J2_
Active member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2008
- Location
- Stroopwafel-land
He means a spraying booth
-
Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software hereThank you for being a part of our community!
164RS project
- Thread starter john r h
- Start date
subw000fer
New member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2009
- Location
- sweden
Beautiful color! 
I couldn't afford the cost of a professional bodywork restoration to the standard I was aiming for, but the main reason was that I wanted this to be a 'self-build' project as much as possible.
John
I painted my first one in the backyard in the middle of winter for such reasons. Cameout okay but I wasn't as worried about it as I will be on my next one
chirish1234
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2009
- Location
- NJ, US
I thought before looked awesome. This just blew my mind.
SteveP
New member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2005
- Location
- Birmingham, UK
Holy moly - what a gorgeous colour
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2004
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
updates?
corivus
Hey Shiny!!
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2004
- Location
- Tempe, Arizona
I love how this turned out, thats a lot of hardwork and once its assembled it will be amazing!
blueinportland
New member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2012
Sweet! Very nice color and amazing bodywork you have been doing.
Thanks guys.
Update to follow later today, but I'm working on detail paint corrections and wet flatting with 1200 paper (20 hours of that so far...). Next we'll be machine polishing with progressively finer grades of cutting compound.... hopefully arriving at a 'sheet glass' finish!
Cheers
John
Update to follow later today, but I'm working on detail paint corrections and wet flatting with 1200 paper (20 hours of that so far...). Next we'll be machine polishing with progressively finer grades of cutting compound.... hopefully arriving at a 'sheet glass' finish!
Cheers
John
D.E
tvåförti
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2010
- Location
- Mora, Sweden
Even though I don't agree with the choice to cut big holes into the front fenders, overall it looks really great.
Progress continues....
The lacquer is looking good and I am preparing it for final polishing. Very long job of wet-flatting to remove the 'orange peel' effect from the surface.
Once the surface is flat, tiny dips in the lacquer can be seen, caused by dust and silicon. These are touched in with more lacquer on a small brush, then flatted level.
There were some corrections needed on the rear wing edge
The left front wing had no silicon marks, so Ellis did an initial polish with cutting compound to see how it looks. I'm pleased with how it has come out - it will be more shiny when we complete the cutting and apply wax.
A few shots of other members of the fleet; my 240, Steve's Polo and Ellis's V90
I have time off work this week, so more updates soon.
Cheers
John
The lacquer is looking good and I am preparing it for final polishing. Very long job of wet-flatting to remove the 'orange peel' effect from the surface.
Once the surface is flat, tiny dips in the lacquer can be seen, caused by dust and silicon. These are touched in with more lacquer on a small brush, then flatted level.
There were some corrections needed on the rear wing edge
The left front wing had no silicon marks, so Ellis did an initial polish with cutting compound to see how it looks. I'm pleased with how it has come out - it will be more shiny when we complete the cutting and apply wax.
A few shots of other members of the fleet; my 240, Steve's Polo and Ellis's V90
I have time off work this week, so more updates soon.
Cheers
John
Hi,
I've had a break from paintwork for a couple of days, but we have done some more cutting and it is coming up well.
I dug out my stock of bumpers to choose the best combination of parts to make a good set for the rebuild.
I worked on the rear bumper first. This is the rubber section dismantled for refurbishment. One section of the metal insert had rust which I dealt with.
Reassembling the rubber section with plenty of rust-proofer
I bought a new-old-stock rear bumper casing, but it is different to the UK type - maybe a US version? The shape is the same, but the mounting holes for the rubber are near the edge, whereas mine needed central holes drilling
Coach-bolts refitted - the metal insert of the rubber section holds these in place
These bumpers tend to corrode where the rubber contacts the metal, so I coated both the bumper and the rubber strip with Dinitrol to hopefully eliminate this problem.
Rear bumper assembled
I also treated the inside of the bumper with Dinitrol wax
The front bumper was a similar process, but more involved because the best bumper casing I could find available was for a 140. The comparison here shows that it is a fractionally different shape to a 164 bumper - but extremely close. I measured them and the biggest differences at the front were just a few millimetres, with the 164 bumper being about 10mm longer at the sides.
