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Old 11-17-2022, 03:13 PM   #1
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Default 1998 244 Turbo mystery car leans out

This is my first post here so let me know if I'm in the wrong section or something.

Me and some friend bought a 1988 Volvo 244 "rally car" to fix up and race. We got the car running but are having trouble with it trying to blow up once it gets to around 3500 in neutral or 2500 under load. It backfires like crazy at those RPMs and we think it is because it is running very lean at that point. Fuel pumps, fuel pressure, and fuel relay are all good (fixed or replaced). The wiring is all hardwired ie. rewired by someone with minimal electrical knowledge and reuses bits and pieces of the OEM harness. We think the car came Na and had a turbo added on by a previous owner, it also is supposedly re-tuned for 91 octanes.

UNKNOWNS
-What tune is on it (what it all does)?
-Are fuel injectors also tuned?
-If it has an ignition ballast/resistor
-If MAF is bad or just everything in the car
-The best way to check for a vacuum leak

KNOWNS
-Fuel pumps are good
-Spark plugs/coil good
-Fuel pressure is good
-Has replacement 200cc 16 ohm (low impedance) injectors
-Has some pressure in crankcase (We think PCV is somewhat clogged)


QUESTIONS
-If the ballast is supposed to be at the passenger side between the firewall and strut tower and we can't find it. What wires should be going to it in case it was moved?

-Is there a tune that would change the injectors currently in it so they can pump out enough for a turbo? (Turbo OEM needs 320 I think) Would that also change them from needing a ballast?

-Could a clogged PCV cause it to lean out so much at 2500 under load??

-Out hall sensor looks alright but it was ducttaped together a little bit... Could that be a reason why it leans out?

-Any ideas on anything?

Last edited by TerraceRacingDevelopment; 11-17-2022 at 03:50 PM..
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Old 11-17-2022, 03:48 PM   #2
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A handy thing to know is if it has LH2.2, LH2.4 or a standalone. Take a look up into the passenger front footwell and look up the numbers on the LH and EZK modules, people refer to the versions by the last 3 numbers, you will probably find a 5xx or 9xx on the LH and 1xx or 2xx for the EZK. It really does sound like a fuel delivery issue. I've had 3 240 main pumps fail, all left the car "driveable" but had poor drivability. The pre-filter in the tank fails and junk gets sucked up into the main pump and causes all kinds of stuff to happen. I've even revived dying main pumps by running them back and forth in bucket of diesel, and low and behold it cleared it out. This was just to get a friend's car back on the road, I'd say it was definitely on borrowed time after that.

The injectors are measured by what type of impedance/resistance they have (low Z or high Z) and the color, but knowing what engine management you have and if the wiring got the turbo's resistor packs needed for the turbo redblock injectors on an NA wiring.
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Old 11-17-2022, 04:30 PM   #3
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it has a jetronic 0 280 000 518. What exactly does that mean? are there any big differences between the units? For the fuel pumps: We replaced the in-tank one because it was busted and re-soldered the fuel relay which had fried because of the pump failing. The main pump under the car, we can hear it pretty loud and have fuel pressure so we crossed that off as a culprit but we could check to incase it isn't pumping enough volume but is pumping enough pressure. When we rev the engine, the fuel pressure goes up a couple of PSI from about 39 ish to 42. I had read that 38 was the operating pressure for the fuel pressure regulator so hopefully, those numbers sound alright. Since the pressure goes up when revving I was thinking maybe the injectors arent pumping enough to keep up with the increase in fuel.

Also the injectors in bosch 289150734 which I looked up and has the right specs for a Na engine (ours is turbo)
The ICM part number is 1346107- Not sure if that plays into anything...
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Old 11-17-2022, 04:43 PM   #4
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Well... first thing is that's the part number for the NA 240 Chrysler ignition. You have an '85-'86 740 Turbo LH module so you should have a EZ117K box against the firewall in the passenger footwell if it was wired right. Lot's of wacky stuff here but before going any further you should get the wiring sorted. Dave Barton sells conversion harnesses for an LH 2.2 + EZK harness for either Turbo or NA 240 (when using the 740 EZK) if you don't want to do it yourself. The 740's both NA ('85-'88) and Turbo ('85-'89) use a different ignition controller for LH2.2 versus the 240, so you'll need to blend a 240 LH2.2 harness and the 740 EZK harness together, or go microsquirt, speeduino etc.
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Old 11-17-2022, 05:13 PM   #5
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To clarify, is the jetronic box the turbo LH module I have, and is it considered an LH 2.2, and is the ECU? Then should there be a EZ117k box behind that and what does the EZ117k do? Does the NA 240 Chrysler ignition I have work and is it the ICU? I'm assuming won't work with a turbo. Correct?

