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Hard to stop after new oe pads

miss information

Show me a longitudinal study that evaluates and supports your position. Sales BS is sales BS.

Fact - For years, they slapped them on for consumer vehicles.

Fact - "If you want your car to stop faster, an intuitive start may be to upgrade your brakes. While it may sound logical, for everyday driving it will probably have no effect on your actual stopping distance. Brakes are the system responsible for turning the kinetic energy of your moving car into heat (science talk for slowing it down), however the car?s tires are ultimately responsible for how quickly this occurs."
 
Just quit with the miss information trying to cover up your lack of understanding. With the Posi-Quiet pads the bedding process is essential. The stopping distance is nearly double what you would expect until the proceedure is completed. I just installed a set on my F250 a week ago. Did you even read their White Paper on the topic that I linked?

I really don?t care that you put in a set of stock pads and blah, blah, blah, with the sand and dust. That?s absolute bull****. The pads actually last longer when properly broken in. It isn?t about a manufacturer wanting you to wear them out so they can sell you more. It?s about them wanting you to have excellent brakes so that you come back and buy their product again and again.

Roy is correct on this. The longest life comes from two matched surfaces. Sand, dust and dirt shouldn't cause issues, as everyone in areas with any moisture experiences oxidation on rotors, which is also wiped by the pads during use. The manufacturer accounts for this in their pad design.

The reason they include instruction for procedure is for safety. Which is also why they recommend roads that are clear for the driver during the brake bedding procedure: stopping power is reduced.

........

My rotors warped because I tried bedding brake pads on old, rusty rotors that are far out of spec. Thinner material warps more easily.
 
Show me a longitudinal study that evaluates and supports your position. Sales BS is sales BS.

Fact - For years, they slapped them on for consumer vehicles.

Fact - "If you want your car to stop faster, an intuitive start may be to upgrade your brakes. While it may sound logical, for everyday driving it will probably have no effect on your actual stopping distance. Brakes are the system responsible for turning the kinetic energy of your moving car into heat (science talk for slowing it down), however the car?s tires are ultimately responsible for how quickly this occurs."

Just stop with the nonsense. Admit it when you don't know your ass from a hole in the ground. The crap you post could get someone injured. Try reading the Whitepaper I posted. Do you even read? My friend did $5000+ damage to his Corvette because he didn't think it was critical that he bed in his new track pads. He drives the car on the edge 100% of the time. I do the same with my Mustang GT. Had I sent out the 940 I installed the Posi-Quiet pads on and the customer rear ended someone, or worse, ran over someone I would have been liable. The Posi-Quiet pads I installed on my F250 could have caused an accident the first trip out because my rig weighs close to 16,000 lb when I'm carrying my camper and have my GT on my car trailer. Most of the braking is done with the front 2 discs on that set up.

I don't give a rat's ass what was done years ago. You can't even buy the types of brake pads that you are describing anymore.

One more double down post from you with this kind of nonsense and you are going to take a day or two off. I'm not kidding. I've had enough of your GoodleFu nonsense on here to last a lifetime.
 
My F150's front brakes have uncomfortable amounts of pulsation, apparently from being warped. ZVOLV, I understand that the actual rotor isn't warped, but from what I've learned, it's heat that can change the metal's hardness in some spots which in turn causes uneven wear. My automotive teachers told me that they've seen this in Ford trucks quite a bit. What gives?

2manyturbos, what rotors do you use for the F250?
 
Thickness variation and/or lateral runout are causes of vibration.

Lateral runout is warping of the rotor. I see it fairly often with 7–9 series brake rotors. Almost never with 2 series rotors.

The Centric brand rotors are decent quality. People even use them on their track Mustangs running 160 miles an hour. That is the brand I put on my Ford F250. I think they were only $52 each new.

The whitepaper I posted here is from Stoptech. The same company that makes centric brake parts. They actually have a racing brake division which I only realized when I looked up the bedding procedure for those brake pads that I installed.
 
