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D24: Pile of **** or not?

suped.

suped.

New member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Location
WNC
I've heard varying reports on the D24 and D24T. Seems like some are dependable but slow workhorses and others are tiresome money pits.

Personal experiences?

Anyone know the power outputs? I'm seeing 110 hp/166 ft lbs and 127/203 tossed around for the turbo. Either are pretty impressive for a 2.4.
 
suped. said:
I've heard varying reports on the D24 and D24T. Seems like some are dependable but slow workhorses and others are tiresome money pits.

Personal experiences?

Anyone know the power outputs? I'm seeing 110 hp/166 ft lbs and 127/203 tossed around for the turbo. Either are pretty impressive for a 2.4.
Click to expand...

They're pretty good motors -- not as tolerant of absolute boneheaded stupidity and neglect as a redblock :-P, but capable of extreme long life and very low cost of ownership if treated with even a minimum of normal care and respect, which I assume you would plan on providing it.

They break when someone tries to work on them without correct tools and techniques -- they don't tolerate that at all. 90% of the time, someone tries to change the timing belts and cheat without the right stuff or skips steps, then the motor never runs correctly again, if it runs at all. This is what is the beginning of the end for most of the ones that die. A broken timing belt = death too, so can't neglect that. Otherwise, besides being old in general like anything else from this era, they're a robust design that only needs basic maintenance. Dependable and cheap to run.

As to why some are good and others are money pits -- see above for the answer why. Like anything else that's ~30 years old, there are ones that are in good shape and ones that aren't; what you start with matters. And then, what you do with it on your own determines the rest. If you get it fully sorted out and give it normal care, you can expect good results. If your plan is to give it the bare minimum and cut corners wherever you can, you can expect it to make you pay the price.

Some have made power far beyond the figures you mentioned, but as far as what's reliable and achievable for minimal cost in a daily driver, ~130-140hp is about right, with 200ish ft-lb. Intercooler, a little more boost, and exhaust are enough to get you near that level, if the rest of the package is in healthy shape. Stock HP from Euro TIC motor is ~122.
 
I seem to remember reading of an oiling problem on the six that wasn't a problem on the 4 and 5 cylinder. Try doing a search for D24 oiling problems.

Edit: Design flaw leading to low startup oil pressure. Synthetic oil highly recommended.
 
suped. said:
Anyone know the power outputs? I'm seeing 110 hp/166 ft lbs and 127/203 tossed around for the turbo. Either are pretty impressive for a 2.4.
Click to expand...
#Idon'tgooglebro????

In OK shape, it runs better than the old Benz and is about equal with BMW.
OEM in militarey applications past Y2K, it isn't that bad.

NA...are prolly pretty much boat anchor status by now, they weren't as good to start.
 
Surprised by the power numbers, the latter number is a fair bit more than a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel.
 
I purchased an '82 D24 new with intent of driving it forever and maintained it to try to accomplish that. Changed the oil with Diesel spec oil every 3000 miles like a religion. At 180k miles it was worn to the point of not starting. Very disappointing.

Along the way the timing belt broke at about 60k miles on the second belt, broke the cam and bent a couple valves. Replaced the head and got another 50k miles out of it. Had the injectors rebuilt at 110k miles along with the injector pump. Pretty high dollar repair.

The initial 83hp was never adequate never mind whatever the torque might have been.

The car lives today without the D24 with a Ford 302 V8. See the link below.
 
Cams are known to break on d24s. I've seen one but never happen to me. The most important thing is to keep the motor cool and not overheat. The timming belt has a 60k belt intervals but best to be safe to change every 50k.

Its been a hit and miss for me for the diesels. I really like the d24t and m46 combo.
 
Cam timing belt broke, pistons hit valves which broke the highly tempered hollow cam. Couple small dents in two pistons but not bad so I put it back together with a new head and rolled on for another 50k miles.

Never had an over heating problem.
 
v8volvo said:
Based on what?

Spent much time around them? What are the specific issues you're referring to?
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Based on what you say?
Common knowledge. With the arrival of the 240 series Volvo bought the 5 cylinder version of the VW 4 cylinder n.a. diesel for Nordic market taxis and the 6 cylinder version for export..

