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Old 03-24-2020, 04:09 PM   #1
colgate41
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Default In tank sending unit

I'm getting around to changing the in-tank fuel pump/sock on my 91' 740 turbo sedan. I've had fuel problems for a bit now and I suspect the in tank pump is bad and want to change it out. Long story short, I'm in NY and the car has also been in NY most of it's life so rust on things like this is a problem. I'm looking at the sending unit and trying to wiggle the hoses off and notice the elbows coming off the unit flexing or bending. The unit is covered in rust and I don't have high hopes of getting this out in one re-usable piece so I'm starting to look for a used unit but I have a question. I see some on eBay etc but with straight hose connections instead of the curved "elbow" try my current unit has. Are these straight and elbow units interchangeable or should I try and find one with the bent elbows like whats in the car now? I'll attach some photos of what I'm working with. Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:31 PM   #2
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I have been dealing with the same problem in my 1984 Volvo 244. Does your Volvo just shut down randomly as if it ran out of gas (even when it's got plenty of gas)? I replace the fuel pumps, same problem. Or sometimes I won't accelerate past 35mph and only sputters and backfires, then stalls.

My thirty-six year old fuel tank is filthy with rust and god knows what.
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:38 PM   #3
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I would try to get what the car had originally.

Old school radiator shops will flush the tank totally clean if you still have any around you. I had one done last year and it was surprisingly cheap. Total bill that included an internal protective coating was $100.

I (carefully not to scratch the tank coating) removed the undercoating from the tank before taking it there, and painted the exterior myself.
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Old 03-24-2020, 11:19 PM   #4
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I'm in NY as well, but my cars don't suffer from the same rust woes as yours does (I'm guessing you are upstate, while I am on Long Island). I'm sorry to say that I just sent a good one to the scrapyard on my 1992 944T a few days ago. I had replaced the in-tank pump recently, but forgot to take the entire assembly out as I stripped the car. By the time I realized it, I had the trunk full with crap and I wasn't in the mood to take it all out .

What I'm trying to say is that I'm pretty sure that someone here has what you are looking for. Post an ad in the wanted section, buy a new pump from IPD and you'll be back up and running in no time!

If you want most anything else, let me know. I stripped my 1992 944T pretty darn well.

If you are interested in a limited slip rear end, let me know. If you don't have one already, it will make your winters a lot nicer!
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_Rizzo View Post
I have been dealing with the same problem in my 1984 Volvo 244. Does your Volvo just shut down randomly as if it ran out of gas (even when it's got plenty of gas)? I replace the fuel pumps, same problem. Or sometimes I won't accelerate past 35mph and only sputters and backfires, then stalls.

My thirty-six year old fuel tank is filthy with rust and god knows what.
Well the car sat for a few years and Iíve been slowly going through it to make it turn key but have been having fuel problems here and there. Long story short I went to get gas the other day in town and barely made it back home. Car got to the gas station fine but then kept cutting out on the way home. Iíd have to keep restarting it and floor it to get any kind of power and then it would cut out again.

Before that it would be hard to start from cold and run very very rough to the point where Iíd have to give it gas for a minute or two until it settled down and smoothed out. Check engine light also came on.

So, Iím working from the back of the car forward. In tank pump and sock, then fuel filter, check the fuel pump and then injectors.
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
I would try to get what the car had originally.

Old school radiator shops will flush the tank totally clean if you still have any around you. I had one done last year and it was surprisingly cheap. Total bill that included an internal protective coating was $100.

I (carefully not to scratch the tank coating) removed the undercoating from the tank before taking it there, and painted the exterior myself.
Thanks for the tip. Iím gonna work on getting the sending unit out and see whatís up with that and source a used one if needed.
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadken View Post
I'm in NY as well, but my cars don't suffer from the same rust woes as yours does (I'm guessing you are upstate, while I am on Long Island). I'm sorry to say that I just sent a good one to the scrapyard on my 1992 944T a few days ago. I had replaced the in-tank pump recently, but forgot to take the entire assembly out as I stripped the car. By the time I realized it, I had the trunk full with crap and I wasn't in the mood to take it all out .

What I'm trying to say is that I'm pretty sure that someone here has what you are looking for. Post an ad in the wanted section, buy a new pump from IPD and you'll be back up and running in no time!

If you want most anything else, let me know. I stripped my 1992 944T pretty darn well.

If you are interested in a limited slip rear end, let me know. If you don't have one already, it will make your winters a lot nicer!
Thanks for the reply. Iím actually on Long Island, Nassau county. Car is mostly rust free aside from bolts, hose clamps and things like that. At some point in the cars life it had some kind of underbody spray. I think there may be a tiny hole in the floor but Iíd have to go look hard to find it.

