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Old 01-19-2020, 10:56 PM   #26
Awaffa2003
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I need to work on that B23. Is this a block that can be drilled for squirters? I'm gonna have to get into that motor I know for sure anyway, it dieseled pretty bad before I pulled it, indicitive of carbon build up no? So if at that point it needs a hone and a fresh set of rings and seals then so be it. That should keep me busy for awhile.

bobxyz- I think you're right, I can go elsewhere and see how these Miata guys are tuning with Alpha-N, maybe take some tips.
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:17 AM   #27
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Don't forget a proper TPS. MS does not use switches.

Skinny rods are fine until you add boost or spray. So no good for turbo. MaxSpeed rods on eBay $250 a set

Flat or Bumpy pistons?

Programmable Dist not an advantage and you will want to turn it off to be a "Locked" distributor, no advance.
Yeah, I know about the TPS, 850 one with its throttle body maybe ? Will it fit the B230 manifold ?

Cost is going to be an issue soon. Rods I'll see if my budget allows it
Pistons, I have no idea, reusing stock ones if possible, high compression B200E (euro spec).

I don't think I can lock the diff, its a fully sealed unit, it does manage it all (ignition timing, firing the coil...)

If ditching it, (optimal I know), I will need a fixed dif (have to buy that), and I'll need a power stage, no ? Might as well go for LS1 coils (do these even work with Microsquirt ?)

Awaffa, the 123 dizzy is a standalone do it all unit, its very interesting when running stock or turbo K Jet but seems like its not really suited for MS...
+ I don't think the B23 is drilled for squirters. Late B230 are - check this link http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~am...230_engine.htm

Last edited by Victorrr; 01-20-2020 at 05:19 AM.. Reason: Forgot it again
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Old 01-20-2020, 09:25 AM   #28
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Squirters can be installed in any red block.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:01 AM   #29
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Squirters can be installed in any red block.
How easily tho..?
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:07 AM   #30
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How easily tho..?
Looks like B21/23 need extra work
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=8647
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:02 AM   #31
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Looks like B21/23 need extra work
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=8647
Yeahh, thats what I was talking about
My revised b230 on the other hand, got the provision. It has the bump on the side of the block I think all I need to do is drill them inside. Finding squirters is the hard part. I've heard that some BMW parts work well but I have no idea where to get them..
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:06 AM   #32
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Since you picked up the '93 wagon, I'd focus on making THAT the reliable daily driver, and take it to Colorado. Already fuel injected, and shouldn't take much. A '93 wagon represents in some respects the very best of what the stock Volvo 240 had to offer, and wagons make for great road trip cars. What's the deal with the one you picked up? Tell us more about that. I'd spin the '80 into a project +T w/ later EFI parts, and Megasquirt.

Also... The reason people keep suggesting the relatively easy +T setup is because the ITBs are still going to be a total dog on the stock motor. If you want the car to move half decently, you need boost... or at least a hell of a lot of 8V head work or 16V swap, high compression pistons, cams etc... and then you're STILL behind what you can do with boost. If you take your time, you can find the parts you need to do the +T for a very reasonable amount of money.
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:48 PM   #33
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^This. Fix the '93 up and turn that into your daily. Let the older wagon be either a refurb project or build it up into a sporty sunday driver with a B23F+T or something.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:19 PM   #34
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Yeahh, thats what I was talking about
My revised b230 on the other hand, got the provision. It has the bump on the side of the block I think all I need to do is drill them inside. Finding squirters is the hard part. I've heard that some BMW parts work well but I have no idea where to get them..
I didn't have any issues using the squirterizational kit to add squirters to my B21FT block (other than the drill bit wandering a bit and not hitting the oil galley perfectly on center). The BMW part is: 11 11 1 739 907 "Oil Spraying Nozzle", and are ~$25 each from www.getbmwparts.com. They have tiny little ball-bearing spring valves built in, but I don't know the opening pressure.
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:10 AM   #35
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Since you picked up the '93 wagon, I'd focus on making THAT the reliable daily driver, and take it to Colorado. Already fuel injected, and shouldn't take much. A '93 wagon represents in some respects the very best of what the stock Volvo 240 had to offer, and wagons make for great road trip cars. What's the deal with the one you picked up? Tell us more about that. I'd spin the '80 into a project +T w/ later EFI parts, and Megasquirt.

