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Old 10-13-2015, 04:10 PM   #1
Maligantblue
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Default Remapping and tuning, finding an oasis in the desert

Hello you wonderful folk.

my stupid soddding piece of crappy swedish.....lovely car i want to spend more money on. Has decided it doesnt like my new turbo, and after many many parts and tweaks just wont idle or drive well.

Have had a 16t turbo fitted, new and better pcv system, replaced the idle control valve and mas sensor, as well as new cambelt. cant start work on the rest of the car until it idles properly.
its also running rich.

my question is does anyone know anyone who can remap and tune the old thing, i live in newcastle atm (the north) (england) (europe)...
if not im selling for parts.
cheers boys

EDIT VOLVO 940 2.3T estate 1998 (celebration) terribly sorry old boy

Last edited by Maligantblue; 10-13-2015 at 05:06 PM..
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:25 PM   #2
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Believe or not, Volvo made many different models.....a year and what FI would be helpful
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:25 PM   #3
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What car?
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:15 PM   #4
Maligantblue
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Believe or not, Volvo made many different models.....a year and what FI would be helpful
edited my bad chaps
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Old 10-13-2015, 06:58 PM   #5
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You're missing something.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:56 PM   #6
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Nvm
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:13 PM   #7
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It probably doesn't need a "remap" - it will support those mods without trouble. My advice is to stage 0 the car and clean grounds and check the setting for idle (it's in the manual). Once adjusted, it should be fine. I'm making the wild assumption that your car is on Bosch Jetronic LH 2.4. There are chips available, but they are designed to sharpen tune to remove the "owners are muppets" that is the base assumption of most car mfg's. All the chip tuners will give you essentially the same advice, without new plugs, leads, cap, rotor, fluids, O2 sensor, belts, hoses and all other wear items on an old car, something is just going to fail every time you turn around and you'll be scrapping the car.
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:23 PM   #8
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^He's right, you know.

With stock injectors and MAF, you don't need a tune for the car to run properly.

Does the car idle well on a cold start, and idle goes to hell once its warm?
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Old 10-14-2015, 02:43 AM   #9
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you changed nothing that would lead to such behavior in idle.. so you probably made made mistakes wheter in replacing the IAC or the "better" PCV System.. you do know that you have a MAF and a better PCV isnt a disconnected hose with a cone Filter on it ? ;)
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Old 10-14-2015, 05:48 AM   #10
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you changed nothing that would lead to such behavior in idle.. so you probably made made mistakes wheter in replacing the IAC or the "better" PCV System.. you do know that you have a MAF and a better PCV isnt a disconnected hose with a cone Filter on it ? ;)
i have replaced the maf and pcv system with oem parts, when i say better i mean not full of oil any more.

when the maf is disconnected it idles but wont rev at all. when the idle control valve is disconnected it wont stall as much in idle and idle high.
if all connected as it should be, it stuggles to start, or idle, runs very rich and chucks black smoke when accelerating. and as far as i can tell its getting worse.
im only looking for a remap as that is what 3 garages have suggested as none can find the fault.
have sprayed brake cleaner all over the engine bay and nooks and crannys to find an air leak but nothing.
could a faulty wastegate cause this? as it was an ebay turbo
also there were some boost spikes on way back from garage as the mechanic put my bleed valve in backwards. (thats now been taken out)
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:17 AM   #11
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nope.. even when the turbo would be stuck or blocked it must idle like a charm..

You say OEM parts.. please look into the MAF itself.. is it a really really thin wire bonded around two posts or is it a fat wire stuck on a T..? These are crapster ebay MAFs so replace it with a Bosch one.. if you have Bosch make sure its not a copy..

If you have the Diagnosis Box get in to Mode 3 to test all the functionalities of the LH, Injectors and IAC will be tested.. The IAC does a loud Ca-Chunk, Ca-Chunk noise..

Again.. nothing needs to be remapped.. you could have bolted a Holset HX65 to the Engine which sticks out of the Hood in a Penisform .. it still needs to idle properly when everything is leakfree !
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:18 AM   #12
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Isn't a 98 obd2? Should be able to watch what the MAF is doing at least. But I dunno, don't have experience with any Volvos that new.

Is the IAC on backwards?
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:43 AM   #13
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brake cleaner finds the easy leaks. A smoke test or pressurizing the system finds the rest
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:35 AM   #14
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Might be worth making one of these little code readers to point you in the right direction:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpo...02&postcount=5
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:37 AM   #15
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that OBD tool is great.. one should fab them in series..
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:49 PM   #16
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**** it im probably gonna break for spares. dont have the knowledge to fix it, and no garrages have a clue.
cheers for your help anyway
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:49 PM   #17
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I'd put the old MAS sensor or AMM as it really is back in and check make sure the cam belt is on correctly and you hooked up you new idle speed motor the right way. I'd also unplug the PCV electrical plug. Basically check replace, put back all the old stuff that worked and make sure your cam belt is on right.

Yeah otherwise junk it..
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:44 PM   #18
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Don't scrap it, once you have it fixed it will be rewarding and well worth it once its running properly. I PROMISE its fixable, the garages you're taking it to obviously don't know how to diagnose your particular car. If you can't find a specialist, get a multimeter and find the fault yourself. Rely heavily on google searches of tests for various sensors on brickboard and you'll have it running in no time.

When did it START doing this "chucking black smoke" ?
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:22 AM   #19
Maligantblue
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A while after big job. Eg the turbo, cam belt, pcv system. Could a poorly timed cam belt cause it? And can anyone confirm a correct iac set up cause tbh it seems obvious how to fit it.
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:28 AM   #20
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Once the car is warm, you should be able to unplug the IAC and it will have no affect on your idle
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doucheNozzle View Post
Once the car is warm, you should be able to unplug the IAC and it will have no affect on your idle
Ehm... Nope ;)

Have you done the mode 3 test?!
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:37 AM   #22
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havent got a diagnostics box, and am at uni atm barely any time atm
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:25 AM   #23
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Oh.. Yeah sry... Missed the 1998 ;)
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Old 10-21-2015, 03:15 PM   #24
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Have you checked the coolant temps senor? That would make it run pig rich. Actually, it would cause most of the issues you are complaining about.
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