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D?j? Vu Mid-Blue - 1989 Volvo 245 DL

excellent job on the ball stud. slow & steady wins the race

Thank you. Absolutely. Little bits at a time I'm going to find the parts that have weakened and deteriorated over the last thirty years. Catching up with everything that has been deferred is definitely the hard part. Luckily the car wasn't too bad when we got it. I figure as long as I attempt to fix these little issues as I find them, the car should last a very long time.

If these issues start to get fewer and further between, we might consider some minor upgrades like sway bars, chassis bars, and alloys, but the end goal for this one is longevity.
 
This is exactly what owning a old volvo is like. The very same experience almost everyone has or will have. :lol:

No doubt. This is only the second 240, but I've played the 80s s***box game over and over again since I've been able to drive. I think this is the 7th. I'll never learn my lesson though. For some reason I enjoy the punishment. Like I also said, it's fun when it's good. lol
 
This weekend we made the daring decision to start trusting the wagon to go long distances again. The initial drive home just over a year ago is still its longest voyage in our ownership, but I would be lying if I said that I wasn't terribly sketched out on that one. The timing belt was about to snap, and if I had known what I was going to be in for during the following year I would be even more scared!

Now that I've been through so much of the vehicle, it's hard to put question marks next to anything. It's time to see what this car is made of!

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It was interesting riding shotgun in a 240, but even more so because of the car having AC and soft suspension. I actually got to sit back, relax, and discover that these seat recline a lot further than most other cars I've had. I could have fallen asleep which is incredibly out of character for me. I don't nap on car rides.
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The only issue I found the whole way was that I did not properly reinstall a couple of the bulb sockets after repairing the D-pillar. No worries! Once we got there, the car got a much needed bath.
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After some swimming in Mom and Dad's pool, visiting with family, and eating way too much, we made the trip back. This time, the temps were well into the 90s.
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After our second gas stop for the trip I was really curious about how much my repairs might have increased the fuel mileage.
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I was pretty darn happy with that. I have not seen over 22 before, and the last times I've calculated have been without working AC on local highways. Considering that were were setting the cruise at 75mph on a 90+ degree day with the AC cranked, I'm guessing this is pretty normal. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

We made it about a block from home before I came across the second issue.
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I know that these gauges mean essentially nothing even with the temp faker bypass, but I did not like to see the temp creep this high. We had been chugging along all morning without issue. It wasn't until we stopped in a drive-thru for lunch that this started happening. It crept up very slowly, but it did not stop increasing until I started moving again.

Overall, I'm extremely proud of this car. Having working AC and cruise control in a 240 is truly game changing. I feel like I've experienced what it would have been like to buy one of these brand new in the 80s. Not only that, but I also understand WHY somebody would buy one of these brand new in the 80s! I just need some suggestions on how I can bring my temps down in the summer. New fan clutch? Colder t-stat? E-fan conversion?
 
How new is your radiator? I'd investigate that first. My radiator is about 10 years old. New OE temp thermostat, faker bypassed, and can sit in a drive thru with AC on all day in 100+ heat, and the temp needle will never quite reach the 9 o clock position. Temps verified at the T stat hose with a laser temp gun as well.

The system, when all its components are functioning as designed, should be plenty equipped to cool the engine.

People on this forum will swear by the E-fan.
I'm a fan of simplicity.

That's great that your roadtrip went well. It's a great feeling. I think driving these old wagons adds so much charm and intrigue to what would otherwise be a boring drive.

I recommend getting the app fuelly. 23 mpg @ 75 mph seems about normal. On long flat stretches going 65mph I've been able to hit 28mpg. Which is pretty astounding considering the coefficient of drag these things have. I'm sure you'd have similar results, but not everyone has time for 65mph
 
How new is your radiator? I'd investigate that first. My radiator is about 10 years old. New OE temp thermostat, faker bypassed, and can sit in a drive thru with AC on all day in 100+ heat, and the temp needle will never quite reach the 9 o clock position. Temps verified at the T stat hose with a laser temp gun as well.

I am not sure about the radiator. It came with the car, and I do not recall seeing a receipt. However, it looks pretty nice and has a Nissens tag. I don't want to condemn that yet. I will have to go through my receipts because I do not remember which temp thermostat I put in it although it is only a year old. I sorta remember looking up the stock temp and getting whatever that was, but I don't remember for certain. Perhaps I should also check into some other stuff like condenser fins and coolant? Maybe I don't have a good 50/50.

