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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

You can shop the dealership parts inventory online, you select the part, then it will get delivered to the dealership participating in the Online parts catalogue program closest to you. Then you can be sure you're ordering the correct part. Search Volvo parts Canada. I am pretty sure there are a bunch of dealers in Ontario that are participating. I just did this for my sister on Vancouver Island. I got the part # she needed for her XC60, then found it on Docksteaders site, she ordered it, and when it arrived they shipped it to her. No hassle. And the parts pricing is WAY better than if you were to walk up to the counter (even at the same dealer).

Jordan
 
It's been a crap winter, and I've been unable to do anything. Today I put in another order at KL Racing for some goodies, but that's about it :(. 16v three-row underdrive pulley with trigger wheel, the sensor bracket, and the steel round tooth crank gear. I may not use the trigger wheel portion right away, but it's always good to future-proof.
 
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Moved the car outside to make space to dig out the second 16v head I had in order to sell it to a buddy. Getting it started kinda sucked, since I deleted the cold start on the Webers, but once it warmed up it idled at 13:1-14:1 AFR just like it was supposed to. I was just happy to hear it run again, because winter sucks. As a surprise (and it was an AWESOME one), he brought me a 24mm swaybar from his stash, and I'm STOKED! Can't wait to install it :). He also brought along an LH2.2 distributor so I can check the alignment of the dizzy I shortened and be sure I got it right.
 
So the sway is a 23 mm OE bar, which is still an upgrade to the 21 mm I have on there now, so still a win :). I needed bushings, so I printed some. The ones that have been on the car since I got the 21mm bar a year or so ago are printed in the same 95A durometer TPU, and they're holding up great. 100% infill makes them a solid piece of poly.

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I've decided to use the KL racing underdrive pulley/60-2 trigger wheel setup instead of a shortened distributor, and a NoDiz Pro ignition-only ECU instead of MS2. I've wanted to try one out for a while, but it only supports 36-1 or 60-2 triggers...which I've got coming anyway. My reasoning won't make sense to anyone, but here it is as best as I can explain: I don't want to constantly have a laptop in the car, datalogging and making changes. The NoDiz doesn't datalog, and I can get away with a basic 2D ignition curve (for now), which is not ideal...but I haven't had my vac advance hooked up for a while anyway since the webers don't have a ported vac source. It also natively supports a Ford VR crank sensor (on a TON of models) and Ford coilpack (Escort/Focus/etc), which means no fussing about with shunts and filters. Comes with a nice PNP loom for those parts too, so minimal wiring. Once it's in the car...there will be no need to get out a laptop at all :).
 
The NoDiz Pro has arrived, and www.motorsport-electronics.co.uk is probably the best company I've ever dealt with. Email replies within 12 hours (EST vs GMT), friendly and helpful chats, and top notch boxing for shipping. I got a Ford coilpack for the zetec, a Ford crank sensor (again, zetec, but it's the same one Ford has used forever), a zetec plug and play loom to use on my engine, and the unit itself. Now hopefully the stuff from KL Racing shows up and I can get to installing it all on the stand. The postal service is taking it's sweet time :(.
 
The winter parts pile...f**k I hope it's an early spring...sigh.

-NoDiz Pro w/Zetec plug and play harness. I'll modify the harness to fit if necessary, but it's nice to not have to do any harness building for once. The NoDiz also natively supports the Ford crank sensor, so no mucking about with shunts and stuff.
-Ford Zetec crank sensor
-Ford Zetec coil pack
-KL Racing 16v triple groove crank pulley w/60-2 trigger wheel (just in case I'm ever silly enough to go LH2.4)
-KL Racing steel 16v timing gear and key
-KL Racing crank sensor bracket (2-pc). The sensor they sell is a Ford one, which is identical to the one I got with the NoDiz, so it'll be a perfect fit.

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I was going to roll the car outside and fire up the heater to get the garage to working temp and then go to town with all my new parts...but I just can't find the motivation to do it :(. It's still so damn cold out that it makes garage funtime feel like a chore. I did power up the NoDiz and alter the programming to suit my needs though, so I guess that's SOMETHING. Being a car guy in a climate that's cold for 6 months of the year really sucks :(.

This summer I'm going to build a monstrous shed and move all the car parts and junk out. Then I'll have quite a bit more room and maybe working over the winter won't be such a pain. It's pretty tight in there now with all the seasonal stuff waiting for spring.
 
Holy crap I did something.
After I got back from taking the wife to the brewery I decided to put my engine back on the stand instead of having it sitting on the wooden cradle. This way I can now do the oil pan gasket...at some point.

