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Old 08-01-2022, 08:25 AM   #1
whatshouldido
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Default 91 240 LH 2.4 + T Swap into LH 2.2 88 740

Hello All !

Just Reaching out for some help with getting my no spark figured out, and on top of that help with a deeper understanding of the true diagnostics vs throwing the parts cannon at it!

I have a 91 240 Block Mounted B230 + T setup swapped into a 88 740 Wagon, all the original harness is in the car still, using the 740 fuse panel and such to power all the things!


I have 12v at the coil and can turn key start the car using the 740 signal wire to the 240 harness, no pumps plugged up so tried to start the car on start fluid and it was a no go.

So Trying to Figure out why I am not getting any spark, and make sure everything is working right after the swap

Things I have Tested

I have 12v at
-coil
-O2 sensor
-Power Stage

-Maf test good at 3ohms

-CPS reads 192 ohms between pin 1 and 2



- - Using this Thread - -

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=230687


And this LH 2.4 wiring Diagram

https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/Harne...ctions2021.pdf

This Pin out Guide For EZK and ECU

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9733/...-pinout-tables


And this Green Book on LH 2.4 Fuel system trouble shooting

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...ds6eIvjDz2mQy0



But have not found a Green Book for Trouble Shooting EZK systems !



--- End of Resources ---


I have All 5 Wires for LH 2.4 powered up as such,

I am using the 11 pin plug ! From a 91 non abs model 240 !

the 11 pin connector looks like this ( the male side where you feed in power )

1 5 8
2 6 9
3 7 10
4 X 11

1- blue wire, this supplies switched 12v. without this, you will get no spark, and no fuel pumps. it connects to pin 35 on the ECU, pin 4 of the diagnostic connection, pin 6 of the EZK, and one of the pins in the CA EGR cars. ultimately you want it hooked to pin 15 of the ignition switch. NOTE: you must use an lh2.4 ignition switch for this pinout to be accurate, also, make sure you are referencing the pin numbers on the switch, not on the connector. Powered Switched 12v

2- gray/red wire, this goes to the A/C delay relay.

3- FAT yellow/red wire, the wiring diagram says fuse #6, but you can use any fused switched 12v source. Powered Switched 12v

4- green wire, goes to pin 14 of the ECU and connects to the A/C system.

5- blue/black wire, goes to pin 6 of connector 31 on the instrument cluster. (big round connector)

6- violet wire, goes to pin 34 of instrument cluster, shift indicator?

7- white/pink wire, pin 235 of instrument cluster, check engine light.

8- small yellow/red wire, same location as pin 3. diagram says fuse #6, just find switched 12v. Powered Switched 12v

9- pink wire, not entirely sure where this goes.... best guess is pin 50 of ignition switch, starter circuit.... but I dont have it connected and my car runs

10- red wire, runs from pin 4 of the ECU, and pin 5 of the EZK, and pin 3 of the fuel pump relay, to fuse #6. or just 12v. this powers the ECU/EZK and the fuel pump relay. Powered Constant 12v

11- red wire, same as pin 10. Powered Constant 12v

the 5 wires needed to make it RUN, are pin 1 blue wire, pins 3 and 8 with the yellow/red wires, and pins 10 and 11 with the red wires.


1. Blue -Switched 12v

2. Small Red / yw - switched 12v

3.Fat Yellow/ Rd - Switched 12v

4. Fat Red - Constant 12v

5. Sm red - Constant 12v

These are all confirmed with voltmeter key on/ off

Here is the ECU Pinout

ECUPINOUT

1. Has 12v at it even when not cranking
2. was reading funny I think TPS is shot
4. Constant 12v
5. 4.50 ohms
6. 3ohms at MAF 22 Ohms between 6-7 at ECU pin out - 5.6 ohms grounded
7. Should be 1.4v - Reading 5.8mv
8.
9. 2.5v at ECU pin out, - 12v at red wire to power stage on fender
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18. 4 ohms, injectors are good !
19. 4.7 ohms
20.
21. 12v
22.
23.
24. .579v
25. 6.9v
26.
27.
28.


Going to Check all the values and update this thread as I get them, will be working on the car today


Here is the EZK Pin out

ezkpintout

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10. ( should this be 12v constant, or only on cranking? )
11.
12.
13. Input Signal from knock sensor ?? What Value should this have for it to be good?
14.
15.
16.
17. 0.25mv when cranking
20.
23. unsure of values



Hoping someone can point me in the direction of what values need to be or to the green book on how to fault trace the EZK spark setup !

