Got my head back today. Everything looks good. Milled .070" off the head (which had never been milled), smoothed out the exhaust ports and ground down the lip underneath the valve faces, 30* intake valves, 3-angle exhausts with 45* valves, Isky double valve springs with steel retainers, Isky pushrods and lifters. It's all buttoned up on the block with the valves adjusted to .016". Tomorrow I'll fill it with oil and coolant and crank it up. Fingers crossed that whatever my problem was before is gone now.
Did you check for coil bind this time ? Also... I take it that after removing the .070" of the head's surface, you did check the pushrods for length/operation? And valve guide length/interference issues? They *could possibly be* too long now (removed.070" from head)
Shaving the head can *possibly* make the pushrods
act as if they were "longer",
further complicating coil bind, and or valve guide length issues.
You may very well be OK, but... *you won't know for sure* (until it's too late) unless you check. Because
just crossing your fingers doesn't check nor readjust clearances/lengths ya know.........
Also,
on most engines.... the intake valve clearance
is less than the exhaust valve clearance.
Usually the exhaust valves are set .02 to to .03. looser than the intakes. Of course this varies from engine to engine (brand/size/designation/family etc)
This due to exhaust valve needs more clearance due to it's greater heat expansion.
The book says .016-.018 for all. JUST FOR NOW...
I highly suggest to set the all valve clearances , especially the exhaust valves , a bit *on the loose side* until things break in/wear in.
Why? Because when valves have been ground, and new lifters/camshaft have been installed, you need to allow for break in of new valve train parts. You do not want the exhaust valves to 'run too tight" because you'll might burn the valve/s
This will keep you from *possibly* burning one of more exhaust valves while they bed/break in. Might want to re-adjust the valves to allow for this.......
I'd set the exhaust valves a thousandths or two looser than the intakes. At least until you get some miles on the engine and break in the valve train. You stated you set
all valves to .016".
Also don't expect the machine shop to check for pushrod length/valve guide length issues. Unless of course they have the rest of the engine (and the cam installed in it) there too.
You need to do this before cranking/running the engine too
Just trying to help.........