If I don't have the EZ117 do I get one or do other ones work?

For the harness would I need a full harness or just the ignition harness? If i were to blend the two harnesses together I need to use the connector for the EZK off a NA '85-'88 or turbo '85-'89 and connect it with the rest a harness for an 240 LH2.2? is it obvious if I have that 240 harness in the car currently? how do I tell?

Sorry for so many questions, very new to volvos
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Old 11-17-2022, 05:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerraceRacingDevelopment View Post
To clarify, is the jetronic box the turbo LH module I have, and is it considered an LH 2.2, and is the ECU?
More or less, yes. There are 2 ECU systems, the fuel is controlled by the "LH module" which you have the turbo LH2.2 version. Your 240 was originally LH2.2.

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Then should there be a EZ117k box behind that and what does the EZ117k do? Does the NA 240 Chrysler ignition I have work and is it the ICU? I'm assuming won't work with a turbo. Correct?
The other side of the ECU system is an ignition control module. For whatever reason, LH2.2 240's use a Chrysler unit, and 740's use a Bosch unit, often referred to as an EZK module in Bosch form. The EZK has a knock sensor, and since no Turbos came with a Chrysler system, you need the EZK from a turbo car to make a turbo swapped LH2.2 240 run atleast anything more than just idle.

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If I don't have the EZ117 do I get one or do other ones work?
Post in the for sale/wanted section, or find a '85-'89 740t or 760t parts car. The EZK won't come even close to plugging into your existing harness, you will need to make or buy a harness.

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Originally Posted by TerraceRacingDevelopment View Post
For the harness would I need a full harness or just the ignition harness? If i were to blend the two harnesses together I need to use the connector for the EZK off a NA '85-'88 or turbo '85-'89 and connect it with the rest a harness for an 240 LH2.2? is it obvious if I have that 240 harness in the car currently? how do I tell?
The LH2.2/EZ117K system found on 740's will not swap into a 240 without major work. If you strip back the wiring, the LH and EZK do tie together, what's common practice is to take a 740 LH2.2 engine harness and a 240 LH2.2 harness, and join them so you can add the EZK system into the way the 240 system is routed. Too much to mention here about that, but you would need more than just the connector, do some research about the wiring for a "+t lh2.2 240"
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:23 PM   #7
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First off, welcome to turbobricks!

What's your skill level and what sorts of projects have you done in the past? What are your plans for the car and what's your time/$$$ budget?

If you don't have a copy already, the Bentley 240 Repair Manual is a great resource all in one place. You can also find "greenbooks", the factory Volvo manuals, floating around the web, including ozvolvo.org/archive.

There's many years of great info here, but the local search engine sux - it won't do 3-character or less terms. You're much better off using google with " site:turbobricks.com" added to the end of the search words.

On here, it's common to take a NA redblock engine, i.e. B230F, and add the factory turbo parts. It's called a "+T". The resulting engine is running at higher compression than a true factory turbo engine, i.e. B230FT, due to NA vs dished pistons.

Your car started off with a B230F engine, a LH2.2 NA ECU fuel computer (in the passenger footwell) and a Chrysler NA ignition computer (in the engine compartment), with a 2.5bar fuel pressure regulator and ~150cc/min @2.5bar injectors. The similar factory turbo version was only available in a 740 -- B230FT engine, LH2.2 Turbo ECU, EZ117K Ignition box, 3bar fuel pressure regulator and ~300cc/min @3bar injectors. [I may not have all these details correct.]

I think your injectors are bosch 0280150734, which are ~215cc/min @3bar. Your 0280000518 ECU shows up as a Turbo LH2.2 ECU - see https://dokumen.tips/download/link/v...st-bosch-lh-22. This combination will result in ~2/3 of the correct fueling (running 215cc injectors with a turbo ECU that's expecting 300cc injectors).

Note the original NA injectors are high impedance (~12? ohms each), the original turbo injectors are low impedance (~3? ohms each) but the turbo cars add a small aluminum cage with 4 ~10ohm ballast resistors to convert the low impedance injectors into high impedance, so that it doesn't burn out the ECU injector driver. There are common high-impedance turbo injectors available that swap in without needing the resistor pack.

