740 960 Wagon Rear Window Trim Removal?

Hello TBers, if you saw my last post in my 960 thread below you saw my smashed rear glass in the 960 wagon

I have drilled the 3 rivets out of the side trim strips and they came off easily with only a little bit of stlil-gooey window adhesive holding one end in by chance.

How do the top and bottom ones come off? I suspect from the inside somehow? I tried searching, but had no luck.

Will attempt it if no replies and I know probably not a commonly done thing, but though I'd try asking first.

Thanks in advance if you happen to know!

In the 945 the outside lower trim slides to the side, my guess is the upper does the same.

Okay! Thanks for that, will give it a try tomorrow most likely.

Can confirm both upper and lower move a little, maybe a bit less than an inch, either way without much issue, but after that I think there is a clip or something that I need to deal with. Anyone know what the detail is before I ruin it trying the wrong way? I can see some sort of clip, but not clear what to do to/with it to help it move more.

I thing the end of the trim popped out when given a proper push after it hit thi clip. Probably not the right way to do it, but in my case it was my winterbeater...
I found a pick where the trim is removed, here you can se the clips:

Yes, I got this done today, but a little more gently/subtly Bottom one slid across easily because straighter, top one popped off each clip and loaded up onto the next due to curvature.

Procedure for the next poor soul:

Push trim all the way in one direction, using something soft to protect the rear door edge, and your hand to stop the trim moving further, pry the end cap out of the trim. Once it's out, slide the trim off fully in the other direction. Same for top and bottom, but be more careful with the top one as mentioned above.

Photos:












I would definitely not recommend doing as Acke said and just pushing or hitting the trim until the end popped. Mine were both stuck with the paint the trim is covered in, and the clips are pretty delicate, so you'd be quite likely to break the clips and cause another problem. Doing it the way I describe above your clips have a good chance of survival - none of mine broke.

May as well keep this thread rolling with the problem/solution, so a few more updates:










In summary, 1220x2440 US size sheet of 4mm chinese polycarbonate with one UV resistant side and protective film both sides, 3 tubes of structural glazing adhesive, one new jigsaw, various blades to see which does the nicest cut, and not pictured I have a platinum noga deburring set with a double edge deburrer that I'll probably use to clean these up post jigsaw

Next up:

Clean remaining glass and glue out of frame, wipe with solvent to get it truly clean, cut piece of polycarbonate to suit, test fit, adjust, clamp, drill for rivets, buy rivets to suit trim, mask see-through-bit on inside including majority of existing film, goo up and install! Wish me luck

Update, got this installed the other day, and it looks pretty dam good, even if I do say myself!

You can tell it's not original because:

grey instead of black around the edges
less grey around the edges than original black (oops, no biggy)
no heater lines in it
the sound when you touch it

But just looking at the car from most angles and distances, it looks normal

Process:








Proof:








Not bad, right?

Weight savings:

glass vs polycarb, a little over half
wiper delete, a few pounds

Bonus:

old gas struts work great

Yet to do:

Re install internal panel and plug in high stop light.

Nice job. If it were any other car I'd say pull a new hatch but let's be honest there aren't many left.

Nice work!

Thanks guys! Appreciate that It's not perfect but it is pretty good. Some feedback from living with it since then:

Hot days produce some kind of off gassing from either the silicone or the polycarbonate - likely the latter, not pleasant but clears quickly and is only an issue with a hot sealed car that you freshly open.

Incident light when you're trying to look out gives everything a hazy glow due to the refractive index being worse than glass. This is only a minor thing and only when sunshine hits it from the side. If there's no direct light on it (most of the time) it's more clear than the glass that came out.

Minor distortion also due to the refractive index, but barely noticeable/super subtle.

No booming noises or anything like that. The car is refreshingly quiet after driving it around with no glass for ages.

Impact resistance tested with solid fist thumps, silicone didn't let go, alloy frame didn't bend, bounced right back and looks mint still.

Only thing I have noticed is that the silicone which did look consistent now has darker/lighter patches in it as if it wasn't properly mixed or something. This seems to come and go so I'm not sure what the deal is, but it's pretty subtle and I don't care much provided the silicone doesn't come loose all together.

Still haven't done the rear lights and panel etc. Will do a final photo and maybe some of the light diffraction if I can be bothered, once it's all together.

Unrelated, pricing up importing some MK18s for it, will do a showroom thread if/when that goes down. It's not getting any bigger wheels until the bilstein front shocks arrive and go in with the IPD springs, though. Also needs a 4.1 MIG diff installed to assist in finishing off some crappy old tyres and making way for fresh ones. 3.3 doesn't cut it.