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Old 11-08-2022, 09:15 PM   #1
the_hairy_baboon
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Default Rear Trailing Arm install problems

I'm replacing my trailing arm bushing (1983 245). Any problems for the bushing swap itself I will put in a different thread.

My problem is getting the trailing arm back on. Greenbook Volvo directions say to attach the front mounting point first, then do the rear, then raise the jack to guide the spring up.

Well.....
I got the front on, but the spring won't let me push the arm around as needed to get the bolt through the rear bushing. If I remove the spring entirely, then there's not a way to get the spring in once the trailing arm is connected up. I'm also struggling in general with aligning everything. I had raised the rear high enough to not have wheels touching when I removed everything, did I need to get it high enough that with both sides springs released and shocks disconnected the tires still can't touch the ground?

I also tried disconnecting the front of the arm and doing rear first, but even then, the spring was in the way and I couldn't get the bolt through.

I think I may also have to remove a portion of the exhaust to allow the axle to lower as far as it actually might want to do.
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Old 11-08-2022, 09:29 PM   #2
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The suspension should be able to flex as far as it’ll go to make it easier. Try using a set of spring compressors to help get the springs back in, connect the control arm to the car, then to the axle, then connect the shock and install the spring
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Old 11-08-2022, 10:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
I'm also struggling in general with aligning everything. I had raised the rear high enough to not have wheels touching when I removed everything, did I need to get it high enough that with both sides springs released and shocks disconnected the tires still can't touch the ground?
take the wheels off
unbolt spring perches, install springs and perches,
bolt them up
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Old 11-09-2022, 07:33 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by apachechef View Post
take the wheels off
unbolt spring perches, install springs and perches,
bolt them up
Ah, ever the nuance. At least on B21FT, the exhaust goes under the right side axle and effectively props up the axle. And since my exhaust is so rusty, there's not an easy way to take it off to let the axle fully lower. So because I had started on right side, I didn't have enough clearance for the spring.

So. Recovery process steps. First thing was to take advantage of the fact that the left wheel was touching ground because of the cant of the axle while I was mucking with stuff. Loosened those lugs, jacked up axle, removed wheel. Since I had removed the lower shock bolt, the axle lowered enough where the spring came out easily, as per apachechef's comment.
Then I removed the right trailing arm completely, connected up the front bolt first, then shimmied the arm and axle so the rear bushing bolt would go in. Bracing my head inside the wheel well I managed to manually squish the spring enough to get it aligned to be bolted down/fit over the upper cone thing. Then I could use a jack on the differential to work both sides up until I could connect the shock bolts. They're nominally supposed to go in from the outside, shoulder through the shock, then the spacer and then nut, but the left side bolt refused to get its shoulder through the hole, so I had to slide the bolt in from the inside which makes the sway bar refitting more of a pain.
Sway bar goes back on by first sliding the mini bolt through the first holes, then sliding it up into the alignment clip, then getting the shock bolts pushed through it.
Now tighten stuff by hand, drop car, shimmy it, torque to spec.

I think I destroyed the inner race of the new rear bushing though, instead of the stock one having two sets of 3 metal divots, the entire inside has a rubber coating. The bolt will slide through if you don't have any angularity, but if there's any angularity you'll catch and you can't thread the both through, it'll gum up and get stuck. I had angularity because of the spring issue, but I don't expect it to be a problem on the left side. I'll probably have to order another bushing and push this damaged one out, since fitting an interior sleeve will be even tougher and I destroyed so much inner material I fear there'll be too much play and I'll get clunks.

I guess for next time I'll unhook the exhaust off the two rear hangars and then disconnect at the middle junction and remove the extra braced middle hanger - all other connection points are way too rusted to take apart. Why does no-one mention that to get the spring out on exhaust side you'll either need to compress the spring or remove/unhook exhaust? Is whatever the prior owner did so different from stock that I don't have the clearance I should?
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Old 11-11-2022, 03:15 PM   #5
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I seem to be finding mixed answers for whether exhaust goes over or under axle for 240s. I saw one post saying after '78 it was all under, another saying only Turbos go under, all others are over. Parts drawings for B21FT generally show under. Potentially dealer aftermarket repairs would go over....

If I look at the possible options from here: https://usparts.volvocars.com/Volvo_...bo/Engine.html
Then there's 4 drawings
1. Exhaust routed under, back half of exhaust only
2. Exhaust routed under, front and back of exhaust (same back half as #1)
3. Exhaust goes over, back half of exhaust only
4. Exhaust routed under, front and back half (same as #2)

so #3 indicates that it might exist (as part # 31372178), but since my car currently has a very rusted 1st muffler delete I would also likely need an elbow joint (or to get the 1st muffler, but that's a relatively expensive part). Skandix doesn't think the part is compatible (https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...-pipe/1001511/ no B21F* on the list at all). Tasca thinks some variants might be compatible but has a very weirdly narrowed list (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ffler-31372178 and their database stops at 1984 anyways)

Anyone have experience with this? I need to go to a muffler shop anyways for the bottom of the downpipe mount and trans crossmember smacking, so if I could bring this and just get them to make the elbow and not have to worry about rest of clearances, that'd be nice. No plans to lower the car.
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Old 11-11-2022, 04:20 PM   #6
dl242gt
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Exhaust system info that I know from experience.
Around 1977-78 Volvo changed to an under the axle exhaust for North American cars. The rest of the world continued to get over the axle exhaust.
This persists till today. If you buy an aftermarket system for a US car they generally go under. For the USA Volvo was supplying n/a cat back
exhaust that went over the axle. That started several years ago.

