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Old 01-29-2016, 01:24 AM   #76
PardoR
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
You need to repeat this test. You need to have the proper resistance reading to the EZK and the LH Box. It sounds like you do NOT have a ECT sensor signal going to the EZK box. You should have approx 2300 ohms at 63 degrees F/ 17 degrees centigrade.

If you still do not get a reading, test for continuity between the EZK pin 2 and the corresponding pin on the ECT sensor. Reading should be close to zero ohms. If open, you have an open circuit in that wire.

My current theory is that your ECU is in "limp mode" where it will default to RICH because of missing ECT signal.

What codes do you have and which pin are they coming from (2 or 6)?
On the weekend will have more info about the car. A truck bring the car near to my home....
I have discarded the ECT issue because the error code (DTC) has gone by putting the right ECT for the LH2.4 instead the wrong one installed before (an ECT LH2.2)
So:
-The ECT code has gone putting the right ECT LH2.4 =the engine behaves a little better
- replacing the OEM bosch 3 BAR FPR instead the older perforated fpr: the engine get better a lot! The strong engine shakes were gone and the huge amount of black smoke has almost dissappeared.... But not at all, so the next step (tell me your opinions) will be replace the injector driver transistor on ECU. Is cheap... OR perform the injectors test with the obd test mode 3
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Old 01-29-2016, 01:30 AM   #77
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So (the injectors) have a constant 12v but are only firing when the ecu grounds them?
Yes.


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Could this rich running issue be from some kind of short in the injector wiring, causing it to ground intermittently when it doesn't need to, making it rich?
I like that you have come up with such a thought, but that won't be the case here. If some injector happened to be grounded all the time via a short in the loom, there would be a steady misfire on that cylinder. This scenario, based on the information and videos, it seems the OP has a car that runs and drives right now, but smokes at idle and throws a CEL.

A misfire at idle is easy to detect because you will feel the car shake, at least on a 4 banger, possibly a 6, 8 banger you may not feel a dead cylinder. The best low tech method I like for detecting a dead miss at idle is putting my hand over the tailpipe. Go try it yourself. Go start your car, feel exhaust, disconnect an injector; NOT a plug wire. Unburned fuel in exhaust can damage cat, and NOW go put your hand over the exhaust. You will feel the a very different and distinct pulsing of the exhaust due to the misfire on a 4 banger Volvo strongly with just your hand near the tailpipe.

I fried an ECU once by forgetting to put high resistance injectors in and everytime I turned the key on, the injectors WERE going full blast. Car wouldn't start.


"Limp mode" is when a computer is missing a very important signal, like coolant temp (ECT sensor) or MAF sensor. It doesn't know if the engine is cold or hot, so it cannot compute the correct mixture, so to be safe, it opts for a very rich mixture. Lean can blow and engine and cause misfires. Misfires can damage the cat very very fast.


AGAIN, OP needs to check the resistance readings for the ECT sensor by backprobing at the EZK box, and also at the LH box. Make sure the signal is getting all the way to the computer and is an accurate resistance reading. Simple resistance reading between each pin and a good clean ground.
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Old 01-29-2016, 01:54 AM   #78
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(ECT error code gone)
That is good!

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...next step...replace the injector driver transistor on ECU.
The car runs and drives, so I don't see why you think it's bad.

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perform the injectors test with the obd test mode 3

The car runs and drives. Your injectors and computer ARE working.


You need to test the fuel mixture at this point. Start with measuring 02 sensor voltage. Find the single wire for the 02 sensor. Check voltage as I mentioned. Create and airleak (lean out the mixture) by disconnected a hose or two and see if the smoke goes away....???? That would be an easy test.


