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Old 12-29-2021, 03:46 PM   #1
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Default Volvo M47 Clutch

Parts for these 240’s are getting in readily tough to track down. I have a 1992 that I want to swap my M47 into, I can’t seem to find a clutch kit. FCP (and others) seemed to have stopped carrying the kits (sachs clutch etc). I check three local stores too, no one can order Themis stuff. Any ideas, sources?
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Old 12-29-2021, 03:47 PM   #2
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FYI. I have what looks like an m46 clutch NIB, but no idea if it would work, also doesn’t help that the pressure plate would be old… I had the flywheel machines today. He said he only needed to take off a super minimal amount. So flywheel I should “I am not as worried” about! (The flywheel photo abound is “before” machining).
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Old 12-29-2021, 03:58 PM   #3
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I used the 740 turbo clutch kit on my 93 wagon when I replaced the clutch. You use the clutch kit for 85 and newer 740 turbos with the dished flywheel. I've used both the LUK kit and the Perfection clutch kit in the rock auto search. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993
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Old 12-29-2021, 04:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Iron View Post
FYI. I have what looks like an m46 clutch NIB, but no idea if it would work, also doesn’t help that the pressure plate would be old… I had the flywheel machines today. He said he only needed to take off a super minimal amount. So flywheel I should “I am not as worried” about! (The flywheel photo abound is “before” machining).
Off both surfaces? Where the disc presses on the flywheel and where the pressure plate mounts both have to be surfaced the same amount.
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Old 12-29-2021, 04:59 PM   #5
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Try e-bay.
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Old 12-29-2021, 05:31 PM   #6
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Looks like FCP still has the Sachs 740 turbo clutch kit in stock. Also for dogdish.
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Old 12-29-2021, 05:32 PM   #7
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Old 12-29-2021, 07:15 PM   #8
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Can anyone confirm if I can use that 740 clutch? NIB above? Can the pressure plate be resurfaced?

Also got the resurfaced flywheel back. He said he only had to take 8/1000’s of an inch off, minimal.
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Old 12-29-2021, 07:58 PM   #9
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looks like he did the flywheel correctly... even got the pins out and back in, not bad. You can measure it and know for sure
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Old 12-29-2021, 08:24 PM   #10
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Ya. When I brought it he said he thought it would be hard to get the pins out. When I picked it up he said he was way easier then he was counting on to get the pins out.
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Old 12-29-2021, 08:47 PM   #11
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You *can* use the 700T 228mm clutch kit in the sense that it bolts in & fits, but the stiffer pressure plate *might* prematurely wear or snap the OE clutch cable in the late model 240, is overkill and *might* result in a sore leg (in traffic) to hold the power during the service life of those screaming, raging, ~114HP (when new) of the B230F. YMMV.

They aren't making (& shipping) them @Sachs ~Germany in the supply chain crunch, but are supposed to again in 1-2 years, supposedly (prolly...nothing *that* special about a lousy 228mm clutch tho auto-trans are more efficient/better suited to meet new CAFE & federal emissions standards, so light duty truck/car manual trans has basically gone the way of the dodo.

They also aren't as 'safe' in traffic, tho insurance companies have yet to make that distinction by VIN # & charge more for manual trans cars in metro areas...that's probably a distinction without a difference, as driving a manual trans car (especially with typical Volvo ratios & power) *may* (not necessarily, though) also incentivize discarding the cell phone & being *dimly* attentive.

Sold almost all the low mile ones I hoarded to a local shop with appreciative customers that still drive & like these cars that wanted their car back/outta the shop side-yard.

Wish I hadn't scrapped the rattier examples, but hindsight & who coukd have possibly bet on hoarding & requiring PITA sealed/water/moisture proof indoor storage used clutches that fit the Vol-void application, the discs of which can't be stored in oil or wax (well, you can get them working (at all) again on a race track by torching them BTDT).

Still, should be back to 'normal' in a couple years & if you really have to, there are still some places in the USA that will 'reline' (same as mechanical brake parts) & rebuild a clutch, if it really comes down to that. The local one here got swallowed by a larger chain / perveyor of chinesium, marked up the long term durable parts a bunch more, & everyone with long term ability/experience to properly rebuild quit or took their buyout/layoff package, however.

That said, the spec on the steel & diaphragm springs aren't that common on small scale farm tractor & long term under-stressed long term durable & industrial applications....

I’ve had mixed luck with the luk clutch for the Volvo.
Removed a couple where the rivets failed on the disk
Maybe was a fluke, but it was more than one?
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Old 12-29-2021, 09:02 PM   #12
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You could get a sts flat flywheel and use the m46 clutch(easier to find). That's what I've been doing on the last few cars. I have a nice used non turbo m47 clutch that no one wanted(little did they know). I'll sell it cheap.
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Old 12-29-2021, 09:10 PM   #13
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^Less surface area, shorter life span, harder on your leg, not as good for pulling out of steep/awkward angle driveways heavily loaded at lowest possible RPM/least slippage or heat or in bad traffic is the trade-off w/ the 218mm clutches.