The system, when all its components are functioning as designed, should be plenty equipped to cool the engine.

I figured.

People on this forum will swear by the E-fan.
I'm a fan of simplicity.

For this car, I would as well. The sound and negligible power loss are no bother to me. If the stock mech. fan works fine under my conditions I'll keep it.

That's great that your roadtrip went well. It's a great feeling. I think driving these old wagons adds so much charm and intrigue to what would otherwise be a boring drive.

I recommend getting the app fuelly. 23 mpg @ 75 mph seems about normal. On long flat stretches going 65mph I've been able to hit 28mpg. Which is pretty astounding considering the coefficient of drag these things have. I'm sure you'd have similar results, but not everyone has time for 65mph

For sure. Fuelly seems pretty popular. I might have to get that. I've just been doing teo pump clicks on every fill up with some quick math. I may be getting slightly screwed by the old odometer anyway.
 
I'm taking the 240 on a camping trip this weekend. This time I'll be flying solo on unfamiliar roads, so I'm feeling a bit nervous. As a quick effort I sucked the coolant out of the reservoir, and replaced it with straight distilled water. What I removed seemed a bit too opaque to be a true 50/50, so I feel like I might have done something good here.

Like a total goof, I started the car, turned on the AC, put it in gear, and just sat there for a while. I didn't see the temp creep up nearly as quickly as we noticed before. Even if you sat at a long light you would see the temp hit 9:00, but now I think it would take poor service at the McDonalds drive-thru to notice a difference. Long term, I think a coolant flush and t-stat change will do it. For this weekend, I'm going to send it!

Newb question. I know my girlfriend has been filling up with 87. I usually do too, but periodically throw mid-grade in there. IIRC the owners manual suggests 87 to 89 octane fuels. What do you guys fill up with in NA bricks? I feel like I can't hurt anything but my wallet by filling up with 89. I also have no idea if I have any detonation with 87.
 
I'm taking the 240 on a camping trip this weekend.

:zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall:
:zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall:

Newb question. I know my girlfriend has been filling up with 87. I usually do too, but periodically throw mid-grade in there. IIRC the owners manual suggests 87 to 89 octane fuels. What do you guys fill up with in NA bricks? I feel like I can't hurt anything but my wallet by filling up with 89. I also have no idea if I have any detonation with 87.

I've been using 87. I have LH2.4, and I'm guessing yours is either that or 2.2 ...? Either way, I'm pretty sure both use a knock sensor and constantly pushes the spark timing advanced until a tiny amount of knock is detected, and then they back off, and that's one way how the system achieves good mpg as compared to points ignition or electronic ignition without a knock sensor.

Due to this, you should be fine with 87. I don't notice a difference (have tried 87 & 93 in the wagon), but my engineer brain tells me that 87 gives me more low end torque due to faster flame kernel propagation... but I can't tell tbh.
 
:zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall:
:zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall::zeeall:

I've been using 87. I have LH2.4, and I'm guessing yours is either that or 2.2 ...? Either way, I'm pretty sure both use a knock sensor and constantly pushes the spark timing advanced until a tiny amount of knock is detected, and then they back off, and that's one way how the system achieves good mpg as compared to points ignition or electronic ignition without a knock sensor.

Due to this, you should be fine with 87. I don't notice a difference (have tried 87 & 93 in the wagon), but my engineer brain tells me that 87 gives me more low end torque due to faster flame kernel propagation... but I can't tell tbh.

I'm LH2.4 as well. Supposedly '89 was the crossover year, but I've never seen LH2.2 in a an '89. Anyway, interesting! I did not know that was how this system worked. I'm used to GM stuff where everything is predefined, and the knock sensor is only used as a safety.

I have some ideas for enhancing the camping experience with this car, but I have not had the chance to execute any of it. I'll be prepared regardless. I have the normal supplies.
 
Moose made the 450 mile round trip with relative ease.
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This was my view for most of the trip to the site. Needless to say, I took a longer but more scenic route home. Welcome to the Midwest. :-(
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A lot of the other campers were admiring the wagon. It felt nice. What felt even better was finally letting go of all my so-called "obligations" in terms of cars. I tend to beat myself up over mechanical and cosmetic issues, and I finally feel good about the current condition of everything I own.

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...I do still have some minor concerns though.

1.) I have no idea how you all are achieving even a lick more than 23 mpg. It doesn't seem to matter how fast or slow I go I only get 22+/- 1. Can my belts be too tight? I have good tires with good pressure, stock ride height, and good center support. I'm starting to wonder how I can find any significant losses. Turning the AC off and changing the fuel type doesn't seem to matter at all.

