oil leak/oil trap problem

I have had a major oil leak on my b23 for the longest time and finally got around to changing the seals and gasket on the front of the engine. Is it best to press the new seals on the lower cover while it is off of the engine or do it after it is back on so as not to risk damaging the seals sliding them over the crank and auxiliary shafts, or does it matter which way it is done? I think it would be easier to get the seals pressed in the cover nice and straight when the cover is off of the engine.

I noticed this engine is missing the flame trap and pcv hoses on the oil separator so there is no positive pressure that I can see to help the combustion gases escape the engine: Could this be contributing to my massive oil leak problem? I've read the post about it being an option to just let the crankcase vent to the atmosphere, but it seems like it would work better if there was some vacuum there to help pull the gases out and thus help prevent the build-up of pressure in the crankcase.

Another concern I have is whether the tube going down into the engine is plugged up (or even there at all). Is it possible to stick a wire down in the hole to make sure this is clear? Which of the two holes is the tube supposed to be located in (front or back)?

Thanks for any help.

Hey, so

1. I prefer to seat the new seals with the cover plate off, simply because it is much easier to do it on the workbench than in situ, and I think the risk of damaging the seal is negligible provided you exercise basic care, whereas the risk of seating it crooked is higher when doing it with the cover plate installed.

2. Restore the flame trap and associated hoses to factory spec - should only set you back a few dollars. Provided though the hoses that are there are not clogged, and that the oil separator is not clogged, you won't get a buildup of crankcase pressure. I would remove the oil separator and put some carby cleaner in it and give it a shake. Repeat a few times - that should dislodge all the carbon - then rinse it out thoroughly with hot water. Or you could just buy a new oil separator (NB: if your oil separator is made of metal, don't throw it away IMO, it's better than the plastic ones)

3. The tube going down to the engine. Firstly, do not remove this tube. You will not be able to get it back in easily unless you pull the oil pan off. The fact that you're asking which hole it goes in has me worried you might have done it already. If you look at the two holes, you'll see it can't possibly fit down the rear one, because the drive gear for the oil pump is in the way. Odds are the hose is not blocked, but if you are sceptical, drain the oil, leave the bolt out, put a funnel onto the hole, and pour oil in. If it flows through easily, you know the tube isn't blocked.

Thanks. That sounds like good advice. No, I haven't taken the tube out of the engine - I read the instructions in the service manual which says to make sure not to do this.

I'll just order the missing parts from IPD to get everything hooked up again. Now my concern is that the plastic tube on the air intake that the large PVC hose plugs is broken off, so I'm going to need to find another tube I can epoxy onto the intake (or find another intake duct).

Volvo really cheapened these cars up by using so much breakable plastic in the 1980's. They even started using plastic tank radiators. It's a shame because these were really solidly built cars up until then (still they were probably more solid than anything built today).

vegiguy said:

Volvo really cheapened these cars up by using so much breakable plastic in the 1980's. They even started using plastic tank radiators. It's a shame because these were really solidly built cars up until then (still they were probably more solid than anything built today).

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Those plastic parts aren't so bad. The interior trim plastics are way worse. You have to keep in mind these are all service items and for many of them you're getting 20+ years of life out of them. I mean I have a 240 with a radiator that is nearly 30 years old, never repaired, doesn't leak. And I remember my parents old V40 blew its radiator every 3-4 years.

Anyway, if the intake hose is brittle, yes, you should replace it. You can buy a new one - I believe this is the one you are after. It will probably last you 20+ years.

Get the flame trap re-locater kit from IPD too. Makes future service way easier. Also definitely replace the separator if plastic. They can get really full of hard deposits and difficult to clean completely.

What year, model, and engine?

johfraser said:

Get the flame trap re-locater kit from IPD too. Makes future service way easier. Also definitely replace the separator if plastic. They can get really full of hard deposits and difficult to clean completely.

What year, model, and engine?

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I'll look into replacing that. You're right - it seems like you can clean those PCV devices over and over and still have junk coming out of them.

The car is a 1983 242 with a b23F that was converted to a b23A (carb engine) that I want to convert back to fuel injection with a Megaquirt II I built from a kit.

You could also replace the separator with a flat plate and 90 deg hose barb. Run it to a remote oil catch can style.