Also... The reason people keep suggesting the relatively easy +T setup is because the ITBs are still going to be a total dog on the stock motor. If you want the car to move half decently, you need boost... or at least a hell of a lot of 8V head work or 16V swap, high compression pistons, cams etc... and then you're STILL behind what you can do with boost. If you take your time, you can find the parts you need to do the +T for a very reasonable amount of money.
Don't mind if I do my man! Its blue and a bit rusty haha. Other than that, fires right up and the only forseeable issue I have with it is that it weeps a bit of coolant from the water pump.

I was told that the motor was swapped out about 20K miles ago with a B230 with 100K miles on it. Odometer is broken and I'm not sure what mileage if broke at, but I'll get some pics this weekend. In any case, I am using it as my daily, just swapped the plates tonight and put the 80 in the garage :( It's beautiful, but I agree that it needs some work before I drive it into the ground in it's current state just to feel cool haha.

Other than that...it's kinda weird having ABS in it just by the feel of putzing around in my neighborhood this evening with all the ice still on the side streets, but...oh well. Brakes are a bit mushy compared to the 80. Methinks I just need to bleed them. Interior is blue cloth that is in dire need of a cleaning, but it does have factory plastic mats that are pretty cool. *THAT BLUE THOUGH GAHHHH*

Ummm...what else. Kinda kick ass new stereo in it... Other than that, it's a stock 245 guys... Has a roof rack that I'm not terribly fond of. If I take it off, I'll have two in the garage (the other from my '83)... No 3rd row seat (only the '80 has it). Maybe I should take pics of all of them and throw them up here for reference. What I know for certain (the only thing at this point) is that I need to get the '83 that's hanging out in the driveway scrapped! I need the doors (already removed the liftgate and one rear door), suspension components (front and rear), axle/diff, steering rack, master cylinder/booster... think that's bout it. I'd like to take the front quarter panels too, but it seems that they're welded in.

ALSO, I'd like to take the rear glass, but I have no idea how to get it out without breaking it. What would really be sweet is if when I'm chopping it up, which I have to do to get the damn thing to the scrapyard because these yahoos want to charge me to come get it (no engine or rims and "scrap price is low this time of year BS"), I could take the rear window "frames". The windows in my 80 leak a little into the cabin and I wonder that if in time, I could get the good ones from the 83 grafted in to relace the leakers. Does this make sense or should I just pay someone to take the windows out and repair/re-weld the bad areas which I heard is quite labor intensive (expensive). But there again, I don't want my baby to rust out over something that damn dumb.
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:35 AM   #36
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I didn't have any issues using the squirterizational kit to add squirters to my B21FT block (other than the drill bit wandering a bit and not hitting the oil galley perfectly on center). The BMW part is: 11 11 1 739 907 "Oil Spraying Nozzle", and are ~$25 each from www.getbmwparts.com. They have tiny little ball-bearing spring valves built in, but I don't know the opening pressure.
Nice
the what kit ?

25 a piece. Hm. I might not have the budget tbh ahah
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:12 PM   #37
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So I drove the blue 93 to work today, not only is the water pump weeping, but my temp gauge is pegged into the red.

What water pump do I need? Looked at ipd and there are many. I don't think I'll complain too much about changing a thermostat and coolant sensor either, but does anyone have part numbers?
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:21 PM   #38
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https://drive.google.com/folderview?...upKYKcDug3atUg

Further investigation leads me to believe that it's the thermostat. Squeezed the top radiator hose and the temp went back down. Ugh...

But pics.
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Old 01-22-2020, 01:43 PM   #39
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https://drive.google.com/folderview?...upKYKcDug3atUg

Further investigation leads me to believe that it's the thermostat. Squeezed the top radiator hose and the temp went back down. Ugh...

But pics.
We can't see the pics..
Just change the water pump and thermostat + do a full flush.

Its really easy to change, just make sure all the belts are correctly aligned when you put it back on (nail the tension to have equal pull from both sides of the engine, since the water pump bearing support the fan AND the pulley that drives the PS and alternator)

I'd say do it, its not that much in parts and your water pump is obviously dead. Thermostat is a no brainer really. Just call them over at Ipd, they'll help with the choice (its important to pick the correct one depending on the engine, climate ect...) Don't base your choice on the thermostat that's in at the moment as sometimes its not the correct one. Again, peoples have different opinions on which temp you should go with.
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Old 01-22-2020, 02:32 PM   #40
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We can't see the pics..
Just change the water pump and thermostat + do a full flush.