2.) The cruise control kind of only works when it feels like. It also looses speed, but it loses it much faster the higher the speed is set. Once it loses speed, it never tries to pull it back up unless a long downhill stretch allows more speed with the same amount of throttle. I'm guessing there's a vacuum leak I need to address.

Overall, the trip was a big success! We experiences some big storms which exposed a weatherproofing issue in my tent. This drove me to sleep in the back of the wagon. With the windows cracked just a hair, no water came in, heat was able to escape, and I slept like a baby. I might just leave the tent at home for as long as I have this car. lol
 
I'm not sure I've ever seen better than 22mpg on my 92 245, and my A/C has never really worked (and thus I never turn it on). 240s with a manual transmission seem to do significantly better, which kind of makes sense given that the automatic in these cars has no lockup.
 
Great stuff, gorgeous photos. 240 camping is the best. I don't even bring a tent any more. You can fit a twin size mattress perfectly in the back of a 240, if you want to go that route. Amazon has some thin (5-6") foam twins.

For the MPG, consider getting your injectors ultrasonically cleaned. LH2.4 can be operating "stoichiometrically" but each cylinder could be off b/c of the injectors, and simply netting the amount of oxygen the O2 sensor wants to see. 28 mpg is my high score, keep in mind. I'd say average pure highway is 24-25 mpg (weight & speed dependent), so you're not that far off.

Here's my Fuelly report. But it's mostly mixed city & highway

http://www.fuelly.com/car/volvo/240/1992/iansplatinum/897330
 
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I'm not sure I've ever seen better than 22mpg on my 92 245, and my A/C has never really worked (and thus I never turn it on). 240s with a manual transmission seem to do significantly better, which kind of makes sense given that the automatic in these cars has no lockup.

I thought about that during my drive. Not having a lock-up converter is actually pretty annoying. However, I'm an odd car guy in the sense that I have no desire to drive a stick. I'd probably convert this car over to a 4l60e before I considered a 5-speed.
 
Great stuff, gorgeous photos. 240 camping is the best. I don't even bring a tent any more. You can fit a twin size mattress perfectly in the back of a 240, if you want to go that route. Amazon has some thin (5-6") foam twins.

For the MPG, consider getting your injectors ultrasonically cleaned. LH2.4 can be operating "stoichiometrically" but each cylinder could be off b/c of the injectors, and simply netting the amount of oxygen the O2 sensor wants to see. 28 mpg is my high score, keep in mind. I'd say average pure highway is 24-25 mpg (weight & speed dependent), so you're not that far off.

Here's my Fuelly report. But it's mostly mixed city & highway

http://www.fuelly.com/car/volvo/240/1992/iansplatinum/897330

I thought about this as well. I have an ultrasonic cleaner at work. Perhaps I should give that a shot. I'd be a lot more satisfied if I had an injector flow bench to quantify the efforts though. Oh well. Perhaps smoother running and better MPG will show up as more than just placebo.
 
I thought about this as well. I have an ultrasonic cleaner at work. Perhaps I should give that a shot. I'd be a lot more satisfied if I had an injector flow bench to quantify the efforts though. Oh well. Perhaps smoother running and better MPG will show up as more than just placebo.

I've heard about guys taking their fuel rail off the intake manifold (but keeping it all hooked up still) and putting the injectors into 4 little graduated cylinders, securing them, and then having someone crank the engine for intermittent periods of time. After a significant amount of fuel has been sprayed, one would be able to tell if they are flowing evenly.

Doesn't sound like the safest way though, and I'm not necessarily recommending that route.

I had mine flowed at a performance shop, but then one injector randomly got stuck so I ended up just buying a set of GB reman inejctors and keeping the old ones in the trunk as spares.
 
I forgot to take a "before" picture, but I got the cruise control working again.
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You'll have to take my word for it when I say that this looks and functions much better. There was an unnecessary reducing union and two improperly sized tees. Getting the proper tees simplified things and possibly helped with my incredibly slow throttle action. One of the lines was the wrong size which created a bad vacuum leak. That was definitely why I was losing speed on the interstate or up any hill.

My interstate test went well. I got the car up to 70, set the cruise, and observed it holding speed going up a hill. I then pressed the + button a few times to see if I could get it up to 80 without touching the pedal. No problems. It does lose a tiny bit of speed going up hills at 80, but I'm willing to chalk that up as a non-cruise issue.