Iíve owned the car 15 years and it was my daily for 6 of those years. Then got less and less use so now Iím trying to go through it and solve problems. This fuel problem is the latest but I know how much of a resource this site is and Iím thankful for all the help and tips.

Another member messaged me about a sending unit he may have. Just waiting to hear back from him. I know my current unit is going to put up a fight and itís worth it to me to get another one and not worry about being delicate with the removal. There is so much rust the couple hose clamps I got off simply turned to dust. Well, not really, but you know what I mean.

Thanks for the offer on parts. Iíll keep that in mind as I go through the car!

Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2020, 01:08 AM   #8
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I have a fuel sender from a 91 745t, send a pm if you decide you need one.
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Old 03-25-2020, 01:56 AM   #9
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OP. Your gas tank is plastic. You won’t need to do anything with it. I’ll get back to you about the sending unit in the morning. I just got home from work.
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:25 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
OP. Your gas tank is plastic. You wonít need to do anything with it. Iíll get back to you about the sending unit in the morning. I just got home from work.
Thanks. No rush.
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white855T View Post
I have a fuel sender from a 91 745t, send a pm if you decide you need one.
Thanks! Iíll let you know.
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:48 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
I would try to get what the car had originally.

Old school radiator shops will flush the tank totally clean if you still have any around you. I had one done last year and it was surprisingly cheap. Total bill that included an internal protective coating was $100.

I (carefully not to scratch the tank coating) removed the undercoating from the tank before taking it there, and painted the exterior myself.
This car will be with a tank made from plastic.
Easy to clean by your own.
Take care about the right unit
Later ones, IIRC 92+, will present you a funny fault: gauge say empty with tank full and opposite
Good luck, I would renew the whole unit under the car too, Kay
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Old 03-31-2020, 02:25 PM   #13
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I did this process a year or two ago replaced the whole sending unit. BTW Volvo now uses Scantech prepump motor. Came from them in a blue box.


I got a donor in good shape to replace the original and a new pump. There is quite a lot of variation in part numbers and styles.

I think mine had straight pipes and the donor had bent pipes. It worked well but eventually the bent hose pinched and it would die. Adding a metal 90 pipe in the plumbing fixed that. The ground wire may either have a connection in the socket or need to be grounded to the frame.

I would plan on needing to replace the hoses and clamps ( I used breeze clamps https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I had to cut a clamp off with a diagonal cutter as I recall.
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Old 03-31-2020, 02:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I did this process a year or two ago replaced the whole sending unit. BTW Volvo now uses Scantech prepump motor. Came from them in a blue box.


I got a donor in good shape to replace the original and a new pump. There is quite a lot of variation in part numbers and styles.

I think mine had straight pipes and the donor had bent pipes. It worked well but eventually the bent hose pinched and it would die. Adding a metal 90 pipe in the plumbing fixed that. The ground wire may either have a connection in the socket or need to be grounded to the frame.

I would plan on needing to replace the hoses and clamps ( I used breeze clamps https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I had to cut a clamp off with a diagonal cutter as I recall.
Thanks for the tips. Iím doing this in parts when the weather is nice enough. The clamps on the hoses simply snapped in two once I put any torque on them to remove so that actually helped. I have to tackle the filler hose next but it looks like Iíll have to get at that nut from below the car.

I got a used unit coming my way from a fellow t-bricker just because I know something is going to break on the one Iím trying to remove due to the rust etc.

Iíd be happy to replace the hoses, but Iím unsure the sizes Iíd need. Any help?

Thanks for the clamp link!
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Old 03-31-2020, 04:08 PM   #15
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The tank in my 88 765 is plastic. Sending unit from 92 960 that I have stashed away in storage is plastic.
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:09 PM   #16
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In terms of a tool to remove the big plastic nut...any ideas? I've searched but cant seem to find one for a 740. The only thing I've found is this, but it says it's for a 940. Hard to believe Volvo would change the design from 740 to 940 but would this fit my lock ring?

https://www.jbtools.com/lock-technol...waAilJEALw_wcB

If not, any tips to getting this thing off? I tried a flat head screw driver and a block of wood and all I was able to do was damage the lock ring itself. Not a big deal since I have a new one but any tips?

Thanks!
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:29 PM   #17
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It's the same tool for 700, 900, S90 V90 (-1998).

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...ender/1072793/

I have one if you want to rent it.
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:47 PM   #18
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It's the same tool for 700, 900, S90 V90 (-1998).

