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mega or micro squirt???

MadMax244

New member
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Location
phoenix az
Ok question here I want to do either with map and coil packs on a 245 that has a b23ft in it that came from an lh2.4 car and I'm not sure which one would be better mega or micro?

Tia
 
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MS2 v3.0 board Get an extra BIP373 for wasted spark ignition, crank trigger, and a JBperf P&H board. Dont forget a boost control kit and solenoid.
 
microsquirt has a better conditioning circuit if you're going to use the vr setup, it's smaller, has a better connector on it, and you don't have to assemble it. Use newer bosch high-z injectors and smart coils.
 
So microsquirt is better? Also some part numbers for coil packs map sensor and high z injectors would be wonderful and thanks
 
So microsquirt is better? Also some part numbers for coil packs map sensor and high z injectors would be wonderful and thanks

that's subjective, and depends on what you're trying to do with it. Kenny outlined the benefits well.

I'm using lsx d514a coils, GM map sensor that DIY sells, and Injector Dynamics ID1000s.
 
for some things yes. based on what you've listed micro would be the better bet.

coils and injectors are relative to your goals and budget.
 
Only things I can come up with are dumb coil drivers (mostly just being able to not have them externally mounted), packaged with internal map sensor, not having to have add-ons in a separate enclosure I.E launch, nitrous, boost control, ect
 
Can you give us an example of where mega would be the better choice? thanks

coil on plug with sequential injection comes to mind, anything requiring more IO than the uS has apportioned to its connector, that sort of thing.
 
Why in the world would you saddle yourself with an expensive sensor buried in a horribly inaccessible place when there are so many better options?
I am confuse.

About the only reason is that it costs $0.00 since it's already right there.
 
yes you can use the stock sensor.

some people have trouble with them but remember these cars are old and the stock sensor may already be bad or going out. for replacement sensors there are plenty between $40-$80 that fit and work fine.

60-2 is great use it with wasted spark coils. and as long as you have a stock flywheel or flexplate it will work I know some people sell flywheels that don't work because the holes are wrong.

check diy autotune's website you can do a race coil with a built in ignitior to the distributor. or a 4 tower wasted spark coil. or even coil on plug but these will need some kind of bracket to keep them on the motor.
 
For rpm sensor I can use the stock lh2.4 crank speed sensor?

yep.

Why in the world would you saddle yourself with an expensive sensor buried in a horribly inaccessible place when there are so many better options?
I am confuse.

I'm curious how much of a broke ass you'd have to be to classify a $40 sensor as expensive (or $65 if you buy the blue box), then I'm curious about non-accessibility.. a 10mm on two extensions with maybe a wobble joint. To put that another way, if I can cram my big ol ham fists down there to replace it, I doubt anyone else is really struggling, but here's a trick if you are.. put the bolt in the 10mm socket ahead of time with a piece of plastic over the top to hold it in place while you guide it down in there. Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes start to finish.

It's there, it requires no additional modifications, works well within the given parameters... so.. what would you rather have that costs less than $65 and works better?
 
yep.



I'm curious how much of a broke ass you'd have to be to classify a $40 sensor as expensive (or $65 if you buy the blue box), then I'm curious about non-accessibility.. a 10mm on two extensions with maybe a wobble joint. To put that another way, if I can cram my big ol ham fists down there to replace it, I doubt anyone else is really struggling, but here's a trick if you are.. put the bolt in the 10mm socket ahead of time with a piece of plastic over the top to hold it in place while you guide it down in there. Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes start to finish.

It's there, it requires no additional modifications, works well within the given parameters... so.. what would you rather have that costs less than $65 and works better?

Something fawking accessible that the BLUE OVAL (that shall not be named here) that welds on the front and makes the sensor easily accessible, for fawks sakes. Eurrapeon bitchin hall sensor crank pulley way out front accessible. Fawks sakes its nto difficult.
Its on the other 2.3L turbo engine that went on to WIN the WRC or some chit like that.

For that 100k change interval of course.
 
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