• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Jimbo's Green Wagon: 1972 145S

My old M41 held up fine behind my B23ft for a while. It still worked when I put the T5 in. I did a few dumb burnouts in it, too. For scientific purposes.
 
Id say that it wont last super long at 200, and the m410 is a pretty rare trans to destroy... my m41 was starting to get gravel-y at 7psi on the b18 wornout setup. Then it sounded like it was going to explode in 1st and 2nd with the b20 at 12psi... went to the t5, and it has been less noisy even at 22psi on the b20. I did use the billet cluster support and a new gearset/mainshaft. That hasnt been as great as I thought, so I need to get it on a dyno to figure out TQ #s for this setup before I make the transmission decision again. I did find that G-Force doesnt really offer the old t5 dog box kits, but they have some wiggle room to be swayed into making another run of straight cut 5 dog gear sets.
 
I agree. There's no sense in destroying a rare m410 just to run it a couple of months then have to do all the swap work anyway. I would sell it while its still in good condition and use those funds to do the t5 swap. You've already done it before, so shouldn't be a problem. Mine as well do it once and not have to worry about it. Plus let some other vintage volvo enthusiast enjoy the rare upgrade parts.

Also I started to put together a b20 supercharger build as well, but have been too busy/distracted to finish it recently. Looking forward to seeing what direction you go with this.
 
The supercharger isn't happening as the B20F I picked up needs a ton of machine work.

I ordered a set of overload rear springs from VP Autoparts (#683290, Lesjofors brand) in April as it was obvious the ones on the car were worn out. I finally motivated myself enough today to actually get them along with KYB Gas-A-Just shocks installed. The uninstalled height is pretty much the same between the new and original springs (maybe 1/2" difference), however, the steel used in the new springs is maybe 33% thicker than the Volvo ones. You can see the difference below. Up front, I still have the original springs along with Bilstein HD's. Long term, I'm going to lower the whole car some (1-1.5"), but would like to keep a stiff spring in the rear to allow for heavy loads. The before and after pictures both have roughly the same weight in the rear end (a set of steelies/tires, sway bar, tools, misc crap in the rear seat).

FQCYhiDl.jpg

Q5EBrsFl.jpg

4lzGWFIl.jpg

bwoZp6ul.jpg

5EbWAK6l.jpg
 
You guys do realize that the front wheel openings are larger than the rear ones, just like on a 240, right? :)
 
Over the last week and a half, I acquired some good parts for the car that have filled most of what I was missing. He campaigned an SCCA ITB 142 for about 25 years and built a bunch of spare engines that he ended up never actually running in the car. He's basically liquidating his whole collection because he doesn't race anymore.

I bought one of the engines with the following specs:
- 6 bolt B20 bored 40 over (2.032L) with balanced rotating assembly, oil pump drive reinforcing ring, updated front and rear main seals
- Ported/polished B20F head skimmed to 3.365" for roughly 9.5:1 SCR, hardened steel seats, bronze valve guides
- Isky VV171 cam, IPD "high-rev" valvetrain with double springs, lightened lifters, 5/16 pushrods, matched rockers, steel timing set

I also picked up an excellent condition M41 with cross member and driveshaft and some other fun parts. I was able to also get an MSD 6AL box and a vintage rusty IPD 4-1 header that I'll use as a template to make my own. I just ordered some miscellaneous gaskets, a speedo cable, and a clutch so I can hopefully swap the engine this week and start driving it.
 
Nice! Get a thinner headgasket to up the compression some more if it’s apart. Shoot for .030” piston to head surface gap. Also, don’t expect it to make more than 120-130whp, depending on what you do for fuel And air delivery... You can also run a rusty header, just clean up the mating surface! Hah
 
Nice! Get a thinner headgasket to up the compression some more if it?s apart. Shoot for .030? piston to head surface gap. Also, don?t expect it to make more than 120-130whp, depending on what you do for fuel And air delivery... You can also run a rusty header, just clean up the mating surface! Hah

I'm about 90% certain he's running a B/E (thin) head gasket on this. I bought it completely assembled. That's about the power I was looking to make- more than stock, and far more than a mystery B18. Long term, I am still going to rebuild that B20F for boost as I still want to experiment with it.

I get some pictures of the header. The surface rust isn't the problem, it's the gaping holes in the bottom of the primaries.
 
I'm about 90% certain he's running a B/E (thin) head gasket on this. I bought it completely assembled. That's about the power I was looking to make- more than stock, and far more than a mystery B18. Long term, I am still going to rebuild that B20F for boost as I still want to experiment with it.

I get some pictures of the header. The surface rust isn't the problem, it's the gaping holes in the bottom of the primaries.

Make up a jig, and get a SBC long tube header kit. It was cheaper than individual bends IIRC. Then you get 2 tries to work with. :-P
 
I'm about 90% certain he's running a B/E (thin) head gasket on this. I bought it completely assembled. That's about the power I was looking to make- more than stock, and far more than a mystery B18. Long term, I am still going to rebuild that B20F for boost as I still want to experiment with it.

I get some pictures of the header. The surface rust isn't the problem, it's the gaping holes in the bottom of the primaries.
Doh! Sounds good. :)
Make up a jig, and get a SBC long tube header kit. It was cheaper than individual bends IIRC. Then you get 2 tries to work with. :-P
I like it! 44.5mm/1.75" primaries at the largest if 4-2-1.
 
So I yanked the B18 on Tuesday in preparation for the B20/M41 going in. I spent Wednesday trying to get the shortened DS ready as well as cleaning some stuff up. Thursday was powerwash the engine bay, new rear main seal and clutch, swap over the manifold studs, and throw the B20 in. Intake/exhaust manifold is installed as is the alternator, clutch fan, radiator, and fuel line. I left the M41 to drain overnight. I have 40W oil for it as well as 15W-40 for the engine. I'll slightly overfill the trans before putting it in. I also need to make wires for the reverse light switch and overdrive solenoid.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a first fire video.

ZULGoHil.jpg

79owSI7l.jpg

VKea4Pkl.jpg
 
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z1YK1JyT1jg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
In other news, my order to VP for a full rear end poly bushing kit, UCA and LCA poly bushings, and upper and lower ball joints arrived.

For some unknown reason, I have a driveline vibration around 25 mph on acceleration only. U-joints and carrier bearing are in good shape, the rubber isn't the best but is still firm. When I went to install the driveshaft, there was a 1/4" gap between the output shaft flange and the driveshaft itself. After I got all the bolts snugged evenly, everything turned and felt fine.

Also, when I bought the car, whenever you let off the throttle, the entire shifter would torque one direction because the trans and engine mounts were completely wasted. I installed new B30 engine mounts and a new m41 engine mount and the whole thing is still super sloppy and soft. While nothing torques around under decel, I can feel the transmission "floating" when I shift and hit bumps.
 
Is the vibration just in one gear or in any gear at 25 under load? Could be the trans mount... didn’t see pictures of yours, but if the trans mount is cantilevered out you can get into weird speed based load harmonics.
 
Back
Top