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Old 09-03-2021, 11:50 AM   #1
corivus
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Default Corivus' 1991 740SE v8 swap

Thought I would start a build thread on my car since I'm in the middle of the process now.

A few may have seen my previous build on a 1992 740 turbo wagon, it was hit by a car that was parked behind it that was hit by a Uber Eats driver who feel asleep at the wheel. the rear wagon area was sagging and when we got it up in the air it was def a loss as with frame damage and the frame cracked at the lower portions of the bend. the build thread on that one is here.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=346900

I picked up this 1991 740SE wagon from thelostartof after my red wagon was destroyed and this is how it looked the first day I picked it up and swapped the rims on it for my Propus C's. You can actually still see the powder they put down in car accidents from the Uber Eats driver. This was literally the next day after the accident.





Like usual i drove it around completely stock and got bored so I started cleaning up things and changing things out. I eventually pulled the radiator and intercooler and swapped them with the ones from my wrecked red wagon (92 740). The change was nice but still wasn't enough, so I was originally going to swap in this 93 RedBlock I found and tossed some h-beam rods in. I was also going to drop this AGP 5457 turbo.





It was at this point that I started looking at what I spent and what else I needed to do which included oversized valves, then I'd have to have them installed and I'd want porting. After that point I'd need to look into a custom tubular manifold. Looking at the pricing I distinctly remember thinking out loud to thelostartof "For the price of porting, installing the OS valves and what I'm going to spend on a tubular exhaust manifold. I could just use those v8volvos mounts and swap in a v8...." of course the response was "you could do that."




So I ended up buying this giant(LM7) with trans(4L60E)/harness/ECM for less then the cost of porting my head. And slowly sold off all the Volvo related performance parts aside from a few things that will probably take longer.



It sat in front of the SE for a while until I got a different DD to roll around in for a few months and then the removal of the old engine happened. Took about a night to do and its already gone off to its new home to help a fellow AZ TB'er get their ride back on the road.






After this it was time to test fit the new engine in, since I was using the v8volvos mount its supposed to allow you to use the truck accessory mount and oil pan and while the oil pan has great clearance the hood won't close. Temporarily I have a solution to that I'm just hoping I can pull it off and make it look good.




Don't have pictures of this part but I had to take the trans off so I could get the engine in for the test fit. The rest of these images the transmission is not in.



The oil pan clearance, its almost at the same level as the frame rails so its useable but I may still grab a h3 oil pan or a newer Silverado oil pan.



It's in and fits, lots of space for activities and I'm going to wait till I have some c6 manifolds to do anything.





I took a week off to go on vacation and went to California with the family to enjoy some time on the beach. Once I was back I started working on the wiring which was pretty straight forward. I made main power and ground wires using welding wire and then started mocking up other lines. I think at this point ac is almost figured out along with cooling.




Mocking up the location for the ECM and fuse box, I am going to see if I can make a mount that floats the fuse box in front of the abs module and places the ECM in the old battery tray.




Just a note, the electrical is mocked up right now, that means that this will all be shielded and in protective sheaths once its completed.

And that catches us up to where I am this week, next week I'm going to start making fuel lines. the todo list feels like its making progress finally which makes me happy.

To Do:
Fuel lines
power steering lines
AC lines
Radiator lines
intake
Electric power steering pump
alt relocation bracket
make space for the transmission
Run Trans cooler lines
Measure diff to trans eyelet to eyelet distance and install
Make adapter for DBW pedal
Install TAC module

I'm sure I'm missing things and I'll add it to the list but the major things are all almost done.
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Old 09-03-2021, 01:05 PM   #2
corivus
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Also to add just in case anyone follows along for guidance, I've used a lot of other builds here to get me to this point. lt1swap.com has also been a huge help here's the main point of wiring setup for the gm ecm to control things volvo side.

From lt1swap.com:
Feed c1-b11 (red) to the ignition switch. (From the Volvo fuse box Red Wire)
Run a wire from the ignition switch to c1-A9(pink). (From the Volvo Fuse Box Blue/red wire)
Run a wire from c3-f1(Grey) to the fuel pump. (Pink wire from volvo fuse box)
And finally connect C100 pin C(Pink Wire) to a 12v+ run/start source (haven't run this one yet will update later)

AC 12v request is being fed from the stock harness at the (GREEN bullet) connector on the firewall to Pin 17 on the C2 connector
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Old 09-05-2021, 08:57 AM   #3
lookforjoe
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Looking good!

Do you now have to replace the entire DS with something more substantial, or just the front half to go from Volvo to whatever that is?

Are the V8 mounts intended for a different (shorter overall height) drivetrain than what you used, that is causing the hood interference?

It's nice that newer drivetrains typically have all the EMS right up front - makes transferring the whole system easier , for sure.
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Old 09-06-2021, 01:20 PM   #4
corivus
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Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
Looking good!

Do you now have to replace the entire DS with something more substantial, or just the front half to go from Volvo to whatever that is?

Are the V8 mounts intended for a different (shorter overall height) drivetrain than what you used, that is causing the hood interference?

