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Old 06-30-2020, 09:55 PM   #1
240Pete
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Default 93 240 LH2.4, cant find the 25A fuse holder

This is gonna sound crazy, but I can't find the 25A main fuel injection fuse on my friend's 1993 240. The Bentley manual shows it next to the junction block, it ain't there, or anywhere else in the engine compartment that I can see. I watched a couple of youtube videos and it looked pretty straightforward to me but I swear it's not there. Did they move this fuse to somewhere less exposed?

Any info would be welcome. Thanks all.
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:28 PM   #2
hiperfauto
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The wiring for '93 is a bit different. Here's a link the greenbook.

https://greenbook-archive.s3.ap-sout...0305420be768fa
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:30 PM   #3
ZVOLV
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There isn't one. Circuits in the fuse block in the cabin replaced it.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:12 AM   #4
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When you can't find the fuse under the hood (91,92,93) it is #6 in the panel inside.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:16 AM   #5
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Nice of Volvo to be making changes even in the last year of production. Even in the last half of the last (shortened) year of production. AFAIK that positive battery terminal fuse block was used for only part of 93.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Nice of Volvo to be making changes even in the last year of production. Even in the last half of the last (shortened) year of production. AFAIK that positive battery terminal fuse block was used for only part of 93.
Yes, one last eff you. 93s can be problematic.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Yes, one last eff you. 93s can be problematic.
Some shuffling around of relay positions happened as well.
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:00 PM   #8
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There were 3 different harnesses for 93.....ask me how I know. The PAL fuse holder on the battery was discontinued mid-year (fire hazard is one excuse I've heard - and I've seen several melted PAL holders in yards), yet the green manuals - even last revision - still showed the PAL holder there with no notation of any variance. There was also variations in plug end types where the engine harness connects to the dash. The inmates had taken over by then.
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Old 07-01-2020, 07:55 PM   #9
John242Ti
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1991-early 1993 had fuse 6, then came the PAL holder on the battery terminal, and finally the third harness.

Last LH-Jet 240 that had the 25A ATC fuse was the final 1990 LH 2.4 240 made.
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Old 07-02-2020, 01:39 PM   #10
dl242gt
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My car being a classic is right at the end of production. It has the PAL fuse holder on the battery terminal. About ten years ago I had to replace the battery terminal section due to corrosion. Thankfully a gold plated marine battery terminal fit like it was made for it. An annual cleaning with electrical cleaner helps.
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Old Yesterday, 06:12 PM   #11
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Update. The reason I was hoping to find this non-existent (in this case) fuse is that I'm diagnosing a no-start for my buddy.

After swapping out both Computers with known good units, we still had no start. We do have spark, but the injectors are not firing.

Initially, I couldn't get any codes from the self diagnostic. However after changing the crank sensor, I'm getting code 144. This is a low mile car that has recently had all of the normal maintenance stuff done a week or so before the no start. Timing belt has been rechecked and is perfect, plugs, wires, cap rotor all good. Like i said, we have spark, just the Injectors won't fire.
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Old Yesterday, 10:00 PM   #12
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Do you hear it prime the pumps when you first turn it on? If you're not getting any diag box codes when the probe is in socket #2 (ECU), but you are getting codes from socket #6 (EZK), try replacing the fuel pump relay. If you don't have a spare, you could try removing and reinstalling the one you have and then tap on it with the key on to see if you can get the pumps to prime.
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Old Yesterday, 10:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Do you hear it prime the pumps when you first turn it on? If you're not getting any diag box codes when the probe is in socket #2 (ECU), but you are getting codes from socket #6 (EZK), try replacing the fuel pump relay. If you don't have a spare, you could try removing and reinstalling the one you have and then tap on it with the key on to see if you can get the pumps to prime.
I don't have a spare but will try this. However, I did bypass the relay and the pumps work fine.

I checked voltage at the red/black wire with the key on and only had about .6 volts, so I checked the ground on the intake manifold and as I removed it the voltage jumped up to 8.5. According to cleanflametrap, I should have full battery voltage at this red/black wire when all is normal.

Anybody ever run into this?
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