You also should check fuel pressure. Restricted fuel return line could cause the fuel pressure to be too high=rich.
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:22 PM   #79
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Well, after some days here I have an update:

I have not enough time to attend the Volvo, so I left it on a indy shop. The mechanc guy was trained in Sweden by volvo for over 17 years, so I guess there is no best hands to solve this issue.
The guy found: pre pump not working, the wrong spark plugs (bosch wr7dc) and too high compression due to soot. Everything else is ok. But the thing that is making me noise is: the guy said the pre pump is not working and the fuel pump is caught fuel with a lot of bubbles (Wtf?) , so the ECU is crazy receiving wrong info due the bubbles. The alternator belts are loosened , noisy and wasted , and the battery not charging properly. So after all this he said that if everything are fixed, the car could stop the high consumption and black smoke and soot.
What do you think ?
For me has no sense the bubbles...but if he was trained at volvo..... Let's see how it goes

Last edited by PardoR; 02-17-2016 at 11:35 AM..
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:02 AM   #80
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Up!
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:31 AM   #81
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The bubbles your mechanic is referring to are caused by cavitation.
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:42 AM   #82
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What do you think ?
We will see how good your mechanic is!
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:18 AM   #83
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This is not confirmation, just circumstantial, but I once had a over-rich closed-loop idle condition when my in-tank pre-pump was working but simply weak. This was with a similar LH2.4 '93. Being able to read the fuel pressure while the symptom is present is useful for diagnostics. Seeing it on a gauge right next to an O2 sensor reading was golden.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:34 PM   #84
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Good and bad news:

The mechanic fix the smoke issue (yeah!!) but it still does not start by itself .... Now I'm on the way to the shop... Later I post the tech dialogue.
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:15 PM   #85
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Well, the car drives outstanding, like never before I drove it. But the start is still not fixed. The mechanic change : O2 sensor, pre pump, spark plugs and change the alternator belts. Nothing better for the volvo... About the start: he connected a direct wire to battery and the car starts perfectly, but from the key doesn't.... I know that now is not my business, the guy is doing his job, but always I'd good to know the reasons why the thing I'd not working properly. Any thoughts? Gracias a todos por este hilo tan comentado
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:47 AM   #86
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Good and bad news:

but it still does not start by itself ....
What do you mean by that? Is the starter motor turning when you turn the key? or not?

Sometimes the starter solenoid (relais) goes bad. If this is the case the starter will not turn. Sometimes it helps to hit the solenoid with a stick. But that is only a temporary fix.

In other cases the switch behind the lock goed bad. Same result, startermotor will not turn.

Maybe the car has an electronic start lock fitted? Like those that you need to unlock with a code or a push on a button before you can start the engine.

in general: on these older cars it is a good idea to check and clean all ground connections like the ones between block and body (any corroded ground straps need top be replaced), between battery-ground and body, between alternator and block, between fuel gallery and body, any ground connection from the LH ECU to body. Even the lambda sensor in the exhaust needs a good ground connection (via block to body to battery ground terminal.)
Bad ground connections can cause all sorts of weird problems... It's worth making the effort.

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Old 02-25-2016, 10:54 AM   #87
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Starter going bad, starter solenoid getting stuck, going bad, ignition switch going bad, Wires to starter, ground no good, must check.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:01 AM   #88
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I'm going to guess he is saying no crank from the key, but hot wire solenoid and it will start. So bad ignition switch or neutral safety.

Try wiggling the gear shifter (if auto) while turning the key or see if it will crank in neutral.
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:04 AM   #89
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Well pals, this story is over
The ignition contact switch were sell wrong to my model 1993. The part is suitable for older 240 and I had to reinstall the old one volvo original piece.
The car starts perfectly and drives nicely.
So, a brief flashback of this nightmare is:
The car was burning huge amounts of fuel
Black smoke, soot, pcv clogged, CEL ON, obd codes for ECT and faulty injectors.
The following parts were replaced with new ones:
-All this stuff from ipd-
ECT for lh2.4 (it had an 2.2 blue ect)
New pcv kit
New FPR
O2 sensor
New pre pump (useless the older one)
New spark plugs
New fuel filter, oil and oil filter
New alternator belts

The fpr were perforated; the ect were wrong to my engine; O2 were useless; pcv clogged; fuel filter very old; pre pump not working;original ignition contact switch
And all bad symptoms dissappeared
MANY THANKS TO ALL
SALUDOS DESDE CHILE

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Old 02-27-2016, 04:11 AM   #90
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!Muy bien! Awesome. Glad you got it sorted!
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Old 02-27-2016, 05:10 AM   #91
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!Muy bien! Awesome. Glad you got it sorted!
Gracias a ti por el apoyo personal; te debo unas cold beers and chilean wine
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