The NA Chrysler ignition box is usually swapped out for a turbo EZK box, using either an adapted harness section from a 740 or an aftermarket conversion harness:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382
https://www.prancingmoose.com/harnes...ml#EZKversion1

You can adjust the ignition timing by rotating the distributor. This might let you use the NA Chrysler ignition with a little bit of boost, but swapping to the EZ117K is much better.

Edit: I forgot, there's a weird "flametrap" in the hose from the breather box to the air filter box that gets clogged up. You can check there first (the turbo cars, due to turbo between breather box and air box, don't even need the flametrap). If you remove the black plastic breather box (under the back of the intake manifold), be very careful not to disturb the black drain hose going into the block. If you pull this hose out, you need to drop the engine and remove the oil pan to get to the now empty hose clamp.

-Bob
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Last edited by bobxyz; 11-17-2022 at 08:30 PM..
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Old 11-18-2022, 04:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERDRIVE View Post
More or less, yes. There are 2 ECU systems, the fuel is controlled by the "LH module" which you have the turbo LH2.2 version. Your 240 was originally LH2.2.



The other side of the ECU system is an ignition control module. For whatever reason, LH2.2 240's use a Chrysler unit, and 740's use a Bosch unit, often referred to as an EZK module in Bosch form. The EZK has a knock sensor, and since no Turbos came with a Chrysler system, you need the EZK from a turbo car to make a turbo swapped LH2.2 240 run atleast anything more than just idle.



Post in the for sale/wanted section, or find a '85-'89 740t or 760t parts car. The EZK won't come even close to plugging into your existing harness, you will need to make or buy a harness.



The LH2.2/EZ117K system found on 740's will not swap into a 240 without major work. If you strip back the wiring, the LH and EZK do tie together, what's common practice is to take a 740 LH2.2 engine harness and a 240 LH2.2 harness, and join them so you can add the EZK system into the way the 240 system is routed. Too much to mention here about that, but you would need more than just the connector, do some research about the wiring for a "+t lh2.2 240"
Thanks for all the great info!

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Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
First off, welcome to turbobricks!

What's your skill level and what sorts of projects have you done in the past? What are your plans for the car and what's your time/$$$ budget?

If you don't have a copy already, the Bentley 240 Repair Manual is a great resource all in one place. You can also find "greenbooks", the factory Volvo manuals, floating around the web, including ozvolvo.org/archive.

There's many years of great info here, but the local search engine sux - it won't do 3-character or less terms. You're much better off using google with " site:turbobricks.com" added to the end of the search words.

On here, it's common to take a NA redblock engine, i.e. B230F, and add the factory turbo parts. It's called a "+T". The resulting engine is running at higher compression than a true factory turbo engine, i.e. B230FT, due to NA vs dished pistons.

Your car started off with a B230F engine, a LH2.2 NA ECU fuel computer (in the passenger footwell) and a Chrysler NA ignition computer (in the engine compartment), with a 2.5bar fuel pressure regulator and ~150cc/min @2.5bar injectors. The similar factory turbo version was only available in a 740 -- B230FT engine, LH2.2 Turbo ECU, EZ117K Ignition box, 3bar fuel pressure regulator and ~300cc/min @3bar injectors. [I may not have all these details correct.]

I think your injectors are bosch 0280150734, which are ~215cc/min @3bar. Your 0280000518 ECU shows up as a Turbo LH2.2 ECU - see https://dokumen.tips/download/link/v...st-bosch-lh-22. This combination will result in ~2/3 of the correct fueling (running 215cc injectors with a turbo ECU that's expecting 300cc injectors).

Note the original NA injectors are high impedance (~12? ohms each), the original turbo injectors are low impedance (~3? ohms each) but the turbo cars add a small aluminum cage with 4 ~10ohm ballast resistors to convert the low impedance injectors into high impedance, so that it doesn't burn out the ECU injector driver. There are common high-impedance turbo injectors available that swap in without needing the resistor pack.

The NA Chrysler ignition box is usually swapped out for a turbo EZK box, using either an adapted harness section from a 740 or an aftermarket conversion harness:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382
https://www.prancingmoose.com/harnes...ml#EZKversion1

You can adjust the ignition timing by rotating the distributor. This might let you use the NA Chrysler ignition with a little bit of boost, but swapping to the EZ117K is much better.

Edit: I forgot, there's a weird "flametrap" in the hose from the breather box to the air filter box that gets clogged up. You can check there first (the turbo cars, due to turbo between breather box and air box, don't even need the flametrap). If you remove the black plastic breather box (under the back of the intake manifold), be very careful not to disturb the black drain hose going into the block. If you pull this hose out, you need to drop the engine and remove the oil pan to get to the now empty hose clamp.