This also shows the indicator mounting holes needed for the 164; I drilled these in the new bumper (no photo)
It's strange that two different bolt patterns were used for these lamps
Test fit of the lamps for comparison (OE 164 bumper on the left)
Ages ago, I started refurbing my front indicators; this was the time to complete that. These lamps have a tendency for the lens screw to seize into the casing. Dealing with this is not too difficult in principle, but it is fiddly and needs a steady hand.
First step is to drill out the remains of the old screw, being careful to keep the hole central and avoid drilling too deep and puncturing the lamp case.
Then, at the top, the hole is drilled out wider
A nut with the correct thread is filed down to be a snug fit in the wider section at the top. This is glued in place using super-steel epoxy, or similar (this is strong enough for the very low torque needed on a lens screw). The screw is temporarily fitted to align the nut while the glue sets, but care is needed to avoid the glue trapping the screw.
The completed repair
I cleaned up the best reflectors from my stock and then (no photos)painted them, and inside the lamp casings, with chrome spray
The lamps fitted with my new clear lenses and attached to the bumper
The anti-corrosion treatment was as per the rear bumper
All for today, more soon!
John
I've had a break from paintwork for a couple of days, but we have done some more cutting and it is coming up well.
I dug out my stock of bumpers to choose the best combination of parts to make a good set for the rebuild.
I worked on the rear bumper first. This is the rubber section dismantled for refurbishment. One section of the metal insert had rust which I dealt with.
Reassembling the rubber section with plenty of rust-proofer
I bought a new-old-stock rear bumper casing, but it is different to the UK type - maybe a US version? The shape is the same, but the mounting holes for the rubber are near the edge, whereas mine needed central holes drilling
Coach-bolts refitted - the metal insert of the rubber section holds these in place
These bumpers tend to corrode where the rubber contacts the metal, so I coated both the bumper and the rubber strip with Dinitrol to hopefully eliminate this problem.
Rear bumper assembled
I also treated the inside of the bumper with Dinitrol wax
The front bumper was a similar process, but more involved because the best bumper casing I could find available was for a 140. The comparison here shows that it is a fractionally different shape to a 164 bumper - but extremely close. I measured them and the biggest differences at the front were just a few millimetres, with the 164 bumper being about 10mm longer at the sides.
This also shows the indicator mounting holes needed for the 164; I drilled these in the new bumper (no photo)
It's strange that two different bolt patterns were used for these lamps
Test fit of the lamps for comparison (OE 164 bumper on the left)
Ages ago, I started refurbing my front indicators; this was the time to complete that. These lamps have a tendency for the lens screw to seize into the casing. Dealing with this is not too difficult in principle, but it is fiddly and needs a steady hand.
First step is to drill out the remains of the old screw, being careful to keep the hole central and avoid drilling too deep and puncturing the lamp case.
Then, at the top, the hole is drilled out wider
A nut with the correct thread is filed down to be a snug fit in the wider section at the top. This is glued in place using super-steel epoxy, or similar (this is strong enough for the very low torque needed on a lens screw). The screw is temporarily fitted to align the nut while the glue sets, but care is needed to avoid the glue trapping the screw.
The completed repair
I cleaned up the best reflectors from my stock and then (no photos)painted them, and inside the lamp casings, with chrome spray
The lamps fitted with my new clear lenses and attached to the bumper
The anti-corrosion treatment was as per the rear bumper
All for today, more soon!
John
subw000fer
New member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2009
- Location
- sweden
Those lamps looks great! And the paintwork seems to turn out really well to! 
valvesprung
New member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2005
- Location
- PacNW
This thing is going to be so gorgeous...
Those lamps looks great! And the paintwork seems to turn out really well to!
Many thanks guys!!
A quick update
I'm preparing the door frames for refitting, here using thinners to remove over-spray from the last time the car was resprayed!
I'm back on paintwork now - the messy but rewarding job of polishing.
