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Pig: '79 242 16vT

w00! What are you showing us with the pictures of the block and pistons? I’m on my phone and don’t notice anything obviously of concern.

So, yes there was a loan head gasket but the compression was from the bad valve seating? This setup has had low(er) compression on one cylinder for a while, right?

Anywho, bummer on the injector driver failure and all the work.

Oh, and why the intercooler change out?

That being said, yay for fixes! Maybe there’s a dyno in your future?

Also, maybe another trip to the strip and maybe I can make it out… Fingers crossed. It’d be nice to drive my junker again one day this year. Probably won’t race it as it’ll make your slow look fast.

Speaking of your slow, have you considered weighing your fat, luxe beast recently? Maybe it’s part of why it’s so slow. Oh, and because of the cams. :-P
 
klr142 said:
w00! What are you showing us with the pictures of the block and pistons? I’m on my phone and don’t notice anything obviously of concern.
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I've done that before on a motor with the head already off, as a sort of half-assed condition check on the rings. Pour oil at even heights into all 4 cylinders, and let it sit for a while. See if any cylinder empties out faster than the others. If one stands out, pull that piston and see what's up.
 
Carbon build-up in the rings can also affect that, so putting something that can break it down in there while apart is a good idea, too. Now that I'm on the computer I can see that there's a lot of fluid in there. Whatcha up to, Harlard?
 
klr142 said:
w00! What are you showing us with the pictures of the block and pistons? I?m on my phone and don?t notice anything obviously of concern.

So, yes there was a loan head gasket but the compression was from the bad valve seating? This setup has had low(er) compression on one cylinder for a while, right?

Anywho, bummer on the injector driver failure and all the work.

Oh, and why the intercooler change out?

That being said, yay for fixes! Maybe there?s a dyno in your future?

Also, maybe another trip to the strip and maybe I can make it out? Fingers crossed. It?d be nice to drive my junker again one day this year. Probably won?t race it as it?ll make your slow look fast.

Speaking of your slow, have you considered weighing your fat, luxe beast recently? Maybe it?s part of why it?s so slow. Oh, and because of the cams. :-P
Click to expand...

Man, so many questions!!

Yes, #1 has always been down, but it went a further 30 psi from last test. I probably overheated the head during the first test start, which caused the valve to leak. We'll see whether the fixed valve brings back 60 PSI. I'm out of ideas otherwise.

More on the injector driver failure below...

Intercooler in the stock location crazy heat soaks between radiator and AC condenser on warm days

Maybe dyno. It's expensive to tune and this combination is already going to be replaced by a stroker block and a more turbine flow-optimized turbo setup, so the value proposition is not entirely there for me at present.

Hoping for at least one night at PIR in September. Judging by how hot and dry this year has been so far, I expect late night drags to go until November :omg:

As for slow and fat...yeah I need to borrow Marc's scales. This unscheduled teardown has gotten in the way somewhat.


JohnMc said:
I've done that before on a motor with the head already off, as a sort of half-assed condition check on the rings. Pour oil at even heights into all 4 cylinders, and let it sit for a while. See if any cylinder empties out faster than the others. If one stands out, pull that piston and see what's up.
Click to expand...

klr142 said:
Carbon build-up in the rings can also affect that, so putting something that can break it down in there while apart is a good idea, too. Now that I'm on the computer I can see that there's a lot of fluid in there. Whatcha up to, Harlard?
Click to expand...


Yeah it's a half assed ring leakdown test. #3 was a bit alarming. It was down 15 psi from the last test, from last year. It drained a bit faster than 1 and 4. 2 is still holding its drink. I'll run another leakdown before the cams go in.

But yeah, I'm mildly concerned that the fuel wash on that hole may have hurt the rings a bit. Walls don't look terrible but they don't look great, either.

esmth said:
pro-vents put in work let me tell ya. You draining it back to the sump?
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Yes sir! It's going to go right in front of the master cylinder and will train into the Yoshifab plate. It's been sitting for literally years
 
I see! Make sure you duct between the condenser and radiator with the intercooler out of there now. Makes sense, though!
 
Can you go into more detail about your T5 speed sensor VSS?

What sensor did you end up using?

Did you need the Dakota box to convert the signal from the sensor into a digital signal for your MS? If so what sort of signal was the sensor out putting?

