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DET17's "Project cheap thrills" - '92 944T

Yes, that will be step 1; Install the 32mm Gil Racing adapters if needed.

Based on what you previously had and the fact that you can now increase clearance. There's no reason you would need a 32mm in the front... unless you just want to, then by all means....
 
As the parts trickle in, the work continues. The lower control arm "stay (radius) rods" in the 396mm length:





PN should be visible in this last pic. Thanks to BLACKVLV, eBay seller for providing these.

Next, I found out that Roy had these 30K mile later style aluminum LCA's in his thinning hoard. Rather than fight my old cast steel versions (with bushing replacements), I bought these to add to the improvements. NOTE - this type uses a different sway end link than my old 92 version:



All I lack is the JEGS shipment with Eibach 2.5 inch ID spring isolators..... and the struts will go back in for the final time.
 
Isolate some NVH from the chassis, cabin. At $10 a piece, it cannot hurt. I understand that plastic can't isolate like rubber spring seats.

Those wont help with that at all.

They are intended more to be a cheap version of the luxe steer which lets the spring slip but you don't need it since you have a roller bearing.
 
Those wont help with that at all.

They are intended more to be a cheap version of the luxe steer which lets the spring slip but you don't need it since you have a roller bearing.

My test drive of the front suspension revealed a lot of "metallic noise" transmitting into the cabin. What may well have been the culprit, was I tightened the KONI top nut only holding back by the 11mm hex which is at the top of the strut (centered within it, the damping adjustment tab). You can't get a lot of counter-torque with such a small resistance, so I think the strut shaft might have been turning inside the spherical top mount bearing. I think the KONI Sport manual calls for a torque of around 55 lb.ft. on the main nut, and I'm sure I wasn't at that. This time around, I'll use my impact on the top nut (24mm? from memory) and confirm torque achieved with my torque wrench. I'm installing the Eibach isolators regardless.... as I said, it cannot hurt NVH, and it is better than metal to metal.

Onward.
 
My test drive of the front suspension revealed a lot of "metallic noise" transmitting into the cabin. What may well have been the culprit, was I tightened the KONI top nut only holding back by the 11mm hex which is at the top of the strut (centered within it, the damping adjustment tab). You can't get a lot of counter-torque with such a small resistance, so I think the strut shaft might have been turning inside the spherical top mount bearing. I think the KONI Sport manual calls for a torque of around 55 lb.ft. on the main nut, and I'm sure I wasn't at that. This time around, I'll use my impact on the top nut (24mm? from memory) and confirm torque achieved with my torque wrench. I'm installing the Eibach isolators regardless.... as I said, it cannot hurt NVH, and it is better than metal to metal.

Onward.

That could have been the pillow ball moving in the strout mount housing on warm days. I found the pocket in mine was ~0.025" too deep. Loctite bearing retaining compound shut it up.

So if this metallic noise includes popping and groaning, this may be it.
 
That could have been the pillow ball moving in the strout mount housing on warm days. I found the pocket in mine was ~0.025" too deep. Loctite bearing retaining compound shut it up.

So if this metallic noise includes popping and groaning, this may be it.

This could very well be true.

loctite 680 and flipping the tapered snap ring can help a lot if this is the situation.

Easy to do when its still apart as well.
 
That could have been the pillow ball moving in the strout mount housing on warm days. I found the pocket in mine was ~0.025" too deep. Loctite bearing retaining compound shut it up.

So if this metallic noise includes popping and groaning, this may be it.

I ran these same top mounts for several years prior to the coilover conversion.... and they were completely silent. What changed, is the cause of the metallic sounds. We will see how vocal it is after the top nut reaches the KONI spec torque.

For sure ,the Loctite GREEN retention compound works.... I've used it for decades at work.
 
I ran these same top mounts for several years prior to the coilover conversion.... and they were completely silent. What changed, is the cause of the metallic sounds. We will see how vocal it is after the top nut reaches the KONI spec torque.

For sure ,the Loctite GREEN retention compound works.... I've used it for decades at work.

If they have been quite then it sounds like the bearing assembly is fine....

If that top nut is under torqued, it can cause a real racket.
 
Early 960s had them. I dont think the 940s got them.

Aluminum hood cars usually had aluminum control arms too.

Thanks Ben, I've really never seen them come by. Weight wise these alu rods are preferable I think. The weight of the iron ones is huge, I'm only curious for the detoriation of the surface where the "mushroom" rubber rests cuz Aluminium is a lot softer.
 
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