I have noticed since before my weekend trip that the car is not nearly as peppy as it was when I replaced the accessory bushings. I mean it is incredibly disabled. It doesn't hesitate or even seem to run rough which is odd because the loss in power is now very apparent. The reason I didn't really think much about it during the trip was because the issue is only noticeable around town. Accelerating from a red light almost requires pedal to the metal if I don't want the person behind me to get angry.

I don't know about you, but I think it's time to replace the fuel pumps and filter. I've never done this before on a 240, so I'm in need of tips. Is there a certain brand you guys like to use? Is the IPD "upgrade" in tank pump a solid choice? Is there a solid way to test the system? I was just going to remove the filter and try to blow trough it. Then I would try to pump straight from the in tank into a bucket to check for its function.
 
Search for Art's guide on jumping the fuses to test the in tank pump. There's a couple fuses you jump with a paperclip and you'll be able to hear if the pump is coming on.

I can't speak to the IPD pump, I went the OE route. After a bunch of research, it seemed like the OE pump manufacturer was surprisingly AC delco... which is weird? But yeah i just ordered the OE parts from tasca, the hose is NLA, so I found a NOS one, but I hear the gates submergible hose works.
 
Search for Art's guide on jumping the fuses to test the in tank pump. There's a couple fuses you jump with a paperclip and you'll be able to hear if the pump is coming on.

I can't speak to the IPD pump, I went the OE route. After a bunch of research, it seemed like the OE pump manufacturer was surprisingly AC delco... which is weird? But yeah i just ordered the OE parts from tasca, the hose is NLA, so I found a NOS one, but I hear the gates submergible hose works.

You may be thinking Denso. If it was Delco I would be strongly against OE in that case. I'll leave it at that!

Thanks for the advice. I'll check Art's page.
 
You may be thinking Denso. If it was Delco I would be strongly against OE in that case. I'll leave it at that!

Thanks for the advice. I'll check Art's page.

Nope. Delco. The original pump I pulled off had "AC" stamped on it just like the replacement. I'll see if I have a picture

Edit: no picture, but it appears delphi bought AC delco in 1995. Idk, FCP euro sold me the AC delco pump I installed (lifetime warranty!), and it was marked as OE on their website- further research confirmed AC delco was OE for this part. I wouldn't hesitate to use the VDO version or the IPD kit, but I figured hey, this AC delco pump got 230K miles on the odometer, I'll just put in what came out. We'll see :e-shrug:
 
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Nope. Delco. The original pump I pulled off had "AC" stamped on it just like the replacement. I'll see if I have a picture

Edit: no picture, but it appears delphi bought AC delco in 1995. Idk, FCP euro sold me the AC delco pump I installed (lifetime warranty!), and it was marked as OE on their website- further research confirmed AC delco was OE for this part. I wouldn't hesitate to use the VDO version or the IPD kit, but I figured hey, this AC delco pump got 230K miles on the odometer, I'll just put in what came out. We'll see :e-shrug:

Yikes. The original ones definitely did a good job as one would hope and expect. I just wouldn't replace it with the "same" one knowing what I know now. Okay, I'm triggered. It's story time now.

AC Delco has really slipped into the gutter over the last few years. Within the last four years I've installed three junk AC master cylinders. Two were remanned and one was brand new. I ended up ditching them and buying cheaper store brand remans that work fine. I've also had a two junk AC alternators. One, I modified and fixed myself. The other resulted in buying a rebuild kit for the original unit. Honestly, I'm probably going to start rebuilding alternators myself from now on, because it was really easy, super cheap, gave me a higher current output, and worked flawlessly on the first try. Proof that AC Delco is cutting costs in poor places is their oil filters. I noticed that they started adding an "E" at the end of a lot of their part numbers and wasn't sure why. It turns out they discontinued the original filters for my cars. This is really stupid IMO since there are likely still millions of these engines still in use. The replacement filter no longer has a check valve in it, so it takes longer for the oil pressure to rise on startup. :omg: We all know what that leads to!

I used to be all about putting the OE equipment in a car whenever I could, but the very brand I'm supposed to trust for my GM cars is failing at a higher rate than most of the RockAuto economy brands I've used in the past. That's just unacceptable to me. I'm not trying to poop all over your choice of parts. You said your new one is Delphi brand anyway, so it may be better. I guess time will tell!
 
According to cleanflametrap Art the Airtex E8778 is a good intank option if you're looking to stay within the OE parameters, I'm probably gonna grab one for my turbo.
 
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