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Engine build plans (after my last post and research)

OldTank

New member
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
So... please any thoughts on this as a build plan, as been reading heaps about the other b230f+ builds here.

So heres the current plan.

Main Block:
1. I have a b230f 1991 (will check with a camera if it has bolts in the squirter holes), otherwise hunting for a b230f "L" from mid 90's.
2. Add forged stronger conrods well it's out.
3. Turbo Oil return drilled out.

Head and Manifold area:
4. 531 Head out of my donor car.
5. Advice as it has an "A" cam but looking at a IPD performance cam. Which is better and why?
6. Manifold out of the b230et (as read its stronger and slightly better flow than a ft manifold and what I actually have, not sure if this is correct).
7. New Gaskets and seals all around.

Turbo and Intercooler
8. The Garret Turbo (factory but reconditioned).
9. Clutch performance (still researching any ideas here please)
10. Air intake K & M filter from the b230et
11. Aftermarket intercooler (still researching any ideas here please)

Other
12. New engine and gearbox mounts
12. Automatic transmission (cause my left legs abit busted so no manuals for me cry...)
13. Factory original turbo gauge installed into cluster. (are you selling please pm me)
14. Intake Manifold (still researching any ideas here please)
15. Injector upgrade (still researching any ideas here please)

Loom and ECU
15. I have a 1987 760 ecu from the b230et and loom no idea about this stuff. and what I should trade it for so advice here will save me a lot of time. ie use or buy a new 940 loom and ecu to chip.
 
The ECu is a 1346329 model number. I cant tell if its a montronic but think probably as out of a 1987 760 GLE turbo. Should I just buy a 940 ecu and loom? like a LH 2.1 (thin thats it. Mid 90's b230ft one).
 
Enem v16t is a good camshaft for your build.
And i recommend something newer to handle fuel and spark, something that is not a LH.
 
The ECu is a 1346329 model number. I cant tell if its a montronic but think probably as out of a 1987 760 GLE turbo. Should I just buy a 940 ecu and loom? like a LH 2.1 (thin thats it. Mid 90's b230ft one).

I have no idea what system that box is from -- it's referred to as a "Volvo/Luxor Injector Amp", with partial details here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=2523514
I'd convert to a LH2.2 or a LH2.4 system from a B230FT if those are common enough in your country. The LH2.2 has a crank position sensor on the distributor, LH2.4 has the sensor off the edge of the flywheel.

You'll want a 240 wiring harness - see this thread for info
LH2.4 Install/Conversion. Just a few wires to make it run

Do you know if the flywheel has a 60-2 tooth pattern with a CPS crank position sensor on top of the engine-to-tranny bellhousing line?

How about the distributor - is it head mount (won't fit a 240) or block mount?
 
Hi bobxyz. Those resources are awesome.

Thanks for the advice I'll check what my 240 b230f currently runs.

But if its the 2.2 then If have to get / install a crank position sensor on the fly wheel ah? Thats what you mean by looking for it on the bellhousing line?

I also checked the side of the block and it has the oil squiter bumps (1991 September engine). If it has the bumps will squirters just bolt on? As seen some saying they have to be drilled.

The distributor is already on the b230f in my 240. So already in the right place.

Do you know if the A and ipd performance cams are better? and by how much?

I really appreciate your time so thanks for the advice. I'm trying to learn quickly for 0% knowledge.. lol
 
Hi bobxyz. Those resources are awesome.

Thanks for the advice I'll check what my 240 b230f currently runs.

But if its the 2.2 then If have to get / install a crank position sensor on the fly wheel ah? Thats what you mean by looking for it on the bellhousing line?

I also checked the side of the block and it has the oil squiter bumps (1991 September engine). If it has the bumps will squirters just bolt on? As seen some saying they have to be drilled.

The distributor is already on the b230f in my 240. So already in the right place.

Do you know if the A and ipd performance cams are better? and by how much?

I really appreciate your time so thanks for the advice. I'm trying to learn quickly for 0% knowledge.. lol

Engine won't have squirters. If you want to add, you will have to drill.
 
I'd forgotten the details from your earlier thread [url]http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=361265[/URL]:
I have a question. I have a standard NA 1991 240 GL wagon and looking at the turbo install (my aim is to build a 200-240hp max engine) and have a few questions.

On a whim I bought a beat up 760 turbo intercooler 1987 with a b230et. (I'd been looking for a b230ft for ages)
...
I'm in New Zealand.