I was asked how I'm doing it, so here's my technique.
First I apply G3 cutting paste, lots of it, then spray with soapy water.
Then buff. I use a medium buffing head. Press hard on flat surfaces, lightly on edges and curves. ALWAYS keep the buffer moving, if it stops for a second it will quickly overheat and melt the paint. Also be VERY careful on edges and tight radii - very easy to wear through the lacquer
I work a small patch at a time. Buff until there is a passable shine, then spray on more water. No more paste at this stage - there is enough in the buffer foam.
Repeat the process locally, where more shine is needed or there are sanding marks to remove.
I then repeat the process over the whole panel with G10 paste (finer grade), then manually apply wax polish
Cheers
John
A little more progress to report:
Front panel has had initial buff. It needs more, but I'll do that manually to avoid the risk of burning the paint with the buffer on the awkward shapes.
Progress will slower for a while, because I'm having a new workshop built at home. The 164 will be moved later this month, so from now on I'm focusing on refitting items which will be helpful when moving the car.
There are a few lost parts which I hope will turn up, but we have been starting to fit up the doors, just temporarily so they can be latched closed and avoid damage during transport.
We are making up the best set of door handles from the parts I have. The bright surrounds are hard to find in good condition, being unique to the 6-cylinder versions of the 100/200 series.
We have the first door opening and closing with the nice Volvo clunk! The chrome trims will be added later when we do the final refit.
We fitted the boot stays. These are compression struts with a strong spring inside. They're difficult to fit without the special tool (which I don't have). I the end we succeeded by loosening the hinge bolts first - then Ste using various limbs on the job while I tightened the bolts. The fuel tank is also back in place - just need some more screws to finish the installation. (Kind of looks like Ste has wet himself here.... sure he didn't tho, it's just dust!)
I noticed some more corrections needed in the corners of the boot shut, this is work in progress
When we move the car, there will be some manoeuvring on sloping ground, so I thought having some brakes would be nice! Hence refitting the handbrake components, with a new cable I found on ebay. I really hate drum brakes (the devil's work) but actually it was nice to be working on mechanical parts for a change.
This is the pulley that operates the cable, refurbed. According to Haynes, the RHD 164 used a different part (a slider instead of the pulley). I can't really see why; this works fine so I'll use the LHD component unless we encounter any problems.
Fitted and working nicely
That's all for now,
Cheers
John
Front panel has had initial buff. It needs more, but I'll do that manually to avoid the risk of burning the paint with the buffer on the awkward shapes.
Progress will slower for a while, because I'm having a new workshop built at home. The 164 will be moved later this month, so from now on I'm focusing on refitting items which will be helpful when moving the car.
There are a few lost parts which I hope will turn up, but we have been starting to fit up the doors, just temporarily so they can be latched closed and avoid damage during transport.
We are making up the best set of door handles from the parts I have. The bright surrounds are hard to find in good condition, being unique to the 6-cylinder versions of the 100/200 series.
We have the first door opening and closing with the nice Volvo clunk! The chrome trims will be added later when we do the final refit.
We fitted the boot stays. These are compression struts with a strong spring inside. They're difficult to fit without the special tool (which I don't have). I the end we succeeded by loosening the hinge bolts first - then Ste using various limbs on the job while I tightened the bolts. The fuel tank is also back in place - just need some more screws to finish the installation. (Kind of looks like Ste has wet himself here.... sure he didn't tho, it's just dust!)
I noticed some more corrections needed in the corners of the boot shut, this is work in progress
When we move the car, there will be some manoeuvring on sloping ground, so I thought having some brakes would be nice! Hence refitting the handbrake components, with a new cable I found on ebay. I really hate drum brakes (the devil's work) but actually it was nice to be working on mechanical parts for a change.
This is the pulley that operates the cable, refurbed. According to Haynes, the RHD 164 used a different part (a slider instead of the pulley). I can't really see why; this works fine so I'll use the LHD component unless we encounter any problems.
Fitted and working nicely
That's all for now,
Cheers
John