Will Check all the EZK Grounds and 12v inputs this after none based on the pin out info and update results !


The ECU Grounds would all measure super close to 000.00 but sometimes would be 004.9 !

Going to try to figure out whats wrong through tools and testing ! Hopefully Some help on some what values should be or pointed to the right place would be great!

Cheers to everyone on TB and to their volvos !
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Last edited by whatshouldido; 08-02-2022 at 07:17 PM..
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Old 08-01-2022, 08:39 AM   #2
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This may be of some help for you.
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9733/...-pinout-tables
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Old 08-01-2022, 10:02 AM   #3
VB242
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Did you swap in the lh2.2 distributor? That's what has the pickup that fires the injectors and ignition. Lh2.4 distributor does not have that output.
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Old 08-01-2022, 10:40 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Did you swap in the lh2.2 distributor? That's what has the pickup that fires the injectors and ignition. Lh2.4 distributor does not have that output.
He's swapping to lh 2.4 setup using a 240 harness. The lh 2.2 is not needed.
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Old 08-01-2022, 11:54 AM   #5
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Do you have a signal to the power stage?
Use a logic level probe to monitor the input to the power stage?
That will point you in a direction.
Assuming you have the flywheel and crank sensor correctly installed.

It appears that wiring setup does not require a signal from the distributor.
The distributor just points the spark at the right cylinder.
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Last edited by Dirty Rick; 08-01-2022 at 12:34 PM..
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Old 08-01-2022, 12:27 PM   #6
whatshouldido
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
Do you have a signal to the power stage?
Use a logic level probe to monitor the input to the power stage?
That will point you in a direction.
Assuming you have the flywheel and crank sensor correctly installed.

I do have power at the power stage unit on the fender,

Will be testing # 16 on EZK for power stage pulse signal,

This would not be the first flywheel I have installed so I am going to cross that one off,

But a Failed CPS is not crossed out, it reads 12v constant at ecu with ignition on, unsure if it should be 12v on ignition or 12v while cranking only

Thanks a ton!
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Old 08-01-2022, 12:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
wow !

Yes sir it does !

Will run down the list and see what I find and update this thread as I do so !

Thank you !
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Old 08-01-2022, 12:49 PM   #8
whatshouldido
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Dang I think thats probably a problem Im getting a constant 12v from the RPM signal at Ignition on based off


https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9733/...-pinout-tables
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Old 08-01-2022, 01:14 PM   #9
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I didn't go through all your details, but a couple quick checks are:
- With key on, do you get a 1-1-1 (or other) diag blink code from both EZK and ECU (probe holes #2 &#6)? If not, your main power to the boxes is suspect.
- Have you checked +12v going to coil and powerstage/poweramp with key on, and during cranking? Is there a RSR relay in use on your 740?
- what version of 240 harness are you using? 9-pin, 12-pin, or 24-pin cabin harness connector?
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Old 08-01-2022, 02:06 PM   #10
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Yeah that one wire needs 12v while cranking. I hooked that to the wire that goes to the starter that starts the car. The little igniter wire from the ignition switch. You can look at starter and see what color it is, blue/white perhaps and tap into it behind the dash. Problem solved. 12v while cranking is the one labeled in the 240 harness swap deal threads. Also when you turn key fuel pump should pump for about 5 seconds to prime before you start cranking the starter.

This is all you need.. Now you say you have power to wire 1? That is power OUT to fuel pumps...

What you say you have for the 5 wires to make it run, not sure you understand but it's not power running into all those wires to make it run. You got the main power to ECU at battery wire that is main power to ECU or if you got later harness it's at the end of harness. It isn't one of the 5 wires needed, but it is needed.

I have All 5 Wires for LH 2.4 powered up as such,

1. Blue -Switched 12v

2. Small Red / yw - switched 12v

3.Fat Yellow/ Rd - Switched 12v

4. Fat Red - Constant 12v

5. Sm red - Constant 12v

What you need..

