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1971 142S "I'll keep this one"

I found a local (to school) radiator shop after searching a good bit and a few dead ends. Just dropped it off- getting a 1/2" 3 row high efficiency core installed. We looked in my core and there was A LOT of calcium deposits. No wonder this thing ran perpetually hot.

Hopefully I can pay TFrasca for his minty recently-rebuilt booster today or sometime this coming week.

I need to figure out a way to fix the fuel tank leak. Considering draining the tank and using JB weld and excellent thread sealant until I can source a better tank.
 
Here's what the ends of the core looked like. No wonder it always ran hot with the fan on full blast in traffic :omg::omg::omg:
TV2V3Y0l.jpg

9BzIJ8kl.jpg


Pro tip: don't run super hard well water in your radiator.
 
Two things:
1- There's no telling how bad it was from sitting for 10 years. I don't have images of it from before I woke it up. I only put about 1.5 gallons through it, and our water isn't that hard.
2. Considering the fact the best serious offer I got on the car was $1100 as is with all my nice parts, there was no way I was selling it.

Honestly, the build-up isn't the reason the rad failed. Mounting the e-fan with the stupid zip ties is why it failed. The coolant never looked bad when I flushed it/changed it. Also, its a '71 142 with enough rust to scare off any serious collector. Nobody wants it, and yall keep crushing, thrashing, and trashing the new stuff just like the 140's were 20 years ago.

Not butthurt, just tired of old people yelling at me about a car they didn't want to save.

End rant. Back to mediocrity.
 
Man I've only ever run well water in my cars. It's fine. Sitting for decades is what does that type of corrosion.
 
I received the brake booster today, and WOAH MOMMA it is way too nice for this car.
I'm 98% certain it's the right one for the car. Huge thanks to Tyler (TFrasca) for hooking up a discouraged college student.
Radiator is done- I need to pick it up still.
 
Just some advice on the engine 'temperature' thing.

I have a B20E with a Megasquirt retrofit reading temperature off of the old Djet sensor at the front of the head and a Speed Hut temperature gauge reading temperature off of a sensor inserted where the original dash sensor was located at the back of the head. I have calibrated both in test water baths and they are generally within +\- 1C of each other from 0 C to 100 C (under static conditions). When driving at steady speeds the back of head temperature runs typically 1 C (maybe 2 C max) hotter than the front of head. On a hot day when the car comes to a stop at a long traffic light, the back of head temperature will increase fairly quickly and my recollection is that it can approach 98C - 100C while the front of head temperature is sort of doodling around 90 - 92 C. As soon as the engine speed picks up ( traffic light turns green or speed up the idle) coolant flow increases and the back of head temperature drops. While the temperature at the back of the head is doing the yo-yo thing, the front of head temperature is sitting pretty steady so the temperature rise is definitely not caused by lack of radiator capacity.

Short answer, there is a temperature gradient in the B20 head under low coolant flow conditions. Volvo and other OEMs put a lag function into the dash gauge which slows its response down so you don't see these temperature transients; but, at a really long traffic light or really slow traffic, it will eventually show. Its kind of just the way it is. So, with your new radiator, don't freak out if the temperature still tends to spike at a long traffic light on a hot day. If the coolant overflow bottle is not burping coolant then you are probably OK.

However, be aware that the B20 head has a thing called a water distribution pipe which runs from the front to the back of the head. Its slightly tapered with holes in it to direct flow at the individual combustion chamber zones. If you remove the fitting for the top rad hose from the head and look into the large hole you can see the front end of the distribution pipe. The distribution pipe is a separate piece from the head and is swedged (or swaged if you prefer) into the head. Sometimes it comes loose and rotates so the openings are not pointed in the right direction or it moves forward allowing coolant to bypass the pipe. In extreme circumstances I have heard (never seen) of the back end of the pipe disappearing due to corrosion with the result that cylinders 4 and maybe 3 don't get quite the coolant flow that they should. In such cases, hot running might not be normal and might be a sign of a problem. With the top rad hose fitting off and the coolant level dropped you can fit your finger in there and feel the front end of the distribution pipe. If its not flopping around and you can't rotate the pipe, then its probably just fine. Replacement distribution pipes are available. Replacement requires removal of that large casting plug on the front of the head so that you can fit the new pipe in and swedge it in place - with the right tool.

Final thought. What are you running for coolant? Premix is OK. If you are mixing your own coolant / water, do not exceed the antifreeze manufacturer's max mix percentage. High antifreeze levels tend to elevate the boiling point of the coolant mix. Engine cooling systems tend to rely on something called nucleate boiling to assist in heat transfer from the block metal to the coolant. High antifreeze levels elevate the nucleate boiling point causing the block to run hotter. So, more is not necessarily better when it comes to anti freeze mixes.
 
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Welp, here's an update on the thread, almost a year-to-date since initial purchase.
Joey and I rented an UHaul truck and trailer to rescue the car from my college apartment so if we get locked down at home, I'll at least have my project car. I have nearly everything to finish the mechanical problems (recored radiator, rebuilt booster, miscellaneous hardware, etc).

While loading the car yesterday, I noticed that the boot on the idler arm(?) is torn and there's some play. I guess that's more stuff to order. I'll probably overhaul all of that stuff because I'm planning on dropping the subframe to repair the rust on the driver's rail.

vWDrXtg.jpg
 
What boot is there on the idler arm? If you're replacing that bushing, I'd do the brass one. It tightened my steering up a bit.
 
Tfrasca said:
What boot is there on the idler arm? If you're replacing that bushing, I'd do the brass one. It tightened my steering up a bit.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know if the brass bushings are available from anywhere other than Scandix these days? I've seen a few mentions of getting them on ebay, but I can't find any.
 
Tfrasca said:
What boot is there on the idler arm? If you're replacing that bushing, I'd do the brass one. It tightened my steering up a bit.
Click to expand...

I misspoke.
Tie rod end.

I plan to go brass when I replace mine. There's a guy in Europe who makes them too.
 
vwbusman66 said:
I misspoke.
Tie rod end.

I plan to go brass when I replace mine. There's a guy in Europe who makes them too.
Click to expand...

Just buy the parts from VP, their parts are brass as well and available from SC instead of across the pond.

I figured you just needed tie rod boots. They're $7/piece at VP. Ball joints are $15 and the entire tie rod kit for your car is $97.
 
I ordered a bunch of stuff yesterday.
Rebuilt rear calipers from HiPerfAuto, hard brake line and fittings from RockAuto, and tie rods and center link ends as well as an air filter from VP.
Hopefully, I can actually drive this car soon.
 
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