I plan on MaxxECU, and it has a note about setting max hz at 10000 *if* you don't have signal interference.

I planned on getting my signal from the T5 box. I saw some Mustangs used a speed signal and cable for cruise control. I contemplated trying that sensor with a Yoshi cable to start.

Sorry to see more problems. Hopfully it's just the valve.
 
It's just the way it works when you get in way over your knowledge and experience level. It happens to be the way I learn best, and thus a journey of personal growth...or something.

As for VSS I'm using an ABS wheel sensor up front (48t) and the stock 2004 Mustang VSS in the tailshaft of the trans (8t). This particular model does not use a cable speedometer drive. Both VSS1 and VSS2 use DIY Auto Tune conditioner circuits feeding my MS3X ECU. The problem is that the ECU itself can only handle 3 high speed digital inputs; 2 are used for cam and crank signal, the last one for VSS1. The problem now is that the channel leftover for VSS2 loses sync at roughly 80 mph. The input simply cannot handle it.

As for the cruise/cable combo sensor, you will need a different cable than what Josh offers. The clip is different on the trans side vs the plastic housing of the sensor. I ended up not using that on my previous transmission as it looked like the speedo cable would foul on the tunnel.

To drive my R-sport cluster, I have a Dakota Digital box with a custom made cable. The signal input is fed by one of the ignition outputs of the ECU.
 
Harlard said:
It's just the way it works when you get in way over your knowledge and experience level. It happens to be the way I learn best, and thus a journey of personal growth...or something.

As for VSS I'm using an ABS wheel sensor up front (48t) and the stock 2004 Mustang VSS in the tailshaft of the trans (8t). This particular model does not use a cable speedometer drive. Both VSS1 and VSS2 use DIY Auto Tune conditioner circuits feeding my MS3X ECU. The problem is that the ECU itself can only handle 3 high speed digital inputs; 2 are used for cam and crank signal, the last one for VSS1. The problem now is that the channel leftover for VSS2 loses sync at roughly 80 mph. The input simply cannot handle it.

As for the cruise/cable combo sensor, you will need a different cable than what Josh offers. The clip is different on the trans side vs the plastic housing of the sensor. I ended up not using that on my previous transmission as it looked like the speedo cable would foul on the tunnel.

To drive my R-sport cluster, I have a Dakota Digital box with a custom made cable. The signal input is fed by one of the ignition outputs of the ECU.
Click to expand...

Being way over your knowledge and experience level is how I got to where I am in my career.

I guess I better decide on a dash board/cluster/gauges/input I'm going to run since it seems to all be intertwined.

My really quick google search shows swapping output shafts and tail shaft housing to run a later VSS. That can't be correct is it? I'm mid vacation with a T5 half assembled on my bench at home. I'm going to have to figure this out before I get back and finish assembling it. Google to the rescue tomorrow I guess.
 
GTJordan said:
Being way over your knowledge and experience level is how I got to where I am in my career.

I guess I better decide on a dash board/cluster/gauges/input I'm going to run since it seems to all be intertwined.

My really quick google search shows swapping output shafts and tail shaft housing to run a later VSS. That can't be correct is it? I'm mid vacation with a T5 half assembled on my bench at home. I'm going to have to figure this out before I get back and finish assembling it. Google to the rescue tomorrow I guess.
Click to expand...

The mainshafts and extension housings of the internal VSS transmissions are different. Certainly doable but from a cost standpoint it's much easier to get a 2004 V6 box.

As for the dash electronics: yes, I'd very much do some scenario planning before hitting the buy button!

For better or for worse I can't really make any direct application of this hobby toward my day job other than having a talking point when shooting the **** with coworkers. It is what it is.
 
Added quite a few little time-consuming items to my to-do list as they are much easier to tackle when big components are apart. Nothing too interesting; heater bypass hoses, hydraulic line routing, heat shielding, cleaning, cleaning, more cleaning, painting, polishing cam bearings/journals, improving the wire harness routing, adding a timing belt cover. At this point before firing it up, the few items left are adding water cooling to the turbo CHRA and the wastegate, making a new bracket for the power steering and new PCV box as they are mounted next to each other, and routing/clamping down all of the associated hoses. I might try running a little 680-sized AGM and clean up the wiring. Chances are that I?ll leave that project for later though.

