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240 T5 with 3.5" alloy foxbody driveshaft

esmth

The member
Joined
Jul 13, 2016
Location
MA/NH
Hello all,
I have almost completed collecting all the bits and bobs for my T5 swap. I plan to buy a new "Ford Performance Parts Super-Duty T-5" and replace the 0.63 5th gear with the commonly available 0.80 "road race" ratio. Any experience with this here?

For the driveshaft, I know the modified/custom 2 piece shaft seems to the way to go nvh-wise, but I want a bolt in deal to start with. I bought the yoshifab mustang foxbody driveshaft adapter and am looking at new driveshafts and the only new things that seem to be available online are 3.5" aluminum dealios. Will it fit? Can I make it fit?

Thx,
Ethan
 
Id opt for a 3" aluminum single piece. Thats hard enough to fit in a 240.. 3.5 is going to require tunnel reconstruction if you are gonna be low.
 
I am running a 3" one-piece steel driveshaft.
The stock Foxbody driveshaft works, but is a bit on the short side.
<del>I was able to find a slightly longer off-the-shelf driveshaft, but from some brief searching it looks like options have become more limited.
I'd recommend either having a shop make you one from scratch or buying something like this to start with.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/U-We...veshaft-Kit-1310-Series-3-Inch-OD,332353.html</del>

Also may want to add a large slip yoke damper to your list to prevent decel rattle.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-slip-yoke-f6zz4841ba
 
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Hello all,
I have almost completed collecting all the bits and bobs for my T5 swap. I plan to buy a new "Ford Performance Parts Super-Duty T-5" and replace the 0.63 5th gear with the commonly available 0.80 "road race" ratio. Any experience with this here?

My 240 has a 3.91 rear diff and that same trans. I swapped the 0.63 5th for a 0.72. This changed my highway cruising at 75 mph from 2500 to 2850 rpm (215/45-17 tires), which still works for me and my long cross-country road trips.

Not sure what diff you have, but if you have 3.73, then your 75 mph cruise would be in the neighborhood of 2400 rpm with 0.63 5th, 2700 rpm with a 0.72 5th. And about 3000 rpm with 0.80 5th.
Dave
 
Go hit Coleman Racing for a 3" shaft, also a touch longer than the foxbody which is 45.5 c-c. I went 47" c-c when I had a 1pc, using a bolt-on Spicer flange on the back, no adapter, and it fit really nicely. I will probably be going back that route down the road as well, since the 2pc does nothing for the vibration. The magic fix seems to be the Mustang/Ranger yoke with the big balancer. I'm trying to hunt one of those down now.
 
3.5 is going to require tunnel reconstruction if you are gonna be low.
ah damn. i'm not that low though. I am actually thinking about getting softer and lengthier springs for my coilovers at some point this summer.

Also may want to add a large slip yoke damper to your list to prevent decel rattle.
if i were going with the generic alloy mustang shaft i'd try going with the included solid yoke at first but the shafts on coleman racing shafts linked below don't include them so I might as well.

Not sure what diff you have, but if you have 3.73, then your 75 mph cruise would be in the neighborhood of 2400 rpm with 0.63 5th, 2700 rpm with a 0.72 5th. And about 3000 rpm with 0.80 5th.
I do have 3.73, the car was originally an auto. I'm not too worried about high speed cruise, this is more of an around town/hilly backroads kind of car. The 0.79 5th and 3.73 as it is right now is pretty perfect for my uses, but the rest of the m46 ratios/gear spread suck.:rofl:

Go hit Coleman Racing for a 3" shaft
I never could have imagined a custom length shaft would be cheaper than the mass produced foxbody ones. Nice, this might be my best bet. It does look like I need the yoke and diff flange separate.
Think 46" or 46.5" is good for a stockish height car, along with the mustang adapter + flange? Or can i get a shaft that uses the stock volvo diff flange?
I do notice they sell lightened low-hp steel shafts with seem perfect for my car, too.:oogle:
 
Tunnel clearance will be an issue with the big drive shaft,if it is one piece if you lower it. The drive shaft in my V8 car is a two piece made from a '62 Caddy, steel tubes, 300K miles later no problems. Made it up myself.
 
