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B230+T5 3k rpm shake

Do these yokes with the dampers change anything else or are they a direct swap? Our General Leif has some almost solid engine mounts and the vibration is severe. Part of that is to be expected, but if there's a way to reduce it a bit, that would be nice... But it is a race car, so are we hurting anything other than our brains by not doing it? Who knows.
 
No bad nothing with my JohnV saab areo 9000 pressure plate and bmw z3 240mm clutch disc no washers and bmw getrag 265 trans and guibo and all else stock. Clutch did slip a little at first but not anymore. Probably should have put some washers between pressure plate and flywheel as disc is a little thicker then stock.
 
Do these yokes with the dampers change anything else or are they a direct swap?

The distance between the centerline of the u-joint and the front of the damper is larger than a non-damped slip yoke.

You get the idea from this pic (thanks @Tfrasca).
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5902505&postcount=725
U45iKzI.jpg


Transmission tunnel needs opened up if you are going to use the 4-cyl damper (on left).

The V6/Aerostar damper (middle) fits in a 240 tunnel.
 
I need to do that - I'm using the stock rubber 240 boot on it now. And the shifter is on an offset, so it moves up and down with the shifter throw, so in 5th it is pulling the lever down some.

And the current setup is just a sort of placeholder until I get around to putting on the narrowed Ford 8.8 I have sitting in the garage. I just wanted to get the car up and driving around before finishing up the last few things on it.

The CD009 just has some weird ratios.
1 - 3.784
2 - 2.324
3 - 1.624
4 - 1.271
5 - 1.000
6 - 0.794

Certainly not made to work well with a 3.73 rear end. Although apparently, in the Nissans they use them with a 3.5(ish) rear end - so they're spinning the motors pretty fast most of the time.

I have this 3.31 rear with matching pinion in a box if you ever want it? :oogle:
 
The distance between the centerline of the u-joint and the front of the damper is larger than a non-damped slip yoke.

You get the idea from this pic (thanks @Tfrasca).
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5902505&postcount=725
https://i.imgur.com/U45iKzI.jpg?2

Transmission tunnel needs opened up if you are going to use the 4-cyl damper (on left).

The V6/Aerostar damper (middle) fits in a 240 tunnel.
Thank you! We have no room for any of them on the General Leif, then. Our yoke is pushed almost all the way in as it sits. We'll continue living with it!
 
Thank you! We have no room for any of them on the General Leif, then. Our yoke is pushed almost all the way in as it sits. We'll continue living with it!

It's actually not as bad as that pic makes it look. The damper piece goes around the tail shaft housing of the transmission, so driveshaft length isn't affected very much.
 
It's actually not as bad as that pic makes it look. The damper piece goes around the tail shaft housing of the transmission, so driveshaft length isn't affected very much.
Nice. I guess we'd need a measurement between the u-joint mounting and the flange that would bump up against the transmission when pushed all the way in to see if it would work.
 
New Torque Rods

Quick update on my end. I ended up installing Ben's torque rods and they have made a noticeable difference. Not only is it easier to fine tune the pinion angle but they appear to allow for better rear axle articulation over the IPD rods I had (not to mention no more squeaking)

Noise / Vibration has been reduced if not eliminated at all speeds and gears but now I only get the coast down rumble between 2800 - 3000 RPM. The severity of the rumble has been reduced as well which has made the issue livable IMO.

I may hold off on the big ass slip yoke until next winter.
 
Quick update on my end. I ended up installing Ben's torque rods and they have made a noticeable difference. Not only is it easier to fine tune the pinion angle but they appear to allow for better rear axle articulation over the IPD rods I had (not to mention no more squeaking)

Noise / Vibration has been reduced if not eliminated at all speeds and gears but now I only get the coast down rumble between 2800 - 3000 RPM. The severity of the rumble has been reduced as well which has made the issue livable IMO.

I may hold off on the big ass slip yoke until next winter.

:rockon: I just pulled the last of the IPD bars off my car this week and put on the hybrid torque rods and a new panhard from Ben. Also did the spherical axle bearings. My dad's actually currently rolling around under the car as we are getting really really picky on driveline angles. Shimmed the t5z up on my crossmember and shimmed the center bearing down a bit to improve the operating angles.

