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242 Turbo LS blah, blah, blah

Ginger Ninja said:
This car is just lovely. Excellent work.

Engine explosion sucks though, hopefully that doesn't slow you down for long.
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I'll have plenty of other things to do while I decide on the engine solution. Body work, paint work, things of that nature.
 
kcpaz said:
The problem with that connector design (other than the poor quality), is that the external wiring harness shoots straight up, and then in most people's application, hangs down, which puts side load on the pins. That's my theory anyway. I suspect that if the wiring harness is properly stress relieved as close to the connector as possible, this might prevent the issue I had. Hopefully that makes sense. Regardless, I'm researching a solution as Radium says the top plate on new tank design isn't compatible with the old tanks. I think I've found a way to modify my existing tank, but I haven't done it yet. I'll keep this thread updated when it happens.
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I would agree with that diag, I'll at least use a strain relief on it. If I can find something suitable.
 
Decided to commit to tackling the paint/body work before I put an engine back in it.

Deleting the belt moldings

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Antenna delete

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Then, something I've been wanting to do ever since I "tucked" the bumpers. Removing the rubber bumper pads, fill the holes, and extending the aluminum bumpers to fit the body.

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threewagons said:
Wow, body work is looking great. The bumper extensions make all the difference
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Yeah, I was a little nervous about how it would turn out, but once I got it all bolted back up, I was very pleased. Now I just have to repeat the process in the other 3 corners?.
 
threewagons said:
How thick of material material are you using? Tig welding I assume?
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I used 1/4? thick plate. It?s basically the exact same thickness as the original bumper, at least at the ends. Yes, TIG welded. I?ll take some better detail pics on the other corners. I was rushing to try and get this corner done before dinner.
 
Cool. Do you do any tig welding on the car? I do collision repair and I've always been told that tig welding on vehicles will fry modules but I see people do it online all the time...

I have a wire feed aluminum welder at work but it does not make nice looking welds :lol:
 
I like silicon bronze wire for filling holes in sheet metal but I know you can buy it in rods too
 
threewagons said:
Cool. Do you do any tig welding on the car? I do collision repair and I've always been told that tig welding on vehicles will fry modules but I see people do it online all the time...

I have a wire feed aluminum welder at work but it does not make nice looking welds :lol:
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I?ve heard this too, and not just with TIG, although I suspect the concern is regarding the high frequency start of the TIG process. I?ve unplugged ECU?s and batteries in the past, but even when I haven?t, I?ve never had an issue.
 
Yeah, even when mig welding the general rule of thumb is to remove any modules or ground straps within 18-36 inches of where you're welding. And disconnect the battery of course.
 
kcpaz said:
I never really liked the look of the coffin hood cars, so I sourced a flat-hood conversion and some quad-rounds
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The car will look great when you're done, with all the nice touches you're adding - the headlights, I think it's funny how everyone wants the flat hood/round light setup - those look like more of an afterthought of how to deal with the US regs than the quad Wagner bulbs ever will - all that black void around the bulbs... :-D
 
lookforjoe said:
The car will look great when you're done, with all the nice touches you're adding - the headlights, I think it's funny how everyone wants the flat hood/round light setup - those look like more of an afterthought of how to deal with the US regs than the quad Wagner bulbs ever will - all that black void around the bulbs... :-D
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For me, it has to do with the fact that I?ve always loved the front end styling of the E30 BMW?s, and the flat hood/quad-round set up is like Volvo?s version to me.
 
lookforjoe said:
The car will look great when you're done, with all the nice touches you're adding - the headlights, I think it's funny how everyone wants the flat hood/round light setup - those look like more of an afterthought of how to deal with the US regs than the quad Wagner bulbs ever will - all that black void around the bulbs... :-D
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Not a fan of single round. I love both double square and round. The round e-code lamps are better for sure especially if you add a relay. Its like having modern headlights.
 
Had a randomly warm day today, so I started stripping the paint. Chemical strippers did absolutely nothing to the OEM paint, so I'm abrasive stripping everything. Found a few hidden dents under some body filler but nothing terrible. As I suspected based on the paint checking, the car was resprayed at some point from the belt molding up. Not wanting to risk any adverse reactions between the original paint and new top coat, I decided bare metal was the way to go.

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Still a long way to go, but this was a good start. Need to remove the rest of the glass, door handles/locks, wipers, bumpers....
 
threewagons said:
I'd definitely epoxy prime it when you're done stripping
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Was planning on an etch primer prior to starting on the body work.... but I haven't worked in the restoration industry for almost 15 years so my knowledge is probably outdated. A quick google search turns up mixed opinions. Some say use it prior to epoxy, some say don't. In the past I've used DuPont 2450S epoxy primer, which is supposed to be a DTM primer, but I've always "hedged my bets" by starting with an etch (DuPont 615S)
 
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I'd strongly encourage you to use epoxy, it's the closest thing you can get to e-coat. Etch-prime is old school, the chemicals are nasty, and it doesn't actually seal the metal. It's more for adhesion than corrosion protection.

2k epoxy has excellent adhesion and excellent corrosion resistance. You don't seem like you're skimping on quality stuff, but you get what you pay for with automotive coatings.

PPG has a nice restoration guide here https://ppgrefinish-na.uberflip.com/i/982460-custom-restoration-guide-2018/41?
 
threewagons said:
I'd strongly encourage you to use epoxy, it's the closest thing you can get to e-coat. Etch-prime is old school, the chemicals are nasty, and it doesn't actually seal the metal. It's more for adhesion than corrosion protection.

2k epoxy has excellent adhesion and excellent corrosion resistance. You don't seem like you're skimping on quality stuff, but you get what you pay for with automotive coatings.

PPG has a nice restoration guide here https://ppgrefinish-na.uberflip.com/i/982460-custom-restoration-guide-2018/41?
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After doing some quick research and consulting with some of my friends who are still in the business, it seems that you are correct. Thanks for the heads up. Based on what my friends said, I?ll also be switching to PPG as you suggest.
 
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