I'm currently starting to wonder about the smartypants-ness of this whole plan though. Gas is $1.82/L for regular right now, which kinda works against a 2.5L carbie engine, even if it's tuned perfectly. I guess I'll just be more aware of where I'm going this year. No random three hour cruises, lol.
 
Might I ask why a set of carbs rather than ITBs?
The DCOE throttle bodies these days are cheaper than a set of carbs and all the chokes and jets to fight with them, and it wouldn't take much ECU to run them. Then you don't need to worry about too large of a choke losing vacuum signal and bogging, or too small of a choke killing the top end, etc.
 
244tiCanuck said:
Might I ask why a set of carbs rather than ITBs?
The DCOE throttle bodies these days are cheaper than a set of carbs and all the chokes and jets to fight with them, and it wouldn't take much ECU to run them. Then you don't need to worry about too large of a choke losing vacuum signal and bogging, or too small of a choke killing the top end, etc.
Click to expand...

I just like carburetors :). In my head, which was 'raised' on fuel injection, a block of aluminum with brass tubes in it shouldn't work...but it does. It's the nearest thing to playing with magic, and it happens whenever I turn the key. Call them sideways fuel toilets or calibrated fuel leaks, but I just dig 'em :).
 
So I dragged my sorry ass off my comfy chair and did stuff. I'm finally back at work 5 days a week so it kinda makes it more...desireable(?) to work on the car even if it's cold.

I installed the KL Racing steel crank gear and underdrive pulley, and mocked up the trigger wheel/sensor. I had to butcher my nice timing cover, because there was NO way it would fit. The sensor mount fouled it hard. I'm actually not thrilled with the actual sensor mount portion because it really looks like the long plastic sensor could wiggle. I may weld a piece of tube there to act as a sleeve/brace, there's no way it needs to hang out into space that far without support. I had to score the pulley to make a new TDC mark, but that's no biggie.

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And now because the universe is conspiring against me...progress halts for two or three weeks while I wait for BS parts to be delivered. It really effing sucks to be in Canada when trying to build a car because absolutely everything comes from across a border of some sort. Even if I want to get an OEM part from the dealer...it's a two week wait. I've decided to get a new timing belt instead of relying on the good-looking one that came with the engine...it is due to arrive March 28th. I need a frost plug...a single, solitary 40.08mm frost plug...arriving March 24. I ordered a 530 head rear cam seal to plug the dizzy spot on the 16v head...arriving March 16th, sigh.
 
You should have asked them to VOR it and you'd pay the 5% they would have had to pay (well, VOR use to be 5%, I'm not sure it still is). VOR is over night. Otherwise you're waiting on a stock order which usually come in once a week, but if you missed cut off, you're waiting up to two!

Did you try checking to see if your dealer is part of the online parts distribution? Google Volvo parts Canada online. I know Volvo Toronto and I think Oakville participate. Parts are significantly cheaper. My sister orders online in Vancouver and they seem to VOR the parts to themselves then mail them to her pretty quickly. If it's for pickup, I think you may get it quicker (when she orders she gets the option for pick up or shipping).

Jordan
 
My local dealer isn't :(. Ottawa isn't great for things like that, which sucks.
I've busied myself with other things, like accidentally stumbling on to a 1310 large-damper slip yoke from a 96 Ranger at the local picknpull :). It's still in useable shape and once I clean it up I'll be one step closer to a T5 trans swap in the future. $16! lol.
 
The tailshaft bushing in the SN95 T5 I have was a biiiiiiit snug for the junkyard slip yoke. Did a bit of googling and that doesn't seem to be uncommon, so I did what the internerds said to do...and polished the yoke with sandpaper. Now it's a perfect fit.

Next on the list is a new tailshaft seal and a foxbody input shaft.
 
New tailshaft seal installed, and foxbody input shaft on the way.

I went to Deeworks today (3.25hr drive one way, but worth it) and picked up a T5 adapter. The spicer box has the 1310 pinion flange that bolts to the volvo diff, and the 1310 dampened slip yoke is not pictured...but it's there too :). The two main things left are driveshaft and crossmember.

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Oil pan and brand-spakin' new timing belt installed. I have to torque down the crank pulley bolt but I'll probably do that in-car to make it easier. I'm going to start prepping the car for B21 removal :).

FYI, if anyone wants to know exactly what the Dayco part number is for the 146 tooth belt, it's 94229, and here's a list of the cars it came on (euro Opel/Vauxhall diesels). I paid $15 CAD for the belt, plus shipping from the UK.
 
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