-Bob
Thanks for the warm welcome! I've worked on a bunch of random projects and so have my friends who I am working with to fix up this Volvo. Together we're pretty well suited to work on any part of the car. Hoping to keep the car as budget as possible, we bought it for $900 and have only put in maybe $200 to get it running and safe from parts at our local junkyard. We want to do everything we can ourselves to keep it the cheapest. We tried adjusting the timing a little bit by ear last night after reading your post and weren't able to get it to run too much better. The flame trap you're talking about was noticed a couple of days ago and after some research, they create pressure into the crankcase if blocked (correct me if I'm wrong). We will need to pull that off and clean it but we didn't know it doesn't need one if it has a turbo. If we were to remove it do we plug a hole going into the block (the one you said is a bad day if we pull it out)?



After looking at our junkyards near us we only had one candidate for an ignition module that works with our turbo (a 1990 NA 740). That car ended up having a bosch 0 227 400 140 which I believe is a EZ116k (is that right?). The only way to make that work would be to get a new ICU (box in the passenger footwell)? And if we did that we would also need the distributor without a hall sensor, and a crank position sensor as well as a lot of wiring to connect it all right?
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Old 11-18-2022, 05:44 PM   #9
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Oops, I should have been clearer. For the flametrap, the turbo engines don't need the flametrap itself - the perforated metal or plastic disk that prevents an intake misfire flame from getting to the crankcase vapors. You still need the breather box and hose to pre-turbo intake. Since it's the flametrap disk that clogs first, you could just remove it and put the housing back in place.

You need to figure out your injectors. For a 2.3L turbo engine, you need at least ~300cc/min injectors to provide enough fuel under peak boost. The stock turbo ECU expects ~300cc/min injectors and will run really lean if ~200cc/min injectors are installed.

I don't know if anyone retunes the LH2.2 ECUs for higher than factory boost and bigger still injectors. I'd start with ~300cc injectors and see if that fixes your poor running. If you search around here, or ask, I'm sure someone will remember the part numbers for drop-in ~300cc high-impedance injectors. (The factory ones are low impedance and need an added resistor pack.)

For a turbo EZ117K box, post in wanted and see what folks have in their parts collections. I think they'll fit, with some padding, in a small usps priority mail box. You'll still need to figure out the conversion wiring.

Do you know when the car was last running well and what's happened to it since then?
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Old 11-18-2022, 06:11 PM   #10
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Oops, I should have been clearer. For the flametrap, the turbo engines don't need the flametrap itself - the perforated metal or plastic disk that prevents an intake misfire flame from getting to the crankcase vapors. You still need the breather box and hose to pre-turbo intake. Since it's the flametrap disk that clogs first, you could just remove it and put the housing back in place.

You need to figure out your injectors. For a 2.3L turbo engine, you need at least ~300cc/min injectors to provide enough fuel under peak boost. The stock turbo ECU expects ~300cc/min injectors and will run really lean if ~200cc/min injectors are installed.

I don't know if anyone retunes the LH2.2 ECUs for higher than factory boost and bigger still injectors. I'd start with ~300cc injectors and see if that fixes your poor running. If you search around here, or ask, I'm sure someone will remember the part numbers for drop-in ~300cc high-impedance injectors. (The factory ones are low impedance and need an added resistor pack.)

For a turbo EZ117K box, post in wanted and see what folks have in their parts collections. I think they'll fit, with some padding, in a small usps priority mail box. You'll still need to figure out the conversion wiring.

Do you know when the car was last running well and what's happened to it since then?
Is the flametrap disk supposed to be within the actual plastic box or is it supposed to be on top of the tube that comes up from that box. I can't seem to find a good clear picture on the internet of the box but, on mine it has a tube coming up from that and then a thing that looks like this on top

and then a definitely not OEM con filter on the big side and No vacuum hose off the smallest outlet. Should there be a vacuum hose on there and where does it go? also is the disk supposed to be in the box at the bottom or at the top of that thing from the pic?

Yeah, get injectors for sure, ill do some research and find which ones work.

