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Best Block choice

martijn266

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Location
Zeeland, Netherlands
Hey guys,

After dipping my toes in the HP water I really want to make more power.
I now have a 940 b230ft squirter with a 16T turbo and bigger exhaust, intercooler, injectors etc.
Now that i'm going to build my Honda cb I have some time to think about the next step for the Volvo.

My intentions for this engine will be somewhere in the upper 400 maybe 500 HP range.
I've read the forums and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) about the best and strongest redblocks.
I'm thinking about a post '89 b230f as a base block as they have less cylinder wear and are easier to find in decent condition.

Is a decent condition b230f up to the task of handeling a lot of HP and boost?
It will probably going to have a tuned 531 with bigger valves or maybe a 16v. Don't know what turbo it will get tho.
 
How much money do you have? Do you have the time, ability, to upgrade literally everything else in the drivetrain, fuel system, ems, to make a relatively fragile engine block survive at that level? There are so many better power plant choices that I would go with first. Granted I am seeing this from the other end of the tunnel. Also that and you might have better access to red blocks than most so this may be a moot point to you.
 
The best block would be a sleeved block I guess. So find an ok squirter block and have it sleeved by a machine shop. It should cost you around $275 NZD a hole to have the job done and you'll have a good strong block that will not split a bore.
 
The best block would be a sleeved block I guess. So find an ok squirter block and have it sleeved by a machine shop. It should cost you around $275 NZD a hole to have the job done and you'll have a good strong block that will not split a bore.
I made a few calls but nobody around here will do it for a reasonable price (north of 1500)
I was hoping that a stock b230 with aftermarket forged internals would do the trick.


How much money do you have? Do you have the time, ability, to upgrade literally everything else in the drivetrain, fuel system, ems, to make a relatively fragile engine block survive at that level? There are so many better power plant choices that I would go with first. Granted I am seeing this from the other end of the tunnel. Also that and you might have better access to red blocks than most so this may be a moot point to you.
I know that 400/500 hp isn't going to be cheap. I just like the redblocks and the fact that they are easy to work on, im keeping my options open though. A 6 cyl whiteblock +t also is an option. I don't really have a budget yet, im still orientating and making a bit of a pricelist for myself.
But yes, i have the time to upgrade everything. We will see about the ability....
 
I recall reading on the Stealthfti pbase page that he liked to use the late model B230F blocks because of the lower wear from all the heat cycling. The block will support the hp you want to build. Plan well and you will join the +300hp club. You'll want to do something about the intake manifold for that power but a 90+ exhaust manifold that is ported can support a lot of power.
 
s-l1600.jpg
If I do a swap i'll do the 6cyl whiteblock swap, just like Lankku did.
Here's the link to his build: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=309746&highlight=Whiteblock

I recall reading on the Stealthfti pbase page that he liked to use the late model B230F blocks because of the lower wear from all the heat cycling. The block will support the hp you want to build. Plan well and you will join the +300hp club. You'll want to do something about the intake manifold for that power but a 90+ exhaust manifold that is ported can support a lot of power.
That was my thinking also. Was thinking about a custom exhaust manifold so i can get the most out of the twin scroll stuff. And the turbo placement isn't ideal for big turbos on the stock ones
 
If I do a swap i'll do the 6cyl whiteblock swap, just like Lankku did.
Here's the link to his build: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=309746&highlight=Whiteblock


That was my thinking also. Was thinking about a custom exhaust manifold so i can get the most out of the twin scroll stuff. And the turbo placement isn't ideal for big turbos on the stock ones

That's what I'm doing now. I did have a 400hp B230 16V + turbo at one time. It probably cost me north of $6K to build the complete setup running on Megasquirt 2.

RXsRC64.jpg
 
I was looking into this, though I had heard that the I6 whiteblock wasn't the sturdiest.

What was required to toughen the hell up out of the I6, and get it ready for powah

H-Beam rods, forged Traum pistons, blockguard to close the deck, shims between the bores, balanced rotating assembly. And an MS3 Pro + a good tune once this is in the car and running.

You need to use the 2.8L block with the 81mm bores since they have greater cylinder wall thickness.


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This block can easily handle 1000whp with 8 or 16 valve engine:

MDS-R_BLOCK_3.jpg


It's motordesigns aftermarket R-block, which can handle something about 98mm bore and 103mm bore.