Wire 1: Thicker (12ga?) Red/Yellow- Power OUT TO Fuel Pumps. Power wire to run to fuel pump.
(Wire 2 Thinner (16ga?) Red/Yellow: Power FROM fuse to Heated 02. (Vehicle will start without this wire connected) Switched power out of fuse panel to O2 sensor.
Wire 3: Blue: Ignition ON signal. THIS IS THE ONE WIRE YOU HOOK TO starter igniter wire. Do not hook to anything else...
Wire 4: Blue/Black: Signal fom back Speedo (optional. You will get high idle after freeway runs without it. No big deal.)Not needed to run at all...
Wire 5: Power up ignition coil with switched 12v. ( i suggest adding it to 2 wire plug. One wire is yel/red. Other is blue. By adding 12v to this wire, you are powering up the coil and the powerstage)JUst like it says key on power to ignition must stay on while cranking also or car won't start fyi so make sure it does...
(Wire 6) entire LH System/Fuel Pumps gets power from a RED fused wire from the battery. At least on 1989-1990. Later model wiring harness is different. Sort thru other guy's posts or look at wiring diagrams to figure it out.


You telling us colors of YOUR harness but you don't say what harness you using? As stated above there is more then one... Colors different..
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Last edited by sbabbs; 08-01-2022 at 02:34 PM..
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Old 08-01-2022, 06:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
Yeah that one wire needs 12v while cranking. I hooked that to the wire that goes to the starter that starts the car. The little igniter wire from the ignition switch. You can look at starter and see what color it is, blue/white perhaps and tap into it behind the dash. Problem solved. 12v while cranking is the one labeled in the 240 harness swap deal threads. Also when you turn key fuel pump should pump for about 5 seconds to prime before you start cranking the starter.

This is all you need.. Now you say you have power to wire 1? That is power OUT to fuel pumps...

What you say you have for the 5 wires to make it run, not sure you understand but it's not power running into all those wires to make it run. You got the main power to ECU at battery wire that is main power to ECU or if you got later harness it's at the end of harness. It isn't one of the 5 wires needed, but it is needed.

I have All 5 Wires for LH 2.4 powered up as such,

1. Blue -Switched 12v

2. Small Red / yw - switched 12v

3.Fat Yellow/ Rd - Switched 12v

4. Fat Red - Constant 12v

5. Sm red - Constant 12v

What you need..

Wire 1: Thicker (12ga?) Red/Yellow- Power OUT TO Fuel Pumps. Power wire to run to fuel pump.
(Wire 2 Thinner (16ga?) Red/Yellow: Power FROM fuse to Heated 02. (Vehicle will start without this wire connected) Switched power out of fuse panel to O2 sensor.
Wire 3: Blue: Ignition ON signal. THIS IS THE ONE WIRE YOU HOOK TO starter igniter wire. Do not hook to anything else...
Wire 4: Blue/Black: Signal fom back Speedo (optional. You will get high idle after freeway runs without it. No big deal.)Not needed to run at all...
Wire 5: Power up ignition coil with switched 12v. ( i suggest adding it to 2 wire plug. One wire is yel/red. Other is blue. By adding 12v to this wire, you are powering up the coil and the powerstage)JUst like it says key on power to ignition must stay on while cranking also or car won't start fyi so make sure it does...
(Wire 6) entire LH System/Fuel Pumps gets power from a RED fused wire from the battery. At least on 1989-1990. Later model wiring harness is different. Sort thru other guy's posts or look at wiring diagrams to figure it out.


You telling us colors of YOUR harness but you don't say what harness you using? As stated above there is more then one... Colors different..

Yes and thank you ! Edited post so it is more clear,

I am using the 12 pin connector , and the 1. Pin with constant 12v is at the ECU pin out, and for the RPM/CPS sending unit, which I was curisous about , weather it should have constant 12v or only when cranking, but looking at the ecu read outs it should be 0v and more when cranking, so it might be my issue there causing my no spark issue

Cheers
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Old 08-01-2022, 07:30 PM   #12
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Thinking the power stage might be toasty, at pin out 9 on the ECU connector it is 2.5v, but at the power stage the Red/White it is 12v ,
so thats for sure not right, MAF is reading a bit wonky too at ECU Plug, that wouldnt effect a no start Spark with Ether though.
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Old 08-01-2022, 08:25 PM   #13
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Some of your measurements are wonky. Let's go back a step.

- Was the donor engine and 240 LH2.4 harness working before the swap?
- Was the harness removed and reinstalled, or did you leave it connected up to the engine during the swap?
- You're installing the 240 ECU, EZK, and main [aka fuel pump] relay in the passenger footwell, or are you trying to remove the 240 relay and rewire into the 740 relays?
- Have you checked the ground wires on the intake manifold to make sure they're all connected and not damaged?