No clue the last time it was running well. It can idle well currently but there is so much bad wiring (twisted together wires, duct tape, blue tape, chunks of metal as fuses) that I would assume before whoever did that. Apparently, it used to be rallied in our town and as once was a lemons race car but I'm assuming it was NA during all that and then sold with a turbo and some people did some things.
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Old 11-18-2022, 07:36 PM   #11
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Select 240 family and flip through the pictures here - there are a couple different styles: https://www.ipdusa.com/Catalog/Index?searchwords=flame

The flame trap disk is about the diameter of a nickel, and can be removed from the housing piece(s). There's a short hose that goes from the breather box to the flame trap housing, then a long ~5/8" hose that goes to the air cleaner (or a nipple on the turbo intake hose elbow on factory turbos). The small nipple in your picture can be blocked off for turbo engines. You could run a hose all the way from the breather box to the air box/turbo intake hose and skip the flame trap pieces. But the flame trap pieces do help angle the hose over towards the air cleaner.

If you're on a budget and have some time, I'd leave the wiring alone (ugh) and try to get it running with the existing Chrysler ignition box. It should be OK until you get into the boosted region. At that point, you'll need to figure out if you want to invest in good LH2.2 wiring and a EZ117K box. Adding a wideband O2 sensor is always a good idea for mod'd engines.

The alternative would be to convert to turbo LH2.4 and a EZ116K box, which is used on all the 940 series turbos (much more common in the junkyards than the early LH2.2 740 turbos). For this, you can use a good used LH2.4 wiring harness from a NA 240 (up to ~92, the ~93 240 harnesses are harder to adapt). The bigger issue is that LH2.4 needs a 60-2 toothed flywheel/flexplate, which means pulling the engine.

On the plus side, there's lots more options for performance chips for LH2.4/EZ116K if that's where you're eventually heading. LH2.2 is pretty limited for tuning, and replacement parts are getting harder to find.
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Old 11-18-2022, 08:44 PM   #12
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After looking at our junkyards near us we only had one candidate for an ignition module that works with our turbo (a 1990 NA 740). That car ended up having a bosch 0 227 400 140 which I believe is a EZ116k (is that right?). The only way to make that work would be to get a new ICU (box in the passenger footwell)? And if we did that we would also need the distributor without a hall sensor, and a crank position sensor as well as a lot of wiring to connect it all right?
A 1990 740, na and turbo, will have LH2.4 Jetronic injection (or Bendix Regina on NA but we're getting ahead of ourselves). You currently have what seems like a completely stock LH2.2 Jetronic 240 setup with a turbo LH module plugged in. The ICU you're calling it is what the EZK is. the EZ116K is the LH2.4 version. If retaining the LH2.2 system you're going to look for an EZ117K from a 1985-'89 740 turbo. If updating your Chrysler ignition to EZK, you will retain the distributor and most wiring. There is no crank position sensor on an LH2.2 car. Like bobxyz said, LH2.4 is a better more common system but you will need to remove the motor to add the crank position sensor on the back of the block. If you're just getting this back on the road for as little as possible, making the jump the LH2.4 injection is probably a bigger job than you want to do right now. You should be able to get the car to run "well" out of boost with the right high Z injectors from an 850 turbo. The turbo rwd cars had a resistor pack in the wiring harness, NA cars did not, so when plugging in the turbo LH module into the NA harness, you can't also use the rwd turbo injectors unless you add the resistor pack, but the way to get around this is using 850 turbo orange injectors which have a higher impedance. I haven't ever done that personally so maybe my info is old or incorrect but it's something like the 850 turbo injectors. Now you will have no knock sensor and an "ICU" that doesn't know there's added cylinder pressure so it won't be happy in boost. You may also have the wrong fuel pressure regulator, easy check. bobxyz did a good job of hitting a lot of the bases.
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Old 11-21-2022, 03:09 AM   #13
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Thanks for all the info y'all, I ordered some red injectors that fit and are high impedance with a little over 300cc so that should fix that issue. I contacted a junkyard that has a ezk unit 0 261 201 012 which according to Dave Barton's page should be a turbo ez117k that works with a turbo. If bobbyxyz and that website are correct (https://dokumen.tips/download/link/v...st-bosch-lh-22) then my lh2.2 should also be turbo friendly.

I think I will order the ezk box from the junkyard, is there a specific ignition module that works with each ezk module? Also does anyone know if wiring from a 1990 740 NA will work for build my own wiring harness? That car had a ez116k and came with a ignition module, I'm not sure which one and can't check currently but would like to know if I can use that harness and ignition module or if I need to buy separate ones from another junkyard or online
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Old 11-21-2022, 03:51 PM   #14
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The EZ116K box goes with a LH2.4 ECU, and the EZ117K goes with a LH2.2 ECU. Both the 116 and 117 EZK boxes use the same 25-pin connector, but the pinout and wiring is a little different (hall distributor pickup versus VR CPS sensor, diags, EGR, etc.). The LH2.2 vs. LH2.4 ECU connectors are much different (25 vs 35 pins).

