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Old 03-24-2011, 02:20 PM   #1
SteveMD
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Default The hardest part of a +T must be....

..... cutting the goddamn 1/2" NPT threads with the NA block in the car. Yes, I am turning the tap a smidge, backing off, turning again, and even taking out to clean from time to time. Tap is lubed. If I was doing this again, I would cut 1/2 NON-NPT straight threads as I am guessing that would require less muscle and time. [/rant off]
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:46 PM   #2
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+1!!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:47 PM   #3
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Weld bung on pan, done.
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:48 PM   #4
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or just quit bitching and use better tools?
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by m46destroyer View Post
Weld bung on pan, done.
This.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:22 PM   #6
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But then the bung points downward...
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:38 PM   #7
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Only if you weld it to the bottom of the pan.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:52 PM   #8
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or just quit bitching and use better tools?
Like what? The tap is a new Irwin/Hanson, made in USA AFAIK. I guess I need to eat more spinach.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:55 PM   #9
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Are you using anti-seize as lube?
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:02 PM   #10
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I'm about to +T my 240 and from what I read this part of the mod seems to be a pita... I'm going to pack up on elbow grease for sure!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:03 PM   #11
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We did three in one weekend. Hardest part was wiping the smile off the owner's faces.
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:03 PM   #12
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lol linuxman51!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:24 PM   #13
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Eff that. Get a spare oil pan, weld a bung in, swap out oil pans. Done.
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:31 AM   #14
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My +t was the hardest but that was my fault...
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:25 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by r55nls2002 View Post
Are you using anti-seize as lube?
Nope, just grease to catch chips.
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:59 AM   #16
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Default Swap sump?

Dunno about B230s, but swapping the sump involves lifting the engine on the B234F
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:39 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Like what? The tap is a new Irwin/Hanson, made in USA AFAIK. I guess I need to eat more spinach.
PM sent.
I will be in the district Saturday.
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:42 PM   #18
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Is the 1990 LH 3.1 turd getting turbo'd?
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:51 PM   #19
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If it is LH 3.1 I seriously want to have a chat with ya.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 03-25-2011, 03:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harribert View Post
If it is LH 3.1 I seriously want to have a chat with ya.
I DD a '92 M47 that was convered to 2.4 and to turbo before I got it. Most of the info is out there.
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:24 PM   #21
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I know about the 2.4 swap, and it isn't hard. Got wiring diagrams and hardware for both 3.1 and 2.4 T, which is only slightly different than 240 2.4.

I just want to see if anybody else ventures into adapting 3.1 to forced induction use before I do...

Last edited by Harlard; 03-25-2011 at 04:35 PM..
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBill View Post
Is the 1990 LH 3.1 turd getting turbo'd?
+Turd, yes
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
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If it is LH 3.1 I seriously want to have a chat with ya.
Will do. I heard someone here, maybe previous owner of Towery's DD ran 3.1 with 5 psi. no issues. Also vaguely recall someone else doing about the same. I may try 5 psi while keeping eye on knock sensor and wideband.
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMD View Post
Will do. I heard someone here, maybe previous owner of Towery's DD ran 3.1 with 5 psi. no issues. Also vaguely recall someone else doing about the same. I may try 5 psi while keeping eye on knock sensor and wideband.
Good deal. Lucky from IPD tells me that at least LH 3.2 (+T'd 1993 850) runs boost without any issues until 5 PSI or so, from which he told me the system started running pig rich. He recommended putting a piggyback on in order to compensate for MAF readings or something like that.

In any case, I'm intrigued: the real TPS and more advanced MAF should work nicely.
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:00 PM   #25
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I seem to recall it taking about 20 mins to thread the hole. Cast iron is soft as all getout.
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