Please check your 11-pin connector wire colors and pin numbers - I think your numbers are wrong:

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatshouldido View Post
the 11 pin connector looks like this
1 5 8
2 6 9
3 7 10
4 X 11

1. Blue -Switched 12v
2. Small Red / yw - switched 12v
3.Fat Yellow/ Rd - Switched 12v
4. Fat Red - Constant 12v
5. Sm red - Constant 12v
From my notes (un-verified), I have:
11-pin connector - end view of female connector
_8 5 1
_9 6 2
10 7 3
11 x 4

1 blue : switched +12v from ign switch run+start, to LH-35 EZK-6
2 gray/red : A/C switch on (and A/C delay relay), LH-15
3 yel/red-big : +12v to fuse 4 and to main fuel pump, from system relay 87/2
4 green : A/C solenoid on (and pressure sensor), to LH-14
5 blue/blk : speedometer Vss to LH-34
6 violet : dash shift light from LH-26
7 2x pink/white : dash CEL from LH-22 EZK-3
8 yel/red-small : +12v from fuse 4, to O2 sensor heater (and tank pump in chassis wiring)
9 yel/blue : from ign start switch, before park/neutral switch goes on to starter, LH-30
10 red-big : from battery + fuse
11 red-big : from battery + fuse

If you're just trying to get spark and run on ether, the bare minimum you need for wiring is:
1 blue (from ign switch, +12v start&run), 9 yel/blue (to starter), 10+11 (+12v from battery through fuse)

You'll also need to ensure blue, switched +12v, makes it to the coil and powerstage. This wiring is not part of the 240 engine harness.

To energize the fuel pumps, and to turn on the O2 sensor heater, you'll also need to wire up 8 yel/red-small (from 740 fuse for O2 heater/tank pump) and 3 yel/red-big (to 740 main pump and to fuse for O2 heater/tank pump)
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Old 08-02-2022, 07:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Some of your measurements are wonky. Let's go back a step.

- Was the donor engine and 240 LH2.4 harness working before the swap?
- Was the harness removed and reinstalled, or did you leave it connected up to the engine during the swap?
- You're installing the 240 ECU, EZK, and main [aka fuel pump] relay in the passenger footwell, or are you trying to remove the 240 relay and rewire into the 740 relays?
- Have you checked the ground wires on the intake manifold to make sure they're all connected and not damaged?

Please check your 11-pin connector wire colors and pin numbers - I think your numbers are wrong:



From my notes (un-verified), I have:
11-pin connector - end view of female connector
_8 5 1
_9 6 2
10 7 3
11 x 4

1 blue : switched +12v from ign switch run+start, to LH-35 EZK-6
2 gray/red : A/C switch on (and A/C delay relay), LH-15
3 yel/red-big : +12v to fuse 4 and to main fuel pump, from system relay 87/2
4 green : A/C solenoid on (and pressure sensor), to LH-14
5 blue/blk : speedometer Vss to LH-34
6 violet : dash shift light from LH-26
7 2x pink/white : dash CEL from LH-22 EZK-3
8 yel/red-small : +12v from fuse 4, to O2 sensor heater (and tank pump in chassis wiring)
9 yel/blue : from ign start switch, before park/neutral switch goes on to starter, LH-30
10 red-big : from battery + fuse
11 red-big : from battery + fuse

If you're just trying to get spark and run on ether, the bare minimum you need for wiring is:
1 blue (from ign switch, +12v start&run), 9 yel/blue (to starter), 10+11 (+12v from battery through fuse)

You'll also need to ensure blue, switched +12v, makes it to the coil and powerstage. This wiring is not part of the 240 engine harness.

To energize the fuel pumps, and to turn on the O2 sensor heater, you'll also need to wire up 8 yel/red-small (from 740 fuse for O2 heater/tank pump) and 3 yel/red-big (to 740 main pump and to fuse for O2 heater/tank pump)

yeah this block / harness was running before pulled but sat for like 2 years in the corner of the shed before reinstallation and, the harness was unplugged and plugged back in.