At this point, leakdown numbers look awful. Fairly close to each other but awful nonetheless. #3 looks slightly hurt on account of getting washed down with fuel. I will have to test again once the engine gets a few minutes of runtime and the cylinders have a chance to reach operating temperature.

Valve leak was fixed. It impacted valve seat height significantly enough to be visible by naked eye?.

New eBay turbo looks good; if the quality of the additional processes carried out compared to the old turbo are anything to go by, this one should hopefully last more than 5000 miles. It?s supposedly a GTX3071R Gen 2 clone as opposed to a journal bearing GT3071 (with what seems like a K27 compressor wheel). Seems a lot closer to the actual thing that it?s trying to knock off. The vendor graciously agreed to take $150 off asking price instead of doing a warranty repair on the old one (which cost $190 to begin with so hey, this makes fiscal sense in some way?right?). External dimensions and the turbine wheel are all identical so it bolted in with no fuss, which was very appealing at the moment. A new manifold and proper brand name turbo are in the works so I?ll happily avoid doing any extra fabrication between now and then.

Also, special thanks to Oldschoolvolvo for giving me the part numbers for the viton spark plug tube o-rings. Hopefully they, along with some Right Stuff, prevent any more oil seepage into the wells?


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oldschoolvolvo said:
glad those o-rings could help you out :)
Click to expand...

Ordered a bunch of them in case it needs to be torn down often. If you are gonna get kicked in the balls, at least wear a cup or something, right? Right?


propav8r said:
I love this car.

I don?t love the issues you?re having with it, but I love the car nonetheless.
Click to expand...

Quin said:
just wait til you drive it!
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That could be either bad or good. I think it is on the good-er side of things, driving-wise again...provided that the engine actually runs like not-dog****.

As for the issues, I chuck it up to being a cheap idiot, doing things that are out of my depth.
 
Is that some rough wear on the cam cap and cam journal? I don't know how you deal with that, just thought it looked bad.

Send the details on the O-ring dimensions. I probably need to tear my 16V head apart and try the sealing game again too. I've never had a leak free B234 head. Damn things just seep somewhere, especially with some boost to force oil out of the cracks.,
 
qwkswede said:
Is that some rough wear on the cam cap and cam journal? I don't know how you deal with that, just thought it looked bad.

Send the details on the O-ring dimensions. I probably need to tear my 16V head apart and try the sealing game again too. I've never had a leak free B234 head. Damn things just seep somewhere, especially with some boost to force oil out of the cracks.,
Click to expand...

Yeah they were all preddy scored. I hit the cams with some emery cloth and a tiny bit of WD40. The caps and carrier got a polishing sponge treatment I borrowed from culberro. Not sure what it's called but it was enough to take most of the surface imperfections off the aluminum.

For the mating surfaces I carefully scraped everything with a razor blade and finished it off with a Roloc yellow bristle disc.

Cam carrier is sealed with Loctite 518. Viton o-rings and The Right Stuff on the plug tubes.

oldschoolvolvo said:
Yea I agree...the AQ171 manual I found indicates sealant on the o-ring sealing surface as well.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1102757/Volvo-Penta-230.html?page=70#manual

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*Edit: interestingly the above manual notes Loctite 518.
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oldschoolvolvo said:
I used these o-rings.
https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-fkm-o-ring-48-x-2mm-price-for-1-pc/

I also used Loctite 510, which I take to be nearly equivalent (or equivalent) to the Volvo branded product.
(it is the higher temp of the 2 Loctite anerobic sealants, Loctite 518 being the lower temp variety)
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289411
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The valve cover gaskets all seem to be absolute garbage these days. Three cracked upon installation despite a good pre-soak in hot water. I treated the mating surfaces with Permatex High Tack gasket sealant on most of the gasket and put The Right Stuff on the corners of the cam humps.

I'm also completely overhauling my crankcase ventilation setup. To achieve this I'm in the process of installing a Pro-Vent 200 directly to the intake manifold as an effort to provide a decent amount of crankcase vacuum under part loads...this is where my engine seems to leak the most oil using a regular catch can arrangement.

The plan is to use some extra hose and check valves so it functions under boost as well. If it turns into a tangled mess of hose I'll just route the Yoshifab catch can to the pre-turbo side.
 
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