It's nice that newer drivetrains typically have all the EMS right up front - makes transferring the whole system easier , for sure.

I'm just going to replace the front half with the gm end and have it rebalanced. not going for huge power for the first year so I think it'll be safe with this setup for now. I will be looking at a stronger driveshaft and rear end once I start adding more power.

Based off the for sale thread it seems like it was intended for either the car or truck ls setup along with the stock transmission, so I think its not a operator error but I wouldn't count that out. And it seems that much like all the other mounts out there the intake and accessory mounts are a bit to high for the hood to close properly.

I am very happy that its all in a centrally located area, its makeing setup for a lot of things much easier. thats not to say I won't be doing some custom wiring here and there. hopefully I don't have to do too much. From what I've been researching and asking questions on it seems a lot simpler then I thought it would be.
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Old 09-07-2021, 12:21 AM   #5
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Nothing huge today, just beginning to mock up my fuel lines to go from the Volvo filter to the gm fuel rails. I'll be keeping the inline fuel pump but the in-tank fuel pump will be swapped out with my AEM 320lph e85 compatible fuel pump that I ran in my previous Volvo wagon. The fuel tank will be switched out to the larger capacity 20g fuel tank out of a 9 series along with the accompanying gauge cluster.




While making this fuel line I do wonder where people split the line to feed both sides of the fuel rail. I was thinking of just doing a T as close as possible to the fuel rail and calling it a day unless there's a reason not to do that?

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Old 09-08-2021, 01:51 PM   #6
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Fuel feed and return lines are completed, next up is to make power steering lines. I have never played with power steering before outside of "yep that's leaking take it to someone." So hopefully I can find a walkthrough on which side is high and low on both the rack and the gm PS pump. I decided to use the gm lines and adapt an a/n fitting to the end of the rubber hose line.



Oh look a sneaky shot of the tac module and whereabouts its going to go. Also I'm using the OEM Volvo return line.


also to add, I still need to run a vacuum line from the intake to the FPR but at this point if I had a starter on and at least some exhaust manifolds I could actually test start the engine....
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:38 PM   #7
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Not a big update time but any progress is progress right?

Last week I ran the power steering lines and tested for leaks and found none which is awesome.




So today I got the a/c lines made by an a/c shop locally and got them installed.






So now at this point I have fuel, electrical, power steering and a/c lines done. I'm going to order some hose so I can run custom cooling lines. I was going to switch over to a car water pump but it puts the angles at weird harsh points.

Here's some pictures showing the clearance I have between the radiator and wp there's a lot of space for it so I think I can get away with a few 90* silicone hoses and a pipe for the lower and it'll be creative to get the upper hose done.






And I started mocking up placement of the trans cooler but I'm not loving this location so I think I might do something a bit different.



This week I'm going to work on pulling the engine back out of the engine bay and making space for the transmission. Thanks to the v8volvos fb group I have some pointers on how much and where to make space. once that's complete it'll be time to get the trans in and measure for the driveshaft.

I'm hoping in a week or 2 from now I can do my first test start. I'm not dead set on that as it seems most people take about 3 months to do a v8 swap and I'm only at my 4th week. So its probably good to just pace myself instead of running this like a 100 yard dash.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:24 PM   #8
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Definitely pace yourself, you are way ahead of the curve. Haste makes waste etc. Nice job! I've been working on my 242 swap for a few years.

Very nice looking wagon, love it.
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Old 09-14-2021, 09:13 PM   #9
corivus
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yeah thanks man, I just have to keep telling myself its only been 4 weeks and lots of other have spent a lot more time. It may also help that I'm staying NA for now and possibly going turbo a year from first run date.
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:35 PM   #10
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Mechanically this seems great

And the headlights and corners and grille look like jewelry

But the true way of the SE desires a full grey grille and big gaps to the headlights

A 240 boi would advocate for the correct front end of a special 240

A 740 boi must do the same

*bows before thee*
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:55 AM   #11
corivus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S70T5fivespeed View Post
Mechanically this seems great

And the headlights and corners and grille look like jewelry

But the true way of the SE desires a full grey grille and big gaps to the headlights

A 240 boi would advocate for the correct front end of a special 240

A 740 boi must do the same

*bows before thee*
just say no to hockey sticks :P
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Old Yesterday, 12:59 PM   #12
corivus
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I almost forgot to add these pictures, just routing cables that aren't going back to the transmission and also mocking up the cooling lines. Used a wire hanger and my baseboard angle tool to figure out what bends I'll need to make for the rad hoses.




Also thinking I really should mount the fuse box up higher but I need to figure out some sort of stand off that doesn't just look like a block of wood under it. This position makes it so I don't need to modify the harness coming out of the TAC module for the pedal so I have less points of failure.



Has anyone considered actually removing the whole Volvo fuse block and just running it all through the gm fuse block before? I'm kinda contemplating it but part of me feels like that's probably not the best idea for time sake...

Once the transmission is done it looks like it'll be a lot of little things left to do aside from tuning and exhaust...
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