the new valve under the car somewhere easier to get to. Ironically - I've been all around that hose/valve as I've completely re-plumbed the fuel system on mine.

Sorry - hijack....
As for the in-tank pump, it's a recent replacement, about 8 months before I stopped driving the car. That said, it is an "Airtex" brand, and I remember it feeling cheap when I put it in. The submersible hose was also replaced with the correct submersible fuel line.

The one way valve was located (on my car) under the black plastic trim underneath the carpet on the passenger side of the trunk. There's a nipple off the filler tube , and the valve is close to that, before it transitions to a hard line and goes under the car to a nylon line which originally went to the charcoal canister. The valve was red and black.

I know vapor lock isn't very common on EFI cars, but that's just what it felt like. Whatever is going "pop" once the car cools is where the problem lies.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:40 PM   #193
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Hmmm....there's nothing between the filler tube connection and the device I described earlier on mine. Just hose. And I misspoke - it's not attached to the tank on mine; but rather the unibody just above the tank. Perhaps they changed locations between your year and mine.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:16 PM   #194
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Perhaps. Sure you're not seeing the rollover valve?
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:13 PM   #195
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LOL - I have no idea what I'm seeing -- that's why I asked....

Educate me - if there's a 'one-way vent valve' -- what purpose would a 'roll over valve' serve?

Edit -- duh, I guess the check valve keeps anything (like boost) from possibly pressurizing the tank; rollover valve keeps liquid from exiting the tank through the vent line in the vent the car gets upside down.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:20 PM   #196
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Hmm...well it looks like the vent valve and rollover valve are one and the same.

http://apps.volvocars.us/ownersdocs/.../88240_03a.htm
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:56 PM   #197
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Just to update this a bit...

Fuel system is now a Walbro 255 in the tank, and a stock LH pump under the car. I probably don't need the LH pump, but I didn't have the fittings required to bypass it. It's working fine.

It's now got a G80 out back.

Cable clutch has been ditched in favor of a hydraulic setup.

And I got an RSI Stage II cam in the mail today. The K that's in there will be going in BrnBrik to see how quick we can make it as an N/A.

Gonna roll out and take some pictures tonight.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:29 PM   #198
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May have brakes after this weekend; but could be the next one after that. Glad yours is coming along. Lose that LH as soon as you can; Walbro is plenty by itself.
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:42 AM   #199
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i thought i read on facebook that you grenaded your clutch???

needless to say im glad you didnt, but maybe i misread?
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:55 PM   #200
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The Kennedy Stage III pressure plate grenaded everything but the clutch...

Started pulling the cable apart

Bent the pedal box all to hell:



Cracked the firewall and pulled a weld-nut through:



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