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240 Hood alignment / door trim / door lock issue questions

Cybernesia

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Location
Portland OREGON
Yello all brickers,

Today I am trying to tighten up some stuff that's been urking me lately and wanted to see if anyone can help as I have tried with all my might and can't find solutions for these three things.

1. Hood alignment - Looks like my car has had a bunch of excitement before I was the proud owner and my front of the hood is aligned correctly but the back, near the windshield is raised about a half inch over where it should be. This is a replacement hood. Might not ever have been installed right. Any write ups for this anywhere or can anyone chime in?

2. I know its a long-shot but I am trying to find the silver window trim right below the passengers side back door for my 85 240 sedan. Wondering if a parts list exists to where it would be easier to pin point what exactly I need to replace this piece. Its just funny how much different the car looks like from the other side, it doesn't flow like the other.

3. I have a drivers door lock that will only fully unlock if I pull up more on the stem of the door lock. If i don't do this, it will remain locked even though engaged open. I have disassembled the door and couldn't find anything bent or anything and I lubed all the places that made sense to with white lithium grease but it didn't help the issue. Just wondering if this is a thing that happens on these cars or if this a one off and if so, what to do to troubleshoot it more.
 
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Hood high near windshield, either the hood is bent from bad hinges or the hinges are bent or both.
 
This?

4.jpg
 
yeap, just that little bugger. I am surprised how the rest of the trim stayed put for so long. I had to gorilla tape one of the other trim pieces on (to keep it stable) and never got around to finding out how to rehab the end bits.
 
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There’s a write up somewhere on here about fixing a bent hood with a ladder and some lumber. Involves bracing the underside of the hood and using a ladder to strategically step on the outer hood skin and press it all back into shape along with the internal frame. I can’t seem to find it right now
 
There?s a write up somewhere on here about fixing a bent hood with a ladder and some lumber. Involves bracing the underside of the hood and using a ladder to strategically step on the outer hood skin and press it all back into shape along with the internal frame. I can?t seem to find it right now

That sounds like the advice I gave to someone awhile back on how to straighten a hood that bent because of stuck hinges. If the back corner is up, it isn't due to a bent hood. It is a bent hinge causing the problem. There is a height adjustment bolt at the rear of the hinge that allows for ~ 1/2" of height adjustment overall. It that doesn't do it, the hinge needs to be replaced.
 
Your advice might be the post I’m remembering. Had pictures showing where to place the lumber. I just can’t find it on my phone
 
Thanks for the post 2manyturbos ; I have found those adjustment bolts and they are already the lowest they go. Radtap, sounds like a fun re-sculpting time! Let me know if you ever find it again as I would love to see the options. I have tried to look it up but came up nil.

Redwood Chair, thanks for the suggestion. I have posted it in the wanted section. I guess all these issues could be resolved by a little of the ol' rip and replace with another. Thanks for the input!
 
Can't find the damn thread for the life of me. But heres another thread going over hinge problems. I'm not 100% sure but from what I remember you need to get a bunch of scrap lumber and place it inside the engine bay along the strut towers and anywhere else you'll be bending into shape, you actually use the lumber to support the outer hood skin, place a small step ladder at the front to give you better positioning and then slowly step on the hood corresponding to the internal support of the hood. You want to bend that support back into shape not the hood skin so you must be careful, the skin is much weaker than the support obviously. You may have to mark on the outside where the support is so you don't press where you don't want to.
 
Silly question time:

Should I replace both at the same time (hood hinges) or can I see if a new one straightens out that side then grab another? Just thought I would ask.
 
So neither look "broke" upon further examination. the passenger side has a little play (set at half the up and down adjustment level) but the driver side is adjusted all the way down. I can kind of push it further down when its closed but then it doesn't stay that way. No big deal though, ill spray that passenger side with some PB buster and try to adjust it. Thanks for all of your help everyone.
 
So i am starting to think that maybe the actuator in my door could be the issue. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas of cleaning it or pulling it apart to clean and inspect (the black piece connected to the rod). Picture of what im talking about below.

s-l1600.jpg


Any ideas are welcomed. I dont really want to buy new door guts or for that matter a whole door just to fix this lock issue. Thanks all!
 
Wires shorting out on the ‘collar contact switch’ or in the driver door hinge from being flexed a bajillion times is common-enough.

If someone didn’t mangle the switch, liquid electrical tape is common to keep those wires isolated on those or re-solder different wires if you have more time than $?

Or live without the key collar switch that has rotting wiring on all of them by now if you pull apart a 240 driver door ‘81-‘93 / wire insulation that’s likely to flake off on removal & just use the lock button switch or install / setup/devise a keyless entry system idk?

If the power lock relay gets stuck on for any reason it can fry various lock motors too.

Later P80 cars have fragile over-temp fusible link lock motors…so the motor doesn’t catch fire or melt/short out anymore but the fuseable over-temp link fails instead, for better or worse…
 
So i am starting to think that maybe the actuator in my door could be the issue. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas of cleaning it or pulling it apart to clean and inspect (the black piece connected to the rod). Picture of what im talking about below.

s-l1600.jpg


Any ideas are welcomed. I dont really want to buy new door guts or for that matter a whole door just to fix this lock issue. Thanks all!

I?ve pulled many of those actuators from junkyards and most of the time the wires where they enter that black tube lose their coating and short out causing issues. Get a little jar or liquid electrical tape and slather it on there
 
I?ve pulled many of those actuators from junkyards and most of the time the wires where they enter that black tube lose their coating and short out causing issues. Get a little jar or liquid electrical tape and slather it on there

:nod:

That's a 1 in 100 replaced harness, and they were ~$300 from Volvo when you could still get the updated ones.
 
That actuator looks ok to me. I would first check the wires going through the A-pillar.
 
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