Lateral runout is warping of the rotor. I see it fairly often with 7?9 series brake rotors. Almost never with 2 series rotors.

The Centric brand rotors are decent quality. People even use them on their track Mustangs running 160 miles an hour. That is the brand I put on my Ford F250. I think they were only $52 each new.

The whitepaper I posted here is from Stoptech. The same company that makes centric brake parts. They actually have a racing brake division which I only realized when I looked up the bedding procedure for those brake pads that I installed.

I've used Centric brand parts before, and they seemed to be of good quality. My F150 has rotor-hubs. Still only $60, and a good opportunity to replace bearings and seals.
 
Roy is correct on this

Being anal, somewhere around 40k miles, many rotors should be replaced...this makes mechanics very happy to hear, and to repeat to their customers.

One lawyer notes, "The good news is that brake failure is rarely the cause of a car accident."

Lawyer is not talking about OEM failures (Ford F-150 pickup truck, Nissan, Harley-Davidson , etc)

"High performance" brakes is a side topic, not related to typical OEM brakes. Roy accepted this comment below, which I do too.

"For most folks, the gradual wearing-in of your brake pads and rotors will be performed through natural driving, but if you want your pads to perform great right out of the gate, and minimize potential issues, doing a procedure known as ?bedding in? is extremely helpful. "

Key Words - "want your pads to perform great right out of the gate"

My rotors warped because I tried bedding brake pads on old, rusty rotors that are far out of spec. Thinner material warps more easily.

GM Creates Recipe for Brakes That Shine - High-tech rotors look better, last longer and could save consumers hundreds of dollars
2011-11-30
 
You still haven’t read the whitepaper have you? That’s obvious in your comments. All kinds of OEM applications run high-performance brakes. BMWs, Porsches, Mustang GTs, Challenger RT’s run Brembo brakes with high-performance pads right from the factory. You’re living 35 years ago in your technology.

Posi-Quiet pads are not racing pads. They are over the counter brake pads that AutoZone and practically every other auto parts store on the planet sells. They require a bedding in procedure. Otherwise the braking is dismal for quite awhile and you could actually ruin the brake pads by not following their installation procedure.
 
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Back in 1991 I bought all new brakes F/R from Volvo, front vented rotors, stock rear rotors, pads and calipers. Cross drilled the rotors [120 holes per rotor], this May I put in new rear pads after 250K miles, the front are about 1/2 worn. Are the Volvo parts that good?
 
Back in 1991 I bought all new brakes F/R from Volvo, front vented rotors, stock rear rotors, pads and calipers. Cross drilled the rotors [120 holes per rotor], this May I put in new rear pads after 250K miles, the front are about 1/2 worn. Are the Volvo parts that good?

Did the brakes on my wife's Mazda 6 wagon last year (pads and rotors front and back)

190k km on the original brakes.
 
I don't give a rat's ass what was done years ago. You can't even buy the types of brake pads that you are describing anymore.


:nod:

In the olden days when brake pads has asbestos and Volvo rotors were harder cast iron, the brake rotors would last 200K + miles, and several sets of pads.

Now the basic off the shelf choices are dusty organic or metallic that chew up the rotors.
 
Otherwise the braking is dismal.

"Reduced stopping is one of the misunderstood and misused claims in the brake pad business. Stopping distance claims are almost never followed up by ?compared to what??

One thing for sure, once ABS is active, it don't make a hoot which brake pads are being used.

Good Read - Brake Pad Failure Mode Field Study.....a lack of regulations or industry-standard practices can directly lead to the above-mentioned failure modes.

There's the problem..."a lack of regulations or industry-standard practices," so the mice are busy with their BS.

PS: A fully loaded semi-truck requires some 300 feet to stop at 55mph on dry payment, whereas typical cars around some 120 feet (not counting Perception/Reaction Distance).

Perception/Reaction is most important...pay attention, and react sooner.
 
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