Post #2 here might help...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=321237

That flange, a 47" c-c shaft, and the Mustang/Ranger big damper yoke and you should be good for a clean setup, limited vibrations, and with a 3" you'll have a much easier time clearing the tunnel than with the 3.5". In the 140 I had an issue with the 3" on hard bumps hitting the seat belt bolt in the middle of the tunnel until I raised the back end up a little. It's about 3/4-1" lower than stock and I had no issues with clearance. That may also change a little if you have to drop the trans a little to clear the balancer.
 
I have the 47" tube and its works well. Not the coleman but that is the right length. Gives about 1" or so of slip yoke travel. Reg output shaft and no vibrations that i can tell in a lemons car anyway that sees 2nd 3rd and 4th gear quite a bit.
 
Have the Coleman 47" aluminum driveshaft with Ranger Rear-Slip Yoke (F6ZZ4841BA) on the 245, works excellent.
 
Coleman 47" in one car and mustang SN95 driveshaft in the other, clearance is much better with the Coleman shaft (2.5") with the car pretty low.

If your going to tear it down why not buy a junkyard unit and inspect it well/replace anything boarderline while your in there.
 
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looks like 47" is the way to go. just to be sure, this is without the yoshi adapter, and with the ranger dampened yoke (it looks slightly longer than standard t5 slip yoke) and with the spicer 1310 diff flange?

I see in the thread linked post #2 as mentioned spicer 2-2-237 yoke diff flange but i cannot find that anywhere. I found spicer 2-2-329 which looks like it lines up with what bobxyz measured on his car in that same thread. I'll have to measure myself on mine to be sure.

Thx for all replies and input so far
 
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If your going to tear it down why not buy a junkyard unit and inspect it well/replace anything boarderline while your in there.

i've went back and forth internally whether i'd buy new or used and rebuild it. Though it seems difficult to find the 2.95 first gearset around here, (the 3.35 1st seems to be plentiful still) along with the fact that 2.95 first T-5's have a good chance of being abused/ridden right at/above their torque limit their entire life. I'm just gonna cut my losses and get a new one and correctly set the preload and install my 5th gearset.
 
ah damn. i'm not that low though. I am actually thinking about getting softer and lengthier springs for my coilovers at some point this summer.

If you want to run that drive shaft, id recommend raising your bumpstops. Dont underestimate how badly matched it is for the task at hand.

even at stock ride height you will have problems.
 
That 2-2-237 may have been superceded to another part number. That was actually on the box when I got mine but that's been many years. The other thing is, there's a good number of cars that run that 1310 joint with the same pattern. Hell, my wagon and the 240 shaft I have in the 140 have 1310 rear joints, so you may want to measure your existing flange, see if you even need to buy a flange. 3.219" cap to cap, 1.062" cap diameter.

I can't vouch for the length on the Ranger yoke yet, haven't had one in my hands to play with.
 
That 2-2-237 may have been superceded to another part number. That was actually on the box when I got mine but that's been many years. The other thing is, there's a good number of cars that run that 1310 joint with the same pattern. Hell, my wagon and the 240 shaft I have in the 140 have 1310 rear joints, so you may want to measure your existing flange, see if you even need to buy a flange. 3.219" cap to cap, 1.062" cap diameter.

I can't vouch for the length on the Ranger yoke yet, haven't had one in my hands to play with.

Yeah part number is Spicer 2-2-329 for a 1310 u-joint. They changed it.
 
ok, i've completely abandoned the idea of the 3.5 mustange shaft. Thx for input!
This weekend i'll measure my current diff flanges to see if mine takes a normal 1310 or to make sure the new pn spicer flange works. And maybe try to measure for myself an approx length for the ds.
 
Doesn't the F6ZZ4841BA Ranger damper take a 1330 U joint? Meaning it wouldn't work with the Spicer 2-2-329 flange and a Coleman 1310 shaft? I looked up the part number and drivetrainamerica.com called it Ford Slip Yoke 1330 Ranger Mustang. I'm assuming the 1330 means 1330 U joint.

Also, I am running a SN95 driveshaft currently with a damper and it rubs on my tunnel like crazy. I have no idea if the the ranger slip yoke is the same part, but I literally had to cut the outer part of the damper off to get it to clear at all. If it is the same slip yoke, I would not recommend using it.
 
There are adapter u-joints to go from 1330 to 1310. I also did find a 1310 based yoke in a Ranger, haven't found a part number for it yet, but it did have the big damper, just not the big joints.
 
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