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Old 03-16-2013, 04:00 PM   #51
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So far so good, replaced a bunch of engine stuff, turns out so far that the way I rewired my AMM to work on the other side of the bay was subpar, the wire thickness and age were all different, probably what caused my CEL and miss at idle. I hope that was it because I don't know what else would cause a 121. I did replace the AMM with a clean working one along with a clean and working IAC with new piping. Got a new turbo intake hose installed too.

Engine has smoothed out quite a bit at idle, along with my RPM's not acting up and the engine being quieter.

I got the car inspected as well, turns out my bad tailshaft in the AW70 caused a leak which I knew about, turns out that leak destroyed my driveshaft support and my transmission mount. Probably going to replace those when I drop in another transmission, otherwise it would just be a waste of time and money right now.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:01 PM   #52
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Well, was at the Orlando GTG



Thanks for the pic ralph


Anyways I sadly can't swap in the transmission I want to because of my family and lack of money, so I will have to live with an aw71 until I can afford a T5 swap. Hoping to get the Aw71 done within a month or two.

Trying to maybe plan out a better engine to put in there 1-2 years down the road, more or less a built one that does't slap.

I'll see, but for now putting in the Aw is on the list with lowering it.

Plan is to get used IPD sways, IPD springs new, Bilstein HD used, Used adjustable torque rods and panhard rod. Longer studs in the rear with spacers.

Last edited by Simi; 12-07-2014 at 12:05 AM..
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:36 AM   #53
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Looks very nice
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:29 PM   #54
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Car has come along way! That expanding foam still scares me.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:18 PM   #55
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All salty

Anyway my driveshaft support took a **** after today so I got to make a decision soon on a transmission swap.

Now I have to wash off all the salt and sand.

Last edited by Simi; 04-27-2013 at 09:00 PM..
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:31 PM   #56
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So i've made my decision.

AW71 now, T5 later.

Sad to say but I do have all the parts to swap in and reseal the AW71 without having to spend any more money. I am having to save up to go to Germany anyways in July so my funds are going to be tight.

Anyways my plans are...

Transmission / Trans Cooler
Driveshaft Mount
Install Oil Cooler
Rear Fenders rolled
Spacers on the rear
Adjustable Panhard
Install Walbro 255
Lowering springs / Cut springs
Sways
Shocks and Struts

THEN T5
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:34 PM   #57
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Well screw doing anything in order.





Got these to install and probably going to cut the front and rear springs for now. They are worn out anyway, what do I have to lose?

At least I have the transmission cooler installed, but I think I installed it backwards so it goes through the radiator after being externally cooled, not sure.

Transmission / Trans Cooler
Driveshaft Mount
Install Oil Cooler
Rear Fenders rolled
Spacers on the rear
Adjustable Panhard
Install Walbro 255
Lowering springs / Cut springs
Sways
Shocks and Struts
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:44 PM   #58
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Updates...

Planning on getting the driveshaft mount done along with the trans mount either mon or tues.

Getting the fenders rolled hopefully tues.

Getting a detail done this weekend but that is up in the air.

Today I got in my IPD sway bar bushings.

Last edited by Simi; 05-24-2013 at 07:40 PM..
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #59
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Put in the rear shocks and rear sway, front sway goes in either tomorrow or Tuesday.

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Old 05-31-2013, 06:06 PM   #60
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Ok, updates...

Keeping the aw70 for awhile, the only problem with it is the tailshaft bushing and seal is really bad. Ordered a kit and the total price to get it fixed is 155. It is 450 to do a full aw71 swap but I'd rather put that 450 towards a T5

Driveshaft CSB and Trans mount are done, really happy about that.

Rear fenders are getting rolled Monday

Ordered a set of 5mm spacers so when I get the fenders rolled, I won't be rubbing the inside either anymore.

Getting a full Exterior detail on Saturday to help preserve the paint.

Transmission / Trans Cooler
Driveshaft Mount
Install Oil Cooler
Rear Fenders rolled
Spacers on the rear
Adjustable Panhard
Install Walbro 255
Lowering springs / Cut springs
Sways
Shocks and Struts
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:13 PM   #61
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Geez, where was I?

