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Old 12-13-2021, 02:09 AM   #1
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Question Torque spects for everything

I have a 1968 Volvo 142s with a B20 Engine that I'm swapping a m40 into yada yada yada.
I looked in both the Green book and the Haynes manual and I only found the torque spec for the flywheel being 36-40 foot pounds. Is this right? Also what are the torque specs for the pressure plate, clutch housing, driveshaft bolts, transmission mount, cross member, and any other important ones. Is thread locker recommended for any of the bolts. I don't believe the Haynes book talks about it. Also I was told to use a small amount of grease on the heads of the bolts in order to get an accurate torque speck. Bs or not? Also if I do grease specifically the flywheel bolts will I risk it getting on my clutch assembly? Lastly how should I torque bolts that I can't reach with the wrench. Is tight enough ok or do I have to find like come crows foot wrenches or something.
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Old 12-13-2021, 06:31 PM   #2
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All of the torque specs you are looking for are in the Volvo green book for your car. Do not use grease on bolts for correct torque spec. You can use light oil on the threads. Stuff you can not reach with the torque wrench should be made tight by hand. I would suggest you practice a bit torqueing some fasteners at different tightness and give yourself an idea of how tight is tight enough. Then you'll get a handle on tight enough.
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Old 12-13-2021, 09:37 PM   #3
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thanks dude. Ill double check the book. I look for a half second and than say frick this Im going to tb where i get all my bad ideas from.
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Old 12-14-2021, 05:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Do not use grease on bolts for correct torque spec. You can use light oil on the threads.
I'd add that it's also a good idea to clean (like on a wire wheel) the bolts before you lightly oil the threads.
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Old 12-15-2021, 12:06 AM   #5
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I'd add that it's also a good idea to clean (like on a wire wheel) the bolts before you lightly oil the threads.
I did that. Went for a drive today. During the drive my dad stalled the car. We need some practice with the freedom box. Went to start the car and it refused to start. Battery was too dead to start. I think that alternator isn't charging the battery anymore... Ill see if I can fix it and Ill let you know later. I think the car stalled because he tried to go in third instead of first. I think the battery had enough volts to run the car but not enough to start it.
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Old 12-15-2021, 12:18 AM   #6
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Aside from breaking down in the middle of the road, the car drove excellently.
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Old 12-15-2021, 03:42 AM   #7
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Wait a 14 year old volvo owner actually finished a project that spurred up 3 threads?

Can we get this man boy an award. He is officially 10x better then any facebook volvo owner I've ever seen.
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Old 12-15-2021, 01:07 PM   #8
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I thought it wouldn't actually happen either. I'm 15 now though. Its kinda done. I still need backup lights and there's a hole in the floorboards where I need to put a shifter boot thingy.
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Old 12-15-2021, 05:52 PM   #9
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An update. I reconnected the wires and the battery seems to hold at about 12.26 volts when idling for 10 min. I don't know if this is weak or not but it stayed there after dropping from 12.38v on initial start. Keep in mind also that I have a harbor freight volt meter so it might not be accurate. The point is though is that it stayed somewhere once it got warm. Lastly, the idle was a bit high and I turned it down with the idle screws. seemed to do the trick. Why was it idling high? My guess is the fact that it is a different flywheel and stuff but I don't know.
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Old 12-15-2021, 07:31 PM   #10
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Anything under 12.6 is actively discharging the battery but you really want ~13.2+
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Old 12-15-2021, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Anything under 12.6 is actively discharging the battery but you really want ~13.2+
what is discharging the battery?
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Old 12-15-2021, 09:40 PM   #12
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what is discharging the battery?


Tha amps it takes to run the car that aren't being replaced by a faulty alternator.
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Old 12-16-2021, 01:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alschnertz View Post
I'd add that it's also a good idea to clean (like on a wire wheel) the bolts before you lightly oil the threads.
Sometimes there's stubborn crud / debris and / or minor damage to the hole's threads, in which case you can often repair it by chasing the hole with a tap.

Similarly, flaws on bolts can sometimes be salvaged using a die.

If this idea of using a tap and die is unfamiliar, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afX9EEzLK84

Harbor freight sells a reasonably priced set that is okay for occasional use.
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Old 12-16-2021, 03:04 PM   #14
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Another great way to repair threads on a bolt or screw is to use a thread file. They are very cheap and have four different threads on each file.
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Tha amps it takes to run the car that aren't being replaced by a faulty alternator.
I could have tried to guess. But why guess when I can have someone tell me whats right. I'm going to get a better volt meter as well so I can see a more accurate reading. I didn't test how much voltage the alternator was giving out, I tested to see what voltage the battery stayed at after the car warmed up and had run for a while. It stayed at 12.3 volts or whatever I said. Is there a way to see how much voltage the alternator is putting out?
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:26 PM   #16
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Test it when the car is running.
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:34 PM   #17
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where do I stick the sharp prong things?
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Old 12-16-2021, 07:29 PM   #18
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At the battery terminals where the voltage is charging the battery.
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Old 12-16-2021, 07:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968 volvo View Post
where do I stick the sharp prong things?
You stick them on the battery. Meter set for dc volts. 20v range. The alternator makes
higher voltage than the battery which results in charging the battery and supplying all the
other power needs while the car is running. Your charging voltage should be at least 13.6vdc.
It's better if it's slightly higher at around 14-14.4vdc.
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Old 12-16-2021, 09:33 PM   #20
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Ok my harbor freight voltmeter isn't cutting it than. the battery doesn't die when its running and yet it reads around 12.3 volts.
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Old 12-17-2021, 12:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Ok my harbor freight voltmeter isn't cutting it than. the battery doesn't die when its running and yet it reads around 12.3 volts.
Not necessarily. While there’s a multitude of different quality meters out there, 12.3 volts is too low when charging. I’d be surprised if your meter is off by that much. You can check it out on another car. Alternator sounds suspect.
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Old 12-17-2021, 06:39 AM   #22
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Also lights and fan on when testing.
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Old 12-17-2021, 05:13 PM   #23
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I found a problem. The positive terminal wasn't really that tight. I though I had tightened it down enough and it wasn't tight at all. The cable doesn't get tight enough. I took it apart and also found that the cable was really rusty. Replaced the cable and the voltmeter reads 16.68v once the car is warm and driven for a bit. I still don't trust the voltmeter all that much but that's a huge jump.
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Old 12-17-2021, 05:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Also lights and fan on when testing.
Ive got a belt driven fan.
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Old 12-17-2021, 05:25 PM   #25
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I think he means the heater-blower fan.
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