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Old 11-06-2019, 12:21 AM   #1
iamrolling
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Default Garrett Manifold on Mitsubishi Turbo?

The Mitsubishi manifold on my 93 945 Turbo Wagon is badly cracked around the outlet in both directions. It looks like it is trying to rip itself into four pieces. Every single one of these Mitsubishi manifolds that appears for sale comes pre-cracked.
I don't have a lot of money to work with. Maybe $200, give or take. What I want to do is replace this piece of crap with a Garrett manifold. I see that there are adapter plates to adapt the Mitsubishi turbo to the Garrett manifold. But how much of everything around the turbo will require modification?
The adapter plate has a total depth of 8.75mm, half of which is the round step for the TD04 inlet. I'm not even sure if the adapter is needed, because the Garrett manifold outlets appear to have the same round step as the Mitsubishi manifold. But either way, would the TD04 wind up in a similar enough location that I won't have to cut and splice the hard oil return tube? Will the (stock) exhaust still bend enough to mate with the turbo exhaust port? Will the coolant hoses have just enough give to stretch to the new location? I get the impression you guys have a lot of parts lying around, so I'd appreciate any measurements you can give.
It's probably going to turn out to be a lot of work for a low double digit HP loss, but I'd rather have peace of mind that my exhaust manifold won't split in half and fill the cab with exhaust within 10,000 miles.
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Old 11-06-2019, 12:50 AM   #2
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You can have the manifold repaired. Send it off to yoshifab. https://yoshifab.com/store/90-exhaus...k-service.html
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Old 11-06-2019, 01:06 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by white855T View Post
You can have the manifold repaired. Send it off to yoshifab. https://yoshifab.com/store/90-exhaus...k-service.html
I wish I had the luxury of not using the car for several days to weeks, but it's the only one I have. Can't drive it without an exhaust manifold. Don't even bother saying it. I know how stupid it is to have a 940 as a daily driver, especially if you're broke. I appreciate the recommendation, but all of my options involve keeping the 4-piece manifold attached until I can get a replacement and the required hardware.
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Old 11-06-2019, 01:18 AM   #4
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Though I did see this on the page:
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Sometimes we have cores, call to inquire.
I'll try calling them. Maybe this can be done with only a few days of work missed.
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Old 11-06-2019, 04:39 AM   #5
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Found a thread about the adapting the Mitsubishi manifold to the Garrett turbo. On this forum, funnily enough.
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=336694
Here is the relevant information:
Quote:
90+ bolted right on my b21ft with stock turbo. 1981 California car if that makes a difference
This tells me that the outlet flange is in roughly the same spot, and that the round step is the same with both Garrett and Mitsubishi turbos on Volvos. Another post mentions a manifold O2 sensor opening that needs to be plugged. Also the support bracket is different and may require improvisation.
But white855t from this thread had this to say:
Quote:
You can probably bend the oil feed line to work but the oil return will need to be changed. It it not necessary to machine the manifold flat as it will work fine without doing it.
So if the repair option doesn't turn out viable for my case, there's the (also Yoshifab) AN fitting oil return conversion. I assume the coolant hoses will reach with no problem because there was nothing written about that. (edit: because that thread covered an oil cooled turbo, duhhhh)

I'll be honest about my situation: I didn't give myself enough time to source a manifold, and I'm a week away from inspection. But it only cracked wide open yesterday, in my defense. It passed the last time while the crack was smaller. I applied some Thermosteel and it's behaving like it was before the crack really opened up, but it's only a matter of weeks before the patch will fail and the car tries again to asphyxiate me.

Last edited by iamrolling; 11-06-2019 at 04:44 AM..
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Old 11-06-2019, 07:59 AM   #6
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I don't really understand why you'd go through all this instead of just getting a replacement 90+ manifold?

Post an ad in the wanted section. I'm almost sure there are people on here that have a 90+ manifold in their parts stash.
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Old 11-06-2019, 12:27 PM   #7
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I don't really understand why you'd go through all this instead of just getting a replacement 90+ manifold?

Post an ad in the wanted section. I'm almost sure there are people on here that have a 90+ manifold in their parts stash.
Just made a post in the classifieds section. Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2019, 12:35 PM   #8
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I was at Yoshifab last week getting a manifold converted for a T3. It involved changing the stud holes from 8mm to 10mm, removing the round step for the Mitsubishi mounting and opening up the hole to match the T3 turbo. I don't think you can really go back from that. No pick a parts near you?
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Old 11-06-2019, 12:38 PM   #9
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An issue you didn't mention is the old Garrett manifolds use 10mm through bolts to hold the T3 turbo. Mistu turbos use 8mm studs and you'll have a lot of play if you just try to hold it on the old style manifold.