I think I'm going to end up making my own center bearing support. I bought one from... Jao? here maybe, to run the 7/9 bushing and bearing and it was a total waste of money. It was built wrong (backwards) and has slotted mounting holes which just put the mounting bolts on the extreme end of the two slots so I can't actually adjust the thing side to side. Shouldn't be hard to make something that can actually take some adjustment.

Anyways, I'm mostly after improvements in a clunky rear end, but I'll let you guys know if I see any improvement in that 3k rpm buzz range.

Side note: seriously considering leaving my STS third engine mount off until I can put a shock/dampener in there instead. Don't think that can be helping it.
 
I replaced the solid link with an ebay "damper" that uses a pair of plyurethane bushings and a delrin donut to aid with isolation. I have to preload it so much to keep the valve cover off the AC lines on the firewall that it may not be doing that much damping after all, but may be of some help to those of you with 8v heads.

Between that, the v6 slip yoke, and BNE torque rods, the vibrations are down and now happen in the 2100-2400 RPM range. Will test some BMW E46/E39 trans mounts and a crossmember isolation kit before tearing down and inspecting the transmission.

It could be all down to poor gear engagement by the aftermarket input shaft at this point.
 
I replaced the solid link with an ebay "damper" that uses a pair of plyurethane bushings and a delrin donut to aid with isolation. I have to preload it so much to keep the valve cover off the AC lines on the firewall that it may not be doing that much damping after all, but may be of some help to those of you with 8v heads.

Between that, the v6 slip yoke, and BNE torque rods, the vibrations are down and now happen in the 2100-2400 RPM range. Will test some BMW E46/E39 trans mounts and a crossmember isolation kit before tearing down and inspecting the transmission.

It could be all down to poor gear engagement by the aftermarket input shaft at this point.

I was just thinking of you yesterday on this; I think you sent me your parts list but I couldn't find it. Is it still handy?

I improved my driveline angles quite a bit during my installs (transmission shimmed up, center bearing shimmed down. Transmission to bearing was over 3* previously) everything is within ~1* now.

Car is way way smoother. Between getting rid of all the poly, the spherical TABs, and rubber on the torque rods it's way way more pleasant. Clutch engagement is smoother and more forgiving (FX400 disk), and most importantly to me all of my clunking and clonking has disappeared.

I also lined every interfacing piece of plastic in the dash and center console with Tesa felt tape, and used a fist worth of butyl rope to dum up gaps and trim install points. THEN used a bunch of foam insulation strip to fill up bigger gaps. A lot of effort for a few improvements around the glovebox and steering column. For some reason my auxiliary gauge area just buzzes like crazy still. Cruising at 2500 is totally nice, 3k is like ughh this really is a ****box volvo.

I've seen a lot of people chase this around, including the guy who I bought my donor car from with the t5z and other driveline pieces. I think it's just a resonant frequency for the b230, and we're running light flywheels and stiff components that exacerbate it. Idk that there's a CURE, just ways to offset the symptoms.
 
You should engineer some balance shafts. I'll be first in line for a set.

Flywheel: I never had a problem with the dogdish; there just aren't many streetable clutches that can hold 400 lb-ft and only measure 228mm.

As for your dash, I used a ton of foil backed MLV and .75" thick vinyl foam from seat mounts to base of windshield and lined the underside of the dash with more butyl and thin foam. Thankfully my use of butyl tape was limited to 2 rolls :rolleyes:

As for the "damper", it's one of these. I welded on some extra tubing and tapped it to fit 7/16" rod ends to work with the STS brackets. Forgive the flux core ugliness. Not pictured is the left side of the arrangement. The rod has a "plunger", which is basically a washer fastened to the rod and is holding another donut captive against the end of the cylinder. The right rod end is threaded directly into the cylinder cap. It's a shock absorber that uses bushings instead of fluid, basically:








My plan is to eventually weld a motor mount bracket on a spare crossmember, on the passenger side as close to the frame rail as I can get away with. This should allow for a lot more mechanical advantage against the motor torquing over and negate the need for a heavily preloaded tension rod on the drivers side. With some luck I should be able to get away with using a hydraulic motor mount.
 
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It's actually not as bad as that pic makes it look. The damper piece goes around the tail shaft housing of the transmission, so driveshaft length isn't affected very much.

If you had to guess what would you define as the length isn't changed by much? 1/4" longer?

Before I tear into this I want to know if I need to shorten my DS.
 
Curious: what flywheels are y'all running? Something tells me that those with 230's and dog dishes are seeing way less of this nonsense.
 
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