No start after timing belt!!

Wildmike · 09-04-2021, 06:04 AM

I have a b230f auto 1991 240 and I went to replace the front cam seals and went ahead and replaced the belts including timing. I put it back together without setting the timing right and tried to start it obviously with no luck. Took it apart and set the timing correctly and tried to start it and start it but nothing happened. And I drove it into my shop. I come to figure out I’m getting no fuel. No sound of pumps running when I turn the key. I go ahead and change the inline pump and fuel filter and still nothing. Fuses are good. My car does not have the 15 amp fuse In the engine bay. I connected a wire from the #4 to #6 fuse and heard the pump. Same thing when I jumped the pump relay. The only electrical connection I took off when I did the belt and seals job is the maf. I heard that the ecu could be bad but don’t want to just automatically buy one and have a chance of blowing it. Any ideas?? I’m at a stand still. I heard the oil pressure sender unit might have something to do with it for some reason. And just for more info, the car was running real rough beforehand and would cut out even with light throttle and would sometimes die at idle. I checked vacuum leaks and replaced pcv system, cleaned injectors, and have a maf on the way. Somebody help!!

James M · 09-04-2021, 06:37 AM

Oil pressure switch has nothing to do with the running condition

Double check everything you did, if it's worse then when you started you missed something.

ortho stice · 09-04-2021, 08:03 AM

So does the car run when you hot wire the pumps or not? Did you test the relay? I always keep a spare in my car because they go bad so frequently. Just had one fail last week in fact.

Mr. V · 09-04-2021, 12:40 PM

Those danged FP relays.

I had one fail in my 740, in the mtns: fortunately I had a spare.

Come to find out the spare was bad also, unbeknownst to me.

Moral of the story: always check your spares.

Nagrom · 09-04-2021, 01:52 PM

I went through this after a timing belt.

It ended up being my timing.

Check it again, I'd bet it's off a tooth at the crank.

ZVOLV · 09-04-2021, 01:55 PM

Remove the upper timing cover and look down into the lower cover with a strong flashlight. There is a notch on the belt guide and line it up with the raised ridge on the engine.

Wildmike · 09-04-2021, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ortho stice

So does the car run when you hot wire the pumps or not? Did you test the relay? I always keep a spare in my car because they go bad so frequently. Just had one fail last week in fact.

I haven’t tried either of those, so I will later today and see what the results are, but it’s a brand new relay also but hey sometimes you get bum parts off the shelf.

Wildmike · 09-04-2021, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nagrom

I went through this after a timing belt.

It ended up being my timing.

Check it again, I'd bet it's off a tooth at the crank.

I would, but like I said I’m getting absolutely no fuel I took the fuel rail bolts out and lifted the injectors out after cranking it multiple times and it was completely dry. The fuel pumps just aren’t activating

Wildmike · 09-04-2021, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Remove the upper timing cover and look down into the lower cover with a strong flashlight. There is a notch on the belt guide and line it up with the raised ridge on the engine.

Oh yeah I got all the marks lined up and made sure it’s at top dead center, and I have the timing covers completely off for the moment because I was just gonna throw them on after I got it able to run

ZVOLV · 09-04-2021, 02:27 PM

Did you reground the wires at the fuel rail? Those are for the ECM.

Install a test lamp BACKPROBED into the fuel injector connectors (peel back the boot) Key on- lamp should be lit. Crank- lamp should blink= injector pulse

Install a test lamp between the coil NEGATIVE and a good ground. Key on-lamp on. Crank- lamp should blink= ignition pulse.

Wildmike · 09-04-2021, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Did you reground the wires at the fuel rail? Those are for the ECM.

Install a test lamp BACKPROBED into the fuel injector connectors (peel back the boot) Key on- lamp should be lit. Crank- lamp should blink= injector pulse

Install a test lamp between the coil NEGATIVE and a good ground. Key on-lamp on. Crank- lamp should blink= ignition pulse.

Yep made sure I connected those grounds when I put it back on and ok I’ll try that. what coils are you talking about?

09-04-2021, 06:04 AM	#1
Wildmike Newbie Join Date: Sep 2021	No start after timing belt!! I have a b230f auto 1991 240 and I went to replace the front cam seals and went ahead and replaced the belts including timing. I put it back together without setting the timing right and tried to start it obviously with no luck. Took it apart and set the timing correctly and tried to start it and start it but nothing happened. And I drove it into my shop. I come to figure out I’m getting no fuel. No sound of pumps running when I turn the key. I go ahead and change the inline pump and fuel filter and still nothing. Fuses are good. My car does not have the 15 amp fuse In the engine bay. I connected a wire from the #4 to #6 fuse and heard the pump. Same thing when I jumped the pump relay. The only electrical connection I took off when I did the belt and seals job is the maf. I heard that the ecu could be bad but don’t want to just automatically buy one and have a chance of blowing it. Any ideas?? I’m at a stand still. I heard the oil pressure sender unit might have something to do with it for some reason. And just for more info, the car was running real rough beforehand and would cut out even with light throttle and would sometimes die at idle. I checked vacuum leaks and replaced pcv system, cleaned injectors, and have a maf on the way. Somebody help!!

09-04-2021, 02:27 PM	#10
ZVOLV <Master Tech> Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: California	Everybody should have a TEST LAMP Did you reground the wires at the fuel rail? Those are for the ECM. Install a test lamp BACKPROBED into the fuel injector connectors (peel back the boot) Key on- lamp should be lit. Crank- lamp should blink= injector pulse Install a test lamp between the coil NEGATIVE and a good ground. Key on-lamp on. Crank- lamp should blink= ignition pulse.

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09-04-2021, 06:37 AM	#2
James M Bored member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Chico, CA	Oil pressure switch has nothing to do with the running condition Double check everything you did, if it's worse then when you started you missed something.

09-04-2021, 08:03 AM	#3
ortho stice Board Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Braddock, PA	So does the car run when you hot wire the pumps or not? Did you test the relay? I always keep a spare in my car because they go bad so frequently. Just had one fail last week in fact.

09-04-2021, 12:40 PM	#4
Mr. V Board Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Portland, Oregon metro	Those danged FP relays. I had one fail in my 740, in the mtns: fortunately I had a spare. Come to find out the spare was bad also, unbeknownst to me. Moral of the story: always check your spares.

09-04-2021, 01:52 PM	#5
Nagrom Board Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: SF	I went through this after a timing belt. It ended up being my timing. Check it again, I'd bet it's off a tooth at the crank.

09-04-2021, 01:55 PM	#6
ZVOLV <Master Tech> Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: California	Remove the upper timing cover and look down into the lower cover with a strong flashlight. There is a notch on the belt guide and line it up with the raised ridge on the engine. __________________ No Start Thread