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240 Part 2 "simple" keyless entry now going on 2 weeks

RickATL

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Location
Atlanta

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Looks like the white for lock and white/black for unlock. Who is the vendor of this unit?


SOLVED: You were right. I finally got it working. I dont know why everyone says that its an easy job. I rather do the rear bushings again, then try figuring that out again. Its an absolute mess of splicing, soldering, heat shrink, and electrical tape.



It was a FICBOX. Now that i know how to do this. My other two will get it right away.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB5M5R...imm_XAAQ4ZE4VBGTB42XJ8MV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
Next time, just hit the actuator wiring going to the passenger door, access through the B pillar.
Much easier than entering the dash.
Pull power from an always hot fuse at the panel, then oingo boingo, Bob's yer uncle.
 
I installed a keyless entry in 90 240 many years ago. I don't remember having to tap into the relays. I only tapped into the plug with the red/green/black wires.
 
Last question on this. The diagram showed yellow and the yellow black wire should go to 12 plus. I put them together with the red wire and ran them all to fuse 8 like this pic. (I havent clean it up yet. )
Does this seem o.k.?
 

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Those wiring diagrams are awful. I think you want Feature C, that pulses to ground to lock/unlock. Can you try it with yellow and yellow black tied to ground instead? Is it working now?
 
Those wiring diagrams are awful. I think you want Feature C, that pulses to ground to lock/unlock. Can you try it with yellow and yellow black tied to ground instead? Is it working now?


Yes, its appears to be working fine. I just didn't want it drawing power when it shouldn't. I know that Fuse 8 can be ticking with power drains. I have a lot to learn when it comes to the electrical stuff. Plus I ordered two more of these to put in my other 240's and I want to get it right.
 
I looked at some other diagrams, and Art's notes, and yes, you want to wire yours as Feature C. While it may work when wired as Feature D, I think that there's a risk of shorting +12v through the keyless box to ground if you activate the original door key switch or knob switch (assuming you haven't disconnected those switches completely). [Edit: when setup as Feature D, both original lock/unlock relays may be energized at all times except when locking/unlocking - this won't hurt the actuators, but would warm up the relays.]

Your keyless box wires should be:
red - fuse box +12v
black - ground
white - door switch harness red (lock)
white/black - door switch harness green (unlock)
yellow - ground
yellow/black - ground

This should generate a brief ground pulse on the original lock/unlock wires, which triggers the original lock/unlock relays.

All the actuators are wired in parallel with yellow and blue wires. You can splice into any convenient one (you don't need to get to the relays if you can find an easier-to-get-to actuator harness location).
 
Last edited:
Thankd Bobxyz

Bobxyz,



Thank you so much for looking at this for me. So the fact that i wired the yellow and yellow black to to fuse 8 with the red is likely my problem. The locks were locking and unlocking but watch this short video to see what else was happening.

https://youtu.be/AQoqfpQ823g
I wasnt sure if it was because of the keyless wiring or the cluster mod i did. I dremeled the opening for the cluster main light so they take the older base that had a placeable bulb, but could also fit LEDs.



Im pretty sure its this keyless wiring. When you say yellow and yellow black to ground, is that an actual ground post or should i splice into the black wire of the black/red/green harness. A ground post would probably mean i have to add length to those yellow wires.

I looked at some other diagrams, and Art's notes, and yes, you want to wire yours as Feature C. While it may work when wired as Feature D, I think that there's a risk of shorting +12v through the keyless box to ground if you activate the original door key switch or knob switch (assuming you haven't disconnected those switches completely). [Edit: when setup as Feature D, both original lock/unlock relays may be energized at all times except when locking/unlocking - this won't hurt the actuators, but would warm up the relays.]

Your keyless box wires should be:
red - fuse box +12v
black - ground
white - door switch harness red (lock)
white/black - door switch harness green (unlock)
yellow - ground
yellow/black - ground

This should generate a brief ground pulse on the original lock/unlock wires, which triggers the original lock/unlock relays.

All the actuators are wired in parallel with yellow and blue wires. You can splice into any convenient one (you don't need to get to the relays if you can find an easier-to-get-to actuator harness location).
 
Before modifying anything, try unplugging the keyless box and see if the weird gauge behavior goes away. If so, it's the box; if not, suspect something with the cluster mods, or the connectors to the back of the cluster being loose.

For rewiring, splicing into the black of the black/green/red harness is fine, and probably a little cleaner since you're already splicing into red and green. When you're done changing it to Feature C, the orange and orange/black wires from the box should be unconnected (and separately insulated, or cut off, so they can't short to anything).

-Bob
 
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