If you're very good at wiring and diagrams, you could re-pin and adapt a EZ116K harness (from a LH2.4 car) to EZ117K. If you follow this route, you'd need the EZ116K sub-harness from a LH2.4 740, or the whole engine harness from a LH2.4 240 (the 240 harness is all taped together, so it's not easy to just buy the ignition part). Before doing this, I'd post in Wanted and see if anyone already has a EZ117K conversion harness from a 740T.

For the ignition module, both use the standard Bosch "124" module (0227100124) on an aluminum heatsink block. Pre-covid, they were cheap new ($38 from FCPeuro), but are now pricey - I don't know if it's covid, or if the Bosch ones are no longer being made.

[this is sold, but the pictures are still there - http://forums.turbobricks.com ]/showthread.php?t=324928 ]
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Old 11-21-2022, 04:03 PM   #15
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The EZ116K box goes with a LH2.4 ECU, and the EZ117K goes with a LH2.2 ECU. Both the 116 and 117 EZK boxes use the same 25-pin connector, but the pinout and wiring is a little different (hall distributor pickup versus VR CPS sensor, diags, EGR, etc.). The LH2.2 vs. LH2.4 ECU connectors are much different (25 vs 35 pins).

If you're very good at wiring and diagrams, you could re-pin and adapt a EZ116K harness (from a LH2.4 car) to EZ117K. If you follow this route, you'd need the EZ116K sub-harness from a LH2.4 740, or the whole engine harness from a LH2.4 240 (the 240 harness is all taped together, so it's not easy to just buy the ignition part). Before doing this, I'd post in Wanted and see if anyone already has a EZ117K conversion harness from a 740T.

For the ignition module, both use the standard Bosch "124" module (0227100124) on an aluminum heatsink block. Pre-covid, they were cheap new ($38 from FCPeuro), but are now pricey - I don't know if it's covid, or if the Bosch ones are no longer being made.

[this is sold, but the pictures are still there - http://forums.turbobricks.com ]/showthread.php?t=324928 ]
Sorry I think my last post was confusing bc I forgot to mention a few things... I found a EZ117K for a turbo 740 from a junkyard for sale online and they also sell the ignition module but the guy said something about them being specific per vehicle and wasn't able to clarify. I will have a turbo LH2.2, EZ117K, wiring from a EZ116K (which is compatible according to Dave Barton's page). I also have an ignition module that came with the wiring harness but I'm not sure if it will be compatible with my setup. The number for that is 0 227 100 124 and it's from a NA 1990 Volvo 740. If it works I will just use what I have and buy the EZ117K, if it doesn't I will find one that does work.
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Old 11-21-2022, 04:11 PM   #16
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...snip... wiring from a EZ116K (which is compatible according to Dave Barton's page).
It's not compatible without rewiring/re-pinning. What's the link to Dave's page?
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Old 11-21-2022, 04:22 PM   #17
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It's not compatible without rewiring/re-pinning. What's the link to Dave's page?
I was mistaken it was by this guide "https://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100448"

I might be misreading it but on the first post I thought I was saying any 740 works for the harness. How intensive is the extent of repining and wiring compared to rewiring with a ez117k harness?
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Old 11-21-2022, 08:29 PM   #18
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I'll look around and see if I have notes for re-pinning/re-wiring a EZ116K harness to connect a EZ117K box to a 240 LH2.2 ECU. Where are you getting your EZ116K harness - model & year?

I'd guess that the article you referenced meant to say that the EZK harness from any 740 with a LH2.2 would work.
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:52 AM   #19
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I'll look around and see if I have notes for re-pinning/re-wiring a EZ116K harness to connect a EZ117K box to a 240 LH2.2 ECU. Where are you getting your EZ116K harness - model & year?

I'd guess that the article you referenced meant to say that the EZK harness from any 740 with a LH2.2 would work.
The harness is from a NA 1990 Volvo 740. Do you know if the ignition module itself, the small box usually on driver side fender wall in the engine bay would work from an 1990 NA 740 connected to an EZ117K? I got the harness and module from the same junkyard car but can't find if the ignition modules are interchangeable.
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Old 11-22-2022, 01:52 PM   #20
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The harness is from a NA 1990 Volvo 740.
Some NA 1990 740's don't have Bosch fuel injection, they have Bendix Regina.