The old style manifolds warp because the runners are not joined together like the 90+ ones are. A good local welding shop can weld your manifold or do the exchange with yoshifab. I've had the cracks welded and they work great afterward.
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:37 PM   #10
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An issue you didn't mention is the old Garrett manifolds use 10mm through bolts to hold the T3 turbo. Mistu turbos use 8mm studs and you'll have a lot of play if you just try to hold it on the old style manifold.
Have you never heard of drill bits and taps??
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Old 11-06-2019, 07:39 PM   #11
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Have you never heard of drill bits and taps??
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Old 11-07-2019, 12:03 AM   #12
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This thread ended up answering everything I needed to know, even if the conclusion is that I'm stupid for even thinking about it. It sounds doable, but I like the sound of warpage at the inlet side even less than the risk of the manifold cracking. I already have someone offering to sell me a manifold on the classifieds board, so if I hear back from him the problem is solved. Thanks everyone.
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Old 11-08-2019, 01:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Have you never heard of drill bits and taps??
Not very much room on the turbine housing on the mitsu turbos for 10mm studs and locknuts. Don't think they fit well. The op is trying to put a turbo with 8mm stud holes on a manifold that already uses 10mm through bolts. Special 10mm through bolts. I guess if the 10mm studs will work on the Mitsu turbine housing he is OK and just has to drill out the turbine housing.
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Old 11-08-2019, 01:56 PM   #14
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so drill and tap the turbine housing
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Old 11-08-2019, 04:15 PM   #15
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Yeah then screw the studs from the manifold into the turbine housing. Then into the manifold. Or the other way, spin the turbo on!

Fun thread!
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Old 11-09-2019, 01:41 AM   #16
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Can I derail my thread if the issue has been solved? I have a question about something from sbabbs's signature.
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1990 745 B230FT Getrag JohnV flywheel 240mm clutch 13c A-cam 3.54 G80 548K MILES
How's that B230FT run with 548k miles? Did you have to change anything in the bottom end yet? What's the B230FT like with the A cam?
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Old 11-09-2019, 04:02 PM   #17
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Glad you got it sorted out. What did you do?
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Old 11-09-2019, 05:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Glad you got it sorted out. What did you do?
A guy on here sold me a 90+ manifold which should be arriving soon. I gave up on the idea of using the Garrett manifold because of the possibility of warpage at the inlet. The modifications wouldn't be too bad, but it would still be a lot of work just to move the problem back 4 inches. When I get the replacement manifold I'll probably send the old one out to Yoshifab to repair.
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:19 PM   #19
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Not anymore, put in 30 dollars of super clear and melted a piston last summer.. Dammit. Yeah bottom end was all stock original. Got another junkyard running motor to put in. A cam is great cam. Ran 12.61 with an A cam and 15g in the past.

Simon
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Old 11-09-2019, 09:30 PM   #20
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Not anymore, put in 30 dollars of super clear and melted a piston last summer.. Dammit. Yeah bottom end was all stock original. Got another junkyard running motor to put in. A cam is great cam. Ran 12.61 with an A cam and 15g in the past.

Simon
Damn. I'll just keep doing those 3,000 mile oil changes then. I'm only at 287,800.
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
An issue you didn't mention is the old Garrett manifolds use 10mm through bolts to hold the T3 turbo. Mistu turbos use 8mm studs and you'll have a lot of play if you just try to hold it on the old style manifold.

The old style manifolds warp because the runners are not joined together like the 90+ ones are. A good local welding shop can weld your manifold or do the exchange with yoshifab. I've had the cracks welded and they work great afterward.
Step studs: M10 on one end, M8 on the other end.
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Old 11-13-2019, 07:01 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Step studs: M10 on one end, M8 on the other end.
I had no idea these existed. I'll have to remember these if I ever end up in a situation where there are no usable Mitsubishi manifolds left on earth.
The manifold I ordered from a user on here has arrived, but I already passed inspection. I have to admit, ThermoSteel is good stuff. And this is a good car. 288k and still well within legal emissions limits. And all I did was bang the dirt out of my 30,000 mile old air filter and soak my 80,000 mile old oxygen sensor in gasoline. Just make sure that it's completely dry before putting it back. I let it sit out overnight, but I still suspect that a small amount of fuel inside the sensor housing might have been what finished off my exhaust manifold.
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