Supply of Volvo B230R Original Red Engine Blocks has become increasingly scarce, with a real risk for new Engine Block sourcing drying out completely.
Therefore, MDS has in own development defined and developed a completely new Motorsport/ Replacement Engine Block. The unique new casting of course covers the needs of today but is even more focused on protecting for the requirements of the future. The completely new block from all new tooling is designed with the latest state of the art development methods and most up to date knowledge. The block is also significantly stronger structurally through the all new detailed design, the crank case is further reinforced and the block is created more symmetrical. It is cast in a particular strong cast iron quality (actually the material is similar to that used by BMW and Mercedes in their Motorsport Blocks). The end result is an all new, structurally very strong and stable block, with reduced weight and not least engine friction. Furthermore, a displacement increase can also be realized without any compromises in strength or reliability.

This block with ACM crankshaft is my dream engine, i dreaming to combine this block with 103mm crank and Acm:s aftermarket cylinder head with 49/39mm valves.
 
This block can easily handle 1000whp with 8 or 16 valve engine:

MDS-R_BLOCK_3.jpg


It's motordesigns aftermarket R-block, which can handle something about 98mm bore and 103mm bore.

Supply of Volvo B230R Original Red Engine Blocks has become increasingly scarce, with a real risk for new Engine Block sourcing drying out completely.
Therefore, MDS has in own development defined and developed a completely new Motorsport/ Replacement Engine Block. The unique new casting of course covers the needs of today but is even more focused on protecting for the requirements of the future. The completely new block from all new tooling is designed with the latest state of the art development methods and most up to date knowledge. The block is also significantly stronger structurally through the all new detailed design, the crank case is further reinforced and the block is created more symmetrical. It is cast in a particular strong cast iron quality (actually the material is similar to that used by BMW and Mercedes in their Motorsport Blocks). The end result is an all new, structurally very strong and stable block, with reduced weight and not least engine friction. Furthermore, a displacement increase can also be realized without any compromises in strength or reliability.

This block with ACM crankshaft is my dream engine, i dreaming to combine this block with 103mm crank and Acm:s aftermarket cylinder head with 49/39mm valves.


Very nice but I don't think that he wants to pay $5000+ for a bare block...
 
Hey guys,

After dipping my toes in the HP water I really want to make more power.
I now have a 940 b230ft squirter with a 16T turbo and bigger exhaust, intercooler, injectors etc.
Now that i'm going to build my Honda cb I have some time to think about the next step for the Volvo.

My intentions for this engine will be somewhere in the upper 400 maybe 500 HP range.
I've read the forums and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) about the best and strongest redblocks.
I'm thinking about a post '89 b230f as a base block as they have less cylinder wear and are easier to find in decent condition.

Is a decent condition b230f up to the task of handeling a lot of HP and boost?
It will probably going to have a tuned 531 with bigger valves or maybe a 16v. Don't know what turbo it will get tho.

I?m going down the same road as you, aiming for somewhere between 300-400bhp. I?ll be fitting forged rods and upgrading to stud kits for the head and main bearing caps. I?m hoping that will be enough to hold it all together, engine is a 1995 B230FT from a 945.

The only thing I?m unsure of is whether LH2.4 is up to the task of running this setup, if your going for aftermarket management then it?s no issue but it?s big chunk of the budget I?m trying to avoid especially as I already have the LH2.4 with a loom.

I?d say as long as you start with a half decent engine with no cracks or warping you should be ok for your power goals, it?s a strong enough engine as long as it?s looked after, upgrade whatever you can that helps to keep it in one piece.

H-Beam rods, forged Traum pistons, blockguard to close the deck, shims between the bores, balanced rotating assembly. And an MS3 Pro + a good tune once this is in the car and running.

You need to use the 2.8L block with the 81mm bores since they have greater cylinder wall thickness.

This is an awesome looking build, something I would love to do in the near future, if you don?t mind me asking what this has cost up to this point?? Also what gearbox setup were you going for??
 
I?m going down the same road as you, aiming for somewhere between 300-400bhp. I?ll be fitting forged rods and upgrading to stud kits for the head and main bearing caps. I?m hoping that will be enough to hold it all together, engine is a 1995 B230FT from a 945.

The only thing I?m unsure of is whether LH2.4 is up to the task of running this setup, if your going for aftermarket management then it?s no issue but it?s big chunk of the budget I?m trying to avoid especially as I already have the LH2.4 with a loom.
It'll hold 400hp with forged rods only. Everything else is extra.

LH2.4 can do it if you have a good tuner or can tune it yourself.
 
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