I will edit my first post to better describe the 11 pin better, but the 5 wires I have hooked up are the ones your talking about,

I have 12v at O2 Heater, the coil ,and the power stage ! But not out of the power stage at the ECU plug in and no way to test square waves coming out of it currently
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Old 08-02-2022, 09:25 AM   #15
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Maybe swap the ignition switch? Been there twice.
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Old 08-02-2022, 01:31 PM   #16
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To test that the trigger signal is happening on pin 5 of the power stage. You can use a voltmeter with a needle or a low voltage test light. The fluctuating signal will show as a fluctuating voltage. You should see that on pin one powerstage triggering the coil with a flickering test light.

If you don't see the fluctuating output from the EZK to the ignition amp. Then either the EZK isn't getting triggered by the speed sensor or the EZK is bad, or you have wiring issues. Component substitution is the way to figure that out if you suspect the EZK or speed sensor.
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Old 08-02-2022, 02:36 PM   #17
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To get spark, you only need a few things:
- 60-2 toothed flywheel/flexplate
- CPS Sensor wired to EZK
- Power&Ground at EZK
- EZK spark output wire to powerstage
- Power&Ground at powerstage
- Powerstage to coil wire, and power at coil

To check these, start with the ECU plugged in but the EZK unplugged. For the EZK measurements, just touch the meter probe tips lightly to the connector - if you shove the probe into the connector, you'll permanently damage the connector pin.

- With key off, measure resistance across EZK pins 10 and 23. This should be the same as your 192ohm CPS measurement.
- With key off, measure resistance to a good chassis ground point (or cigarette lighter barrel) of EZK pin 20 ground. This should be a couple ohms or less. You can hold your meter probe tips together to get a baseline resistance of just the meter&probes.
- With key off, measure voltage from chassis ground to EZK pin 5 and to pin 6. Pin 5 should be constant +12v, pin 6 is switched +12v.
- With key on, remeasure voltage on pins 5&6.
- Briefly turn the key to start/crank and confirm that 5&6 are still +12v and don't drop to 0.
- With key off, measure resistance of EZK pin 16 spark out to powerstage pin 5 - you may need a helper for this.
- Go to the engine compartment and, with key on, measure voltage to the battery ground post of the coil + terminal, the powerstage +12v pin and, for good measure, the powerstage ground pin.
- If you plug the EZK back in and crank it while watching the voltage (to ground) of powerstage pin 5, it should go from ~0 volts not cranking, to a small voltage when cranking.
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Old 08-02-2022, 07:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
To get spark, you only need a few things:
- 60-2 toothed flywheel/flexplate
- CPS Sensor wired to EZK
- Power&Ground at EZK
- EZK spark output wire to powerstage
- Power&Ground at powerstage
- Powerstage to coil wire, and power at coil

To check these, start with the ECU plugged in but the EZK unplugged. For the EZK measurements, just touch the meter probe tips lightly to the connector - if you shove the probe into the connector, you'll permanently damage the connector pin.

- With key off, measure resistance across EZK pins 10 and 23. This should be the same as your 192ohm CPS measurement.
- With key off, measure resistance to a good chassis ground point (or cigarette lighter barrel) of EZK pin 20 ground. This should be a couple ohms or less. You can hold your meter probe tips together to get a baseline resistance of just the meter&probes.
- With key off, measure voltage from chassis ground to EZK pin 5 and to pin 6. Pin 5 should be constant +12v, pin 6 is switched +12v.
- With key on, remeasure voltage on pins 5&6.
- Briefly turn the key to start/crank and confirm that 5&6 are still +12v and don't drop to 0.
- With key off, measure resistance of EZK pin 16 spark out to powerstage pin 5 - you may need a helper for this.
- Go to the engine compartment and, with key on, measure voltage to the battery ground post of the coil + terminal, the powerstage +12v pin and, for good measure, the powerstage ground pin.
- If you plug the EZK back in and crank it while watching the voltage (to ground) of powerstage pin 5, it should go from ~0 volts not cranking, to a small voltage when cranking.
Thank you for helping walk through this, I apricate it a ton

-Pin 10 & 23 gave the 192ohms
- Pin 20 is grounded
- Pin 5 is constant 12v
- Pin 6 is 12v but drops 10 - 11 when cranking
-Didnt check resistance yet

At the Power stage 12v in red and white
- Pin 5 goes from 129.6mv to .500mv Im guessing that is going up ?