Rear brake rotors and front brake rotors need to be replaced. The rears have cracks on them so I ordered a new set of rotors which I am waiting to put on.

Fenders have been rolled really nicely, 5mm spacers fit perfectly. I haven't rubbed since.

Alternator now squeals on startup and it looks to be crooked.
It came at an inopportune time but hey, the original 80 amp doesn't like my Efan or foglights and will drop to 12.5 volts when I turn on my exterior lights.

So now THAT has to be done. While the alternator is out, would be a good time to install the oil cooler and install my oil sensor. Do the bushings, belts and install a 100A denso.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:03 AM   #62
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Well a bunch of stuff.

Main bit of it was swapping the alternator, replacing the alternator mount bushings and finally since all the stuff is off, install the oil cooler.

Yesterday, took the alternator out including its mount. Got the final piece I needed to install the oil cooler lines, the bracket that holds the lines to the engine and finally got some more parts from the yard to list on ebay.

Larger old 80A alternator.



Newer Smaller 100A alternator.



Alternator bushings are go



All the stuff off.




TODAY

It was interesting, got both alts tested. Old one failed on the final test which I forgot why. I guess the voltage drop when hot and under heavy load would do it.

Second one the guy pulled a fast one on me, he hooked it up wrong to begin with and I didn't stop him. They have the same connections too. He couldn't get voltage to come off of that one and proceeded to sell me another alternator.

Went another place and it passed just fine because the guy knew how to hook up 3 wires.


Now there is one thing that made me hate this car more than anything.

It's a stud but not just any stud. An oil filter stud. It had to be removed because I was installing a sandwich plate to run the oil cooler feed and return.

That was what I had to install, what was in the block was smaller.


My father fought with it for about an hour and gave up. Of course telling me that I was an idiot for doing this and I ****ed my car over. Great....

I went through a pipe wrench, channel locks and vice grips. I almost broke them it was that horrible. So finally about to give up, I found out that if you use a hammer, it will unseat the stud from the block after 24 years. Sure enough it came out like that.

Here is what was left of it



This is what I thought of it



So otherwise got this done



Don't worry, im not running that cheap chinese **** filter at all, had to size it because the oil return I made for the turbo wont work, it is going straight out and the line is hitting the oil cooler lines and now the oil filter. I did not prepare for unforseen consequences but that can be solved by a 5/8 45 deg elbow.

Installed the cooler



Installed the lines



And that's the end of day 2

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Old 06-24-2013, 10:34 PM   #63
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I'm very impressed. You've done great work here and have a really nice ride. Wish my own son could take up a project like this the way you have. Great job! I would love to own this car now myself. It's amazing and beautiful too.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:16 PM   #64
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Thanks! It's a big work in progress though.

I think I got everything done now, the oil cooler block adapter is all tightened up now so there are no more leaks and the car is putting out a solid 14v at idle regardless of if the Efan is on or not.

I think that is it, I have yet to give it a drive down the street, which I will do soon.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:16 PM   #65
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Done



Denso Positive terminal cover touches the oil filter. Anyone else have this problem?



There are some clearance issues now with the car, It is a lot harder to remove the oil filter now and it has to be take off all the way by one of those half wrenches. Everytime I do the filter I have to remove the oil drain pipe, so I have to relocate that sometime.

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Old 08-09-2013, 03:25 PM   #66
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I have been lacking in updates to this thread.

Sourced a set of TME lowering springs that will go on the car. Hopefully soon.

I am getting my tailshaft bushing fixed tomorrow since I am so indecisive on what I want to do with the transmission. I decided to get this one fixed and run good fluid till it explodes.

Need to get my wheel bearing done on the passenger side.

Rewired my taillights and removed the circuit boards. I wired them up like an old 240 turbo so that the outside lights under the turn signals and the foglights are switched. I think it looks great and it solved all my taillight issues.


Also some interior shots that I have been neglecting to do along with pics of my new steering wheel directly from Deutschland.







