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All you need to know about the M90

Excellent writeup, I've just won an M90 complete with driveshaft, crossmember and the stick/linkages on ebay for 99 quid so I'll be following the guide fairly soon!

Seeing as the shift linkage needs shortened anyway, did you consider adding in a threaded adjuster to fine tune the lever position? seems like an error of a few mm either way could have the stick position a bit messed up in the forward/back dimension.
 
Excellent writeup, I've just won an M90 complete with driveshaft, crossmember and the stick/linkages on ebay for 99 quid so I'll be following the guide fairly soon!

Seeing as the shift linkage needs shortened anyway, did you consider adding in a threaded adjuster to fine tune the lever position? seems like an error of a few mm either way could have the stick position a bit messed up in the forward/back dimension.

Yeah I thought about a adjuster in the linkage, but decided against it because the adjuster could loosen over time (and I ran out of time hehe). The shifter in my 240 is a little bit more to the left, but thats no problem. I had some leftover 12mm? hydraulic pipe that I pressed in the shift linkage pipe so the 2 halves were joined and test fitted that before welding.

One boss for a bolt is very close to the transmission tunnel (on intake side of engine). Best to grind it down a bit. No pics of that point now though, will take one. With the transmission fitted it is nearly impossible to dent the transmission tunnel properly to gain some extra space there. 5 mm more room and it wont hit.

Right now I am chasing down a small issue with the engine mounts, the rear mount doesnt seem to cope well with loads in the front-rear direction. because the 240's engine mounts are angled the engine slides a bit towards the firewall, just a little distance but enough to see it when you look at the mounts. I already shimmed the transmission mount bracket slightly (the 4 M10 bolts at the back of the M90, in the direction of the driveshaft) but that didn't help yet.

Just some minor issues to fix :-P
 
Right now I am chasing down a small issue with the engine mounts, the rear mount doesnt seem to cope well with loads in the front-rear direction. because the 240's engine mounts are angled the engine slides a bit towards the firewall, just a little distance but enough to see it when you look at the mounts. I already shimmed the transmission mount bracket slightly (the 4 M10 bolts at the back of the M90, in the direction of the driveshaft) but that didn't help yet.
I hope you find a solution so I know what to do when I fit mine! :-P
 
As long as you shorten the shift rod and the aluminum link the same amount, it won't screw up the shifter angle.

You should also draw a line down the length the of shift rod so that the yoke on each end are "clocked" correctly relative to each other. This keeps the shifter from ending up too far left or right.

I did this for the mount on mine, it allows the use of an M46 style mount on the M46 cross member:
DSC01816.jpg
 
That's also cool, I like not having to cut up the crossmenber, added bonus is I can get m46/ 7 mounts in poly but not M90.

Don't suppose you could post up a diagram with dimensions on it?
 
You mean you can get M46/7 mounts for a 240 in poly, right? Because M46 and M90 mounts for a 7/900 are identical...just to be clear for anyone else reading this :)

cheers

James
 
You should have seen the look on my face the first time I looked at an M46 crossmember, and realised the first few M90 kits which got shipped out to the US ("yeah man, it includes the M90 crossmember!!") would have arrived with the recipient thinking "what a retard" :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

cheers

James
 
I'll take some pictures - easy to do since it's all out of the car right now. I can bolt up the crossmember so you can see how it works.

I would not trust the actual dimensions, though. My M90 is behind a whiteblock in my 240, so it is probably not quite in the same position as a redblock one. My guess is it's probably an inch or so further rearward in my case...
 
Ok, sounds cool. I think you might be onto something though, it can't be too hard to make up a bracket from some spare angle iron to adapt the m90 to the 240 crossmember.
 
Following on from last post I have been looking for a 940 TDi clutch. I have found kits available that are M90 specific and that include the pressure plate, disc and bearing but they all say they are all cable clutch operated. Does this not matter or do I need to find a hydraulic clutch specific kit to unite the M90 with my 740 T block?
 
Is Castrol SMX-S (75w85, full synt.) the correct oil for a M90 gearboxes? I have to change oil very soon, so i`m begging for answer as soon as possible! Can`t buy here original Volvo trans. oil, so I believe that Castrol is the right choise...
 
As far as I'm aware, they're all hydraulic. I think that might be a clutch re-seller sucking at teh internet.

I don't think Volvo publish the specs on the oil, so it's hard to say.

cheers

James
 
Another thing, I couldn't find an answer to this earlier in the thread, for us RHD chaps who already have a hydraulic clutch setup, is it as simple as disconnecting the clutch flexi from the old slave cyl. and attaching it to the m90 one, or do I need to change the Master cyl. and flexi to get it to work?
 
As far as I'm aware, they're all hydraulic. I think that might be a clutch re-seller sucking at teh internet.

I don't think Volvo publish the specs on the oil, so it's hard to say.

cheers

James

Would it matter anyway, are hyraulic and cable release bearings different? I've never done a clutch before so don't know.
 
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