That said, the dished flywheel is downright awkward to drive on these, I got no clue why they made them so ridiculously heavy (5 big tall lutherans 2 kids in the back folding seat (IDK if they got those carsickness/death rear facing seats for the Swede market? I *think* so...) & all their camping gear & that obscure stump puller 1st gear rule that starts to appear in the late 1970s/regulation for the Switzerland market with the crazy steep hills???).

By all means sell your used, correctly stored indoors N/A Sachs clutch kit, if you can? It's the right part & you can use the N/A pressure plate/cover w/turbo disc, tho it's usually good if the disc/PP wear together or at the very least the flywheel is smooth/uncracked.

They never gave us the 240mm clutch of the B30 & V6 cars (or 940Turbo-diesel) for the 4-banger application & 'flat'-flywheel to allow E-Z pedal effort & long life, but it does *physically* fit in the bellhousing, if that matters/anyone cares?
The guy in england...username classicswede??? sells steel flywheels drilled for a 240mm clutch or that you can setup for the M90 application to hold pretty good power with minimal pedal effort.
At the end of the day, the redblock tractor is what it is...

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Old 12-29-2021, 09:52 PM   #14
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The turbo clutch really isn't that heavy. It's still an oem clutch for these engines.
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Old 12-29-2021, 10:51 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
The turbo clutch really isn't that heavy. It's still an oem clutch for these engines.


Seems fine to me but my car's a turbo so I need it.

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Old 12-30-2021, 12:45 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
The turbo clutch really isn't that heavy. It's still an oem clutch for these engines.
Yes, tho Volvo did make some alternate provisions for its use in the models it's installed in...

...it'll definitely bolt in & 'work,' but guys in white lab coats with more resources than us did a few things for the driver & long haul longevity...
...use the correct parts for the application if/when possible unless proven or there's a TSB/factory update, otherwise, or there isn't another option, for the most part.

& wat RWC sez

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Old 12-30-2021, 11:41 AM   #17
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Another option you have is to have your clutch rebuilt by H R Clutch in Bensalem PA. They have built clutches for me a couple of times and both were long lasting units.
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Old 12-30-2021, 12:42 PM   #18
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Another option you have is to have your clutch rebuilt by H R Clutch in Bensalem PA. They have built clutches for me a couple of times and both were long lasting units.
Does that include new throwout & pilot bearings and pressure plate?
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Old 12-30-2021, 01:31 PM   #19
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Does that include new throwout & pilot bearings and pressure plate?
It included a new throwout bearing. The pressure plate and disc is rebuilt by them. They raised the pressure plate clamping on the first clutch I had done and the second one was a dished flywheel clutch and for that one it got a new diaphragm spring when they rebuilt it.
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Old 01-01-2022, 03:48 AM   #20
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The Sachs '(motor)sport' pressure plate isn't a heck of a lot different AFAIK; MUCH stronger rivets & stronger better material 3-4 bands to retain the thing each post.

The disc the riddle is mostly just getting the appropriate composition, layers & correct spec spring in the thing, but you can 'reline' it if you can figure out the material & the whole hub is still tight on the input splines after you drill/remove all the rivets and get the thing apart...

The LUK clutches I yanked a couple out with busted hubs or springs were loose/buzzy on the transmission (prematurely wearing some of the trans parts) in the SOHC 4-banger or release bearing cut thru the diaphragm springs...something got lost in translation on the specs for that craptermarket (in the Volvo app...probably perfectly fine in factory apps. that use those?).

Various Volvo owners have blamed the release bearing quality, but more often than not they've used the wrong bearing in the wrong application; constant contact bearing with a return spring on the release arm (& also on the '81+ clutch pedal to better fight each-other & wear out the cable that much sooner ???) that they're trying to yank off the pressure plate

Or the release arm is bent, pivot is dry or about to punch thru the release arm or clutch cable is mis-adjusted.
Otherwise, the release bearing hasn't failed before the clutch with the correct parts running in correct adjustment with what comes in the correct OEM Sachs(such as brand name even means anything anymore ) kit for the application.

The clutch cables aren't quite as good as the 140 arrangement that are pulled by a stronger hook & less vibration dampened thicker eyelet on the bellhousing (but more feel or vibration thru the pedal)...tho the more rubber dampened 240 or later 740/260 diesel rubber dampened @ both ends cable has some advantages, too.

In the 240, the cotter pin wears out or needs to be flipped and re-lubed every ~1-200K with some decent extreme pressure moly grease instead of the factory 'chicken fat' gold chassis grease.
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