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Old 05-30-2020, 11:39 PM   #26
VB242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikep View Post
Sleeve it if possible.
Even if you chance welding it, it will need to be bored/honed.

Maybe we can look around and find a block.
Yes I would have my guy bore it and hone it and the other now rusty cylinders again
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:40 AM   #27
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This will get the rust off.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-Brit...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:49 AM   #28
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Thanks, I have brown Scotch Brite too, I just figured he could run the hone down the cylinder. I'm really considering brazing or welding with these rods. It's sucha tiny hole and below the top ring, not sure how much pressure gets to the second ring.
https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/...lectrodes.aspx
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Old 05-31-2020, 02:05 PM   #29
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My opinion: sleeve it, or find another block.
The cost of sleeving the one cylinder will be ~$150 or so.
The price of doing it right is pretty cheap, just makes doing it any other way seem like stepping over dollars to pick up a few pennies.
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Old 05-31-2020, 02:22 PM   #30
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I agree. A sleeve will also take care of that thin spot in the wall.
Don’t use a scotchbrite in anything with bushings. The aluminum oxide particles ate impossible to get back out. I only made that mistake once.
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Old 05-31-2020, 02:56 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
My opinion: sleeve it, or find another block.
The cost of sleeving the one cylinder will be ~$150 or so.
The price of doing it right is pretty cheap, just makes doing it any other way seem like stepping over dollars to pick up a few pennies.
Do you have a recommended sleeve supplier? Darton?
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:08 PM   #32
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Do you have a recommended sleeve supplier? Darton?
Federal Mogul (I think...) and LA Sleeve both make ductile iron sleeves that will fit a redblock.

There was a thread a month or so ago where there were part numbers and suppliers.
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:14 PM   #33
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Ok thank you
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:18 PM   #34
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Here's the offending void, little orange dot, red sharpie is top of piston at BDC.
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:53 PM   #35
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Here’s the thread I was taking about:
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=352674
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Old 05-31-2020, 06:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Here’s the thread I was taking about:
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=352674
Thanks again!
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:43 AM   #37
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Sleeving, as already mentioned, is your best bet.

I don't know how often, or how poorly things are happening, but on my block, I split the wall about that far down. The cylinder bore thickness decreases as the bore descends into the block, via some steps in the coolant passages, and I got an inch(ish) long split way down low in the bore. I forget, but perhaps about that low. About the only thing I could think was that some errant detonation event happened with the piston down low and it popped the bore.

I just went and grabbed another junkyard motor and quickly stipped it down and took to a machine shop for boring, but a sleeve would probably have been cheaper. I just had some suspicions about the other bores. But in this case - there's no suspicion that any of the other bores might be damanged so a sleeve would be easiest and cheapest.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:33 AM   #38
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I dropped it off this morning, will get it back sometime next week. I let the machine shop order the liner, $150.00 installed.
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Old 06-07-2020, 04:44 PM   #39
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Having the same issue on my 940. Took apart the entire cooling system for the most part and found that the stock oil cooler was completely blocked allowing no coolant to come out. Hopefully it didn't do too much damage, but I'm gonna replace all the pipes and do a leak down test. I'll go from there. Just pisses me off this happens right after I replaced the head gasket.
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Old 06-20-2020, 03:20 AM   #40
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Where does Poland keep it's armies?








Up is sleevies



Back to this point, head and oil pan etc going back on tomorrow afternoon.

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Old 06-20-2020, 08:47 PM   #41
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Your oil pan has a leak.
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Old 06-21-2020, 07:15 AM   #42
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$150 a hole? Prices have crept a bit.... 10 years ago it was $100 a hole. My son will be building his engine from a squirter block I bought which had all 4 sleeves installed. I called the machine shop in TN and they reviewed the process.....seems it was dry icing the sleeve, and then some "tonnage" on a hydraulic press to set them. Agree this should be a very robust solution for these tractor engines.

Source of the sleeves was a different supplier that those listed above.... I've got the data somewhere.

Good luck!
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Old 06-26-2020, 02:37 PM   #43
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Just pressure tested the cooling system on my car. Only thing I replaced was the oil cooler and heater pipe that goes to the water pump. Holds PSI just fine and compression test was dead nuts. Somehow the oil cooler must have been leaking in coolant. Honestly don't know how I got that much water in the oil pan, but I'm gonna go ahead and start her up today and see what happens. These cars have the wierdest problems.
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Old 06-28-2020, 02:06 AM   #44
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It's back in the car and full of coolant and oil, fingers crossed I'll be driving it tomorrow once I put the rest of it back together. Slam panel, hood latch, motor mount nuts, down pipe, trans crossmember, transmission oil and shifter, driveshaft, turbo inlet and outlet pipes and air filter, hood, grille and headlight doors, hook up knock sense to microsquirt left to do.
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Old 06-28-2020, 06:36 PM   #45
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:39 PM   #46
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I have one of those if you need it. I think B23 has the tab on opposite B230, and I just cleaned and painted the wrong one for my car.
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Old 06-29-2020, 03:37 PM   #47
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Quote:
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I have one of those if you need it. I think B23 has the tab on opposite B230, and I just cleaned and painted the wrong one for my car.
Thanks, this one is a transplant from a 940, I'm using the water cooled oil cooler instead of the air cooled. I just welded a tab on the other side. I welded up the holes and painted it. It's going back in he car in about an hour, finish up the install and hopefully break it in l tonight. I have to hook up clutch cable, speedometer cable, motor mount nuts, plug in TPS, install slam panel and hood latch, refill with coolant, test the fuel pump and check for leaks, and set the fuel pressure. Then it's truth time.
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Old 06-30-2020, 12:03 AM   #48
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It's alive, BUT, what's broken in this picture?
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Old 06-30-2020, 12:26 AM   #49
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Ohhhh, I like puzzles, I'll guess ROH.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:54 AM   #50
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... The head didn't want to sit down on the spacers that go around the head bolts on the right side, I tapped it down with a plastic hammer before I torqued it down. I mangled them a little getting them out before the the machine work, maybe they're causing the problem?
FYI, I recall removing these with guidance from mikeP....use a socket that just barely fits inside the alignment dowel sleeve, then use vise grip pliers to grab it and twist it out. The socket supports it from the inside, preventing it from being crushed and distorted.

My first engine build with Mike's help was a B21F bored to 96mm. It had a water-leak-into-the-oil condition that cropped up in the first 50 miles or so. I'd take it for a drive for maybe 15-20min, get it hot, and upon returning home found the oil to be like a milkshake. I acquired the block for free, already bored to std b23 size, and with piano wire o-rings in the deck. I guess we should have tried pulling the wire from the deck and throw in another Elring just in case....but that block got scrapped, a b23f block got prepped, and it went back together and ran that way from about 2006 til I parked the card in ~2015.
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