Your 240 most likely already has LH2.4, which makes it much easier to convert to Turbo.

Your homework assignment is to learn how to post pictures (see [url]http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=344659[/URL])
and to take a picture of the Bosch label on your ECU box to confirm that it's LH2.4. In the US, the ECU is on the outside wall of the passenger foot well. While you're at it, include a couple pictures of the 240 and 760 engine bays.

You could do the conversion in two steps:
1) convert your existing NA engine in-place to turbo (a NA engine converted to turbo is referred to as "+T")
-- install turbo, exhaust manifold, intercooler, hoses, and CBV CompressorBypassValve from the 760
-- relocate the MAF (if needed on a RHD 240), and figure out the air filter
-- replace ECU and EZK boxes with Turbo versions, replace injectors with higher flow turbo injectors
-- add turbo oil return hose to oil pan, and run oil feed to front of block
-- figure out all the other little bits to get it running
2) rebuild your B230ET on an engine stand, and swap later
 
Thank you bob xyz. Yip homework assignment it is with some photos. (Wednesday night)

So CBV looks to be missing in the 760 but I'll look through the stuff in the boot tomorrow as there were two things from memory that looked similar. As was also missing the intercooler, and various other pipe work and little bits, mass airflow metre etc etc.

Also its ran a montronic ecu as just checked, but as soon as I took the screws out to remove it, it was full of rusty coloured water (I'll post some photos on Wednesday), I'd say its well toast.. as had about 1/2 a cup in there as it had been outside for a couple of years). The EZK looks fine.

Lots to learn as so new to actually doing mechanical work myself. Time for photos (it might be a couple of days) and post them. Once again thanks for advice and ideas.
 
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this is the wagon cereal number (88) looks like a LH 2.4

This is the wagons ezk model looks like a ezk 116?

I have no idea how to find the ecu on the right hand drive. I thought is was beside the ezk but no. Any ideas and or photos people to find it.


This is Ylva

Flowing photos are the 760 including the water filled ecu. We have started removing the 531 head for the A cam and will take out the turbo and manifold but no idea where the CBV CompressorBypassValve from the 760 is.






This is the classi 240 engine bay and the rear quarter of the wagon for those like me who like the wagons back side... lol



 
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also Bobxyz I'll be doing option 1) you recommended with just the 531 head and A cam switched over. (I may do that after I actually get the turbo done as per your first option 1). Otherwise things might get too complicated for my very average understanding of what I am doing.

But if I can I'd love to do it all at once.
 
Nice looking 245!

It's definitely LH2.4. You'll need a Turbo ECU (for example, 0 280 000 937) and a Turbo EZK (e.g. 0 227 400 148). The earlier 5xx series ECU have reliability problems. Some of the ECU/EZK combinations expect an EGR valve, some don't. There a good spreadsheet somewhere with lots more details.

If no one knows where the LH2.4 ECU is located on a RHD 240, you can find the big harness bundle in the engine compartment and trace it into the car. Roughly half the wires go to the ECU, a little less than half to the EZK, and ~10 to the gauge cluster connector.

You'll also need higher flow turbo injectors and, if the originals, you'll need the resistor pack and a harness piece from the 760. Try searching for "resistor pack" in for sale and see if you can find a picture if you don't know what it looks like.

The compressor bypass valve goes between the turbo outlet and the intercooler. It's needed with a factory Garrett T3 turbo. You may be able to find one used, or buy one aftermarket. A blow off valve is similar, but won't work well with LH2.4 due to the blown-off mixture not going into the engine. The Mitsubishi TDxx turbos have the bypass valve built in.

It looks like both the 240 and 760 are autos. The 760 may have the slightly better AW71 instead of the AW70. What condition are they in?

When swapping engines, you may need the LH2.4 flexplate from the 240. The 760 Motronic? flexplate may not have the correct 60-2 (sixty minus two) tooth pattern. You may also need to swap aux shafts if the 760 one doesn't have the drive gear for the block mounted distributor.

You'll reuse the 240 wiring harness, and will need to extend the ~5 MAF wires to relocate the MAF to between the air filter and turbo inlet.

Adding a turbo oil drain to the 240 oil pan requires removing the oil pan, which is somewhat challenging to do in place if the engine isn't removed.

