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Old 07-10-2021, 06:29 PM   #26
dl242gt
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I use a mix of atf and penetrating oil. Gets them free.
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Old 07-10-2021, 09:38 PM   #27
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Did you check the cylinders and pistons rusted together?
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Old 07-10-2021, 09:56 PM   #28
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I will as soon as I can borrow my brothers borescope
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Old 07-13-2021, 12:25 AM   #29
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#4 piston found to be underwater

Thanks everyone
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Old 07-13-2021, 03:49 PM   #30
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Glad you got that figured out. It was a sneaky problem.
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Old 07-13-2021, 06:10 PM   #31
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Me too, what helped is clues from the PO about the cooling system being suspect.

A friend told me to WD-40 the water, fill it with diesel, let it soak, keep filling it, then rocking the crank back and forth so it eventually breaks free. I'd like to salvage this engine if I can, it's a B230FB
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Old 07-14-2021, 05:28 AM   #32
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Me too, what helped is clues from the PO about the cooling system being suspect.

A friend told me to WD-40 the water, fill it with diesel, let it soak, keep filling it, then rocking the crank back and forth so it eventually breaks free. I'd like to salvage this engine if I can, it's a B230FB
- water/coolant in the crank ?

- planning to Gerry-rig a shop vac and get that water out, or soak it out ?

- always heard transmission fluid, ...but diesel eh ?



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Old 07-14-2021, 05:56 PM   #33
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Hello,

I was just planning to blow out the water from #4 piston with compressed air, fill it up with diesel, let it soak, then keep repeating until I can unseize it. Diesel is lighter than ATF so in theory should get between the rings easier
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Old 07-14-2021, 06:04 PM   #34
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Diesel is not going to hurt anything but probably would be more effective with some ATF added. ATF is the 'go-to' seized nut solvent.
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Old 07-14-2021, 06:41 PM   #35
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ATF or PB Blaster. Also, Marvel Mystery oil is good for freeing up stuck engines.
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Old 07-14-2021, 08:45 PM   #36
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Dare I suggest some light acid like vinegar or oxalic? Phosphoric would eat the piston too fast. You'd want to soften the rust before the oil step, but if it's "too late" you could rinse with solvent and blow with compressed air to get dry/oil free again. FWIW I've run concentrated oxalic in 3 cooling sytstems (toyota 4k, B234F, and something else) now to clear out corrosion from previous owners, worked well for me even driving around on it to keep it hot and flowing. Bore is already damaged, softening the rust that way might make for less damage, not more, but chances are it'll have dubious compression and probably smoke from that cylinder. YMMV.
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Old 07-15-2021, 08:18 AM   #37
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Kroll
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Old 07-15-2021, 10:46 AM   #38
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Dare I suggest some light acid like vinegar or oxalic? Phosphoric would eat the piston too fast. You'd want to soften the rust before the oil step, but if it's "too late" you could rinse with solvent and blow with compressed air to get dry/oil free again. FWIW I've run concentrated oxalic in 3 cooling sytstems (toyota 4k, B234F, and something else) now to clear out corrosion from previous owners, worked well for me even driving around on it to keep it hot and flowing. Bore is already damaged, softening the rust that way might make for less damage, not more, but chances are it'll have dubious compression and probably smoke from that cylinder. YMMV.
Available at the hardware store as Wood Bleach, Oxalic Acid that is.
Definitely a great cleaner for the cooling system, used a sump pump in a bucket to pump through an old SBC that was full of rust to great success.

If it was me, I'd use MMO to unstick it out of habit.
Realistically, Panther Piss AKA 50/50 AKA ATF/Acetone mix would probably be the best.
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Old 07-15-2021, 05:31 PM   #39
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Kroll
It's Kroil.

https://www.kroil.com/?gclid=EAIaIQo...iAAEgJvr_D_BwE
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Old 07-15-2021, 07:46 PM   #40
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It's Kroil and it's not going to be available in OZ. I use it and it's one of the best penetrants I've used. I used it on a seized engine. A 50/50 mix of ATF and Kroil, and it broke that engine free after a week of sitting in it. The engine was seized from sitting in my barn for well over ten years. My 123gt engine cylinders were doused with Kroil when I started letting it sit. 15 years later the engine is fine and had good compression.

Last edited by dl242gt; 07-15-2021 at 07:47 PM.. Reason: spelling correction
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Old 07-16-2021, 08:40 AM   #41
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I bought a 1958 444 decades ago with a seized engine. Popped the head off and was lucky that none of the pistons were at tdc. Filled them with atf and Kroil. Let it work while I was at the 1976 new model school. Got a piece of wood about cylinder diameter and a favorite hammer. Every day it got a wack. One day it moved. Reinstalled the head and got it running. Drove it for many years until it grew a picture window.
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Old 07-16-2021, 02:21 PM   #42
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I bought a 1958 444 decades ago with a seized engine. Popped the head off and was lucky that none of the pistons were at tdc. Filled them with atf and Kroil. Let it work while I was at the 1976 new model school. Got a piece of wood about cylinder diameter and a favorite hammer. Every day it got a wack. One day it moved. Reinstalled the head and got it running. Drove it for many years until it grew a picture window.
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Old 07-17-2021, 07:52 AM   #43
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Wood bleach, and also marketed as "bore cleaner" for sterilising water sources.
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Old 07-17-2021, 10:03 PM   #44
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You took off ps and alt etc belts?
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Old 07-18-2021, 03:30 AM   #45
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You took off ps and alt etc belts?
No, no need

The first problem I have is getting the water out. There is so much in there that using the air compressor does nothing - What's a good way of extracting the water? I also tried to use a syringe, but that was also hopeless.
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:14 AM   #46
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No, no need

The first problem I have is getting the water out. There is so much in there that using the air compressor does nothing - What's a good way of extracting the water? I also tried to use a syringe, but that was also hopeless.
Take the head off? Then you'll be able to see the situation better too.
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Old 07-18-2021, 07:44 AM   #47
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may be leave the spark plug out, hand crank the engine a few cycles, then spin it over on the starter. I think that will get most coolant out.
BUT, the coolant did not magically end up inside that cylinder, it had to come from somewhere. Most likely from a blown head gasket. So, maybe it is best to pull the head off right away so you can remove the coolant and reassemble it with a new fresh head gasket.
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Old 07-19-2021, 02:58 AM   #48
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No, no need

The first problem I have is getting the water out. There is so much in there that using the air compressor does nothing - What's a good way of extracting the water? I also tried to use a syringe, but that was also hopeless.
How about try rig a shop vac, put the thinnest tip on vac, and tape a long tube narrow enough to get into where you need it to go ?

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