However, Simons Sport Systems go over the axle.

Now a turbo is a different thing. Larger tubing and for the US only 1 rear muffler with a hanger bracket where the first muffler going under the axle would be. Rest of the world seems to have gotten the larger turbo exhaust with two mufflers but those systems did not have a cat converter in them. They usually went over the axle from what I recall.
Good luck with the shopping.
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1993 245 Classic, 440k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.

Last edited by dl242gt; 11-11-2022 at 04:21 PM.. Reason: correct spelling
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Old 11-11-2022, 06:03 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Exhaust system info that I know from experience.
Around 1977-78 Volvo changed to an under the axle exhaust for North American cars. The rest of the world continued to get over the axle exhaust.
This persists till today. If you buy an aftermarket system for a US car they generally go under. For the USA Volvo was supplying n/a cat back
exhaust that went over the axle. That started several years ago.

However, Simons Sport Systems go over the axle.

Now a turbo is a different thing. Larger tubing and for the US only 1 rear muffler with a hanger bracket where the first muffler going under the axle would be. Rest of the world seems to have gotten the larger turbo exhaust with two mufflers but those systems did not have a cat converter in them. They usually went over the axle from what I recall.
Good luck with the shopping.
So if Volvo was playing any bit of commonality game, then the first mounting point post CAT/downpipe should be common for NA and EverywhereElse. And the rear muffler should also be common mounting/positioning. They probably subbed a Catalyst for 1st muffler, somewhat dual purpose but also not to increase backpressure. So OverAxle for EverywhereElse plus some custom elbow+straight length should connect up without dramatically increasing backpressure beyond where it's currently at for a NA turbo. And the diameters should all be common.

Thank you for a single point nuance answer, merging comments on forums over the decades was getting confusing.
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Old 11-13-2022, 05:31 PM   #8
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I think my n/a car runs better with the over the axle setup. I have used the genuine Volvo replacement exhaust which was over the axle. That's what they will sell you now so they went for the commonality. I also use the Simons sport cat back exhaust on my wagon. I haven't tried the Simons turbo system. With 240 Turbo exhaust Volvo never sold a kit. They just sold the individual parts.
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Old 11-14-2022, 10:35 PM   #9
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Unless someone knows of an existing 1st muffler delete replacement pipe (long elbow basically, to imitate what the muffler would have been), then I'd still have to get that portion made in a shop somewhere.

B21FT (NA turbo) has catalyst on downpipe then straight pipe then the under axle pipe.
B21ET (Elsewhere turbo) has plain downpipe then 1st muffler with upturned end, over axle pipe.

Not sure what model to search that might have just pipe with an elbow where 1st muffler would be (would have to be a catalyst using model) but then still get over axle pipe.

I'm wondering what config the part 1A here would be, but it doesn't have an upturn so wouldn't work properly anyways: https://usparts.volvocars.com/a/Volv.../GR-24917.html

Probably something to have someone fab up?
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Old 11-15-2022, 06:39 AM   #10
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This is the best diagram for the 240t exhaust system.
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Old 11-15-2022, 08:02 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by apachechef View Post
take the wheels off
unbolt spring perches, install springs and perches,
bolt them up

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Old 11-20-2022, 01:07 PM   #12
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Got out on the highway for the first time in a while, when properly up at 70mph, 3krpm in 4th (overdrive didn't even want to switch light on, separate investigation) the engine was quite loud and droning and annoying.

So. It's entirely possible the small rear silencer/muffler/resonator some prior owner put on isn't doing much to kill that noise. It's definitely smaller than all the stock drawings I have found.

Now, since I have a catalytic converter on the front (albeit missing the upper and lower brackets seen here, P/N 11-18, 25-30), and it seems at most Volvo put 2/3 possible items on the turbos (catalyst, front muffler, rear muffler), what makes sense to have on this system?

Background - Owner notes last list new turbo, new catalytic converter, new muffler in 1994. After that either replacements weren't written down or didn't happen. I think directly prior owner mentioned something about an exhaust modification to remove/replace a muffler, but I'm not sure. I don't have emissions tests out in this part of my state, but I think I'd generally prefer to not delete it unless there's a way to verify it's toast. If it is toast, it's not worth the money to put a new cat in.

Which part of the exhaust system is best setup to kill the 3k rpm drone?
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Old 11-24-2022, 07:14 AM   #13
Otto Mattik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_hairy_baboon View Post
Got out on the highway for the first time in a while, when properly up at 70mph, 3krpm in 4th (overdrive didn't even want to switch light on, separate investigation) the engine was quite loud and droning and annoying.

So. It's entirely possible the small rear silencer/muffler/resonator some prior owner put on isn't doing much to kill that noise. It's definitely smaller than all the stock drawings I have found.

Now, since I have a catalytic converter on the front (albeit missing the upper and lower brackets seen here, P/N 11-18, 25-30), and it seems at most Volvo put 2/3 possible items on the turbos (catalyst, front muffler, rear muffler), what makes sense to have on this system?

Background - Owner notes last list new turbo, new catalytic converter, new muffler in 1994. After that either replacements weren't written down or didn't happen. I think directly prior owner mentioned something about an exhaust modification to remove/replace a muffler, but I'm not sure. I don't have emissions tests out in this part of my state, but I think I'd generally prefer to not delete it unless there's a way to verify it's toast. If it is toast, it's not worth the money to put a new cat in.

Which part of the exhaust system is best setup to kill the 3k rpm drone?

I read that the rear unit is the muffler, and front is the resonator, and the duel system helps reduce vibration.


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