I don't know if there is anything special needed to convert a RHD 240 to Turbo - all the 240s around here are LHD, which leaves more room on the turbo side of the engine.
 
hi Bobxyz. Yip found a spreadsheet thats helping me search up the right ecu and ezk numbers.

What are good options for high flow injectors?

Also should I take the 760's fuel pump while I'm at it?

Compressor bypass valve now on shopping list.

The 760's auto trans is shot... So using the 240's auto. (plus my left suffered a major injury a few years ago so auto's I say for now. The legs probably stuffed for good in all honesty. (oh I'd love a manual cry... but at least I'm walking and back at work now)

I've almost got the head off the b230et and so will put onto my existing b230f in-place if I'm brave enough given my current knowledge and skill.

As leaving the rest in the 760 for the guy taking away. (I also took the seat heater switches, found $3 change and took a few other bits.

Will relocate the MAF sensor (great advice)

Yeah oil pan will provide some changes I'll look into that this week and might ask your thoughts.

Where do I run the oil feed to the turbo from off the engine. the 760 has a fancy oil cooler radiator I should probably take that too ah?

Then is it just plug and play with the ecu and ezk and turbo goes.

That almost seems too easy. Is that because the LH 2.4 I have in my car just matches the loom essentially. If so by luck buying a 1990's 240 wagon was a great decision.
 
Hello I have been offered a ecu 954 turbo 1994.

Would that be chipable? How do I tell if it is?
 
Wow. Thanks. So my current ecu I can just chip to run a turbo chip being a LH 2.4?

That would make me pretty happy chappy.... not having to buy a new one.

What about my EZK (pictured above?) is that the same deal with it being chippable.

Cause if so my day just got pretty awesome and will order chips tonight. Saves me $400NZ cause I have to buy most parts overseas as everyone holds onto the good bits here.
 
You can open up the EZK to see if it's chippable. 219 EZK (turbo+egr, now chipped to non-egr) here as example:
71222-126f8c3ff25731903b690e1468d3cb03.jpg
 
The 954 is about the best of the LH2.4 boxes. Its factory chip is for Turbo (bigger injectors) and EGR. Is the 760 engine/exhaust manifold setup for EGR? I think you can use the 954 with a non-EGR setup, but idle may be a little off (I'd see if someone else can verify this). Or, you can get a 937 Turbo non-EGR chip and swap it in.

For the EZK, there are EGR and non-EGR versions. If you use a EGR version without an EGR, it will turn on the check-engine-light [see recent post on how to bypass this]. I recently ran across a nice chart here: https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/12869/740-940-list-of-ez-116k-icu-units-used-with-lh-2-4

In general, the Gold colored boxes are factory chippable (I think this is all the yellow highlighted ones in the chart). You can also convert a black box EZK to chippable with an electronics kit, for example, https://www.classicswede.co.uk/EZK_Daughterboard/p1733344_17042139.aspx.

I don't know who supplies chips in your area, but you might be able to get a couple factory non-custom tuned chips for cheaper than performance chips. You could start with these and then see if want to add other performance mods that need performance chips.

From the 760, I'd keep:
- engine and accessories hanging off it, including any oil cooler and/or offset oil filter adapter
- whatever's left of the intercooler, mounting brackets, hoses
- engine bay engine harnesses (just for spare connectors/wires)
- exhaust down pipe (it won't fit the 240, but the flange can be reused)
- turbo / intercooler badges - you can "saw" through the foam rubber mounting with nylon kite string (or maybe fishing line)
 
Sweet. Yip robbed the engine blind. Oil cooler and adaptor as well.
Took the manifolds brackets and hoses.
Cut off a bunch of the clips and put them in a box
Cutting the exhaust flange off this weekend.
Badges as well. Thanks fr the tip on how to take them.

Yeah next is engine management. Found a ECU 954. Which I believe is chipable, and either pre-rewired ezk or a gold box chipable. But just finding out shipping.

The 531 heads in excellent shape and has an A cam. Turbo I thought was stuffed but my mate knows alot more than me and reckons its good as. Plus found the Compressor bypass.

Another mate has the same intercooler randomly in his shed so that will work.

Will look at seals and gasket kits and do the exhaust drive around for pricing shortly as well as source the piping. Photos tomorrow of the 531. As also going to see how much porting and polishing is while I'm doing it.
 
at least in my experience all the gold boxes are chippable. i had a gold 175, 207, and 231 and they all had the daughter-board.
 
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