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Is this head destroyed

James M

James M

Unknown Member
Joined
May 2, 2017
Location
Davis CA
Reusing this thread since it fits, torn down the 160 head from "Matcha" to find 2 broken valve springs, lots of rust and the usual cracks between valve seats. #1 has cracks showing in the ports, 2-3-4 only in the chamber. Any use working with this head or should I case down a better one without rust stuck to it and cracks?

<a href="https://ibb.co/DW7SDNv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/W5cYWQM/20200704-155133.jpg" alt="20200704-155133" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/By6T25G"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/1rXRGtM/20200704-155134.jpg" alt="20200704-155134" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/qW1DmGh"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/TbhwPXJ/20200704-155233.jpg" alt="20200704-155233" border="0"></a>
 
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Doesn't look too bad. Just grind the sharp edges and send it. Though check the valves and seats, there might be aluminium pieces and they won't seal.
 
Lankku said:
Doesn't look too bad. Just grind the sharp edges and send it. Though check the valves and seats, there might be aluminium pieces and they won't seal.
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agreed. grind down any protrusions on the head and maybe replace that piston (or grind down any protrusions). my biggest concern would be the valves and seats after that. The damage definitely isn't pretty or ideal, but I know we've all seen worse.
 
I wouldn't be the slightest bit concerned about re-using that head. Have it skimmed to clean it up. Have a valve job done at the same time and you'll have a nice reconditioned head.
 
2manyturbos said:
I wouldn't be the slightest bit concerned about re-using that head. Have it skimmed to clean it up. Have a valve job done at the same time and you'll have a nice reconditioned head.
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definitely, take it to a machine shop, have the head milled and valve job done. I would recommend doing any porting work before hand, and have the machine shop clean, do a valve job, and mill the head. no little sparkly bits inside the engine
 
Inspect the valves and seats, clean off any aluminum, knock off the sharp edges and send it.

If you have plenty of disposable income take it to a head shop.

But first does any spray cleaner leak past the valves?

Check your turbo for any damage from piston bits....
 
When stuff like that gets too deep in the head surface. It is repaired by welding and then the head is surfaced. I had a shop do that to save a 531 head.
 
Yup, take it to a machine shop, easily reusable. Jump in on the valve GB, throw some nice valves and a little porting time into it as well, wake it up. Sorry, shameless plug for the valve GB going now...

That sucks man, glad you got a little time on it first. Definitely need more fuel for that setup though, 42's on that setup is pretty small.
 
James M said:
Question first then story time for my own entertainment: Is this head destroyed beyond usefulness?

<a href="https://ibb.co/gDnzp3X"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/tbd8t4N/20200102-224708.jpg" alt="20200102-224708" border="0"></a>​


I've seen some some pictures of ported heads with some of the material edge of the combustion chamber removed, specifically the ones from John V.
<a href="https://ibb.co/kHTpMjW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Fx19n2j/Volvo-Evo-2-807.jpg" alt="Volvo-Evo-2-807" border="0"></a>​

Thats more than just material removed. That chamber was filled in and reshaped and maybe longer valves installed. Looks like a sbc chamber on the good heads that are out there. The volvo chambers are so deep, its like a bathtub, lol
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dl242gt said:
When stuff like that gets too deep in the head surface. It is repaired by welding and then the head is surfaced. I had a shop do that to save a 531 head.
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I'd say that would have to depend on how deep the gouges in the head are, and how much you can actually take off the head. If you have the room to take off the head, trim it up, close up the chamber a bit and bump the compression a little at the same time.
 
KwikBrik245 said:
agreed. grind down any protrusions on the head and maybe replace that piston (or grind down any protrusions). my biggest concern would be the valves and seats after that. The damage definitely isn't pretty or ideal, but I know we've all seen worse.
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I don't think I can grind down this damage

<a href="https://ibb.co/HHJ9dx0"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/3CJPzMw/20200104-224609.jpg" alt="20200104-224609" border="0"></a>

I checked the turbine wheel and its not damaged, nothing made it out of the chamber luckily. Ill tear the head apart later and check the seats and valve faces, but likly just use it as practice. Luckily I had a 95 b230ft Ide been waiting to put in so I dont have to make any of these parts work.

Time for more boost:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Rpf6bqX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/3y2Fdnx/20200104-223646.jpg" alt="20200104-223646" border="0"></a>
 
gsellstr said:
Yup, take it to a machine shop, easily reusable. Jump in on the valve GB, throw some nice valves and a little porting time into it as well, wake it up. Sorry, shameless plug for the valve GB going now...

That sucks man, glad you got a little time on it first. Definitely need more fuel for that setup though, 42's on that setup is pretty small.
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I'll have to checkout the GB for those, I've seen it but never been in ready to buy them, sure am now.

80lb injectors should be here soon? Ordered on the 28th from Toronto, UPS ground without tracking so Ive been checking the mailbox every time a truck passes.
 
That one tried to warn you.

Opportunity knocks..... Forged pistons and H-Beam rods are the clever way to solve weak stock bits.

Better engine management with more charge cooling will do wonders for keeping it happy while making lots of power in the future.
 
JohnLane said:
That one tried to warn you.

Opportunity knocks..... Forged pistons and H-Beam rods are the clever way to solve weak stock bits.

Better engine management with more charge cooling will do wonders for keeping it happy while making lots of power in the future.
Click to expand...

Your signature suits this recommendation. Definitely thinking about building a motor next time, but I'm hoping a late model ft will do better then a skinny rod with 300k on the clock. Charged air temps are pretty low with my new intercooler, but not running tiny injectors and waiting more then 3 miles after reconnecting the battery (ECU relearn) may help this one survive
 
James M said:
Your signature suits this recommendation. Definitely thinking about building a motor next time, but I'm hoping a late model ft will do better then a skinny rod with 300k on the clock. Charged air temps are pretty low with my new intercooler, but not running tiny injectors and waiting more then 3 miles after reconnecting the battery (ECU relearn) may help this one survive
Click to expand...

It?s the loose but behind the steering wheel
 
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