Its really easy to change, just make sure all the belts are correctly aligned when you put it back on (nail the tension to have equal pull from both sides of the engine, since the water pump bearing support the fan AND the pulley that drives the PS and alternator)

I'd say do it, its not that much in parts and your water pump is obviously dead. Thermostat is a no brainer really. Just call them over at Ipd, they'll help with the choice (its important to pick the correct one depending on the engine, climate ect...) Don't base your choice on the thermostat that's in at the moment as sometimes its not the correct one. Again, peoples have different opinions on which temp you should go with.
Sorry, we now have pics!
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:13 PM   #41
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Nice car ! some rust but it looks okay. I'd clean this engine bay ahah, looks fine other wise. That's a weird leak, looks like a mix of oil and coolant ahah. I have the same leak but wayyy smaller. I'm not an expert on these engines. Oil might be coming from the front part of the cam cover gasket, the part were it goes over the cam, in the corners, peoples often forget to put a dab of gasket maker there... but I think you know that already ^^

I'd check the coolant sensor instead of just replacing it. They are solid, its more often the cables that are at fault ^^

Is it me or your car doesn't have the inline fuse on the inner left fender - on the metal bracket, near the coil/batt ?
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:30 PM   #42
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Nice car ! some rust but it looks okay. I'd clean this engine bay ahah, looks fine other wise. That's a weird leak, looks like a mix of oil and coolant ahah. I have the same leak but wayyy smaller. I'm not an expert on these engines. Oil might be coming from the front part of the cam cover gasket, the part were it goes over the cam, in the corners, peoples often forget to put a dab of gasket maker there... but I think you know that already ^^

I'd check the coolant sensor instead of just replacing it. They are solid, its more often the cables that are at fault ^^

Is it me or your car doesn't have the inline fuse on the inner left fender - on the metal bracket, near the coil/batt ?

1991-93 cars no longer use the underhood 25 amp fuse. 1991-early 1993 have everything run off of fuse 6, except for the prepump. Late 1993 has the system run off of the battery terminal fuse block.

Re: the temp gauge, I'd also bypass the compensation board. https://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html

Last edited by John242Ti; 01-23-2020 at 05:35 PM.. Reason: wrong car...
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Old 01-24-2020, 04:31 AM   #43
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1991-93 cars no longer use the underhood 25 amp fuse. 1991-early 1993 have everything run off of fuse 6, except for the prepump. Late 1993 has the system run off of the battery terminal fuse block.

Re: the temp gauge, I'd also bypass the compensation board. https://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html
Oh, nice to know that
My 88 doesn't have the 25 amp fuse either but its a Euro car, this may explain that.

Same thing, Euro cars never came with this compensation board thing... +1 removing this thing, can make the temp gauge go crazy
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:33 AM   #44
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Oh, nice to know that
My 88 doesn't have the 25 amp fuse either but its a Euro car, this may explain that.

Same thing, Euro cars never came with this compensation board thing... +1 removing this thing, can make the temp gauge go crazy
Indeed, my 1990/1991 240 did not have the compensation board either. And no underhood fuse(s).
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Old 01-24-2020, 01:09 PM   #45
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Indeed, my 1990/1991 240 did not have the compensation board either. And no underhood fuse(s).
Being European also comes with some advantages ^^

Hey OP, how is it going for you ?
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Old 01-24-2020, 08:43 PM   #46
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It's going lol. Got a thermostat on order. Driving the '80 until I put it in and make sure everything's good. In the mean time.....I feel like it wouldn't be a stretch to spend this money that's burning a hole in my pocket and take the struts off the '83 and do the lifted thing seeing as it'll be my DD/camp wagon. Vanagon shocks, no?
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Old 01-25-2020, 07:09 AM   #47
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It's going lol. Got a thermostat on order. Driving the '80 until I put it in and make sure everything's good. In the mean time.....I feel like it wouldn't be a stretch to spend this money that's burning a hole in my pocket and take the struts off the '83 and do the lifted thing seeing as it'll be my DD/camp wagon. Vanagon shocks, no?
You plan on changing the water pump too, right ?

Wait what you wanna lift the wagon ? Or is my English reaching its limit again..
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