You spent much time around them? They why don't you know?
2.0 R5 D 51kW

identification
parts code prefix: ???, ID code: CN
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline five engine (R5/I5); 1,986 cubic centimetres (121.2 cu in); bore x stroke 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in ? 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 397.1 cc per cylinder; compression ratio: 22.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; six main bearings
cylinder head & valvetrain
cast aluminium alloy; two valves per cylinder, single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
aspiration
cast aluminium intake manifold, cast iron exhaust manifold
fuel system
mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl chamber
DIN-rated motive power & torque output
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,400 rpm; 140 newton metres (103 lbf?ft) @ 2,800 rpm
application
Audi 100 (10/78-7/89), Volvo 240

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2.4 R6 D24 51-60kW
Main article: Volkswagen D24 engine

identification
parts code prefix: 075, 076
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline six (R6/I6) diesel (D); 2,383 cubic centimetres (145.4 cu in); bore x stroke: 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in ? 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 397.1 cc per cylinder, compression ratio: 22.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; seven main bearings, die?forged steel crossplane crankshaft, pressed steel oil sump
cylinder head & valvetrain
cast aluminium alloy; two valves per cylinder each with two concentric valve springs, timing belt-driven single overhead camshaft (SOHC) directly acting on shim-adjustable bucket tappet valve lifters
aspiration
cast aluminium alloy intake manifold, two cast iron exhaust manifolds
fuel system
Bosch mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl pre-combustion chamber
EWG-rated motive power & torque output, application, ID codes
55 kilowatts (75 PS; 74 bhp) ? Volkswagen Industrial Motor (761: 01/81-01/84, 751: 09/83-06/93)
DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) ? 1S, ACT
55 kilowatts (75 PS; 74 bhp) @ 4,000 rpm; 155 newton metres (114 lbf?ft) @ 2,800 rpm ? CP, DW
60 kilowatts (82 PS; 80 bhp) @ 4,700 rpm; 145 newton metres (107 lbf?ft) @ 2,000 rpm ? Volvo D24

applications
Volkswagen LT (CP: 08/78-11/82, DW: 12/82-07/92, 1S: 08/88-07/92, ACT: 08/92-12/95), Volvo 240, Volvo 740

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

People that care about engine internals have noticed a strong VW "fambly resemblance' in the bore/stroke/ rod lengths and journal diamerters and width between VW motors and the "Whiteblocks"---but aside from that nobody around here has troubled themselves to look at bore c-c and headbolt spacing...

So yeah Kenwood Chair comments are spot on
 
Interesting that they opted for another cylinder for the US market. Another case of "too slow for Americans?"
 
suped. said:
Interesting that they opted for another cylinder for the US market. Another case of "too slow for Americans?"
Click to expand...

Seems so... And from what I hear the n.a. Ds are truly slower than dogsh*t slow. Horribly slow...Funny enough the little 4s in old Rabbits were actually pretty OK if you knew to shift at like 1800rpm, get in into higher gear and then let it rev...

The turbo diesels on the other hand actually weren't bad...Not "good" but not BAD...
As for building just order VW parts and get extras..

I looked hard at a freinds he had here clogging the garage, and saw dimensionally the valves and crap were like early non hydraulic lifter gas stuff...and sinceirectly related to the amount of air, we were studying using GTI sized valves (41mm intake vs the diesel 37mm) and upgrading to a modern-er-er turbo and some sorta full load enrichment..
In the end it all got traded for some junk...one extra sump and manifold was swapped for a Toyota Supra MkIII third member so we could rob the LSD and stick it in the 4-Runner axle going into his 240.
Junk becomes soooper bitchin LSD.
 
John V said:
Seems so... And from what I hear the n.a. Ds are truly slower than dogsh*t slow. Horribly slow...Funny enough the little 4s in old Rabbits were actually pretty OK if you knew to shift at like 1800rpm, get in into higher gear and then let it rev...

The turbo diesels on the other hand actually weren't bad...Not "good" but not BAD...
As for building just order VW parts and get extras..

I looked hard at a freinds he had here clogging the garage, and saw dimensionally the valves and crap were like early non hydraulic lifter gas stuff...and sinceirectly related to the amount of air, we were studying using GTI sized valves (41mm intake vs the diesel 37mm) and upgrading to a modern-er-er turbo and some sorta full load enrichment..
In the end it all got traded for some junk...one extra sump and manifold was swapped for a Toyota Supra MkIII third member so we could rob the LSD and stick it in the 4-Runner axle going into his 240.
Junk becomes soooper bitchin LSD.
Click to expand...

Couldn't be worse than a 240TD. 65 hp pulling a 3500ish lb LWB wagon. Thought I'm still not sure if that's worse than my old 300TD, 80 hp and 3800ish lbs.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Oh it could be worse alright, just try to find someone willing and able to work on one.

:skullbones:
Click to expand...

I did alright with the ones I had. Drove my 240d for months with no glow plugs. :-P My wagon even had working SLS :oogle: .....That leaked all day, erryday.

The older Mercs are fine for working on. Engines require little attention, suspension and brakes are simple. Vacuum everything ruins them along with people that don't think you have to change the oil because its a diesel, dude. 86+, **** hit the fan with Mercedes.
 
Yes the D24 is slow, you can pretty much get out of the car and run faster than it acclerates, lol.
Its like driving a semi, it tach out pretty quick and you feel like you only moved 20 feet. Have to make some special tools to do work on it which isnt too bad but its a hassle. Then getting parts for one , well good luck on that one. Its not worth the headaches unless your a diesel freak and thats your thing.
 
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