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...ender/1072793/

I have one if you want to rent it.
Pm sent.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:15 PM   #19
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delete

Last edited by Mr. V; 04-06-2020 at 03:34 AM..
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Old 04-04-2020, 02:58 PM   #20
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This damn thing is rust city USA. I've got a tool coming my way to help (hopefully) get the sending unit nut off but in the meantime I'm working on the attached hoses. Every clamp is beyond gone. I turn the ratchet and the head of the nut snaps off. The hoses coming from the sending unit are also in pretty bad shape so I might as well replace them since I'm doing this project. From what I can see, there are three different size hoses coming off the sending unit. The two hoses that are attached to the two bent elbow sections and one that looks like it comes from the gas filler neck area but not the big main filler neck hose (I might need to cut this and replace since the clamps are so far gone. Anyway, what diameter hoses do I need to replace the three I described?

Slow and steady. Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-04-2020, 04:38 PM   #21
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Also, is there a certain working psi I need to aim for?
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:19 AM   #22
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Don't forget to steryli[s|z]e these tools/parts you're getting, Colgate 41, right now is a bad time in history to be receiving used goods from other, especially in NY, Spain, or Italy.

I'm glad mine's not rusty like yours, but instead, it's awfully dusty - the car must have been used on gravel/metal roads for half its life:





I assume that hose clamp around the nut is not factory and that someone chucked it on there because they broke the nut or felt it wasn't tight enough/sealing well enough/etc - so I probably have some fun times ahead, and i can't get at my spare tank/pump/parts right now due to being 1.5 weeks into a 4 week hard lock down - essential travel only.

Re psi, the regulator takes care of that, if it's not faulty, you'll get the correct pressure, and if the pump can't produce it you'll get no or insufficient flow, but all EFI pumps can produce enough to overwhelm a factory rail pressure regulator. Or did you mean the hoses? If so, 50psi minimum, usually they're rated much much higher than that. If it's before the main pump then low pressure hose will be fine. If it's after the main pump and before the regulator good high pressure hose is needed. Return line low pressure hose is fine, until the end in the tank blocks one day
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:51 AM   #23
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I would probably drop the tank and do the work on the bench and be ready to source some parts.
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:06 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by FreeEMSFred View Post
Don't forget to steryli[s|z]e these tools/parts you're getting, Colgate 41, right now is a bad time in history to be receiving used goods from other, especially in NY, Spain, or Italy.

I'm glad mine's not rusty like yours, but instead, it's awfully dusty - the car must have been used on gravel/metal roads for half its life:





I assume that hose clamp around the nut is not factory and that someone chucked it on there because they broke the nut or felt it wasn't tight enough/sealing well enough/etc - so I probably have some fun times ahead, and i can't get at my spare tank/pump/parts right now due to being 1.5 weeks into a 4 week hard lock down - essential travel only.

Re psi, the regulator takes care of that, if it's not faulty, you'll get the correct pressure, and if the pump can't produce it you'll get no or insufficient flow, but all EFI pumps can produce enough to overwhelm a factory rail pressure regulator. Or did you mean the hoses? If so, 50psi minimum, usually they're rated much much higher than that. If it's before the main pump then low pressure hose will be fine. If it's after the main pump and before the regulator good high pressure hose is needed. Return line low pressure hose is fine, until the end in the tank blocks one day

I would take a mountain of dust any day over this north east rust! At some point in the cars life (I've owned it for almost 15 years now) it had a pretty serious undercoating which has helped with some things but yeah, this sending unit is a mess. I already broke one of the elbows off the sending unit itself trying to wiggle a hose off. Working on rusty cars I knew this was going to happen so I did get a working sending unit from another member and that's on its way to me.

The psi I was talking about was just for the 3 hoses that come off the sending unit. I'm trying to figure out their OD but this kind of thing, I always mess up (getting the correct size/type).

In reading and researching about this part of the car and the sending unit, I actually believe that big hose clamp on your sending unit nut is factory believe it or not. I think this was added to the 940/60 cars as just a failsafe. I could be wrong but that's what I read.

Thanks for the info and replying. The more I know, the less I can mess up
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:08 AM   #25
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I would probably drop the tank and do the work on the bench and be ready to source some parts.
I was thinking that, even with the correct tool on order. I have a feeling since the car sat for a bit and with all the rust I'm knocking loose that dropping the tank might be worth it. I have to take a better look at it today and see what's involved and how many rusty bolts I have to deal with and if It's even a battle worth fighting.

Also, once this is all done I might hit everything with a some sort of coating to protect from rust. Anyway have any suggestions?
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