From the Coil Wire to the Cap is reading 12v with ignition on and drops to 7v when cranking

Also Measured Pin 17 on the EZK plug at 0.25mv when cranking and the Pin out guide above says it should be 6.5v at cranking

So the RPM Speed Signal is based off the CPS ? which could cause bad Power stage Readings ?

Thanks again !

Last edited by whatshouldido; 08-02-2022 at 07:22 PM..
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Old 08-03-2022, 08:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whatshouldido View Post
- Pin 5 [powerstage input from EZK] goes from 129.6mv to 500mv [during cranking]
Good, that seems about right, and means that you're getting spark up to at least the powerstage.

An easy way to check for spark out of the coil is to use a spare spark plug wire clip and a kitchen magnet.

Unplug the coil wire from the distributor, slide back the boot and, using the magnet and clip, position the end of the wire ~1/4" from a shock tower bolt. You should see a good spark during cranking.

If you don't see spark, and you have a testlight, try connecting the testlight across the 2 coil spade lugs while cranking. It should flash briefly. If you have a spare powerstage, you could try swapping it in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatshouldido View Post
So the RPM Speed Signal is based off the CPS ?
Yes, LH2.4 uses a 60-2 "sixty minus two" toothed flywheel, where the minus two means that two teeth are missing resulting in a long flat spot. The CPS sensor and EZK detect where the missing 2 teeth are on the flywheel. From there, the EZK counts teeth to figure out where to trigger the spark. The other EZK signals, coolant temperature, load from ECU, knock sensor, adjust where the spark fires.
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Old 08-03-2022, 10:48 AM   #20
whatshouldido
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Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Good, that seems about right, and means that you're getting spark up to at least the powerstage.

An easy way to check for spark out of the coil is to use a spare spark plug wire clip and a kitchen magnet.

Unplug the coil wire from the distributor, slide back the boot and, using the magnet and clip, position the end of the wire ~1/4" from a shock tower bolt. You should see a good spark during cranking.

If you don't see spark, and you have a testlight, try connecting the testlight across the 2 coil spade lugs while cranking. It should flash briefly. If you have a spare powerstage, you could try swapping it in.


Yes, LH2.4 uses a 60-2 "sixty minus two" toothed flywheel, where the minus two means that two teeth are missing resulting in a long flat spot. The CPS sensor and EZK detect where the missing 2 teeth are on the flywheel. From there, the EZK counts teeth to figure out where to trigger the spark. The other EZK signals, coolant temperature, load from ECU, knock sensor, adjust where the spark fires.

Thanks for the tips, going to swap in a spare CPS and see if that helps,

because at the EZK the CPS reads 0 volts, but if the Power stage is spiking in volts does that mean it is sending a signal after all ?

I am going to look around for a spare power stage too and swap that out ! Definitely not getting any spark still
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Old 08-04-2022, 08:07 AM   #21
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Didnt get out there yesterday due to weather, but pulled the battery and got it on the charger for a full time of testing tonight !

This bitty gonna be running !
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Old 08-04-2022, 01:46 PM   #22
dl242gt
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Usually, the signal from the EZK to the ignition amp is fluctuating between 0 and 2v on a meter. That reading seems a bit low to me but it seems like it's trying to do something. Stay cool and hope you get some spark.
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Old 08-05-2022, 12:44 PM   #23
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[IMG]20220804_173127[/IMG]

Swapped out the CPS still no bang the one I swapped defiantly looks rough, and getting more Voltage at EZK pin 17 but not the 6.5 it says it should get

Going to test the main relay make sure thats working right,

I was checking the coil, getting 12v through the coil wire to the bottom of the cap, but not out of the plug wire holes? Will recheck today with a different cap,

Rotor is reading 1k ohms
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Old 08-05-2022, 01:11 PM   #24
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I would measure the primary and secondary resistance of the coil disconnected. You shouldn't be getting 12v on the high tension coil wire. Typical reading from terminal 15 to the center lead is around 8500-9500 ohms.
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Old 08-06-2022, 11:15 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
I would measure the primary and secondary resistance of the coil disconnected. You shouldn't be getting 12v on the high tension coil wire. Typical reading from terminal 15 to the center lead is around 8500-9500 ohms.

Terminal 15 to the center lead is testing at 8.5k ohms, possibility my main relay is not clicking off, going to check this today and swap it around, started raining, so backed off for a bit !

Thanks again for the all the help !
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