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EV turbobrick - the turbobrick way?

I realized that if I still had my VW Manx [style] dune buggy, that this motor and controller would be in my garage already. I'd think the Manx would be a near perfect candidate for this setup -- light weight, hang the motor off a simple transaxle adapter plate in place of the engine, replace the front gas tank with a battery pack, and it already has manual steering, fat rear tires, no heat and no A/C. As Summertime toy car, 40 mile range would be good enough, and I guess I could always cart around a gas generator if I didn't know how long/far I'd be playing in the mountains.


How does the sustained power of a used Warp 9 compare to an original NA redblock? Enough for a run-of-the-mill DD?
 
I realized that if I still had my VW Manx [style] dune buggy, that this motor and controller would be in my garage already. I'd think the Manx would be a near perfect candidate for this setup -- light weight, hang the motor off a simple transaxle adapter plate in place of the engine, replace the front gas tank with a battery pack, and it already has manual steering, fat rear tires, no heat and no A/C. As Summertime toy car, 40 mile range would be good enough, and I guess I could always cart around a gas generator if I didn't know how long/far I'd be playing in the mountains.


How does the sustained power of a used Warp 9 compare to an original NA redblock? Enough for a run-of-the-mill DD?

The Warp 9 will feel like a built big turbo redblock from a dig. If you are doing 50+ and floor it, it won't be as impressive, but it will still pull good.

Guy Dudebro explains: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqVzMysSgpM&ab_channel=BottsFineVids
 
I realized that if I still had my VW Manx [style] dune buggy, that this motor and controller would be in my garage already. I'd think the Manx would be a near perfect candidate for this setup -- light weight, hang the motor off a simple transaxle adapter plate in place of the engine, replace the front gas tank with a battery pack, and it already has manual steering, fat rear tires, no heat and no A/C. As Summertime toy car, 40 mile range would be good enough, and I guess I could always cart around a gas generator if I didn't know how long/far I'd be playing in the mountains.


How does the sustained power of a used Warp 9 compare to an original NA redblock? Enough for a run-of-the-mill DD?

Quick from a stand still as HiSPL says. Where it peaks is going to depend on two things. Gearbox and controller voltage and current output.

Like culberro points out, this would be the blow through or suck through carb and turbo setup of the ev world. Known to put down some power, scary to look at, not the most tunable, and not exactly reliable or maintenance free.

But, if you don?t mind long-ish charge times, grab 2-3 Prius hybrid packs for cheap, run them parallel and rock on. Shouldn?t be too difficult to get you that 40 mile range. Could be quick to 60 depending on gearbox. The ev west 2 speed is actually a pretty solid unit. Great thing with that gearbox, if you ever decide you want to throw more money at it, we have a unit that will bolt directly to that transmission, has its own controller/inverter stuck on the top making it a small form factor high output motor. Just need to deal with the pack side of things.
 
I've actually been starting to consider saving up to get a evshop conversion kit (88kw hyper9 120v) along with 8 phev packs like these:
https://evshop.eu/en/batteries/150-mitsubishi-outlander-phev-battery-module.html

One thing still confuses me however, these packs are listed to be 2.4kw, which would be their total voltage*capacity in ah. However, the minimum to max charge range would be around 22v * 40ah = 0.88kw.

I read that 1kw will net about 5km's (I'd be converting a Volvo 340), so then 8 packs would get me a disappointing 40km range. Or is that range specified in total capacity? I haven't really found a conclusive answere elsewhere
 
I've actually been starting to consider saving up to get a evshop conversion kit (88kw hyper9 120v) along with 8 phev packs like these:
https://evshop.eu/en/batteries/150-mitsubishi-outlander-phev-battery-module.html

One thing still confuses me however, these packs are listed to be 2.4kw, which would be their total voltage*capacity in ah. However, the minimum to max charge range would be around 22v * 40ah = 0.88kw.

I read that 1kw will net about 5km's (I'd be converting a Volvo 340), so then 8 packs would get me a disappointing 40km range. Or is that range specified in total capacity? I haven't really found a conclusive answere elsewhere

The Ah rating should take into account the usable voltage range of the battery, so no need to look at the minimum voltage and the Ah rating. It's a little confusing at first, but it starts to make sense as it's a way to standardize the usable energy within a battery.

Without having the cell spec sheet, I don't know if that rating is at 80%DOD or 100%DOD. But it's probably safe to assume that it's 80% @20?C.
 
Yes I already noticed their prices are high, a used outlander phev pack will run 2250€, with 8 packs and some other bits inside. I guess they assume people that just want plug and play and are willing to pay for ease.

Thanks culberro, that makes a lot more sense to me. I was already wondering how else one could get anywhere with a 80kw total capacity pack on a Tesla.

Possibly the oem could provide a DoD value I'd trust. Most batteries only receive 80% of their maximum charge, this is due to pack degradation right?
 
Kind of. Their capacity reduces over time. They will still charge to the same “full” voltage, but will decrease in voltage with use faster.
 
Cool, so basically you charge it to full, and leave some margin at the bottom to prevent overdepletion as it degrades. That makes sense:)

As for batteries, used 18650's would possibly also be a good option given their cheap if you don't value the spent time, or dare rely on cells tested by someone else. 100pcs come in at 125-150eu, so estimating a rough 3.7V*2.7Ah = 10W for each of those, you could get around 10kw for with the enclosure etc 1500eu. The only downside is figuring out how to fuse each cell individually and building a cooling setup.
 
I realized that if I still had my VW Manx [style] dune buggy, that this motor and controller would be in my garage already. I'd think the Manx would be a near perfect candidate for this setup -- light weight, hang the motor off a simple transaxle adapter plate in place of the engine, replace the front gas tank with a battery pack, and it already has manual steering, fat rear tires, no heat and no A/C. As Summertime toy car, 40 mile range would be good enough, and I guess I could always cart around a gas generator if I didn't know how long/far I'd be playing in the mountains.


How does the sustained power of a used Warp 9 compare to an original NA redblock? Enough for a run-of-the-mill DD?

Swindon had/has an offering if you have $15k

https://paultan.org/2019/10/21/swindon-powertrain-introduces-crate-electric-motor/
 
Looks like it’s just some custom CV shafts and a mounting system away from fitting into an IRS car. You might have to cut up the trunk floor a bit , but that’s not too much work :)

Those are really cheap for what you’re getting!
 
The Netgain Hyper 9 is proving to be a decent little motor for the price, and would work well for a 240 run around EV. It's 127hp peak, which should be adequate. Would be really fun with a 2-3spd transmission, which would help out for highway range. Maybe I'll design some m46/47 or AW adapters...

$5k for the motor and controller kit.

https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/hyper-9-is-integrated-system.html
 
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