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Old 06-30-2020, 10:46 PM   #1
Awaffa2003
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Default B23 ready to 16v swap

Hey all,

Finally have the funds and the time for the 16v swap on the motor out in the garage. At least I think I do haha.

So far all I've got are the motor and head. If anybody's got some 16v goodies please let me know, but my real question is, about what will I be looking at in $$$ to finish this swap?

Aside from that, I believe I've mentioned it here before, but I am also looking at picking up some itbs from Jenvey or another manufacturer to fit onto the kl racing DCOE pattern intake for the 16v head. Also fabricating a plenum for them that may turn into a necessity for a turbo, but thats in the future.

Thanks I'm advance!
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:40 PM   #2
fastcomet
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What’s is it going in? Here’s what’s I cam up with when I was thinking about doing it.
- recondition head-400-1000 depends how wild your going but to much work to use old worn head
- cams 500
- exhaust 200-500 depends if you use header or adapter
- pistons 600 new ones. Again to much work for worn pistons
- yoshifab timing belt set up 250
- ignition few options yoshifab or? 300-500
-yoshifab billet gear 200
- if going in 240 modify intake 150-200
-turbo well you can pick used and rebuild
-injector 300
- Chips or EMS -200-700.
- I had 1/2 of these parts. I decided to sell them and focus on the simplicity of the 8v. But I’m keeping my rebuilt head for later on. Numbers above are what I figured they could be cheaper. But?
Culbero is in here and he does excellent Volvo head work. He is highly recommended.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:41 PM   #3
Harlard
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Budget $1500 at least if you want it to not constantly break.
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Old 07-01-2020, 02:11 PM   #4
740atl
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You could do the whole thing on the cheap, the only fancy bit would be a round tooth crank gear necessary for the belt. Running square tooth small belt on the 16v is doomed for slipping (from experience). Klracing makes a nice setup that also includes a crank pulley ready for a trigger wheel... something the b23 block is missing.
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:14 PM   #5
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What chassis are you planning to put it in?

Here's what I used to put the 16v head in my 242. I'm running n/a LH2.4 currently.

-B23/230 head gasket (1378646)
-Melling VS1268 valve springs (97 Ford F-150 4.6L application)
-INA 034109309AD lifters (94 VW Golf 2.0L application)
-Loctite 510 to seal head/cam carrier
-INA 068109243F tensioner (86 VW TDI application)
-146t belt (Gates 5129)
-KL Racing crank gear (00242)
-KL Racing aux gear (couldn't find a spare 16v cam gear at the time)
-Yoshifab short 004 distributor
-"crab" distributor cap (9170259)
-NGK HE57 plug wires (94 Honda Accord)
-modified B234 intake manifold (stock runner length, moved throttle body underneath for clearance)
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Old 07-02-2020, 05:58 AM   #6
Awaffa2003
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It's going in a 1980 242. $1500 sounds great though, just got the Megasquirt ordered. I suppose that means I'll have to grab the yoshifab CAS adapter? I'm not familiar with the KL Racing trigger wheel.
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Old 07-02-2020, 06:52 AM   #7
740atl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awaffa2003 View Post
It's going in a 1980 242. $1500 sounds great though, just got the Megasquirt ordered. I suppose that means I'll have to grab the yoshifab CAS adapter? I'm not familiar with the KL Racing trigger wheel.
Yes, if you go with the yoshi adaptor you won’t need a crank trigger but you will still need the round tooth crank gear for the timing belt.
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Old 07-02-2020, 02:08 PM   #8
Awaffa2003
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I'm ordering from KL Racing now, oldschoolvolvo, that part number for the crank gear is for a B21, is there a difference for the B23? Is there a difference between those and the Yoshifab piece?

Also, my head has lifters and springs. Any reason to replace?
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:22 PM   #9
oldschoolvolvo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awaffa2003 View Post
I'm ordering from KL Racing now, oldschoolvolvo, that part number for the crank gear is for a B21, is there a difference for the B23? Is there a difference between those and the Yoshifab piece?

Also, my head has lifters and springs. Any reason to replace?
The B21/B23 use the same style crank gear AFAIK.
KL Racing has a few different p/ns depending on the "woodruff key" style.
https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...rev/index.html

I used the KL 00242 p/n and sourced my own key
https://i.imgur.com/nAei8cGl.jpg

I have not looked at a KL gear next to a Yoshifab gear. IMO they are both quality pieces. Maybe someone else has more direct experience.

When changing to the wider 16v crank gear the accessory belts are pushed forward by ~5mm. You can either machine down the crank pulley base accordingly or purchase a pulley from KL Racing that is offset to match (I chose the latter).
https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...ium/index.html

Regarding lifters / springs...I needed to put new lifters in my 16v head (they were missing) and chose to put stiffer springs in at the same time. It's up to you if you want to replace the springs, but if you have the head apart already it's prime time to do the job. You don't need to replace the springs, but if you want to increase the redline at all in the future you should put in the stiffer springs or risk valve float at high rpm.

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 07-02-2020 at 07:50 PM..
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Old Yesterday, 10:12 AM   #10
VB242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awaffa2003 View Post
I'm ordering from KL Racing now, oldschoolvolvo, that part number for the crank gear is for a B21, is there a difference for the B23? Is there a difference between those and the Yoshifab piece?

Also, my head has lifters and springs. Any reason to replace?
B21 and B23 use the same crank gear setup, I just took one off a B21 and put it on my B23 last week.
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