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Originally Posted by TerraceRacingDevelopment View Post
Do you know if the ignition module itself, the small box usually on driver side fender wall in the engine bay would work from an 1990 NA 740 connected to an EZ117K?
The EZK (as you're calling ignition module) on a 7/900 is under the steering column in the passenger compartment, on a 240 it clips to the inside firewall on the passenger side. I think either an EZ116K or EZ117K plug connector is physically the same, wiring may have a different pinout.

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I got the harness and module from the same junkyard car but can't find if the ignition modules are interchangeable.
You need a turbo EZ117K, A Bosch LH jetronic 1990 740 non turbo will have an EZ116K in NA tune.
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:09 PM   #21
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I think you're OK with your turbo '518 LH2.2 ECU, your turbo '012 EZ117, and the '124 ignition module. I couldn't find a write-up on converting a EZ116K harness to EZ117K, so I wrote up the below info. Let me know if you try it and how it works out. Better still, take some pictures and add the info to the older conversion thread.

Normally, a 740 EZ117K sub-harness from a LH2.2 740 is used to convert a 240 from Chrysler to EZK ignition - see: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382

If a 740 LH2.2 donor harness isn't available, it should be possible to re-pin a more recent EZ116K harness from a LH2.4 740 instead. I haven't tried this myself, so buyer beware.

How to change a 740 EZ116K (LH2.4) sub-harness to a EZ117K (LH2.2) harness for Chrysler to EZ117K ignition conversion

Untape and open up the 25-pin EZK connector - picture shows probing a pin, not pin removal (which is done from the connector face)


To easily remove the pins without damage, you'll need a pin removal tool - just a simple single thin rectangular blade one is fine. You might get away with a flattened paperclip end, or a "T-pin" if you're broke and really desperate.

In listed order, de-pin or move the below pins/wires from the EZ116K connector. Go by the pin number if the wire colors don't match (but post a followup first).
de-pin 1 YEL-RED diag box
de-pin 3 BRN-WHT CEL
de-pin 5 BRN battery +12v
de-pin 14 BLK ground
de-pin 15 RED-GRN EGR
de-pin 22 YEL-BLK EGR Temp
move pin 2 RED-BLK to pin 15
move pin 4 GRY-RED to pin 9 on cars with A/C; on cars without A/C, just de-pin it
move pin 10 RED to pin 4 (may need to cut back hall cable insulation to free up wire length)
move pin 11 BLK to pin 10
move pin 23 BLU to pin 24

When done, you should have the below pinout, which matchs the pins/colors in the main EZ117K conversion thread:
1 NC
2 NC
3 NC
4 RED hall sensor "+"
5 NC
6 BLU switched +12v (also positive terminal on coil, and powerstage pin 4)
7 ORG TPS 3 idle sw
8 YEL load signal from LH2.2 ECU-24
9 GRY-RED A/C compressor on (if you have A/C, empty otherwise)
10 BLK hall sensor "-" (this wire is the bare braided shield on the hall cable run through black heatshrink)
11 NC
12 BLK knock sensor (this wire is the bare braided shield on the knock cable run through black heatshrink)
13 GRN knock sensor
14 NC
15 RED-BLK knock signal to LH2.2 ECU-12
16 GRY (may change to thick BLK wire) spark signal to powerstage pin 5
17 YEL-GRY rpm out to LH2.2 ECU-1
18 NC
19 NC
20 BRN ground to intake manifold (and powerstage pin 2)
21 NC
22 NC
23 NC
24 BLU hall sensor "O" signal
25 NC

Copied from conversion thread:
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:18 PM   #22
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I think you're OK with your turbo '518 LH2.2 ECU, your turbo '012 EZ117, and the '124 ignition module. I couldn't find a write-up on converting a EZ116K harness to EZ117K, so I wrote up the below info. Let me know if you try it and how it works out. Better still, take some pictures and add the info to the older conversion thread.

Normally, a 740 EZ117K sub-harness from a LH2.2 740 is used to convert a 240 from Chrysler to EZK ignition - see: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382

If a 740 LH2.2 donor harness isn't available, it should be possible to re-pin a more recent EZ116K harness from a LH2.4 740 instead. I haven't tried this myself, so buyer beware.