Also Engine

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Old 08-13-2013, 07:51 PM   #67
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Looks great, great work!
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:30 AM   #68
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+++ 100!
Man this thing is just too clean. Where's the dirt and oil in the under-carriage? You need to fix that.
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Rewired my taillights and removed the circuit boards. I wired them up like an old 240 turbo so that the outside lights under the turn signals and the foglights are switched. I think it looks great and it solved all my taillight issues.
That is ... well for lack of better words, jam up!

A/C works? If it does then Ima come steal it with those awesome dash gauges!.
Great job!

PS: Those speakers are cool too!
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:14 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doucheNozzle View Post
Car has come along way! That expanding foam still scares me.
+1
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:00 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clipster View Post
+++ 100!
Man this thing is just too clean. Where's the dirt and oil in the under-carriage? You need to fix that.

That is ... well for lack of better words, jam up!

A/C works? If it does then Ima come steal it with those awesome dash gauges!.
Great job!

PS: Those speakers are cool too!
Oh, it's developed a nice little leak from the front cam seal or something along those lines.

Fixed the trans leak and the engine starts leaking

AC did work before the swap, high pressure line snapped clean off at the compressor and I got a $360 quote to get it working again. Already been converted to R134.


Also why is everyone afraid of the foam?


Also:

Transmission / Trans Cooler - Keeping in the AW70 for a bit longer
Driveshaft Mount
Install Oil Cooler
Rear Fenders rolled
Spacers on the rear

Adjustable Panhard
Install Walbro 255
Lowering springs - Ended up with IPD ones.
Sways
Shocks and Struts

Last edited by Simi; 08-15-2013 at 09:28 PM..
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:15 PM   #71
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Well I guess it ain't a brick unless it's got all the grunge cover underneath. I missed the foam fear thing but I remember something about it from the forum in my inbox today. I guess they're talking like spray can expando-foam stuff you get from home depot? That stuff is great, but it is nasty. If you touch it it will stay with you like the Borg. But then again I could have positively no idea what I'm making assumptions about foam fear. lol.

I guess a 'shop price' of 360 to fix that busted high pressure line, evacuate and recharge isn't too far off the mark. I do all my own ac work, but I'm also in a service industry so ymmv. If I were in the a/c biz... that's probably what I'd charge for it too as I hate volvo's a/c installations/components on these cars (especially when it comes to high pressure 134). 360 is fair pricing imo.

Then again, there are the elitists that would go to the stealer-ship and pay 3 times that price in a blink....
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:11 PM   #72
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So now I am routing the turbo oil feed out of the front of the block, I have run into one problem though.

Since I still have a timing belt cover, I have no way of installing the 90 degree fitting so I got a straight one and used the line which already had a 90 deg bend in it.

Problem is that it hits the alternator tensioner bolt, so I have to shorten it. Anyone else run into this problem?

Otherwise I put the old oil pressure sender in its stock location and fixed the oil drain. Also turns out the cam seal is leaking oil everywhere so I got to get that done asap.
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:36 PM   #73
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This happened:



Also I found out my low dyno numbers are because of my wastegate actuator. I used another temporarily and the car would flat out GO.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:26 PM   #74
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More go fast bits, car is great now that I got a different 15g actuator, getting a 13c actuator tomorrow which will be great.

Also, my black npr is installed, no spacers or nothing. Direct fit other than the oil cooler bracket (and trans cooler if you have one.)

Car is set about 12 psi or so, really fun.

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Old 09-29-2013, 11:52 AM   #75
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Wiper motor died on tuesday, picked up another on wednesday and installed it, works like a charm.

Removed that stupid sound deading material too that actually made the old wiper motor start to rust through.

Got the 13c actuator on. Absolutely perfect, fixed all my boost issues and now it sits at a solid 10 psi and now the car goes fast.

Got another set of speaker grills with the grill part punched out because the speakers I have installed would hit the old grills.

Life is good.


Also car lizard


Last edited by Simi; 09-29-2013 at 05:24 PM..
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