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R32rennsport's Amazon Thread

Looks good! Glad you did the vent windows, keep that water out of your door and the cabin!

Seeing your car really makes me want to have another Amazon.

What's your altitude ? 45's seems like a lot of carbs for a B18 or B20.

Altitude is nearly sea level, though I do see 1200 feet on my daily commute over the coastal mountain range.

Engine is currently a 2130cc big bore with 9 to 1 compression and KG10 camshaft. The 45s are currently choked down to a 34mm venturi and jetting as lean as I can safely set it, it runs great but you can tell it wants more BOOM. Plans this year are as alluded to, a camshaft change, bump in the compression to 10 to 1 and also a lightened flywheel.
 
Doing my part to stimulate the economy. Lot's of projects planned this year. Going to be pulling the head for a shave, swapping cam and pulling the trans out to swap flywheels. Looking to bump compression up a point to a solid 10:1. I'm also changing up my rolling stock to something a little more unique. Stay tuned...





 
Glad to see the top end kit boxes are still firmly covered in packing tape lol

Oh, and that you had to sharpie over where the box said 'K'. Sorry, couldn't find the original R cam box until after I'd cleaned out the garage.
 
Glad to see the top end kit boxes are still firmly covered in packing tape lol

Oh, and that you had to sharpie over where the box said 'K'. Sorry, couldn't find the original R cam box until after I'd cleaned out the garage.

It's all good, excellent packing and shipping work! Can't wait to get a start on these projects!
 
love me some knock offs.

Parking lot reactions are the best when you're out for a test drive and stop to swing a lead hammer at your shiny new wheels.
 

better be OEM volvo ones

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That wheel look great on there, how wide is that sucker?

I'm still on the fence if I'm going to follow through with this wheel project, they are becoming quite a chore and $$$ to do it right with absolutely no performance benefits over the old wheels, really just bragging rights?

They are nearly the same size at 7.5 inches and the same weight as the Torque Thrust at 18lbs but you end up adding roughly 6 more pounds with the adapter and knock offs. The issue is the b/s is 3.5 inches, needs to be closer to 4 especially with the additional thickness of the adapter. This will require machining the (super thick) rear pads of the wheels.
 
They look great! I would be a little concerned with taking material off the wheel at the pin drive thickness, but I guess you'd just need to be sure that there's enough threads on the adapters and nuts to allow it. Might have to turn down the adapters the same amount as you take off the wheel.

I had a guy ask me to swap some knock off wheels on an Austin Healey because he wanted the offset of some Borrani wire wheels. Turns out that the spline was right, but thickness at the bore was less, and his nuts bottomed out before squeezing the wheels into place. Ended up chucking a spare set of hub adapters in the lathe and taking off 6mm to get decent center lock engagement.

Maybe an EPAS and steering rack would solve steering feel, and bumpsteer stresses, but that seems like a more difficult task than milling the wheel to correct offset issues.

That said, I'm running a 17x9.5 et:+5 and with camber set a little more negative, and caster at -6.5* ish, it self centers well, and is pretty easy to handle at speed with minimal wandering/bump steer. At least with the stock steering wheel, but with the little 13.5" grant that I have on there, its a little harder on the forearms than I'd like, but it is doable.
 
They look great! I would be a little concerned with taking material off the wheel at the pin drive thickness, but I guess you'd just need to be sure that there's enough threads on the adapters and nuts to allow it. Might have to turn down the adapters the same amount as you take off the wheel.

I had a guy ask me to swap some knock off wheels on an Austin Healey because he wanted the offset of some Borrani wire wheels. Turns out that the spline was right, but thickness at the bore was less, and his nuts bottomed out before squeezing the wheels into place. Ended up chucking a spare set of hub adapters in the lathe and taking off 6mm to get decent center lock engagement.

Maybe an EPAS and steering rack would solve steering feel, and bumpsteer stresses, but that seems like a more difficult task than milling the wheel to correct offset issues.

That said, I'm running a 17x9.5 et:+5 and with camber set a little more negative, and caster at -6.5* ish, it self centers well, and is pretty easy to handle at speed with minimal wandering/bump steer. At least with the stock steering wheel, but with the little 13.5" grant that I have on there, its a little harder on the forearms than I'd like, but it is doable.

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I've taken a million measurements and spoken directly with the manufacturer. These wheels are designed for a variety of reproduction car applications so they purposefully designed the mounting pads on the thick side to be machined up to 1/2 inch depending on application.

In my opinion anything wider then 7 inches, especially at the front of the car, is excessive without complete steering and suspension geometry redesign. At 7.5 inches I'm really pushing the balance of looks over performance which is not my motivation. Go drive your favorite road, take off your 9.5 wheels and bolt on a set of even 6 inch wheels and you'll probably ask yourself if you really want to bolt the old set back on. The idea here is to stay as far inside the fenders as possible to retain proper handling characteristics, you really start changing vehicle dynamics by changing a number of alignment planes and adding leverage to both springs and wheel bearings the further past center (0 offset) you go.

The new brake disc and brake drum toolings from VP are much stronger and in my opinion can also take up to 5-8mm off the hats by milling due to their one piece design over the old two piece pressed hubs which was another way to attack the issue as well.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I've taken a million measurements and spoken directly with the manufacturer. These wheels are designed for a variety of reproduction car applications so they purposefully designed the mounting pads on the thick side to be machined up to 1/2 inch depending on application.

In my opinion anything wider then 7 inches, especially at the front of the car, is excessive without complete steering and suspension geometry redesign. At 7.5 inches I'm really pushing the balance of looks over performance which is not my motivation. Go drive your favorite road, take off your 9.5 wheels and bolt on a set of even 6 inch wheels and you'll probably ask yourself if you really want to bolt the old set back on. The idea here is to stay as far inside the fenders as possible to retain proper handling characteristics, you really start changing vehicle dynamics by changing a number of alignment planes and adding leverage to both springs and wheel bearings the further past center (0 offset) you go.

The new brake disc and brake drum toolings from VP are much stronger and in my opinion can also take up to 5-8mm off the hats by milling due to their one piece design over the old two piece pressed hubs which was another way to attack the issue as well.

I dont disagree at all. My setup is way too wide for anything but looks, when I intend to drive it hard, I've got a set of 15x7.5 et25 with a nice 225x55 R compound tire, but its still heavy on the autocross course, and a little too many turns lock>lock. Winter is coming soon, so the car will be back in the garage for some new things. Most likely to include some weight and structure changes up front. Plus, I just found myself a nice prius carcass to dismember and sweet quick ratio rack. :oogle:
 
More fitting and measuring. This is definitely not a straight forward bolt on, pretty much fighting me every step of the way. Hope it looks as good as I envisioned it when it's all done.

 
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