How to change a 740 EZ116K (LH2.4) sub-harness to a EZ117K (LH2.2) harness for Chrysler to EZ117K ignition conversion

Untape and open up the 25-pin EZK connector - picture shows probing a pin, not pin removal (which is done from the connector face)


To easily remove the pins without damage, you'll need a pin removal tool - just a simple single thin rectangular blade one is fine. You might get away with a flattened paperclip end, or a "T-pin" if you're broke and really desperate.

In listed order, de-pin or move the below pins/wires from the EZ116K connector. Go by the pin number if the wire colors don't match (but post a followup first).
de-pin 1 YEL-RED diag box
de-pin 3 BRN-WHT CEL
de-pin 5 BRN battery +12v
de-pin 14 BLK ground
de-pin 15 RED-GRN EGR
de-pin 22 YEL-BLK EGR Temp
move pin 2 RED-BLK to pin 15
move pin 4 GRY-RED to pin 9 on cars with A/C; on cars without A/C, just de-pin it
move pin 10 RED to pin 4 (may need to cut back hall cable insulation to free up wire length)
move pin 11 BLK to pin 10
move pin 23 BLU to pin 24

When done, you should have the below pinout, which matchs the pins/colors in the main EZ117K conversion thread:
1 NC
2 NC
3 NC
4 RED hall sensor "+"
5 NC
6 BLU switched +12v (also positive terminal on coil, and powerstage pin 4)
7 ORG TPS 3 idle sw
8 YEL load signal from LH2.2 ECU-24
9 GRY-RED A/C compressor on (if you have A/C, empty otherwise)
10 BLK hall sensor "-" (this wire is the bare braided shield on the hall cable run through black heatshrink)
11 NC
12 BLK knock sensor (this wire is the bare braided shield on the knock cable run through black heatshrink)
13 GRN knock sensor
14 NC
15 RED-BLK knock signal to LH2.2 ECU-12
16 GRY (may change to thick BLK wire) spark signal to powerstage pin 5
17 YEL-GRY rpm out to LH2.2 ECU-1
18 NC
19 NC
20 BRN ground to intake manifold (and powerstage pin 2)
21 NC
22 NC
23 NC
24 BLU hall sensor "O" signal
25 NC

Copied from conversion thread:
Thank you so much for the write-up, this for real helps out a lot. Everything is ordered or in shipping and I am away for thanksgiving so I can't start on any of it yet. When I get back by the end of the week, I will take photos and notes and start the conversion and post my findings with the other conversion thread you mentioned. Thank you again for doing your research as well as everyone else for their work!
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Old 11-28-2022, 06:40 PM   #23
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We "finished" up all the conversion work today but can't get spark to the plugs. The instructions for repinning seemed correct, colors were spot on besides the grey wire which runs to the power stage at pin 5. This wire is grey but it is covered by a large black wire and has the copper running around a separate insulated wire within that bulky black wire. You can tell the wire is grey from the end new the power stage where it pokes out at is grey. The only other problem we ran into was the hall sensor connector being slightly different. The actual plastic connector is slightly different and needed to have the pins removed and placed into the original plastic connector.

Now the problems. We think we wired the hall sensor correctly but are not sure. We tried with the red going to 1, blue to 2, and black to 3 as the transplant hall sensor connector was.

This didn't work as we were getting solid power to the coil positive BUT also getting solid voltage to the negative terminal instead of fluctuation. We replaced the cap and rotor and it wasn't either of them.
BTW the original hall connector looked as shown below:



We then tried swapping the black and the red because we found a diagram deep on the internet of the opposite order as shown below:


The hall sensor connector on the distributor looks as shown tho idk if this matters:


Does anyone know the correct wiring for the hall sensor? Also What else could stop it from sparking to the plugs? We Think all the wires are pinned as described above and by the thread https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382 .This is the wiring to our coil:

The green is our aftermarket tach, red with white stripe comes from power stage PN 1, blue goes from power stage PN 4 to the coil positive and to the EZK box i believe PN 6, Lastly the other red which is on the positive is a switched power from our dash which was used in the previous coil as the power in (we might remove it if the EZK needs to be the only power in)
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Old 11-28-2022, 08:01 PM   #24
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My old 740 LH 2.2 wiring was Hall/Ezk Black (shield) 1/10, Blue 2/24, Red 3/4
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Old 11-28-2022, 09:08 PM   #25
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Pictures aren't working for me.

If you look at the hall sensor connector on the disti, I think it will have embossed text of "+ O -". + goes to red/switched +12v, - goes to black/ground, O goes to blue/ezk-24 input.
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