yugo4life
New member
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2009
- Location
- Peoria, IL
***Current status***
- Running LH2.2 with 2.0 harness. No longer switching back and forth between 2.0 and 2.2 for simplicities sake.
- Pin#2 at ECU matches resistance directly at ECT sensor for various temperatures. Idle increases when ECT connector is unplugged.
- Idle increases when TPS is unplugged.
- No change in idle or performance when IAC valve is unplugged.
- Voltage at O2 sensor when warm is right around 0.104 volts. It starts at 0.125ish when the car is first started, but then settles quickly. When I blip the throttle, it increases to 0.116ish, but doesn't seem to change when I unplug the FPR vacuum line or spray ether into the intake. Nothing seems to change in idle or performance when O2 sensor is unplugged.
- Verified that brake booster, line, and check valve are good. No change in performance when these are bypassed.
- My cam sprocket pin has not been visually inspected, but the cam gear and crank line up perfectly when at TDC. Static timing has been checked and is spot on.
- Fuel filter, external fuel pump and O2 sensor have all been replaced.
- Valve cover and intake grounds cleaned.
- Has plenty of power when I was using LH2.0, but it had its own issues. I have ruled out fuel pressure because of this.
******************************
Last year, I switched from LH2.0 to LH2.2 in my 84 244 using the original 84 harness and repinning the AMM connector. All has worked generally well until last week. I went to back out of my driveway and as I pulled onto the street, the car died. It restarted like normal, but would die as soon as I shifted into drive or reverse (or even blipped the throttle). The idle was also a bit higher than normal, but would still die with any load.
I unplugged the AMM and nothing seemed to happen so I assumed the AMM was bad. To test the theory, I switched back over to LH2.0. It idled a bit rougher than 2.2 did when good, but otherwise seemed just fine. Over the course of this last week, it has continuously run worse every day until now it barely moves. It is running extremely rich as evidenced by plugs and general smell. There is a noticeable change in idle when plugging/unplugging the AMM. Two very odd observations - When it is first started after disconnecting the battery, it will run GREAT for about two minutes, smooth idle, good power (for a stock B23), etc. Then instantly will start running like crap, poor idle, rich smell, etc. It barely gets out of its own way. The other odd thing is that when it starts running like this, the brake pedal gets very hard, like the booster is no longer working. It will feel fine and normal during that initial two minutes though.
Recap:
LH2.2 - Idles just fine but will die when any load is applied. No change in idle when AMM is unplugged.
LH2.0 - Idles rough, smells rich and plugs were fouled. Idle changes when AMM is unplugged. Can't really get over 30ish mph. Runs great for a few minutes after battery is disconnected, but instantly reverts back to crap. Brake pedal is very hard when it is running like crap.
I am really stuck on what I should check next. I thought for sure it was the LH2.2 AMM, but now it makes me think that it is something else (or something additional) that is causing me woes since LH2.0 is having fits too. Could it be a vacuum leak, hence the brake booster not working as normal? I fixed one hose that was cracked, but it made no difference. It connects to the manifold right above the throttle body and goes down under the drivers side frame rail. I couldn't find any other leak points, but I will spray everything down tonight to see if I missed anything.
Am I just missing something obvious here? I did recently replace the ECM temp sensor a few months ago, maybe I disturbed the harness there and now its not reading correctly? I will check resistance at the ECM. Any other possibilities? Maybe two bad AMM's?
Thanks, Tim
- Running LH2.2 with 2.0 harness. No longer switching back and forth between 2.0 and 2.2 for simplicities sake.
- Pin#2 at ECU matches resistance directly at ECT sensor for various temperatures. Idle increases when ECT connector is unplugged.
- Idle increases when TPS is unplugged.
- No change in idle or performance when IAC valve is unplugged.
- Voltage at O2 sensor when warm is right around 0.104 volts. It starts at 0.125ish when the car is first started, but then settles quickly. When I blip the throttle, it increases to 0.116ish, but doesn't seem to change when I unplug the FPR vacuum line or spray ether into the intake. Nothing seems to change in idle or performance when O2 sensor is unplugged.
- Verified that brake booster, line, and check valve are good. No change in performance when these are bypassed.
- My cam sprocket pin has not been visually inspected, but the cam gear and crank line up perfectly when at TDC. Static timing has been checked and is spot on.
- Fuel filter, external fuel pump and O2 sensor have all been replaced.
- Valve cover and intake grounds cleaned.
- Has plenty of power when I was using LH2.0, but it had its own issues. I have ruled out fuel pressure because of this.
******************************
Last year, I switched from LH2.0 to LH2.2 in my 84 244 using the original 84 harness and repinning the AMM connector. All has worked generally well until last week. I went to back out of my driveway and as I pulled onto the street, the car died. It restarted like normal, but would die as soon as I shifted into drive or reverse (or even blipped the throttle). The idle was also a bit higher than normal, but would still die with any load.
I unplugged the AMM and nothing seemed to happen so I assumed the AMM was bad. To test the theory, I switched back over to LH2.0. It idled a bit rougher than 2.2 did when good, but otherwise seemed just fine. Over the course of this last week, it has continuously run worse every day until now it barely moves. It is running extremely rich as evidenced by plugs and general smell. There is a noticeable change in idle when plugging/unplugging the AMM. Two very odd observations - When it is first started after disconnecting the battery, it will run GREAT for about two minutes, smooth idle, good power (for a stock B23), etc. Then instantly will start running like crap, poor idle, rich smell, etc. It barely gets out of its own way. The other odd thing is that when it starts running like this, the brake pedal gets very hard, like the booster is no longer working. It will feel fine and normal during that initial two minutes though.
Recap:
LH2.2 - Idles just fine but will die when any load is applied. No change in idle when AMM is unplugged.
LH2.0 - Idles rough, smells rich and plugs were fouled. Idle changes when AMM is unplugged. Can't really get over 30ish mph. Runs great for a few minutes after battery is disconnected, but instantly reverts back to crap. Brake pedal is very hard when it is running like crap.
I am really stuck on what I should check next. I thought for sure it was the LH2.2 AMM, but now it makes me think that it is something else (or something additional) that is causing me woes since LH2.0 is having fits too. Could it be a vacuum leak, hence the brake booster not working as normal? I fixed one hose that was cracked, but it made no difference. It connects to the manifold right above the throttle body and goes down under the drivers side frame rail. I couldn't find any other leak points, but I will spray everything down tonight to see if I missed anything.
Am I just missing something obvious here? I did recently replace the ECM temp sensor a few months ago, maybe I disturbed the harness there and now its not reading correctly? I will check resistance at the ECM. Any other possibilities? Maybe two bad AMM's?
Thanks, Tim
Last edited:
