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Old 11-24-2005, 02:48 PM   #1
Turbo, what?
klr142's Avatar
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OR
Default No Longer Mom's Grocery Getter('91 244)

Summary of current setup(updated 4/29/14 - 208k on car):

Car's full gallery seen here with the newest pictures at the end:

Misc details:
-Tint, 38% side windows, 18% rear
-Keyless entry(was working, now solenoid or something in driver's door is weak, need to look into it)
-Heated seats(pass. stopped working, haven't looked into it)
-Air-conditioning converted to R134
-Kenwood deck with 5.25" front door speakers and 4" rear door speakers, RF amp, and Kicker 10" sub(thanks Dan + Shane!).
-Dash mat, floor mats(blue cloth and black rubber)
-Large tachometer, small clock conversion
-VDO vacuum gauge when I want it
-Removed front amber reflectors, installed clear upper parking light bulbs, kept amber turn signal bulb
-Black on blue interior theme

-17x7.5" Tethys wheels from a S60T5, wheel and hub centric 35.5/38.5mm adapters, rear fender lips "rolled", 225/45-17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires at the moment(awesome! But next I'll get some Continental all seasons and run some dedicated track tires for fun stuff), had Hankook Ventus V12 EVOs and 215/45-17 General Exclaim UHP tires before that(great for a daily driver tire, especially in the wet when new, not the best for autoxing with though, they're a little on the soft side and don't have as much contact area as they could - that being said, the V12 EVO tires don't feel much better and after some miles on them grab ruts, REALLY badly - not really impressed with them, although I did get ~30k+ out of both tires, somehow!)
-IPD braided stainless steel brake lines
-ATE Type 200 brake fluid
-Poly control arm bushings up front
-Poly torque rod bushings, original front lower TABs with new rubber rear TABs
-IPD adjustable panhard rod
-25/21mm swaybars with poly bushings (had solid/adjustable end-links from Kaplehnke installed but went back to stock w/poly to smooth/quiet down the ride a hair)
-Stripped of undercoating and painted front subframe, control arms, strut assemblies and front calipers
-Volvodan upper strut brace, Volvo GT strut to firewall braces(currently removed for less interior noise/vibration/crashing over bumps), IPD Cherry lower brace(heavy, but so worth it)
-GT strut tower reinforcement plates
-Bilstein HDs up front(internal bumpstops shortened) and back, had Koni Reds/Specials set full stiff(still not quite perfect but ended up liking the cushier ride of the HDs more) - Have some HDs sitting around to get droop shortened and custom damping rates one day...
-Was: 10x200lb coil-over springs up front sitting in stock perches with help and 2.75-3ish coils cut from wagon springs on the rear. Now: some red lowering springs(Lesjofars?) with a coil and a half cut from the front and the dead coil removed from some TME rear springs(might also be a coil and a half, can't remember for sure).
-Trimmed rear bump stops, none up front except the Bilsteins' internal ones.
-Kaphlenke geometry roll correction spacers installed on middle quick steer setting(LOVE/HATE THEM!!! car is MUCH more planted in the rear, easier to put the power down and less roll up front, definitely a plus!) But, the steering geometry is off a hair more when doing full lock turns and it of course rubs on whatever there is to rub on because there aren't any more steering limiters. It also puts a heavier load on the steering rack and other components, which, in my case, sucks because you can't get a good rebuilt rack anymore and my recently replaced one is worn already. I'll be going back to the stock balljoint holders to make the car steer more like stock and make tight turns better.

-RSI head with 46/38 valves, street valvespring kit(7500rpm), Jonathan's port work and valve grind, shaved .040" and using a .040" MLS headgasket for .033" squish - 10.8:1 compression
-H cam 0-8 degrees advanced depending on what I want(ENEM K13 puts down similar power to H cam in this setup on stock intake/LH, etc. except has slightly worse driveability under 2000rpm, is slightly rougher/noisier everywhere and has a weaker idle - ONLY SLIGHT, I'll be swapping it back in because the car has a lot more low end torque when the cam is advanced 6-8 degrees but detonates...)
-LH2.4 ECU and EZK chips(custom 6800-7500rpm) - currently using custom chips for the 146 EZK and 951 ECU(Using an Ostrich 2.0 emulator and TunerProRT to tune! so awesome, car's never run better!)
-Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper(*should* remove until I have piston oil squirters)
-Oil pan drilled in optimal position for turbo oil return(that I don't plan to use)
-KG Trimning Type 3 copy header, modified the old Type 1 described here with 51mm secondaries and new collector from Columbia River Mandrel Bending. Old: KG Trimning Type 1 header with 44mm primaries and secondaries, with secondaries shortened to ~17"(primaries are also about the same length, in theory should be good match for H cam with a 5800rpm power peak, but I suspect it's still too small for anything other than a stock car... It may be limiting my power above 4000rpm, but maybe it's more the intake's fault? Probably both)
-RSI full 2.5" mandrel bent S.S. exhaust with 2.5" metallic spun Magnaflow cat, Dynomax Race Bullet and Magnaflow 4x9x11 and 5x8x18" oval mufflers(swapped out my old Dynomax Bullet and 4x9x14" rear mufflers because it was too loud with the engine/header work - I need to add sound deadening to the trunk to quiet the in car sound some more, still - outside is awesome)
-16V white top injectors(cleaned/flowed) - (stock ones were still providing enough fuel in this setup, but...)
-3.0bar FPR(stock)
-Bougicord shielded spark plug wires after multiple different brand aftermarket plug wire failures
-K&N air filter in modified airbox
-Wideband o2 sensor(need to get a new one, current one is dead)
-960 E-fan and relay with 82/77* temp switch screwed into the top of the radiator - holds temps basically right where 87* the t-stat wants it!
-M47 transmission(have broken two in ~50k!) with RSI modded flat flywheel(15.4lbs) - had lightened LH2.4 flywheel(pedastal'd + more, 22.2lbs vs. 28.7lbs)
-TruTrac rear diff with the stock 3.73 rear end gearing. Still spins inside rear at times in autox...

-Weight: 2900lb
-Dynoed 139whp and 146wlb-ft, best AT setup pre-head/cam with RSI NA cam was 115whp and 128wlb-ft on a Mustang dyno.
-Fastest pass at the drag strip is a 15.437@86.72mph, with a 2.147 60'
-Best gas mileage so far is 30.0mpg and have done a couple over 415+mi tanks now... w000!

To do list:
-B21F intake manifold with a 4 bolt throttle body on the front(for 16V, 960, 850 TBs)
-Maybe 300-350lb front springs and 175-200lb rears on coil-overs at some point
-Larger, custom camshaft...
-Transmission with good gear ratios(likely T5 of some sort with tall first and medium 5th with 4.10 rear end, but I'd really, much rather, have something quieter and more modern!)
-bottom end rebuild
-sound deadening in the trunk/elsewhere

Appraised at $8500, "fair market value".
When I first got the car:
So, I've been driving it around for almost two months now while my 142's chillin at the shop, and a couple of weeks ago, I put down the money to buy it. It just "grew" on me, a LOT. Now 105.6k, with a b230F, LH2.4, and a tragic auto that for some DUMB Volvo reason, doesn't have a lockup converter. If only it did *sigh*, I'd be much happier. So, here it was, while my mom was trying to sell it:

The plan is, nice, comfy, relatively luxurious(coming from a '68 142) with keyless entry, four speakers(instead of one), heated seats, a REAL rear window defroster, power brakes, power steering, AC(needs to be changed to R134), power windows, etc.

Last edited by klr142; 04-29-2014 at 07:06 PM.. Reason: Updating...
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